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Sprayed the stupid yellow jackets that are trying to make nests under the hood, in doorjambs and around the trunk! Hate those things!

Maybe I should drive it more? Hehe
 

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Used my OBD2 Reader for the first time

After topping up my oil and washer fluid and letting a bit of air out of the tires (the weather is finally warming up here in Toronto and the tires were all up a few pounds) I used my new OBD2 reader to try and find out why my check engine light came on last week. No real drivability issues, power is down just slightly, and I have notices my gas mileage is up a bit so figure I'm running a bit lean. Got code P0400 - Exhaust Gas Recirc - Flow. Time to book an appointment with the dealer I guess.
 

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After topping up my oil and washer fluid and letting a bit of air out of the tires (the weather is finally warming up here in Toronto and the tires were all up a few pounds) I used my new OBD2 reader to try and find out why my check engine light came on last week. No real drivability issues, power is down just slightly, and I have notices my gas mileage is up a bit so figure I'm running a bit lean. Got code P0400 - Exhaust Gas Recirc - Flow. Time to book an appointment with the dealer I guess.
Try this first: (Courtesy of Greg)
I can't tell you exactly what part of the EGR that pertains to, nor am I sure how precise the codes are. That said, this is how I'd proceed.

1. Disconnect the vacuum line from the EGR valve and fit a longer piece of hose on it. Suck on it and be sure the diaphram holds vacuum (if you have to keep sucking on it that is bad). If it does not hold vacuum, replace the valve.

2. Remove the little plastic check valve (one end won't be connected, this is normal). Note which end is plugged in. Inspect it for cracks/damage and suck on it. It should allow air flow in one direction only. If it is suspect, replace it.

3. If it checks out thus far, then remove the EGR valve and tube. Clean both thoroughly (the tube can be particularly troublesome to clean, pipe cleaners can help) and check the diaphram (again) and make sure the mechanism moves smoothly (visual check) when you apply vacuum. If not, replace it.

4. Inspect the gasket for damage, if any is present, replace it.

5. Replace/clean/reinstall as necessary.

Reset codes and drive car, see if the issue is resolved.
 

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Try this first: (Courtesy of Greg)
I can't tell you exactly what part of the EGR that pertains to, nor am I sure how precise the codes are. That said, this is how I'd proceed.

1. Disconnect the vacuum line from the EGR valve and fit a longer piece of hose on it. Suck on it and be sure the diaphram holds vacuum (if you have to keep sucking on it that is bad). If it does not hold vacuum, replace the valve.

2. Remove the little plastic check valve (one end won't be connected, this is normal). Note which end is plugged in. Inspect it for cracks/damage and suck on it. It should allow air flow in one direction only. If it is suspect, replace it.

3. If it checks out thus far, then remove the EGR valve and tube. Clean both thoroughly (the tube can be particularly troublesome to clean, pipe cleaners can help) and check the diaphram (again) and make sure the mechanism moves smoothly (visual check) when you apply vacuum. If not, replace it.

4. Inspect the gasket for damage, if any is present, replace it.

5. Replace/clean/reinstall as necessary.

Reset codes and drive car, see if the issue is resolved.
I did all of the above and still got the code. So I replaced the EGR valve assy. and that fixed it. Must have been the electronic component of the valve. Fortunately, it's not a super expensive part but I shudder to think what the repair would have cost at the dealer...
 

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Changed the CPS on my 1999 E320 today as a preventative measure because my kid is taking the car to college in the fall.

Does anyone know what the resistance range is for the CPS?

The E320 sensor (Bosch) was tested at 1.1 K ohms. It was replaced with a new OEM one with the name and part number grinded off. It tested at .659 K ohms. I also have an OEM one removed from my former 1999 CLK320 with 25,470 miles (on sensor) which tested at .664 K ohms.
 

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'97 E420) Well let's see; I decided to repair the lower core support. (someone had curbed it, and fan hitting radiator) So, I remove radiator, and find that not only is the cradle bent, but some welds are popped loose. I remove the cradle, straighten it, and re-install it. Got it all sealed, and shot a coat of paint on it, re- installed the radiator, got it all buttoned up just in time for my Granddaughters birthday party. :D
 

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Been wanting to do a double DIN conversion for the longest time, of course the only proper way to do this is to pay Mercedes $400 for the proper control stack trim and $50 for the double DIN cage. Was scouring eBay and the cheapest cage, trim, and COMAND bundle is $600.

Went to Pick-n-Pull the other week looking for a power window master switch, and the very first car I look at I hit the jackpot.

Paid $20 for all that including the instrument cluster.

 

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So, I was driving the car a little harder than usual this past week, faster accelerations, etc. And the check-engine light went off on it's own.
Been driving quite a bit the past few days, lots of miles, and the CEL has not come back on. I get no codes no with the OBD2 reader now either.
 

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Gave it a wash yesterday.

Mechanically speaking, over the past 7 months or so, I have:

1) done oil change
2) replaced engine vent hose (wrong one was installed)
3) replaced rear air filter mounts
4) replaced engine and transmission mounts
5) replaced driver side door brake
6) reglue door panel attachments
7) replaced front brake pads
8) replaced light fuse and a few bulbs, including front bulbs with new oem bulbs
9) replaced passenger headlamp assembly with genuine
10) replaced driver side headlamp lens with oem
11) replaced driver side headlamp harness (not oem, was not able to find one )
12) replaced hood struts

Below I have before and after photos of the headlamps. In real life the headlamps now look much clearer than in photos I take.


Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

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I finally fixed the sagging headliner on my 2002 Special Edition. The upholstery shop did a very nice job. I did most of disassembly of the interior and the shop took the headliner out of the car and installed back in. I did the remaining interior assembly. I payed $400.
I also took the same car to a body to refinish the roof molding strips and the antenna cover. They did a very good job and the car looks great. I spent $400.
Replacing the parts would have been around $550.
 

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Well, let's see, I pulled the radiator, repaired the lower cradle, re- installed the radiator, replaced the oil tubes on the left bank, changed the oil, and took it for a drive. While driving, CEL came on, code 304. So, tomorrow I try to get that sussed.

Will trade for a W140. (less of a PITA) ;)
 

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reminded myself why cheap chinese mafs are not recommended... i got about a year out of a $20 unit before it started throwing the cel at altitude and maf codes to my reader. it's $30 replacement lasted about 10 miles before stalling on startup, throwing fuel trim errors & surging at low rpms. a $43 used unit (bosch) from an '04 320 at my local pick-n-pull seems to be doing the trick for now though!

in concept, it seems a relatively simple part; how much voltage to keep a little wire hot? why haven't the chinese been able to master that?
 

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This week we celebrated a year with our E320. To recap the first year, it got an oil change along with a new belt, idler, and tensioner. Over the past year of driving, almost 5,000 miles, the oil consumption is nil and no fluid or coolant leaks.

At first there was a problem with the right rear brake light, the two small LCD displays on the instrument cluster were out, and there was some leakage around the sealing surfaces on the breathers. If you have a M112 or M113 you know what that is about. For each of those repairs I posted a writeup in the appropriate W210 thread.

Our E320 delivers 30 mpg+ driving a steady 70+ on the Interstate. In town it is more like 21-22. This car was born to run on the Interstate.... The driving and ride comfort are excellent.

Our thanks to all of you who have shared your knowledge and experience on this forum.
 

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I replaced the radiator, upper hose and lower hose on my 2001. I also flushed the cooling system a few times with distilled water and filled with Zerex G-05.
Today I replaced the front shock absorbers and coil springs as well. The spring compressor was money well spent.
 

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