1983 380 SL
I'm at the same job and the mirror is held in place with a push button on either side, so the only way to get it out is pull downwards with a firm grip. The lamp covers are available from SLS Im- und Export Handelsgesellschaft mbH - Online Shop or slshop.co.uk or many other suppliers, you may want to replace all 5 of them (2 in foot weells, 1 in glove box) as they're likely discolored.started changing the 2 plastic rings around the holes where the hardtop/softtop locks into the front window and noticed some tendency to rust so i decided to remove the inner trimming. Found 2 screws on each side (top panel) but the trimming is very tight. Does anybody know how to remove it and also how to remove the rear view mirror? The left courtesy lamp broke, does anybody know if it's possible to buy a new one, couldn't find any number on it.
Thanks Andy, that was my feeling to that the chain is a bit to stretched to be able to remove the sprocket but since the Mercedessource manual on this operation didn't mention it made me post here. Where is the tensioner located and how should i go by removing it?The tensioner handles the tension on the timing chain - there is nothing to adjust.
I removed the tensioner first before removing the sprockets. I have very little to zero slack with the tensioner in and I can't image it being possible to remove the sprockets with it.
Make sure when you remove the sprockets to keep tension on the chain by using a bungee cord connected to the hood. I did one side at a time - i.e. I didn't remove both sprockets at the same time.
Are you also replacing the sprockets? A pair is about $60 and you have all of the labor done anyway...
Thanks, this is what i thought when i looked at the engine but it's nice to get it confirmed. The tension-er also has a plastic slide that is a bent shape, would you change this one as well in addition to the straight ones on both sides?
I had nearly the exact same experience with my 75k '85 380SL, I thought the passenger side had jumped a tooth because it was late but the drivers side was right on the money. I replaced the top guides (the lower one on the drivers side was already broken in two) and tensioner/slide but left the chain, both cams lined up perfectly afterward. Since the drivers side was lined up in the original condition I feel the chain had stretched little if any.Not today but yesterday I started working on the car to mount the kit to avoid "Catastrophic V8 failure" from Mercedessource and found that when i turned the engine to TDC the drivers side cam lined up at about 2 degrees after TDC and the passenger side cam lined up at about 8 degrees after TDC.
I'm thinking if the passenger side could have jumped 1 notch? I've turned the engine over about 4 times clockwise with the same result?
I've had the car since it was 2 years old and it's only been driven 80.000 km. The engine was running fine before i tore it down and i can't say it's been running better or worse over the years so this is really strange. Furthermore there are no scratches anywhere around the timing chain or on the inside of the valve covers.
Does anybody have any experience with cams being off like this? Would you leave it as is or try to turn the cam one notch since I'm removing the camgear anyway to change the plastic guides?
As you can understand I'm really nervous about this so it would be great to get some guidance or ideas from someone with a little experience on this.
Check it for wear. The lining PN 116 052 01 83 is replaceable and fairly cheap but may be NLA. If worn or broken you can replace the whole thing 116 050 31 16 .Thanks, this is what i thought when i looked at the engine but it's nice to get it confirmed. The tension-er also has a plastic slide that is a bent shape, would you change this one as well in addition to the straight ones on both sides?