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What have you done for your W210 today/lately?

170432 Views 1248 Replies 228 Participants Last post by  SocalSam
This thread was created to elicit quick report of TLC or modification not
necessarily worthy of a thread, but simply an opportunity for us to highlight
something, e.g. wash, new shoes, wiper blade, seat conditioner, etc. So, let's
brag or share, folks. :)

I cleaned out my windshield washer tank because the additives in the wash
corroded my sensor and it was reporting 'low fluid' though the tank was full.
A little tooth brushing and flossing did the trick. Natch I've switched to different
fluid. (stay away from RainX orange)
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I never had any symptoms on three of my W210s when the motor mounts collapsed. Check the clearance on your bottom radiator hose and chassis.
Engine vibrates at idle and in gear. Vibration goes away in P or N. Trans mount was not enough, engine mounts are next.
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Replaced my tail light bulbs this weekend, sadly that didn't solve the brake light that is out. Of course it couldn't be the easy fix. Also found out that I have at least 3 other lights out on the car (2 license plate bulbs and an inner headlight). Also might have a brights bulb out on the passenger side, I am not totally sure yet.
sadly that didn't solve the brake light that is out
That's a known issue.

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That's a known issue.

Thanks! Looks like a new socket is pretty cheap so I ordered one of those along with some engine mounts.

Replaced the hood struts today so the hood will actually stay up on its own. Also cleaned a shocking number of leaves out of the engine bay.
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Thanks! Looks like a new socket is pretty cheap so I ordered one of those along with some engine mounts.

Replaced the hood struts today so the hood will actually stay up on its own. Also cleaned a shocking number of leaves out of the engine bay.
Check you cabin filter behind the glove box. Dirty wiper trough means lots of debris on the filters.
Attempted engine mounts and failed. Did not have right wrench to break top 16mm nuts. While car was on stands, looked for a found oil leak coming from passenger side valve cover. I'll do both sides and the test port on front cover. My initial shade tree alignment was off a little so gave it some attention. Steering wheel is aligned to straight ahead now. Car seems to be tracking straighter on my 5 mile test drive. We shall see as the tires bed in to the new set up.
Thanks! Looks like a new socket is pretty cheap so I ordered one of those along with some engine mounts.

Replaced the hood struts today so the hood will actually stay up on its own. Also cleaned a shocking number of leaves out of the engine bay.
Lately my E430 has been sitting in my driveway under a tree. And every morning my ritual is to take out the shop vac and vacuum out all the leaves in crevices and then open the hood and vacuum out all around a heater intake

if you don't do that regularly that junk will accumulate down by the blower motor

and it will clog up the drain tubes on each end of the firewall and then you can start to get rust issues
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Lately my E430 has been sitting in my driveway under a tree. And every morning my ritual is to take out the shop vac and vacuum out all the leaves in crevices and then open the hood and vacuum out all around a heater intake

if you don't do that regularly that junk will accumulate down by the blower motor

and it will clog up the drain tubes on each end of the firewall and then you can start to get rust issues
Lol......I do the same thing. My neighbors must think I'm a little bit wacky. I do the trunk lid seals also.
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Thanks! Looks like a new socket is pretty cheap so I ordered one of those along with some engine mounts...
Which wrench did you order? I ordered this one today.



Flex head ratcheting wrench does not grip top nut so it was useless for the job. I have a shortie flex head ratchet but can't apply enough leverage. Mid-size ratchet could work but I don't have one.
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Cleaning ,detailing ,finding out that I always should have a spared battery at home in case it's battery drops too much charge and I'll soon take it for an alignment and change its front shocks.
Finally took the project w210 for its first test drive after installing a whole new cooling system (radiator, fan, water pump, etc) and now I can finally move on to the much needed typical maintenance stuff. Planning to start with the power steering fluid flush/replace today. But I was wondering if anyone knew what this part is called or a part number by any chance (unrelated to power steering)


Finally took the project w210 for its first test drive after installing a whole new cooling system (radiator, fan, water pump, etc) and now I can finally move on to the much needed typical maintenance stuff. Planning to start with the power steering fluid flush/replace today. But I was wondering if anyone knew what this part is called or a part number by any chance (unrelated to power steering)


It's a cover #380 and its tether #390. Part number will depend on model year and styling package.
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Replaced cowl vent and cowl under tray with parts from a same color '99 donor. Both parts had broken screw tabs so were lose.

Went to get gas and found drivers door window would not open. I can hear the motor clicking but there is no movement. Sigh. Does it ever end? This will be my third window issue. I have owned the car for just over two months.
Lol......I do the same thing. My neighbors must think I'm a little bit wacky. I do the trunk lid seals also.
If you don't do that and decide to change the blower motor it's amazing the crap that's in there and affecting the airflow
4
Took the E430 on the monthly first Sunday Drive with our club. It was a short drive but there's some beautiful back roads near the coast ranges with lunch in Vacaville

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Put some screw in buttons to hold the headliner up.Have a new headliner fabric and glue but no time for such a big project plus I want to get the sunroof working first so I don’t dirty the new headliner.
Car Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Vehicle Automotive tire
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Spent last two hours chasing front window problem. Replaced drivers door module, no change in condition. Removed motor and manually worked regulator, it was good. Tried a known good window motor, no go. Checked wiring between DDM and motor and found continuity break in the heavy black wire. Pin was sheared inside the connector to the motor.
Over the winter (couple months ago) replaced the leftside primary cat with a Magnaflow 59976. fit perfectly. Welded in place with a few pieces of pipe. Removed both secondary cats, installed an ebay X-pipe. Removed resonator. Not too shabby, won't win any sema awards but it sure sounds sweet.... nice low growl when you give it all the onions. At idle or one the highway it almost sounds stock with the auto go juice turned on. Bought my first welder, a harbor freight flux unit. Total cost including the welder was under $800. Independent performance shop quoted over $2,000.
Fixed drivers window. Had to splice a new (to me) electric motor pigtail.
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My replacement for my burnt out tail light socket arrived today, so I replaced that. I’m not sure if it’s actually fixed the problem since I couldn’t get behind the car and look. I’ll probably get a friend to check tomorrow if I don’t take my motorcycle to work.

Also ordered some brake parts and the special wrench for the motor mounts job. After looking inside my engine bay I concluded there was absolutely no way I would be able to reach the top bolt from the top of the engine.
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