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1988 560SL Currently, 1972 350SL (RIP)
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403 Posts
Yesterday I removed the alternator, power steering pump and fan getting ready to finally do the guides, chain, sprockets and tensioner as well as oilers. Wish me luck, so far so good and I’m following Panzer’s youtube video so I feel I’m in good hands. Taking it nice and slow but if anyone has any advice that you wish you knew when you did it even after reading the threads and watching videos let me know.
 

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1988 560SL Currently, 1972 350SL (RIP)
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403 Posts
Well three of the 4 6mm hex bolts holding the alternator bracket on are stripped. I have tried PB blaster, heat and I bought a 7mm and tried to hammer it in, all came up short. Unless anyone has ideas I’ll be spending the rest of the afternoon with my drill and then tomorrow with my tapping set.

I’m sure even that will go wrong, ugh. It was going so well until these damn 6mm bolts. I might try and cut the heads off with my dremel and extract the studs in the hopes of saving the threads but at this point I’m almost leaning towards the nuclear option and just drill it out
 

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1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
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8,057 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1,103 ·
Those Allen Head bolts are a PITA.
If you can get something like a Dremel tool in there to cut a slot across the head, try putting a Screwdriver on the edge of the slot such that when you strike the head of the screwdriver with a hammer it will cause the Allen Bolt to turn CCW to loosen.
 

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1988 560SL Currently, 1972 350SL (RIP)
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403 Posts
that’s a great idea, going to try that cause these are super long bolts and i have no faith in my drill
bit holding out for 3 of these damn things and it keeps the threads in tact
 

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1988 560SL Currently, 1972 350SL (RIP)
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403 Posts
No dice with anything. I’m at the end of the road here. Broke my drill bit, tried the dremel trick and banged on that thing hard at least 50 times and isn’t budging. I’m going to have to just have a shop with better tools, better drills, more skills do this job. Sucks, I’m going to have to put everything back and then pay probably $1000 or more for someone to do the job. I thought about just having them drill the holes out but paying for a tow both ways plus paying for that job which no garage wants to do anyways is probably close to the same cost and then I have to do the job myself.

If anyone has any ideas, I mean I can’t imagine anything else but I’d be interested to hear what you’d do if you were in my situation. Thought about just doing the job minus the two guides but I’m not sure if that makes sense also. Would a normal mercedes shop even do this or where would I have to take it?
 

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1987 560SL (L.Tonk) [92,700 miles]
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523 Posts
I stripped one alternator bracket bolt but managed to get it out with a cold chisel and hammer. It took a while. For the others in used PB blaster and heat, then used an electric hammer to jam the bit into place and shock it. One friend later recommended using a dremel to flatten the sides and use a crescent wrench but I’ve never tried it myself. I wish I had replaced every bolt with a hex head in retrospect.
 

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1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
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8,057 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1,107 ·
I can feel your pain with those Allen Head Bolts.
I fubared them on Steering Couplers and a Distributor.
@tonk560 mentioned heat - that helped me loosen them on the Steering Couplers where they had used Lock Tite. Maybe your bolts used Lock Tite and you need heat to melt the glue?
Can you safely get in a butane torch on the head of the bolt?
 

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1988 560SL Currently, 1972 350SL (RIP)
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403 Posts
I did use heat, out quite a bit of heat into the bolts and that’s when they stripped out. Thought for sure that was going to do it. I e had some time to think and I’m just going to replace the tensioner, driver side guides, chain and sprockets and save the last two guides for an expensive garage trip in the next month or so. I did all this work and I do have a good amount of chain slop so fixing the chain and a few other things and leaving two grenades has to be better than just putting everything back and should reduce my shop bill at least slightly.

Can anyone who used to own a shop attest to that? If I brought you in a full chain, sprocket tensioner and guide job and said hey there’s 3 bolts I need drilled out and retapped vs bringing in my car and saying I just need the two passenger top guides changed and 3 bolts drilled and tapped would that be a much smaller bill, only slightly or the same or close to the same? Either way my pride will be a little less bruised if I do most of the job and at this point I need a little boost in that area.
 

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1988 560SL Currently, 1972 350SL (RIP)
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403 Posts
Unfortunately I’d have to get it towed as where it sits now is in a shared garage that allows me to do some light work (i’m probably way overstepping boundaries even doing this job already) and I don’t have a good enough power source for a welder even if I decided to just risk it.

I mean I guess that’s not a bad idea, as i’m typing this I’m thinking finish the job minus the two guides and put everything back and then drive the car to a shop that can weld something to the mangled bolts allowing me to use more heat and a socket to get them off and then it’s only the alternator/cruise control and passenger valve cover that would need to come off and probably the fan but that’s all pretty easy. Thanks for sparking this idea, giving me a little ray of hope I might be able to get away with doing it all myself besides the weld job which I’d have to pay someone to do as I don’t have any friends with a welder either. My friends all wouldn’t know the difference between a spanner and a crescent wrench so I have no favors I could ask there ;)
 

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1987 560SL
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60 Posts
Happy to offer the suggestion. Not sure how far dismantled your car is that it's not now possible to drive it to a welder before you undertake all the work.
Otherwise is there an option for a mobile welding mechanic coming to you ?
 

