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92 500SL- Front/Rear ALPs LAZER :: Front/Rear/Arrows RADENSO RC-M REMOTE
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315 Posts
The question is more appropriately WHAT haven't I done to it LOL

Blue LED mod
Lazer Interceptor install grill and inside tailights
Valentine One mounted to top and colored LED CD inside Dash gauges
K40 Front Tag Lazer diffuser
Subs
HID Lights and Fog/Road
Visors
AMG pedals
Every LAST BLASTED hydraulic Top cyclinder pun intended :D

Hopefully 3rd rear seat conversion if it exists !

Thats it for now - Winters coming - No more play :crybaby2:
 

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I just put a new radio in but after I put the faceplate trim piece on I could still see a tiny sliver of metal between the top of the trim and the wood on the console. A casual observer probably wouldn't notice it but I could, and that's all that mattered. So today I took a piece of black electrical tape and folded it over and over to make a tiny shim. I wedged it between the top of the radio and the bottom of the trim piece. No more metal :)
 

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Premium Member
'95 SL 500
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215 Posts
I just put a new radio in but after I put the faceplate trim piece on I could still see a tiny sliver of metal between the top of the trim and the wood on the console. A casual observer probably wouldn't notice it but I could, and that's all that mattered. So today I took a piece of black electrical tape and folded it over and over to make a tiny shim. I wedged it between the top of the radio and the bottom of the trim piece. No more metal :)
Now that's thinking with your dipstick, Jimmy!
 

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Y2K SL500 Silver
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8,660 Posts
Discussion Starter #47
M113.961 Mass Air Flow sensor R&R

My car wasn't exhibiting any problems at 40K miles but I decided to replace the BOSCH Mass Air Flow sensor for $95.00 . Man what a performance difference. I'm so glad I did this simple 30 minute service.

If you decide to buy a MAF meter or sensor on the internet please do not buy anything other than BOSCH. There are many eBay sites that use BOSCH and MB part numbers and they make it sound like your getting BOSCH put in truth many are aftermarket knock off's so Buyer Beware.

In my case a new BOSCH MAF meter is currently $155 w/ free ship from AutohausAZ.com or an eBay BOSCH MAF sensor is $95.00 w/ free ship but I had to buy a $10.00 set of 5 point Torx bits for a total of $105.00. So I ended up with a set of Torx bits.

Many will argue to go with the complete BOSCH MAF meter and I would have to agree if the extra $50.00 is not an issue.

BTW, if you replace only the sensor you will need a 5 point T25 Torx tool.

Please see the attached PDF's
 

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MB SL600, MB 380SE, Suzuki Grand Vitara, 38' Chris-Craft, Volvo V70XC, and my own two feet...
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Hmmm...what did I do to my roadster today?

I called the shop to see if I will get it back this week or not (again).

At least I got a couple random pictures of it to keep me company. Seems like every time it goes in for something, it takes 3 months to get it back. I mean literally 3 months. This has gone for every good indy around here I've used. Dealer has it back in a day, but with half-done and sloppy work, and usually small piles of leftover screws and such sitting on the floorboards. So I take the wait over that, any day.

:crybaby2:

Hope everyone's enjoying their convertibles, it's the best time of year for it.
 

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Y2K SL500 Silver
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Discussion Starter #49
Hmmm...what did I do to my roadster today?

I called the shop to see if I will get it back this week or not (again).

At least I got a couple random pictures of it to keep me company. Seems like every time it goes in for something, it takes 3 months to get it back. I mean literally 3 months.
Chris,

What are you having your Indy take care of that takes sooooo long? Is this the ADS?
 

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MB SL600, MB 380SE, Suzuki Grand Vitara, 38' Chris-Craft, Volvo V70XC, and my own two feet...
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Chris,

What are you having your Indy take care of that takes sooooo long? Is this the ADS?
ADS got knocked out in the first week. They started digging into that problem again after I kept complaining about it, and the issues with the aerated fluid were discovered, which turned out to be the problem. A flush, refill, rodeo, and bleeding later it's back to normal. I test drove it when I was on my way to Tampa and had to go through Gville anyway, and that part is back to normal.

The a/c is the real issue. About 2 years ago, the car lost its refrigerant charge, which turned out to be a leaking line by the receiver/drier. The $tealer replaced it, along with a bunch of miscellaneous seals, the r/d itself, and the expansion valve, recharged the system and told me it was ready for pickup. I got there and turned right around and went back and left it again because it wasn't right.

After 5 visits where they told me it was all normal, I gave up. Symptom is that the car cools fine when moving, but as soon as you come to idle it loses all cooling capacity. I mean ALL. I'm talking vent temps in the mid/high 60's on an 80 degree day, so you can imagine what hell summer is like, especially with that pano top. And it never used to be that way.

So they've been (unsuccessfully) trying to diagnose the problem. To date, the car has had 2 new compressors, 2 new expansion valves, 2 new receiver driers, a new condenser, a new viscous fan clutch, and a bunch of stuff I'm forgetting. This has all been replaced with no real improvement to the original problem. The electric fans are engaging properly at the correct speeds, and are running in the proper direction. The heater core's valve operates properly, as does the vacuum flap for the recirculate function. They have removed the housing and parts in front of the evaporator, and cleaned it with evap cleaning solvent and a brush, and said it wasn't dirty to begin with.

But I'm still getting vent temps in the high 60's at idle, and on days that aren't that hot. Rev the motor to 1500 rpm, and it cools off. If the car is moving at 15mph or more, even if the engine is idling, then it cools off. But at idle (where you spend half your time, b/c of traffic) I have almost zero air conditioning. And sometimes I hear a whistling/hissing in the refrigerant lines that never used to be there before, even though the car has a full charge.

