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99' E320, 00' E320, 03' E320T, 05' C230K
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I replaced the trim pieces between the windshield and the hood. Looks soo much better!
LOL...............I just did the same thing. Most BANG for the buck I got in a long time! About $30 for the pair (Genuine MB).

Also replaced my cruise control switch.
 

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Amen, brother! I replaced all the filters when I bought mine and the cabin filters were disgusting - they may have been the factory originals. A year later there's still a musty smell so I'm thinking of replacing them again and bleaching as much of the ductwork as I can reach.

Did you replace the charcoal filters, too?
Musty smell might be coming from your carbon filter. Mine were changed recently. They were the original factory installed filters and over 18 years old, sagging and moldy.

Post #88 here:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1479840-cabin-charcoal-filter-9.html
 

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EGR Hoses

Replaced all of my EGR hoses today. They're not leaking, did it just because they are close to 19 years old.
 

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Replaced my audio volume control knob and tried to exorcise the demon in the switch.

Partially successful. Random volume change is gone, but speed control volume seems more noticeable now :(

Cleaner works better if radio is removed and stood up vertically.

Knob part # for Becker is Q 4 82 0116 about $7.50
 

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Cleaner works even better if you pry off the black plastic control buttons surrounding the knob. They just snap back on...

Fred
I didn't see any access to the volume control switch shaft when the "telephone" button accidently popped off when I removed the radio from the dash. It wasn't even accessible after I removed the top cover of the unit.

Are there holes under the other buttons? Does the "rocking cross" also pop off?
 

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Had alignment done. Road feel seems better and dead-on-center feeling is gone :)

Front toe was off. Spec range is supposed to be 0.00-0.17 degrees.
Left was .25 and right -0.05 degrees.
 

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Installed H&R front sway bar and played with the tire air pressure. Currently running 33 psi front and rear.

This car is really a pleasure to drive now especially after the front end alignment. Still not a "sport" sedan, but a very capable/comfortable touring sedan for sure!
 

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Disabled my speed controlled audio volume. Just couldn't take it anymore.
 

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Polished headlights this morning.

From what I’ve seen during my search for a W210, the first gen cars seem to have a lot worse headlight lens clouding than the second gen models. Maybe it’s just due to the age, but I rarely saw a second gen car with cloudy headlights like I did first gen. Anyway, mine weren’t bad, but I could see where they were starting to cloud around the edges so I figured I would be proactive.

Got this kit from 3M via Amazon:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AIZ5HY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They make about four different versions of this kit ranging from $12 up to over $30. The difference seems to be whether or not they include the masking tape and a sealant in the high end one. I’ve got all sorts of 3M blue painter’s tape around the house, so I didn’t need any of that.

Masked the heck out of the headlights and raised the hood. Followed the instructions using a corded drill, as there’s no way a rechargeable would ever hold up through this.

Pretty straightforward, took me about an hour from start to finish. Wasn’t difficult at all and they provide plenty of materials. When I was done I wiped the lenses down with IPA (not the beer kind) and put a couple of coats of Collinite #845 Insulator wax on them to protect the lenses.

Some observations:

Cover everything. The spatter from the compounding step will get all over everything.

Careful around the edges. The sanding disks can easily cut through your masking tape if you’re not careful, gouging your paint. I was careful *and* I did a couple layers of tape around the edges, as tape is cheap.

After I was done with the headlight lenses I tried programming the integrated remote in the rear view mirror. I wasn’t sure if it would do the rolling code stuff that my garage door opener does due to its age. It did! Huzzah!

Dan
I used the same kit. Comes with lots of disc :) except 1,000 pad. I used one from a Meguiars kit I bought in the past. Don't think the extra step made any difference in the end, but probably saved a little time in the final polish.
 
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Did a Hack Job

German engineering............I just don't get it :confused:

Plenty of space here. Why did they route the ancillary heater pump and lower radiator hoses so close to the alternator and frame? They could of saved the cost of putting the sleeves on the hoses.

The heater hose was rubbing on the alternator. I did check the motor mounts by doing the "rev" test. Movement was minimal. No vibration while driving. Probably have to replace in 10-20K.
 

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Greased the front door door checks this morning. They seemed a little noisy, so I got some Mobil1 synthetic grease stuffed into both left and right front doors. No more squeaky noises...

Dan
I need to do this. Is it true that the door panels need to come off?
 

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Changed my motor and transmission mounts today. Checked my pilot bushing for leaks also while I was down there.

There was absolutely no vibration on the old mounts, but bottom radiator and aux heater pumps hoses were rubbing on front cross member and alternator.

Driver's side mount puked its guts out.
 

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I agree with you 100%, especially the last sentence :devil

I went with #1 front and rear......should of gone #1 in rear and #2 in front (original pads) like you. Front has only 4" clearance now and will be a problem when suspension settle in more.

I just had alignment done so will wait until I start "plowing" :(

Good thing............I know how to do it now and it's an easy fix.
 

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Replaced fuel filler cap.

Tip: Unbolting the fuel filler door will make removing/attaching cap "leash" easier. 10mm socket + extension.
 

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on a related note, good idea to lubricate the little pin that locks the door closed.

1st fuel stop of a road trip last year had me wondering how the heck to fuel without damaging the door... thankfully, a little gas station wd40 eventually persuaded it to move.
Door can also be unlocked from inside the trunk (boot :))
 

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Replaced driver's side mirror glass. Old one turned bronze. Got a used one from Ebay for $35.

Replaced both outside mirror gasket.

1) Was it worth it?

$40 for the pair. Made in China. Probably cost them $2 to make and ship to the USA. Only one manufacturer as far as I know. Got to pay to play:(

2) How was the fit?

Not perfect. I would rate it an 8 out of 10. Modification was need for the wire harness plug to pass thru.

3) Would I do it again?

Yeah..........probably. I'm sure no one else would notice though.

Tip: If you're going to do this, removing the mirror cover will make life a lot easier. Test mirror function before reinstalling cover. Takes about a hour to do both side.
 

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