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1973 450SL and 2004 SL500
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57 Posts
I'm gonna drive mine this Winter.
Sunny South :)
Like Summer, there are days when the weather is nice and there are days when the car stays inside.
We definitely aspire to that!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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1984 380SL
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57 Posts
started changing the 2 plastic rings around the holes where the hardtop/softtop locks into the front window and noticed some tendency to rust so i decided to remove the inner trimming. Found 2 screws on each side (top panel) but the trimming is very tight. Does anybody know how to remove it and also how to remove the rear view mirror? The left courtesy lamp broke, does anybody know if it's possible to buy a new one, couldn't find any number on it.
 

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(Yesterday) I replaced a broken headlight bezel. Later this morning I'm taking it to the shop for ball joint and transmission bushing work.
 

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1983 380 SL
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2,494 Posts
Just received the new main bearings for my 380. Next up is Time-sert the block and then reinstall the crank. This is going to take a while. I hope I remember how to put this beast back together.
Notice the sleeve in #6 (second from left in picture). I've been told this is a first.

MercBlockOnEngineStand.jpg
 

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'79 450SL, '04 CLK200 convertible; former A124, W210, A209.
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1,389 Posts
started changing the 2 plastic rings around the holes where the hardtop/softtop locks into the front window and noticed some tendency to rust so i decided to remove the inner trimming. Found 2 screws on each side (top panel) but the trimming is very tight. Does anybody know how to remove it and also how to remove the rear view mirror? The left courtesy lamp broke, does anybody know if it's possible to buy a new one, couldn't find any number on it.
I'm at the same job and the mirror is held in place with a push button on either side, so the only way to get it out is pull downwards with a firm grip. The lamp covers are available from SLS Im- und Export Handelsgesellschaft mbH - Online Shop or slshop.co.uk or many other suppliers, you may want to replace all 5 of them (2 in foot weells, 1 in glove box) as they're likely discolored.
 

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1973 450 SL
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1,885 Posts
I installed a USB power plug yesterday. I got tired of using an adapter in the cigar lighter. I decided to tap power from the right window switch connector. This took some work because the power and ground leads are 2.5mm conductors which is the maximum size for the solder well on the pin bushings. I used a jewelers file to hone the tip and make it fit. I ran the USB lead from the space under the package shelf, under the carpet, under the console to the right window switch. Here are some pictures of how it all looks in a '73.

Power windows are not depicted on the 1973 wiring diagram. The 1974 ETM depicts an SLC setup; too many switches and the pinout is wrong for me but the wire colors are relevant.

2617831


2617832


2617833


Power at pin bushing 3, ground at pin bushing 4.

2617834


The whole reason for this was to provide a more discrete power source for this old iPhone 6 that has all my music on it. The 3.5mm jack box is what Becker Autosound added for me. It is secured to the carpet using wood screws and a thin anchor block underneath the carpet. When you unplug the 3.5mm jack, you have FM again. Becker installs this as an interrupt circuit.

2617835


My gearshift light has been intermittent. The chrome gearshift case is something I picked up from the salvage yard a few years ago. I took the opportunity to improve the wiring and resolder the leads to the points on the light socket.

2617837


I like to use these little 2 pole connectors when I decide to make an electrical component more modular for R&R purposes. They are widely available on later model salvage cars so I keep a sack of them in my parts bin.

2617838


All put back together. I was not happy with the ground point on the 8mm machine screw for the harness anchor. I moved it to the unused 2 pole connector clipped to the forward console. That connector incidentally, was an interim factory fix when the temperature vacuum switch light function changed. Originally, the light would illuminate when the A/C compressor was commanded on (A/C switch on and temp probe commanding A/C switch closed). I think this intermittent light, correctly functioning as designed, was bothersome. A change was made to put the light on circuit 58d with the other adjustable console lights.

Another fun fact, the gearshift light is not on the dimming circuit. The only other light on the console that is not adjustable is the Fasten Seatbelts light.

The grey lead for the gearshift light is routed through the clip as a means to keep the assembly from rattling around.

2617839
 

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1984 380SL
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57 Posts
Removed the camcovers to start changing the plastic cam shaft oiler tube clips and timing chain upper guide rails to prevent catastrophic V8 engine failure as it's nicely put in Kent Bergsma's instructions on Mercedessource. Read the instructions for the guide rails twice and was surprised not to find anything about checking the tension of the timing chain? Is the tension never checked or is it automatic in some way? Any ideas?
Also when removing the camshaft sprocket, is there enough slack to get it of without releasing any tension on the timing chain?
 

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1974 450SL (US), 2005 SLK200 (UK)
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320 Posts
The tensioner handles the tension on the timing chain - there is nothing to adjust.

I removed the tensioner first before removing the sprockets. I have very little to zero slack with the tensioner in and I can't image it being possible to remove the sprockets with it.

Make sure when you remove the sprockets to keep tension on the chain by using a bungee cord connected to the hood. I did one side at a time - i.e. I didn't remove both sprockets at the same time.

Are you also replacing the sprockets? A pair is about $60 and you have all of the labor done anyway...

Andy
 

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1984 380SL
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57 Posts
The tensioner handles the tension on the timing chain - there is nothing to adjust.

I removed the tensioner first before removing the sprockets. I have very little to zero slack with the tensioner in and I can't image it being possible to remove the sprockets with it.

Make sure when you remove the sprockets to keep tension on the chain by using a bungee cord connected to the hood. I did one side at a time - i.e. I didn't remove both sprockets at the same time.