As to the refrigerant pressures, they are slightly "off" (too high on the low side, and too low on the high side) indicating some kind of problem, but nobody can figure out what the problem actually is. They have shot compressed nitrogen through it, pulled hard vacuums, and run liquid solvent flushes through the system in both directions, with nothing coming out that would indicate a problem, and no readily apparent obstructions. They even bought a third expansion valve, which the shop owner personally deconstructed and modified so that it was adjustable, reinstalled it, and tried getting the pressures into spec that way.

But. It. Still. Doesn't. [email protected]#$%&*. Work.

It was never like this before that dealer visit, whatever they did started this problem. At this point, I'm stumped, the shop is stumped, and it still doesn't work right. And FWIW, it takes a lot to stump this particular shop. They've seen everything, and are some of the best in the business.

But now we're back to that circular conversation you get into when they run out of ideas, about how it's "normal" and the a/c system is just a 'weak design.' Except it wasn't. It used to freeze my butt off, at idle or at any other speed. Now it doesn't. I am going to see my parents soon, and will take a video for Steve of my Dad's car (same a/c system) for comparison. Leave it parked in the sun for an hour, come back and start it up, and you've still got vent temps in the 40's within a minute or two. Which is how mine used to be.

Start mine up after sitting in the sun for 20 minutes, and you can come back an hour later and the cabin will be no cooler than when you left it. I am to the point now where I'm exasperated with it. But winter is coming, and I won't see truly hot weather again until next April or so, which buys me some time before I have to worry about it again.

I guess my next option is dropping another $1150 on THIRD compressor, this time a bigger W140 S600 model (same mounting points, etc., but has larger capacity) and install that together with changing the refrigerant over to Duracool at the same time. That probably won't work either, nothing else has.

Anybody got any ideas?
 

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Y2K SL500 Silver
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Discussion Starter #51

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Departed 1998 SL500 (and the Pano is in Bogota)
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11,115 Posts
Chris, does you warranty cover this kind of work done by IND of your choice ?
 

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MB SL600, MB 380SE, Suzuki Grand Vitara, 38' Chris-Craft, Volvo V70XC, and my own two feet...
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Chris, does you warranty cover this kind of work done by IND of your choice ?
Yeah, they've covered an insane amount of stuff this visit, including all the a/c stuff.

Before I bought the warranty, though, I'd already bought two compressors. Other people thought they were the problem, but they weren't. So now I have $2k worth of compressors sitting in my storage room. Anyone want them? Any takers? OEM. I'd take $300'ish. Way past the return deadlines, I'm stuck with 'em now.

But yeah, the warranty has been fantastic. And yes you can go to indys.
 

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MB SL600, MB 380SE, Suzuki Grand Vitara, 38' Chris-Craft, Volvo V70XC, and my own two feet...
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FWIW, I decided to take some baseline readings back on 8/05/07 of my Climate Control just in case I had problems like yourself and you can find them at http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129-sl-class/1299042-center-air-vents-climate-control-diagnostics.html#post2488513

If you would like me to take these readings now that it's been two years I would be glad to if you think it would help.
I just emailed those to Steve Brotherton. What a stroke of luck.

When I stopped through his shop on that Tampa trip, I started my car up and the ambient temp was 80F, one degree difference from when you took your readings. He sat with me and watched it, and after leaving it run for several minutes (10+), my vent temps only got down to a pathetic 67F. To get it any colder, you had to rev the motor or drive around.

Meanwhile, the evap temps on your car, under the same conditions and also at idle, are well into the 40F's. This proves what I've been telling them. Instead of the boy who cried wolf too much, I think I've cried "It's broken" too much. But it really IS, as your car shows. And the A/C systems are virtually identical. Same sized compressors, and ditto with the rest of it.

Something's definitely still wrong.
 

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Mercedes Benz S350(2003) - 600SL(1993)
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160 Posts
Today I upgrade my dashboard gauge, & I install the burlwood & the silver gauge rings
& this how it use to be :



& this is the new look...

 

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2001 SL500 - Black Sport (SOLD). 2002 SL500 (SOLD).
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382 Posts
Today I placed an ad in the Auto Trader. I'm looking at Renntech E55's.
 

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Greek God of the R129
SL500-500SEL-190E
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Chris, I suspect that something went in the lines when they opened it up, and it is wedged in the system.
A wild guess is, that it is wedged in one of the evaporator feed lines.
So, as you rev up more pressure goes in the other feed lines by passing the stoppage.

Does it make sense?
If you remember I was against the compressor replacement.

It is an expensive gamble, maybe I should keep my mouth shut.
But you asked for ideas.

Regards.
aam.
 

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'96 SL500, Triple Black
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1,650 Posts
Today: Finally convinced myself to tackle the soft top rear locking problem. Searched here and looked simple enough. Cycled the top to see which rear was not locking and it worked, flawlessly ... FIVE times haha. So problem solved. Easy fix ... :cool:
 

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Fixed the mirror wobble that showed up (sooo easy; I wish I had known a couple of months ago.) and cleaned the door speaker covers.

Next Friday, Saturday, and Sunday the California Mille Autunno Fall Colors Motoring Tour!
 

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Premium Member
'95 SL 500
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215 Posts
What did I do today - replace bulbs

Replaced bulbs in the instrument cluster. Now I have a clear outside temp readout. Replaced bulb in climate control temp windows. now I know where my heat/AC is set? :D

Next I have to replace shift indicator bulb. Anybody know how to do that?
 
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