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Discussion Starter #1
Need info my car is not idling that well. The mechanic said this part have to be replaced. Whats this for?

Its for a 84 123 coupe. 102 engine..
 

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it appears at first glance to be your fuel pressure regulator, however it is hard to tell, could u do a pic of it slighty zoomed out so that it can be better seen in its surroundings? however it has a high pressure fuel line coming out, and a low pressure line going in, so it is most likely some version of a fuel pressure regulator, which keeps your pressure from surging during higher rpm changes and upshifts etc. hopefully helpful, but it could be better said with a "better" photo, not so close up.

JMD
 

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My thoughts exactly. A close up and a zoom out would've been good.

Like this it's a bit like the start of Thunderbirds.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Added some more pics. Its located behind the distributor cap of the car.
 

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81' 300SD, 82' 300D
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I see you have the green coolant in your engine euroamg. Now, I've got the green stuff in my radiator too, but that green stuff can hurt the radiator from what I've heard. You're only supposed to used Xerex G-05 or a MB special coolant. I have yet to find either of them, but when I do find one or the other, they'll be replacing the green stuff. Now, I'm off of my soapbox.
-Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I got it all drained out already. Pics is a ew eeks old already...[:)]
 

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I'd say something to do with fuel (pump, regulator, etc)... like Amsoil said, there are high pressure lines going to and from it.

Also there seems to be a larger high pressure line beside the curved one to the right of the first pic you posted. Seems like one of the return lines or something.

Curious question: Why didn't your mechanic tell you what part that is? He should know, he pointed it out to you. Maybe from there we can deduce things one by one.
 
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keep in mind that these vehicles come in LOTS of shapes and forms, from month to month and year to year. upon further examination of the new pics by my father, Benz Meister Mechaniker, that should definately be your "Fuel Pressure Dampener" or "Regulator". the large screw on the top of the part with a locking bolt is where you can adjust your fuel pressure during fine tuning. Try to have a "other" mechanic (skilled in old benz of course) try adjusting your pressure and mixture before finding a used part cheap from a scrap yard, while this part almost never goes bad, just out of adjustment. that is one of the old mechanic's tricks, clean the part a bit, re-adjust, and take your top dollar for a "new" part, without actually changing anything. it is possible to test it by removing the high pressure line, hooking up a fuel pressure tester, which should then read between 30-35 psi, when its lower, the mechanic should adjust it, when no result, checking for your defective fuel pump relay is next, while it would cause ur fuel pump to not get enough voltage. then check for a bad fuel pump comes next, and THEN when still no results would u want to start replacing this part. hopefully helpful on ur quest for perfection, fell free to reply for further questions.

JMD, powered by Dad, Heinrich, Meister Mechaniker der Benz KFZ Handwerk
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I was told by the mechanic that the part needs to be replaced sometime. I just had a tune up on the car replace spark plugs, plug wires, valve adjustment. When i brought it in it wasn't hard to start the car. After that a few days later i'm having trouble starting the car. Now it takes a while to get it started? Any reasons why? [?]
 

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if your motor is not getting the proper level of fuel pressure at the proper time, than any and all problems ur having will be related to and caused by this, including start up, if ur low, then ur nozzles arent spraying a fine enough spray of fuel to properly iginte, and this can lead to having to crank and crank, even with the automatic cold start engaged. do you have any visible fuel leaks around the part? have u ever changed ur Oxygen Sensor if ur equipped with "G-Kat" emissions? this also can lead to tons of probs with idle and acceleration etc. however he seems pretty sure that u are having a fuel pressure related issue. of course if uv got money "to blow", then go ahead and get the regulator replaced if ur mechanic promises u that u will run perfekt afterwards, however, it doesnt necessarily have to be that part, even though in cars, "anything's possible"

how many miles are on the motor?
when was ur last valve adjustment?
do you possibly have vacuum leaks everwhere?
is ur tank screen totally clogged? (filter inside the fuel tank)
have u replaced the other fuel filters? also can lead to major drop in fuel pressure.

aren't headache cars a blast?

JMD
 
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oh yeah, just realized, u replaced the plugs and suddenly u have idle and starting probs? did the mechanic forget to set the gap, or set it to an improper gap? that simple problem could be the cause of everything!
 
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ach, and again another thing, im dumb today. u may have a totally shot cap, rotor, and coil too. if it wasnt replaced at all, and on the coil if u have higher mileage.
 

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Yeah, it sure looks like a fuel pressure regulator to the injectors, with a run-off line to me.
If you trust your mechanic, I'd say replace it as advised.
It could certainly be causing the problems you describe, especially if corroded (certain alloys like to do that...some will even desintegrate to the consistency of paper).

But I'm still getting to know these motors, myself. Wait for an expert on them for surety, or try a second mechanic's opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Just got the valve adjustment same time with tune up. Car has just 60,000kms on it. Distributor car was replaced too.
Might have to check the filter on the tank..

Not really sure if fuel regulator thing is the part to change Cause when i first brought it in, i had no problems starting it..Have to check on the coil too.. Might need to have it checked by another mechanic see what he says..
 

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interesting. with those low miles around 35, theres NO way that the regulator is bad. a strong possibility, since u say it started after u had the work done would be that the mechanic adjusted the valves WRONG. this could be since US mechanics only would have the US Spec 280ce model, not a euro 230ce or 250ce, the tolerences are DEFINATELY Different, and if adjusted to the wrong clearence, this would caus ALL ur problems, since the valves vent all ur compression out since the are opening and closing at the wrong time. also have ur ignition timing checked, but our strong feelings are now that the mechanic set the valves to the wrong clearance. with such low miles ur Bosch coil is good, they dont act up until at least 160 tkm, even then they're usually good.
too bad ur probably super far from OK City, otherwise id say to swing by and let us have a look, sounds like a simple problem. lemme know what happens.

jmd
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I'll have it checked with a different mechanic or have it adjusted again. See what happens.... Pic attached is nose to nose with my dad's 115 [:D]
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks, been trying to keep it as clean as possible....[:D]
 

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