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1987 300SL
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2,518 Posts
Thanks fixer, I'm about to replace the carpet in my boot/trunk and am also missing the surround around the auto antennae. That gives me some good ideas. I've had two considerations for the bulkhead carpet, velcro it on which is how it is at the moment. It won't be going anywhere with good quality velcro. Or glue the carpet on but leave top and bottom free so the carpet can be pulled back to get to the bulkhead bolts off/on. Nice job!
 

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1987 300SL
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2,518 Posts
In Australia, insurance will make your life difficult if you don't lock your car and it's stolen/damaged
But I find it funny, how do you lock a convertible, and I never seem to worry when I leave it out front with no roof, there seems to be a general hands off rule around convertibles, old ones at least
 

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1987 300SL
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2,518 Posts
Did you remove your Hood (aka Bonnet) when you installed the insulation pad?
I need to do mine and thought it would be easier if it was removed.
I'm going to start replacing my hood insulation tomorrow @cwmoser . I have gone through many ways to do it and come to the conclusion the bonnet should come off. Once I get the old insulation off and clean the underneath of the bonnet I'll lay the new insulation onto the bonnet, then fold half back and apply the glue and adhere that half, then do the other half. Let you know how it goes
 

· Registered
1987 300SL
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2,518 Posts
Nice look with a new Hood Pad.
Doing this, how many people do you recommend to do this?

The Pad on my 380SL is still good after 37 years.
The Pad on my 560SL is falling apart and I use 3M spray adhesive but I wonder if
there is something better as the pad has come unglued a couple times - might be because the Pad is simply deteriorating.
I don't feel the foam pads will last all that long, but it surprised me how easy it was to apply, in the end, Carl
I used Sika contact adhesive 105, which is a rebrand from their 4600 AU
Didn't bother completely cleaning everything off the bonnet (hood), just removed all the foam and any loose stuff left over
Then used a 130mm foam roller to apply the glue to the pad first (pad takes a tiny bit longer to dry) then to the bonnet
Don't apply the glue to about 20 or 30mm around the pad or bonnet, makes it easier to handle and apply
Definitely two people, one to hold the pad up on one side and in about the right position without contacting the bonnet
The other person lines it up just over the top lip, about 4 or 5mm, and apply the first bit to the bonnet
Hold it there, although if you get the glue set up time right, about 10 mins, it will hold on it's own
Grab the bottom corner, same side, and apply it to the bonnet, keeping it snug inside against the fold in the edge of the bonnet
Then just tap spots along this edge, then lightly push the pad against the bonnet working across to the other side
It will go on and stay surprisingly easy, then tuck in the other edge
That's when I used the roller in the below pic, in this case a carpet seam roller, but anything will do including a small paint roller
Once it's all rolled flat then tuck the edge of the pad into the top lip, finishes it off really well and helps prevent if from peeling off with usage
I thought it would be easier to remove the bonnet, but taking the pad up to the installed bonnet makes it easier, it only contacts the bonnet when you push it on to it, and where you want it
Keep in mind my glue tack time of around 10 mins was with 10c and humidity around 85, drier hotter climates will be quite a deal less
Between this pad and the boot carpet the car feels that much cleaner and neater, and finished (almost!)
Pics below are the glue used, reasonably thin and rolls very easily, the foam roller, carpet roller, and other pic shows the lip you want to install the carpet just over, then tuck it under
I used about half of the first 1 litre can of glue on the boot carpet, then bought another litre to make sure I didn't run out
If you're just doing the bonnet, I used a little over half a litre

Product Tire Material property Auto part Room
Ceiling Architecture
 

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1987 300SL
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2,518 Posts
Decided to open up the heater blower box, see what it's like in there
Not as bad as I was expecting, top and lower seals look to be only a couple of years old

Auto part Engine Vehicle Car Metal


Closer inspection did find some rust forming. Glad I had a look now, stop this from getting any worse

Tire Automotive wheel system Rust Auto part Wheel


Scratched all the flaky rust out, good spray with Penetrol, waited for it to dry then a good layer of bitumen paint

Tire Auto part Automotive tire Automotive exterior Bumper


Put everything back once it dries completely and hopefully won't have to look at it for another 10 years
 

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1987 300SL
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2,518 Posts
How complicated is it to remove the panels around the stereo in a 380SL to install it, does anybody know?
You'll need metal 'keys' to remove the existing stereo. Lots of different keys around though, which one depends on what unit you have in there at the moment
Removing the glove box will give you more working access around the back
 

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1987 300SL
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2,518 Posts
So finally have everything in place like i wanted it. Pre and Post pictures.
By the way, any tips on good speakers that will fit in the original front holes since the ones i have need to be changed?
Polk DB402 fit straight in Martin, and I run an underseat sub with them, Cerwin Vega VPAS10 10". Powered by a Continental head unit which I believe is the same as your Kienzle. Good sound and there is no evidence of any more holes or extra speakers
 

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1987 300SL
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2,518 Posts
Fan switch fell apart couple of days ago, well actually it fell in. Pulled the heat/acc dash out today and found the brackets holding the switch broken
Figured the quickest way to get it back going again was to repair the brackets using a couple of bits of metal
All went together ok and everything back working again

Auto part Machine Metal Machine tool
Machine tool Machine Metal
Electronics Technology Electronic device Circuit component Machine
 

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1987 300SL
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2,518 Posts
@elCheapoDeluxe if the carpet is stuck that well mineral spirits probably won't touch that glue, not without a lot of work. Definitely scrape it off as @KentsCars mentioned. If you want to try heat, go very easy. Poly melts really easy and quick, then you've got another mess to clean off. I'd just get in there with a 1" metal scraper which should take the bulk off fairly quickly
 

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1987 300SL
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2,518 Posts
Removed the rear spoiler and filled/painted the boot/trunk. Fixed half a dozen small dings, replaced the rear bumper rubber, repaired and painted front and rear valances, repaired very minor rust to both front guards, lhs door skin and rather large hole under the ABS unit. Replaced boot and bonnet badges. Car is looking pretty clean and neat now. I did get some new side moulds but they don't fit, so that's for later
 

· Registered
1987 300SL
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2,518 Posts
Well, I sold it today, or should I say someone made me an offer I couldn’t refuse. Person said they’d been liking for a car like mine for 30 years...didn’t make sense to me either, these are readily available but no matter his cash was more than good! I refused his first few offers over a period of about two months but the last one was a clincher, couldn’t refuse it. Well what now you ask...I’m not sure but this money is burning a hole in my pocket!🤯
My second choice would be a very nice W126 500SEC
 
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