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1984 380SL
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74 Posts
Short drive down the road today. Not a big deal but the car hasn’t moved more than 1 ft over the last 4 years. Brakes are next and whatever is leaking gas by the filter/exhaust. Nobody should be surprised to know she ran like normal... as if not parked for so long.
In the last three days, emptied the coolant both through the radiator and the two hexbolts on the block, flushed 3 times just with water and finally filled with new coolant.
The brake fluid is next.
 

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73 450sl with SBC motor and trans
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63 Posts
Today I drained the coolant, oil and transmission fluid from the radiator to get ready for the replacement aluminum I ordered that is out for delivery today.
 

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1985 380sl
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200 Posts
Mrs. Joser drove the car yesterday, and today I noticed it sounded a bit rumbly. Then I saw this. Should I say anything?
2643439
 

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They breed in my driveway.
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1,084 Posts
I walked past the 107 today.
TWICE.
 
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1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
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7,002 Posts
Discussion Starter #425

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Registered
1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
Joined
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7,002 Posts
Discussion Starter #426
Gathering up parts and information to replace the Accumulator.
Have ordered and received both an Accumulator and a Fuel Filter.
Looked through the EPC for the part numbers for the hoses - especially the hose that I will need to clamp to keep the fuel from spilling out. Want to have it on hand in case I damage the hose by clamping.
BUT, cannot find the hose part numbers for the 1983 380SL :-(
Rats. Would it be the same for other model SL's?
My memory is failing but I did purchase a section of hose a few years ago from a fellow 380SL member - something like a 42mm piece of hose and I'll have to locate it in all my crap.
Still need to make a trip to Harbor Freight for some hose clamps.
AND I have 3/4 tank of fuel so I need to drive "Angel" some before I start ... but no Hot Restarts are allowed.
 

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1985 380 SL
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131 Posts
Gathering up parts and information to replace the Accumulator.
Have ordered and received both an Accumulator and a Fuel Filter.
Looked through the EPC for the part numbers for the hoses - especially the hose that I will need to clamp to keep the fuel from spilling out. Want to have it on hand in case I damage the hose by clamping.
BUT, cannot find the hose part numbers for the 1983 380SL :-(
Rats. Would it be the same for other model SL's?
My memory is failing but I did purchase a section of hose a few years ago from a fellow 380SL member - something like a 42mm piece of hose and I'll have to locate it in all my crap.
Still need to make a trip to Harbor Freight for some hose clamps.
AND I have 3/4 tank of fuel so I need to drive "Angel" some before I start ... but no Hot Restarts are allowed.
I purchased the Cohline W0133-1633887 from PartsGeek, the hose connected to the fitting has enough length allowing you to cut off and use a short section for the hose between the pump and damper. It fit perfectly, and works for all 81 - 85.
 

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1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
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7,002 Posts
Discussion Starter #429
I purchased the Cohline W0133-1633887 from PartsGeek, the hose connected to the fitting has enough length allowing you to cut off and use a short section for the hose between the pump and damper. It fit perfectly, and works for all 81 - 85.
I need to get up under my 380SL and see how its all plumbed.
I assume the fuel line from the tank feeds first to the Filter, then the Fuel Pump, and then to the Accumulator - and I need to clamp the line feeding the Filter. Is that right???
 

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1985 380 SL
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131 Posts
A
I need to get up under my 380SL and see how its all plumbed.
I assume the fuel line from the tank feeds first to the Filter, then the Fuel Pump, and then to the Accumulator - and I need to clamp the line feeding the Filter. Is that right???
The line I was referring to comes from the tank to the damper, then a short section connects the damper to the pump inlet. You could pinch this line but if it is old it could be damaged. Mine was bad enough that just by squeezing it by hand fuel seeped through. You have to drain the tank to change this one since the line screws directly into the bottom of the tank. While under there if these hoses (and the return line hose) are suspect they should be changed. I did the hoses on my car when I replaced the filter and accumulator.
 

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R/C107 Moderator
1986 560SL: '84 500SL: '84 280SL 5 speed: other 107s
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32,526 Posts
I need to get up under my 380SL and see how its all plumbed.
I assume the fuel line from the tank feeds first to the Filter, then the Fuel Pump, and then to the Accumulator - and I need to clamp the line feeding the Filter. Is that right???
Not right. As he said. Tank to damper cage then pump then filter then the accumulator is in line to the FD. Your 560 is a little different as it does not have the damper and has two pumps.
 

