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1990 Mercedes-Benz 420 SEL(RIP),1997 Mercedes-Benz E420
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Discussion Starter #1
I've tried Soooo many times to get it off, and believe me i even stood on the wrench that i was using trying to get it free, but not even a budge. it is the rear passenger side tire. And not moving an inch. what do i do. Help please!! i dont get to drive it, the tire is completely flat.
 

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1987 420SEL
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1,133 Posts
Impact gun maybe? If you could find someone with one and a small portable compressor or an air tank.

Try an energetic squirt of penetrating oil into the lug recess to allow the oil to seep into the threads of the bolt, and then take a large johnson bar with 4ft of black pipe over the handle- steadily turn.

If everything one can possibly think of fails, there's always the extreme remedy of centre punching the bolt head, drilling a 1/8" hole STRAIGHT thru, and then trying a screw extractor. When that fails, drilling the bolt out may be the only fix.
 

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2009 SL65, 1998 CL600 (sold), 1989 560SEL (sold)
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Is it an original long bolt or the replacment shorter type? The long bolts reach to the outer edge of the wheel. If its a long bolt be very carefull. They are easy to break, and once broken they're pretty much impossible to get out. Come to think of it, if the short bolt breaks you've probably got just as much of a mess because of the flanged seat on the bolt. But the short bolts don't break as easy. If the bolt breaks than you will most likely have to destroy the wheel to get it off. There isn't any pratical way to drill out the flange on the bolt that holds the wheel on. You'll have to drill into part of the wheel.

I would think you will have better luck with an impact gun than a long breaker bar. But don't hold the gun on the bolt for more than a few seconds. Give it short blips at full power. Sometimes giving it a blip in the clockwise direction first helps break the rust.

Search this forum. This is a common problem.
 

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Mercedes
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If you feel that you can't get it off yourself, let a pro do it. Two years ago, one of the lugs on my 190 was very stubborn. After 5 minutes of pulling and yanking, my friend came in and he stepped on the wrench putting his body weight on it. It caused the head of the lug to snap right off. :rolleyes: Had to take it to a pro to get whats left out of the hub. Wish I just took it to a pro in the first place with such a stubborn bolt.
 

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Mercedes 300 SEL 1991, 175K, 3.0L
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i've used a blow torch before to get a rusted bolt free,

heating it up and cooling it down must crack the corrosion holding it fast.

Not sure if its appropriate here though alomst certainly mess up the laquer on the wheel, and with there being so much metal acting as a heat sink it would take ages to get it hot enough.

just a thought.
 

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500SE AMG, E350 4matic, GL 450
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Use PB blaster. Let it soak in. Get a long metal pole-one that the rachet handle can fit into. It should come right off. I saved a 5 foot section that I got at Lowes for this.Harbor Freight also has breaker bars-2 or 2.5 ft that can help. They are usually $10 or so. Too bad you don't have an impact gun.
 

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I've tried Soooo many times to get it off, and believe me i even stood on the wrench that i was using trying to get it free, but not even a budge. it is the rear passenger side tire. And not moving an inch. what do i do. Help please!! i dont get to drive it, the tire is completely flat.
If all else fail, you can consider using a nut-cracker, if it is possible to fit one on. And if the bolt/stud is damaged in the process, you would have to get it replace, but that should not be too expensive.
 

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2009 SL65, 1998 CL600 (sold), 1989 560SEL (sold)
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403 Posts
If all else fail, you can consider using a nut-cracker, if it is possible to fit one on. And if the bolt/stud is damaged in the process, you would have to get it replace, but that should not be too expensive.
The w126 uses bolts to fasten the wheel. Not nuts. Unless you are talking about something entirely different, in which case I'm not sure how self mutilation is going to help the problem.
 

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1990 Mercedes-Benz 420 SEL(RIP),1997 Mercedes-Benz E420
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Discussion Starter #12
Okay i went to my local hardware store and they dont have this PB Blaster what is the next best thing.
 

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Two '87 570SECs, one '87 560SEL
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If it was mine, I'd take to the corner gas station and give them a ten spot to have them put their BIG impact gun on that bolt. Tighten first, then loosen. There are some 3/4" guns out there that will provide more torque than you can. It's the jarring from the gun that will do the most to get it out.

