Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

4281 - 4300 of 4329 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
298 Posts
1993 300CE- replaced battery, plugs, wires, coils and the OVP relay. Unfortunately, some ham-handed previous mechanic that worked with my step-father stripped out three of the six bolt holes holding the cover to the coils/heads. Had anyone had success with heli-coils or keen-certs in this application?
Thanks, Earl
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
162 Posts
Received most of the parts for the Getrag conversion, Billet flywheel, LUK clutch, new pedal rubbers etc. Still looking for 16v shift rods and a clutch fork.
Also picked up some new shoes for her a couple of months ago. Plans are to strip the purple and paint Silver/Grey, although the Purple goes alright with the 009, more than I expected. New wheels really show just how high factory suspension is though....
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Received most of the parts for the Getrag conversion, Billet flywheel, LUK clutch, new pedal rubbers etc. Still looking for 16v shift rods and a clutch fork.
Also picked up some new shoes for her a couple of months ago. Plans are to strip the purple and paint Silver/Grey, although the Purple goes alright with the 009, more than I expected. New wheels really show just how high factory suspension is though....
Those rims are gorgeous! Exactly what I want on my car.

I tore apart my door panel to try to access the window regulator. Me being new to W124s, it took a minute. Tonight I'll check for broken wires, and if that's not the issue then I'll unbolt the regulator and prop the window up, since it's supposed to rain.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
Transmission fluid change failure this weekend.

A lot went well this weekend. Put in a new belt tensioner damper that was rattling. Two new trans coolant lines, new drive belt. There was definitely a learning curve ((curse)) involved as it took me probably 3x linger than it should. At dusk I was buttoning up the trans pan after successfully draining both pan, torque converter, etc. cleaned out the pan nice and tidy. Started to refill, and after 4 quarts began to hear it come out the bottom. Like EVERYWHERE around the gasket. So I caught as much as I could. Cheese cloth strained it. Pulled pan back off and checked fitment. All looked well! .....sooooo I buttoned it up again , repoured new fluid and....out it came again!!!! So I think I’m over tightening the bolts. Anyone else have this happen? Frustrating,..... waiting for more fluid from Amazon now.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,120 Posts
Transmission fluid change failure this weekend.

A lot went well this weekend. Put in a new belt tensioner damper that was rattling. Two new trans coolant lines, new drive belt. There was definitely a learning curve ((curse)) involved as it took me probably 3x linger than it should. At dusk I was buttoning up the trans pan after successfully draining both pan, torque converter, etc. cleaned out the pan nice and tidy. Started to refill, and after 4 quarts began to hear it come out the bottom. Like EVERYWHERE around the gasket. So I caught as much as I could. Cheese cloth strained it. Pulled pan back off and checked fitment. All looked well! .....sooooo I buttoned it up again , repoured new fluid and....out it came again!!!! So I think I’m over tightening the bolts. Anyone else have this happen? Frustrating,..... waiting for more fluid from Amazon now.
Only OE gasket for this job. It could be that your pan is warped. I have to use hylomar gasket sealer because my pan is warped. Check the factory torque spec for the pan bolts, as it's not much.

Kevin
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
Transmission fluid change failure this weekend.

A lot went well this weekend. Put in a new belt tensioner damper that was rattling. Two new trans coolant lines, new drive belt. There was definitely a learning curve ((curse)) involved as it took me probably 3x linger than it should. At dusk I was buttoning up the trans pan after successfully draining both pan, torque converter, etc. cleaned out the pan nice and tidy. Started to refill, and after 4 quarts began to hear it come out the bottom. Like EVERYWHERE around the gasket. So I caught as much as I could. Cheese cloth strained it. Pulled pan back off and checked fitment. All looked well! .....sooooo I buttoned it up again , repoured new fluid and....out it came again!!!! So I think I’m over tightening the bolts. Anyone else have this happen? Frustrating,..... waiting for more fluid from Amazon now.
Only OE gasket for this job. It could be that your pan is warped. I have to use hylomar gasket sealer because my pan is warped. Check the factory torque spec for the pan bolts, as it's not much.

Kevin
Ok thanks. Lesson learned. I THOUGHT those bolts came off awfully easy. Turns out there was a reason. 🤨
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,236 Posts
Replaced my coolant overflow tank, finally. Now I can see the coolant level without taking the cap off and shining a flashlight in...haha!