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Premium Member
'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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10,557 Posts
I had/have an intermittent clicking noise coming from rear of car, usually while turning at low speed. I removed the rear wheels to inspect, but see nothing wrong. Sway bar links good, sway bar bushings good, CV boots good (Originals 48 yr old, no cracks!) . Hub to axle bolts tight.

While there, lubed brakes and replaced wheels. Lot of dirt under hub caps, so will clean the rims off. Then see if I can reproduce clicking. I did clean some stuff out of the trunk!
 

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Replaced the rear shocks. What a PIA! My wrenches are Snap-on and we’re too thick to hold the two nuts at the top separately. Had to buy a cheep 17mm wrench at a pawn shop and grind it down a bit. After a overnight soak in PB Blaster I was able to get the nuts off. They were the original shocks.
2643593
 

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Registered
1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
Joined
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7,002 Posts
Discussion Starter #434
I had/have an intermittent clicking noise coming from rear of car, usually while turning at low speed. I removed the rear wheels to inspect, but see nothing wrong. Sway bar links good, sway bar bushings good, CV boots good (Originals 48 yr old, no cracks!) . Hub to axle bolts tight.

While there, lubed brakes and replaced wheels. Lot of dirt under hub caps, so will clean the rims off. Then see if I can reproduce clicking. I did clean some stuff out of the trunk!
I've had a noise that sounded like a clicking sound from the rear.
One time it was those stabilizer links at the rear.
The second time it was actually loose tie rods in the front.
 

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Premium Member
'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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10,557 Posts
I've had a noise that sounded like a clicking sound from the rear.
One time it was those stabilizer links at the rear.
The second time it was actually loose tie rods in the front.
I had some excisions off my back and they are still healing, so not good time to lie on back. So far today, I have only looked at the easy stuff! Emptied trunk. Windows up and down. Top down and boot cover properly latched.

Yesterday, getting at sway bar links was bad enough given my condition. But they were good and so was everything else I could see through wheel wells. Noise seems mainly to come from passenger side middle and back. But also from driver side front.

No noise while driving normally. Usually when turning slowly back or frontwards. But not too repeatable. Not a rotating sound. More of a creak.

I need to look at flex disks and front/back suspension. Really need to get car on a lift. Have friend with one, but need to see when it will be free.
 

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Premium Member
'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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10,557 Posts
I need to look at flex disks and front/back suspension. Really need to get car on a lift. Have friend with one, but need to see when it will be free.
Couldn't wait, so I put car up on ramps. Front and back. Don't see anything wrong. Took pictures of flex disks and they look like new. I think we must have replaced them when we had transmission out.

I do have some oil leaking from diff and some from engine/transmission area. Didn't investigate.

So, no answers yet.

Moving back to W123 - Have new exhaust pipes coming next week.
 

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1985 380SL
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14 Posts
A minor victory today. I got my windshield washer pump working. It had been replaced by a previous owner in the past, and I’m not sure if the problem was a bad splice for the connector (blade type connector as opposed to the original pin type), or a bad connection at the pump. I had previously checked the pump and knew it was good. I re-spliced the connector wires, and reseated the connector, and all is well now. All I need to do now is replace the rock-hard wiper blades.
 

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18 Posts
Replaced all the fuel stuff except for the fuelpump in the rear of my SLC -73 and when i was done i saw that the pump was leaking just my luck

Skickat från min CLT-L29 via Tapatalk
 

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Premium Member
'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
Joined
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10,557 Posts
Replaced all the fuel stuff except for the fuelpump in the rear of my SLC -73 and when i was done i saw that the pump was leaking just my luck

Skickat från min CLT-L29 via Tapatalk
If you have to replace the pump, make sure you get a proper Djet pump. There is a Nissan pump that is identical to the original. Search this site for exact number. Otherwise, check Peachparts - They list a replacement pump. Bosch & MB have a replacement pump (same pump) that is not quite as good a replacement as the Nissan. Dn't put in a cheap aftermarket or a pump off a non-djet car.
 
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