Are you also replacing the sprockets? A pair is about $60 and you have all of the labor done anyway...

Andy
Thanks Andy, that was my feeling to that the chain is a bit to stretched to be able to remove the sprocket but since the Mercedessource manual on this operation didn't mention it made me post here. Where is the tensioner located and how should i go by removing it?
 

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1984 380SL
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57 Posts
Not today but yesterday I started working on the car to mount the kit to avoid "Catastrophic V8 failure" from Mercedessource and found that when i turned the engine to TDC the drivers side cam lined up at about 2 degrees after TDC and the passenger side cam lined up at about 8 degrees after TDC.
I'm thinking if the passenger side could have jumped 1 notch? I've turned the engine over about 4 times clockwise with the same result?
I've had the car since it was 2 years old and it's only been driven 80.000 km. The engine was running fine before i tore it down and i can't say it's been running better or worse over the years so this is really strange. Furthermore there are no scratches anywhere around the timing chain or on the inside of the valve covers.
Does anybody have any experience with cams being off like this? Would you leave it as is or try to turn the cam one notch since I'm removing the camgear anyway to change the plastic guides?

As you can understand I'm really nervous about this so it would be great to get some guidance or ideas from someone with a little experience on this.
 

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1974 450SL (US), 2005 SLK200 (UK)
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320 Posts
Six degrees difference is not that much - can be corrected with an offset woodruff Key. Change the sprockets, chain, guides and tensioner then recheck. Andy
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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10,145 Posts
I may be wrong, but I think the normal way to check chain stretch, is to align the passenger side cam marks, then observe how far from TDC the marks on the balancer are. At same time, check the driver side cam marks. Probably a good idea to rotate the engine several times while checking this to be sure the readings are consistent.
 

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R/C107 Moderator
1986 560SL: '84 500SL: '84 280SL 5 speed: other 107s
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31,991 Posts
Tensioner is the long red phallic looking thing sticking out on the left side of pic. (right side of the engine) Your tensioner will not be as long as the one in the picture.

Timimg Chain 2.jpg
 

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1984 380SL
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57 Posts
Thanks for all the answers but i think i made a mistake in my assumptions i think, correct me if i'm wrong. I got the degrees by looking at the crankshaft angle when the marks on the two cams where aligned which gave me 2 ATDC and 8ATDC. When looking at it again yesterday i realized that the 8ATDC cam actually had the beginning of the notch in the cam aligned with the mark on the camtower instead of the bottom of the notch and that only makes about 1 or 2 degrees of the cams full rotation that is. Also since the crank turns 2 full turns when the cams only turns once it should give half the angle on the cam compared to the crank. So the question is which of these 2 angles are normally used when discussing the offset of the camshaft? I'm new to this thinking with no experience which is why i need some input on my thinking.
 

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1984 380SL
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57 Posts
Tensioner is the long red phallic looking thing sticking out on the left side of pic. (right side of the engine) Your tensioner will not be as long as the one in the picture.

View attachment 2620507
Thanks, this is what i thought when i looked at the engine but it's nice to get it confirmed. The tension-er also has a plastic slide that is a bent shape, would you change this one as well in addition to the straight ones on both sides?
 

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1985 380 SL
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86 Posts
Not today but yesterday I started working on the car to mount the kit to avoid "Catastrophic V8 failure" from Mercedessource and found that when i turned the engine to TDC the drivers side cam lined up at about 2 degrees after TDC and the passenger side cam lined up at about 8 degrees after TDC.
I'm thinking if the passenger side could have jumped 1 notch? I've turned the engine over about 4 times clockwise with the same result?
I've had the car since it was 2 years old and it's only been driven 80.000 km. The engine was running fine before i tore it down and i can't say it's been running better or worse over the years so this is really strange. Furthermore there are no scratches anywhere around the timing chain or on the inside of the valve covers.
Does anybody have any experience with cams being off like this? Would you leave it as is or try to turn the cam one notch since I'm removing the camgear anyway to change the plastic guides?

As you can understand I'm really nervous about this so it would be great to get some guidance or ideas from someone with a little experience on this.
I had nearly the exact same experience with my 75k '85 380SL, I thought the passenger side had jumped a tooth because it was late but the drivers side was right on the money. I replaced the top guides (the lower one on the drivers side was already broken in two) and tensioner/slide but left the chain, both cams lined up perfectly afterward. Since the drivers side was lined up in the original condition I feel the chain had stretched little if any.
 

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Premium Member
1983 380 SL
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2,494 Posts
The procedure is for cam timing not ignition timing. Rotate the engine by the large bolt in the balancer to exactly 0 degrees (that will put the engine in top dead center of cylinder 1) after the crank is at 0 degrees then check the cam timing marks... both should be at or very near their marks on the cam and cam towers. Sleight variations are not a problem but significant differences are. Post a picture of both cam timing settings when the crank is at TDC and we will be able to determine if corrective action is required. (y)
 

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R/C107 Moderator
1986 560SL: '84 500SL: '84 280SL 5 speed: other 107s
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31,991 Posts
Thanks, this is what i thought when i looked at the engine but it's nice to get it confirmed. The tension-er also has a plastic slide that is a bent shape, would you change this one as well in addition to the straight ones on both sides?
Check it for wear. The lining PN 116 052 01 83 is replaceable and fairly cheap but may be NLA. If worn or broken you can replace the whole thing 116 050 31 16 .
 
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