Also, if anyone is interested, the 124 500 184 9 tanks are no longer available, so I ordered a 124 500 134 9 tank. The 124 500 134 9 tank is almost exactly the same. The only difference I could find is that the 184 tank has a straight nub at the bottom that goes into the rubber grommet. The 134 tank has a nub with a bit of a hook at the end. Went in fine and didn't break the nub off.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
402 Posts
my E420 got some care this weekend.
(1) I had some tire wear on the rear inside. It was substantial. to remedy, I ordered parts and then assembled adjustable camber arms (ordered from a website listed here on the forum). One big difference was that the bushings were meant for offroad and were very very stiff. but I found polyurethane (nice and red in color) that fit and used those. they are closer to rubber in characteristics by comparison. Also, I put high quality polyurethane grease liberally in the assembly. results are quiet and smooth ride.
(2) I replaced a failing regulator on the drivers door. IMPORTANT: The instructions call for removing rivets from the "sound system" speaker mounting. THIS SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM ALL INSTRUCTIONS. The SIMPLE way to do this is to unbolt the motor while it is inside the door. at that point the regulator hardware OR the motor can be removed, depending on your repair needs - and that's without removing the speaker mount. Next, your put the motor and/ or hardware back inside the door and assemble it inside the door. There is substantially ample room to do this inside the door. This simplifies the repair 10 fold. also, I used an exterior (weatherproof) grease on every moving part. I put thin layers in places where there is contacting rotating brackets and heavy on the tracks. It went really well and the window works smoothly.
(3) As much as I want to keep the car as original as possible, I left the farm this weekend. I located a pair of rear lights and added a several strings LEDS. I just grew tired of the small square tail light lenses (when lit) compared to the plethora of modern taillights you see today. It took about 4 evenings to build. I added LEDS for the taillight, which then brightens when the brakes are activated. Also, I added LED strips to the turn signals. I did leave the bulbs active although it looks good with or without the original bulbs. I attached a photo, but thanks to Samsung note, it shows the individual LEDs when they are actually fully diffused and don't appear as individual light sources..to keep the heat in check, I built a small box that houses the resistors and diodes. I mounted a very small, but effective, CPU fan that runs whenever the car is running to thwart any heat buildup.. actually I love the mod. My alterations to date are now the keyless entry (totally invisible) and now these LEDs (highly visible).
(4) changed transmission fluid and filter.

the "E" is happier than ever
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
I’m ready to take the plunge. I’ve taken all the usual beginner steps. From from lurking for a while, then buying a 93’ 2.8L 300e M104, to searching endless topics and DIY’s. This weekend the car gets the windshield pulled to correct a poorly installed windshield from PO, rust repairs on the same and roof painted ( wish I could have whole car done but $$$)

The real investment starts when I consider the suspension. I’m planning on total rebuild of front and rear including sub frame mounts, rear control arm bushings, shocks/struts... the works. I know I’ll have way more invested than it’s worth but I’m enjoying learning about the car. Suspension rebuild will begin in June.

I’ve gone through all the fluids so far. Upper wire harness already replaced. Needs lower harness done. The ETA looks to be rebuilt (factory) and it runs great. Still have lots of mechanical/ electrical to inspect and sagging roof liner to fix. Plenty of jobs for the coming year. Wish me luck. Though I’ve combed all the DIY’s on suspension, Any advice is appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Yesterday - front pads and rotors, replaced all wires in throttle body loom, today just need to put the body back together, assemble the plug and put it back on the engine.
 

·
Outstanding Contributor
Joined
·
3,987 Posts
Yesterday - front pads and rotors, replaced all wires in throttle body loom, today just need to put the body back together, assemble the plug and put it back on the engine.
I'd like to hear more about replacing those wires in the loom. My ETA is acting up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,205 Posts
Long time haven't been here... miss the old good days when i was more active and learned something new every single day..

any ways, I have just painted my E220 and replaced the interior with a black leather one, since i had an old pre-facelift seats and door trim that the previous owner put..

Here's some pictures after the weekedn car wash :angel


IMG_20190518_193251.jpg
IMG_20190518_193301.jpg
IMG_20190518_193308.jpg
IMG_20190518_193314.jpg
 

·
W124 Moderator
Joined
·
12,607 Posts
Long time haven't been here... miss the old good days when i was more active and learned something new every single day..



any ways, I have just painted my E220 and replaced the interior with a black leather one, since i had an old pre-facelift seats and door trim that the previous owner put..



Here's some pictures after the weekedn car wash :angel





View attachment 2514370

View attachment 2514372

View attachment 2514374

View attachment 2514376
Good job! There's no reason to be a stranger...

Jayare

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
My ABS light had twice decided to stay on after starting, and after a little research (my OVP is new) I decided to inspect my front abs sensors. OMG , its no wonder the warning light was staying on. Attached is a photo of the build-up, so they both were cleaned and refitted. So far so good.
Also gave the car a wash after this to complete the weekend attention.
Cheers
Jase
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,820 Posts
Well, I wieghed out my options, put down my own wrench, and went with, "lets get this done right, and the first time. So, I took the old girl down to Autobahn Motors in Louisville, KY for;

NO START
113 PASSENGER SIDE TIE ROD
113 OIL SERVICE
113 REPLACED WATER PUMP, DRIVE BELT AND TENSIONER
113 DIAGNOSTIC TIME- FOUND THAT THERE WAS A GROUNDING
ISSUE WITH THE BATTERY DUE TO DIRTY CONTACTS.
113 ADJUST DRIVER SIDE WHEEL BEARING AND REPLACE MISSING
CAP
LOCKING CAP
Belt Tentioner
ZXG051 ANTIF/COOLANT
KY Sales Tax 6.00% 50.91

$899.39

Ouch. But after owning two W140's, not so much. Runs and drives like a dream. Next, two new rear meats.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,008 Posts
First I replaced the pins holding front brake pads to the caliper. It had to be done - just look at the condition of the old ones. Still - they are ~12 USD each!

Then I thought to myself: It's still early, perhaps I'll get the cell phone harness out... That was not the best of my ideas...
 

Attachments

4281 - 4300 of 4329 Posts
Top