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1974 450SL (always needs something!) new djet engine 1991; 1961 Besasie X-3 (being restored)
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1,429 Posts
Put in a new air filter. What a change for the better!
 

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Mr. Benz: '82 240D Fanta: '77 450SLC Stella: '74 450SL Frank: '76 450SLC Too many others to list
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21 Posts
Polished the old 70's Nardi and put it back on the orange SLC.
2695505
 

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Premium Member
1988 560SL, TRQ
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95 Posts
Yesterday and today. 12 hours of detailing. Here is what I used:

Simply Green
Isopropyl Alchohol
Meguair's Carpet Cleaner
Eastwood Rust Encapsulator
OdoBan
Rustoleum Rust Dissolver
PB Blaster Penetrating Oil
PB Blaster Silicone Lube
Forever Black
Dawn
Mother's Clay Bar Kit
Meguair's Car Wash
220 Grit Sand Paper
Mother's Chrome Polish
Torque Detail Ceramic Shine
Windex
Rain X Glass Repellant
303 Protectorant
Armour All
Griots Correcting Cream
Chemical Guys Leather Detailer
23 Microfiber Towels
IMG_0738.jpg
IMG_0739.jpg
IMG_0740.jpg
 

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1978 450 SLC 5.0 #0096
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13 Posts
Yesterday, I took the door cards off to get started on a couple of items on the list. The driver's side door pull has been unattached from one spot. Haven't fixed that yet, but should be easy to remedy.

What took up the most time was diagnosing a problem with the passenger door not opening from the outside. The SLC has been like this since I bought it, and it's one of those items that drives me bonkers having to open the door from the inside.

After pulling the door card and getting familiar with the handle and latch operations, I noticed through the peep hole that the handle was not engaging the latch. After some persuasion, I got the two lined up and in sync with each other. Of course, it was not enough to get the latch mechanism to operate from the "door closed" position when pulling on the handle. It could not be that simple of a fix.

I then pulled the latch mechanism to inspect it to make sure it was working correctly. All good there, so I put it back in. I went through a few series of testing the latch, the handle, and the door lock to see what I was missing. At one point, the latch opened from the "door closed" position with the door handle being pulled. I still could not tell why and kept going through the tests.

I finally figured out that the position of the latch with the door being in the "unlocked" position was not being pushed far enough, and an arm within the latch would not engage correctly. I took the latch mechanism back out, attempted to bend that arm just a pinch, straightened what looked like a very slight bend in another part of the latch, reinstalled it, and am now able to open the passenger door from the outside.

A lot of drama for making such a small tolerance adjustment. 😉
 

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1985 380SL
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89 Posts
Finally got around to replacing the grille. The original one had an outer vane missing on the driver side, and it bugged the heck out of me. Some of you have said you painted the grille before installing, but I left mine just as it came. I really like the look of the black compared to the faded gray on the old one. I also took the opportunity to polish all the trim.


37B41955-D5D0-4C4E-9D08-A6217AAFB058.jpeg
 

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2012 CLS 550,1977 450 SL, 1980 450 SL, 2016GLE AMG
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578 Posts
Unfortunately I’d have to get it towed as where it sits now is in a shared garage that allows me to do some light work (i’m probably way overstepping boundaries even doing this job already) and I don’t have a good enough power source for a welder even if I decided to just risk it.

I mean I guess that’s not a bad idea, as i’m typing this I’m thinking finish the job minus the two guides and put everything back and then drive the car to a shop that can weld something to the mangled bolts allowing me to use more heat and a socket to get them off and then it’s only the alternator/cruise control and passenger valve cover that would need to come off and probably the fan but that’s all pretty easy. Thanks for sparking this idea, giving me a little ray of hope I might be able to get away with doing it all myself besides the weld job which I’d have to pay someone to do as I don’t have any friends with a welder either. My friends all wouldn’t know the difference between a spanner and a crescent wrench so I have no favors I could ask there ;)
Hopefully you tenacity will hold on till the job gets done. I was told to heat the head of a frozen bolt till it turns yellow the hammer it with a air chisel and some penetrating oil . If all else fails weld a nut to it. penetrating oil takes time to get into the threads mostly over night and hammering the sh.. out of it helps by vibrating the threads between heat and penetrating oil and a air chisel it will come out. PS the straps are in a fed ex storage box near you.
 
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1988 560SL Currently, 1972 350SL (RIP)
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403 Posts
This was yesterday and Sunday but I finished the sway bar bushings job and that tightened up my whole car, feels great! Also, with the help of my wife, installed the new hood insulation pad. It was a bit of a fiasco and a few tense moments between us both but we managed to end up getting it perfect. Probably should have practiced a bit more but hey it worked out. I drove it in the heat today and pushed her hard and when I got home touched the hood and it was cool to the touch even after all that!
 
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