Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

981 - 1000 of 1023 Posts

·
Registered
'86 W123 200, OM617 non-turbo, bastard 5-speed; '95 W202 C250 Diesel, OM605 non-turbo, 5-spd man
Joined
·
4,273 Posts
So, I installed the Norma clamps on Saturday, only to discover on Sunday that the leak has persisted. I tried to tighten the clamp a bit more, but I doubt it will work.
It didn't work. The leak may be smaller, but it's still a leak:mad:
 

·
Registered
2000 W202 Mercedes-Benz C250 Turbodiesel
Joined
·
1,445 Posts
Which fuel lines exactly? How old are the fuel lines? It could be that they've turned rock-hard over time and not creating a tight seal anymore.
 

·
Registered
'86 W123 200, OM617 non-turbo, bastard 5-speed; '95 W202 C250 Diesel, OM605 non-turbo, 5-spd man
Joined
·
4,273 Posts
Where the fuel exits the tank and enters the electric fuel pump. The diesels don't have electric fuel pumps there, and the diesel tank isn't the same as the petrol tank so the fittings are different. And, no, I used brand new hoses to connect the fuel tank to the brand new pre-filter and the pre-filter to the electric fuel pump.

Maybe I should just buy a second-hand petrol tank and be done with it. Then I can use the original installation method to connect the fuel pump to the tank, using the strainer that the tank provides for. But I've read that removing the tank means pretty much removing the entire rear driveline and subframe...:confused: Also, I don't know what other differences there may be between the two tanks - I'm cautiously guessing none because the W123 diesel tank and petrol tank are identical, save for the interchangeable screw-in strainer; but I've been wrong before.
 

·
Registered
'86 W123 200, OM617 non-turbo, bastard 5-speed; '95 W202 C250 Diesel, OM605 non-turbo, 5-spd man
Joined
·
4,273 Posts
I took her in to have the clutch and brake systems pressure tested and serviced. I asked that they test and clean the ABS sensors, drain and replace all the brake fluid including the brakes, and let me know if parts need to be ordered.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
2,829 Posts
I got use of a friends lift at his shop this morning. Put up the w202 and swapped out the rear shock pads (#2s) for #3s.
25mins later, done. :)
Man, I have to get a one of these lifts, soooo invaluable. For the time, his will do (when I can access it).

A few months ago, installed eibach lowering springs with #2 pads on all 4 corners (pad#s based on some comments from other members posts)

For my situation,
#2s in front provided a perfect ride height, but 2#s in the rear were just a tad too low for my liking. No finger room at the top of the wheel well.
Drove around town with the #2s to get the feel and didnt feel comfortable on the rear ride height - camber was a tad too much also (just eyeballing it)

Just so you all know, I think it's somewhat of a 'hit and miss' with other people's rides (230Ks) when reading what they installed for pad #s, etc. I believe each vehicle reacts somewhat differently when swapping out shocks, springs and pads to get the desired ride height.

Seeing indentical MLs with the same wheels, similar and identical profile tires and even the ML55s, I could see ride heights we pretty much all-over the map.

So with the #3s at the rear and #2s up front, the ride height is now much more in tune with "see and feel". On 16s, it's good. Camber looks ok, but I'll check that later.

I think swapping over to a set of 17s or 18s that I have (monoblock IIs staggered) will also work nicely. I can trial those later.
The 16s; I can throw a set of winter tires on them for the winter, and re-purpose the old steel rims as mobile fence posting anchors on the acreage.
I'll keep those fugly wheel covers as a reminder of the bad designer MB used for this model back then.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
'86 W123 200, OM617 non-turbo, bastard 5-speed; '95 W202 C250 Diesel, OM605 non-turbo, 5-spd man
Joined
·
4,273 Posts
I was right!

The service centre performed a pressure test on all the hydraulics and confirmed that the clutch master cylinder was faulty. They replaced it with the Bosch unit I supplied, and the clutch is working as it should.

I was just about to solve the fuel leak by purchasing and installing a second-hand petrol tank when I noticed some new clunks from somewhere at the rear of the car. Oh, and it appears that my 5-year old engine mounts may need to be replaced as well...
 

·
Registered
2000 W202 Mercedes-Benz C250 Turbodiesel
Joined
·
1,445 Posts
Your car sure is testing your patience.

I'm in the process of rebuilding my engine, installing Recaro seats and a compound turbo setup :D
 

·
Registered
'86 W123 200, OM617 non-turbo, bastard 5-speed; '95 W202 C250 Diesel, OM605 non-turbo, 5-spd man
Joined
·
4,273 Posts
A Mercedes diesel engine requiring a rebuild? Blasphemy! Travesty! Anarchy!
 

·
Registered
2000 W202 Mercedes-Benz C250 Turbodiesel
Joined
·
1,445 Posts
A Mercedes diesel engine requiring a rebuild? Blasphemy! Travesty! Anarchy!
I'm not having any performance issues (apart from rather excessive crankcase gases), but I performed a leakdown test last weekend. Two cylinders are in the region of 40% (and I can actually hear how the compressed air is leaking past the rings into the crankcase). Don't know if it's stuck rings, but I decided to do an engine rebuild in any case before the compound turbo project :devil
 

·
Registered
1996 C220 2007 ML320 CDI
Joined
·
1,830 Posts
I'm not having any performance issues (apart from rather excessive crankcase gases), but I performed a leakdown test last weekend. Two cylinders are in the region of 40% (and I can actually hear how the compressed air is leaking past the rings into the crankcase). Don't know if it's stuck rings, but I decided to do an engine rebuild in any case before the compound turbo project :devil
Makes sense, don't add boost if your pistons can't keep it in their pants
 

·
Registered
'86 W123 200, OM617 non-turbo, bastard 5-speed; '95 W202 C250 Diesel, OM605 non-turbo, 5-spd man
Joined
·
4,273 Posts
 

·
Registered
2000 W202 Mercedes-Benz C250 Turbodiesel
Joined
·
1,445 Posts
A weekend? Good luck with that ;) .