Just make sure they have a good/new 17mm socket.
 

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2005 SLK350, 91 300SL with Pano Top, 04 S500, 2015 Tesla Model S
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I had last year a similar situation. Bolts were so tight that even impact guns could not get them off or broke the long bolts. This was all due to some service center idiot tightening them with his impact gun on max torque. Out of 20 bolts, 8 sheared off. Only solution was to "core" them out with a 29mm metal hole saw bit. Needless to say, all rims were destroyed.
 

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1987 420SEL
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I'm going to have to respectfully disagree with any type of "destroy the wheel" theory.

There is no reason, not in 100million years ever, never, ever to even think about dreaming of considering destroying a wheel in the case of the lug bolt not coming off.

Centre punch, drill 1/2" into the head with a 1/8" drill, remove. Drill to the same depth with a 1/4", remove. Drill to the same depth with a 3/8". Remove. Drill to the same depth with a 1/2" etc, etc, until the head of the bolt is no longer existant. Worst case scenario, even if the drill is not square in all directions, you're only going to the depth of the shoulder on the head of the bolt, therefore not running a risk of breaking into the hub flange or wheel itself.
 

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2009 SL65, 1998 CL600 (sold), 1989 560SEL (sold)
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Okay i went to my local hardware store and they dont have this PB Blaster what is the next best thing.
I really not sure how everyone is expecting you to get any oil on the threads. I don't think the threads are exposed. Certainly not from the front. From the rear I would think the dust shield and parking brake block access to the threads.
 

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1987 420SEL
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The threads are like 1" away from any hope of receiving any type of lubrication from a shot of penetrating oil, yes, but the goal here was to attempt to allow the oil to 'creep' between the contact surface of the bolt head and the wheel counterbore, which is where a good portion of the friction that's holding the bolt in is located.

Any reduction in friction here and it may have been/be enough to crack the bolt free.
 

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1965 220S, 1999 Volvo V70 (wagon), 2006 Ford Crown Vic Police Interceptor, 72 350SL 4 Speed
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I've had to stand on my breaker bar, usually 18", or add a short section of pipe on the end, stand on the end and bounce up and down. The bolt will groan and creak, but it will loosen. Don't jump on the end of the bar but bounce up and down. If the bolt breaks, you will have to drill out the remaining section of the bolt until the conical section is gone or can be removed. Then the wheel can be removed and the remaining bolt section heated and removed using an extractor or vice grips or some other method.

When I was overhauling my front end, the lower control arm camber adjustment bolt was so tight I had to use the breaker bar and pipe combo. It finally loosened. I weigh 200 lbs so a 2' lever would make 400 ft-lbs. Way too tight.

You can't use PBlaster on the threads because the wheel bolts have a conical raised section on the shaft to center the bolt in the wheel. If you can't loosen it, you can always call the place that seriously overtightened the bolt and talk to them. Approach them rationally and in a calm manner and don't start yelling. If then doesn't work, the stub axle will have to come out.

That's a big job, loosen the brake caliper, remove the half shaft, undo the locking 'nut' which takes a special tool, and the inner bearing, and the long bolt from the outside, extract the short shaft and then you can get to the back side of the bolt to either lube it of use a torch.

Someone posted directions on replacing the bearings, so the procedure is the same.

MercedesShopWiki: Replacing the Rear Wheel Bearings
 

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1990 Mercedes-Benz 420 SEL(RIP),1997 Mercedes-Benz E420
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Discussion Starter #19
I WAS ABLE TO GET IT OFF!!!! With little bit of a time i heard a crack i thought i lost the grove on the top but i kept going and it was able to come out, I loaded it with lots and lots of grease it was some rust i found on the inside. THANKS TO YOU ALL FOR ALL YOUR HELP IT IS VERY MUCH APPRECIATED.
 

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1965 220S, 1999 Volvo V70 (wagon), 2006 Ford Crown Vic Police Interceptor, 72 350SL 4 Speed
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I'm glad you got it off but you only need a small amount of oil or grease on the threads. Lots and lots of grease will work it's way to your parking brake, which is inside the top hat portion of the brake disc. Please remove as much of the grease as possible. A small amount of antisieze would work too.
 
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