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Discussion Starter #1
I've seen a number of people discuss using Tide detergent as the cleaning agent in the first coolant flush before the citric acid flush. But no details on what kind of Tide or how much- regular or HE, capful/cupful, etc. I also have some Simple Green concentrate on hand. Any help here would be greatly appreciated.
 

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2008 AMG CLK63 Conv., 2012 R350 4-Matic, Wife's 2015 C300 sedan
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1 scoop per load of laundry, separate whites and coloreds, medium temperature, regular rinse, light spin.
 

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Outstanding Contributor , Bob's Your Uncle!
-----'83 280 SL----- 5 speed....The PIG
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Tide powder. I eyeballed it. Who cares how much? You'll be rinsing it out, anyways. It's purpose is to remove any oil residue build up prior to the citric flush.
 

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1984 380SL
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I take it back, the last time I did a flush was on a similar generation 300D. I used this stuff:
2613821


No suds and was easy to flush out. I let the car idle for a few minutes with the defrost button on.
 

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'80 450SLC Afro RHD Ikonengold
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Dishwasher liquid.... the plot thickens.
Worth comparing pros and cons with laundry detergent.

Does a quick cycle for synthetics suffice or must it be a cotton 90°C with prewash?
Leave it soak over night whilst hot?
 

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CH4S Admin , Outstanding Contributor
1985 500SEC, 1991 190E 2.6.
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Dish washing machine gel. No foam built up.
Rudiger
Ja, das ist richtig, Exactly

If you want to go the extra step, after de oiling with with detergent gel, throughout flush, and follow up with a citric acid flush to get rid of calcium etc deposits and scale.
I would recommend to install at minimum a new thermostat and replace questionable hoses.. Caution: If your water pump is not 100%, the citric acid flush could be the kiss of death....

I have new hoses, quality clamps, correct temperature thermostat, pressure cap, Nissens radiator, drain plug, water pump, dish detergent and citric acid (bought online, Mercedes is $$) standing, by. Still looking for a pressure cap with water inlet / hose nipple.

Replaced the water temp and electric fans sensors a few month ago.

For the Mercedes Benz manual flushing procedure
If MBUSA no longer hosts the R107 manual, go to the W126 stickies, click 'continue' until 560 (M107 engine). Adobe needs to be enabled for the site https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12253/program/matrix.htm
Cheers
 

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1973 450 SL
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RD,

When I did this, I removed the thermostat. It caused a seal problem in the thermostat housing. The viscofan blew leaking detergent solution and later, citric acid solution all over my engine bay. I made a note for next time . . . remove the thermostat and punch out the operative element leaving only the frame and seal. Install that thermostat frame during the cleaning operation, replace with a new thermostat when everything is clean prior to refilling with coolant.

Another option is to accept the leak and consider removal of the viscofan during the cleaning operation. A leak will create air pockets in the cooling system which may have undesirable consequences to the cleaning process.

My .02
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the replies and help. I'd like to meet the diabolical German that designed the "optimal" location for the left-side engine block coolant drain. He must have been having a bad day. I rounded out the hex bolt after getting it seated back in and now will order a set of new drain bolts before the final drain (just distilled H2O in there now) before adding G48. Guess I'll spend the next couple days pressure-washing my garage floor while I wait.
 

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I've seen a number of people discuss using Tide detergent as the cleaning agent in the first coolant flush before the citric acid flush. But no details on what kind of Tide or how much- regular or HE, capful/cupful, etc. I also have some Simple Green concentrate on hand. Any help here would be greatly appreciated.
Why on earth would you want to put a detergent in your valuable engine, buy the proper stuff from an auto parts store (its not that expensive) that is at least designed for the purpose of cleaning the system, I do not know for sure but I would imagine detergent has chemicals and maybe salt that would be harmful to and engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Why on earth would you want to put a detergent in your valuable engine, buy the proper stuff from an auto parts store (its not that expensive) that is at least designed for the purpose of cleaning the system, I do not know for sure but I would imagine detergent has chemicals and maybe salt that would be harmful to and engine.
I ultimately opted for the Liqui Moly radiator cleaner instead of the clothes detergent. Stupid me, I also installed a brand new pearly white expansion tank after the first drain. The radiator flush resulted in an oily residue ring inside the tank which will be a pain to try to remove.
 

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I ultimately opted for the Liqui Moly radiator cleaner instead of the clothes detergent. Stupid me, I also installed a brand new pearly white expansion tank after the first drain. The radiator flush resulted in an oily residue ring inside the tank which will be a pain to try to remove.
Can't say I have used Luqui Moly , but I will certainly avoid it now, I have used the Prestone Flush and had no problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Can't say I have used Luqui Moly , but I will certainly avoid it now, I have used the Prestone Flush and had no problems.
I think it's a good thing that the oil deposit showed up as it means it is no longer in my radiator after the drain. It's just what accumulated at the water line in the expansion tank that didn't get removed.
 

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European 1974 350SLC ,'78 300CD& '80 300CD sold , '81 240D SWMBO's Car '84 300CD & Euro
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12.17.19

I use SHOUT non sudsing soap, a cup full, not more than 4 ounces in distelled water after draining out the old coolant .
I drive the car at least 30 minutes with the heater on full so the heater matrix gets properly flushed out too .

Drain, use 6 point sockets on the block drains and never have any problems .

Mind the little sealing ring doesn't get lost when you remove the block drain plug .

Like most jobs this is simple if tedious ~ rush it and you'll be unhappy with the results .

I've saved many badly clogged radiators by driving it a few days (older high mileage vehicles) and have never lost a water pump nor thermostat yet .

If you're planning to cheap out and use a $5 Chinese thermostat, don't ~ the original ones are well made and there's often slight corrosion at the housing that will cause leaks once you open it up .

Easy to rectify, just plane the corroded surface but most DIY'ers don't want / have the skills to go that far .

Keep it simple, flush , test drive (heater ON) until the distilled water runs clear then drain and refill with the proper yellow G5 coolant mixed 60/40 .
 

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Outstanding Contributor , Bob's Your Uncle!
-----'83 280 SL----- 5 speed....The PIG
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Why on earth would you want to put a detergent in your valuable engine, buy the proper stuff from an auto parts store (its not that expensive) that is at least designed for the purpose of cleaning the system, I do not know for sure but I would imagine detergent has chemicals and maybe salt that would be harmful to and engine.
Because it suits the purpose and does the job?

Cleans your delicate fabrics...pretty sure it won't damage an engine.
 

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1984 380SL
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Caution: If your water pump is not 100%, the citric acid flush could be the kiss of death....
Can attest to this, I had a water pump that became incontinent after a citric acid flush on an older Benz I owned.

I hesitant to do one on my 380SL now since I've become super lazy on repairs as of late. I don't want to replace my water pump right now 😆
 

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European 1974 350SLC ,'78 300CD& '80 300CD sold , '81 240D SWMBO's Car '84 300CD & Euro
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Well yes Tide isn't too harsh but it has suds and I had one helluva time getting all the suds out after I once used sudsing detergent....
 
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