Still convinced there must be an easier solution for a (seemingly) simple fuel leak.
 

·
Registered
2000 W202 Mercedes-Benz C250 Turbodiesel
Joined
·
1,445 Posts
Sadly those cheap Audi S2 Recaro seats I bought a while ago were in a rear-end smash - the driver's seat base is badly and irreparably mangled (you can actually see how skew the seat appears in the photos on page 96).

I still want to install a nice set of Recaros in my car. So I managed to find a really nice set from an early 2000's Audi S4, with 12-way adjustable power control. I managed to design seat bracket that allow me to bolt the seats to the stock W202 seat sliders (these I still need to modify to accommodate the fore-aft power control mechanisms). The photos shown here are a first trial fit of the seat base. For a first attempt, my measurements of the bracket weren't too far off the mark, but I want the seat to be positioned a further 15mm towards the centre of the car (this will also allow more space between the B-pillar and the seat trim, as well as position the seat more centrally in terms of the steering wheel).

However, I had to ditch the control modules at the bottom of the driver's seat in light of the fact that these seats use the Audi's on-board computer system. Instead, I determined each switch position's relevant wire, which I will use to activate the coil of a high-current relay. However, in order to reverse the polarity of each seat motor, it will necessitate the use of two relays per motor direction, i.e. 24 relays per seat :eek . I managed to source a very nice 12-channel relay board, of which I will install two relay boards per seat. I just need to find a nice enclosure for them and mount them to the bottom of each seat.

I quickly assembled the driver's seat to feel how it sits inside the car. Really comfortable and supportive. Still waiting for the new brackets and then I need to do the final assembly and wiring.

I realise I'm treading a fine line between enhancements and rice-ifying my car :devil .













 

·
Registered
'86 W123 200, OM617 non-turbo, bastard 5-speed; '95 W202 C250 Diesel, OM605 non-turbo, 5-spd man
Joined
·
4,273 Posts
I didn't attempt to remove my diesel tank from my car yet, as there are too many things still to strip from the petrol tank I purchased. One fule sender was removed by the scrap yard, but the other one seems to be stuck in the tank - not good. Also, I need to see whether my diesel tank also has four hoses under the car like the petrol tank has. BTW, why do you need four hoses? There's an outlet, that goes to the engine; there's an inlet, that returns fuel from the engine; then what? Nitrousoxide-inator and flux core capacitinator?

I also see there was a fuel expansion tank available for the W202. If there's one thing I dislike about the W202, it's the small 62lt capacity - my W123 has similar fuel consumption (under sedate driving conditions) but it has a lofty 83lt tank! I can go 1000km between fill-ups without even trying! (I managed 1200km once, but only once...) Does anybody know what the expansion tank's capacity is? If it's 5lt, it's not worth the money.
 

·
Registered
'86 W123 200, OM617 non-turbo, bastard 5-speed; '95 W202 C250 Diesel, OM605 non-turbo, 5-spd man
Joined
·
4,273 Posts
Well, it's too early to declare the war over, but for now I've won the battle.

I seem to have finally - albeit possibly temporarily - stopped the leak under the fuel tank. I had to get rid of the 90° fuel filter with its 6mm fittings and fit a straight filter with 10mm fittings, but that seems to make it easier for the pump to draw in fuel without bubbles; it was quite a stretch expanding from a 6mm outlet to a 15mm inlet, it's far easier to expand from 10mm to 15mm. But the fuel hose just barely doesn't pinch due to the turn...

Mind you, swapping out tanks is not entirely off the cards yet. After all, the petrol tank features a 15mm outlet to the pump's 15mm inlet.

I have also replaced both the rear sway bar links. Only the left-hand one was broken, but they're so cheap and so flimsy that I decided not to risk replacing just the broken one.
 

·
Registered
1996 C220 2007 ML320 CDI
Joined
·
1,830 Posts
I have also replaced both the rear sway bar links. Only the left-hand one was broken, but they're so cheap and so flimsy that I decided not to risk replacing just the broken one.
I've bought metal sway bar end links for a W124, I haven't installed them yet but they only require minor trimming at the bottom end to make them fit. There's an old post somewhere of someone doing this swap, and apparently the handling became more crisp afterwards too.
 

·
Registered
'86 W123 200, OM617 non-turbo, bastard 5-speed; '95 W202 C250 Diesel, OM605 non-turbo, 5-spd man
Joined
·
4,273 Posts
Switching from metal links to plastic links on my W123 didn't really change the ride. But it sure changed the noise.

The plastic links simply last better than metal in contaminating areas. Yes, one was broken. But it was broken after 7 years in my ownership, so no complaints from me.
 

·
Registered
1996 C220 2007 ML320 CDI
Joined
·
1,830 Posts
Switching from metal links to plastic links on my W123 didn't really change the ride. But it sure changed the noise.

The plastic links simply last better than metal in contaminating areas. Yes, one was broken. But it was broken after 7 years in my ownership, so no complaints from me.
It probably has a more dramatic effect if you have a stiffer sway bar to begin with, like on an AMG for example. The rear sway bar on the C220 is honestly a little wimpy :D
 

·
Registered
'86 W123 200, OM617 non-turbo, bastard 5-speed; '95 W202 C250 Diesel, OM605 non-turbo, 5-spd man
Joined
·
4,273 Posts
Good thing I'm built for comfort rather than speed. just like my cars:wink

Also, it's been two weeks of no leaks. I'm loving this car again!
 
981 - 1000 of 1023 Posts
Top