Mercedes-Benz Forum banner
11921 - 11940 of 11962 Posts

·
Registered
'91 560SEC, '91 300SE (sold), '98 Yota, '02 S-10 Hauler
Joined
·
9,394 Posts
Not my doing or idea but it looks cool

The start
Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Hood


Bare chassis
Wheel Tire Vehicle Car Land vehicle


Getting there
Wheel Tire Vehicle Car Automotive tire


Almost
Tire Car Vehicle Plant Vehicle registration plate


Done
Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Automotive parking light
 
  • Wow
Reactions: 1783pictures

·
Registered
1985 MB 500sel (Euro)
Joined
·
917 Posts
Not my doing or idea but it looks cool
@wooky_chew_bacca What am I missing, unless you turned a white two door into a rusty fin-tail four door?

Meanwhile, messing around trying to fix my dodgy door lock vacuum pump, it went whir-thump and all four doors were firmly locked with the windows up. Heart leapt to throat. Fiddled with it some more (trunk was fortunately open) and nothing worked, began thinking about forcing backseat forward, breaking a window, calling the police or trying a coat hanger myself. Then the light went on. I have the crank for the sunroof, inserted same into fitting by the radio aerial, turned and turned (this may be the first time it has ever been used), pulled up step ladder, stuck hand in and voila I could pluck the lock button upward. Music up, lightning and thunder stopped, sun reappeared and all was right with the world.
 

·
Registered
1990 560SEC, 129,00 miles, in good shape, starting to do some small mods-steering wheel, exhaust
Joined
·
1,061 Posts

·
Registered
'91 560SEC, '91 300SE (sold), '98 Yota, '02 S-10 Hauler
Joined
·
9,394 Posts
@wooky_chew_bacca What am I missing, unless you turned a white two door into a rusty fin-tail four door?
My interior is Palomino, not grey

I found that on facebook, I don't have the awesome set of tools to do that but my son might have them, here's a shot of his frame off Caddy rebuild in progress

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Vehicle Motor vehicle
 
  • Like
Reactions: kevdupuis

·
Registered
1985 300 TD 1981 300 SD
Joined
·
643 Posts
My interior is Palomino, not grey

I found that on facebook, I don't have the awesome set of tools to do that but my son might have them, here's a shot of his frame off Caddy rebuild in progress

View attachment 2722797
Takes me back to the 34 Cadillac 355D Town Car I restored in the early 90's.
 

·
Registered
'91 560SEC, '91 300SE (sold), '98 Yota, '02 S-10 Hauler
Joined
·
9,394 Posts
Takes me back to the 34 Cadillac 355D Town Car I restored in the early 90's.
He sent me a pic of all the dried mud / dirt that had caught a ride over the years. If his Caddy was a local car here when bought new there weren't very many paved roads out here in the country, main highways yes, side roads not so much
 

·
Registered
560SEL 560SEC E320 Cab. MB Metris Van ML 320 ML320CDI/gone 300TD 300TE 300SDL, 300D, Unimog 406
Joined
·
2,594 Posts
Sad day. The 560SEL went into to Winter storage today. I'm driving the ML320 CDI for the Winter months and the Jeep Wrangler Rubicon for serious snowfalls. I really miss the 560SEL but I'd like it to stay nice for a couple more years as a daily driver and our Winter sucks here.
 

·
Registered
'91 560SEC, '91 300SE (sold), '98 Yota, '02 S-10 Hauler
Joined
·
9,394 Posts
Just finished the installation of the R/R SLS strut. I also pulled the left side to change the rubbers on the top. It was a while back that I bought a pair of rubbers, p/n 114 326 00 68, which I thought was supposed to be for the top, nope nope nope, turns out the are for the bottom side of the upper shaft of the struts. I did a search of the p/n and found some older threads about these apparently being an update / upgrade to help stop clunking in the rear and since I was changing the last strut . . . . . . . It's not leaking and the threads up top weren't stripped like the other one was, this one is a good candidate for an overhaul and a new boot on the bottom (if only they come out with some new ball joints for the bottom). A couple of drops of loktite on the 4 bottom bolts and a couple of drops on the two top lock nuts along with new coppers on the banjo and we are ready. Tomorrow after I get back from the Doctor I'll check for and seepage or leaks and do the bleeding of raising and lowering the back end with the RPMs up about 2K

Tire Wheel Hood Automotive tire Automotive lighting


I slid the old squashed looking lower rubber back on the old strut. The new ones are half again thicker than these, shouldn't be any more clunking coming from the back now

Blue Automotive exterior Bumper Gas Auto part


And just for the sake of it, a year or so ago when I replaced the leaky strut and the flat spheres

Gas Wood Auto part Metal Cylinder


And another shot of my wood blocks in use with the solid concrete cap blocks (NOT cinder blocks)

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive design Flooring
 
  • Like
Reactions: DrewPT

·
Registered
'86 W123 200, OM617 non-turbo, bastard 5-speed; '95 W202 C250 Diesel, OM605 non-turbo, 5-spd man
Joined
·
4,692 Posts
Last week I took my W126 to the MB dealership to have the newly installed-by-me front wheel bearings adjusted, and to replace the rear wheel bearings. Today I took her back there with the strange behaviour my car is suddenly exhibiting - the flickering "brakes worn" light and the not-gripping park brakes. The workshop manager and the workshop foreman both attended to the problem, and I let the foreman drive my vehicle on the highway. They both confirmed this shouldn't be happening. Even if it turns to be not all their fault, at least now a proper diagnosis is on the cards.
 
  • Like
Reactions: luckymike

·
Registered
1985 MB 500sel (Euro)
Joined
·
917 Posts
After my embarrassing fiasco of locking myself out of the car (see post #11923 above), I went ahead and finished the long languishing project of installing sound-deadening mats inside the doors, trunk, floor wells and under and behind the back seat. There are a number of good sound mats available. All my door cards were missing clips somewhere, but there were enough to make the fitting tight. It was finished off by applying Hush Mat Quiet tape to the underside of the door cards, with the advantage of closing the bottom really tight.

I am really pleased with the results. It is not as good as a new car, but it is noticeably better with road and outside noise very reduced and no creaks, except from the seat leather. The car actually feels much tighter and firmer. As I mentioned before, the outside noise and the inside creaks had crept up on me over time until one morning they could not be ignored.
Basically, an inexpensive and easy to do improvement.

Has anybody tried Boom Mat Spray? It has varying reviews, but I was thinking for the wheel wells. Now I am going to go out and sneak up on a Rolls Royce.
 

·
Registered
'86 W123 200, OM617 non-turbo, bastard 5-speed; '95 W202 C250 Diesel, OM605 non-turbo, 5-spd man
Joined
·
4,692 Posts
The OM606 is basically together, with only the water plumbing a point of contention. Also, I couldn't get the proper size fan belt (2080mm, without AC), so I had to buy one slightly shorter (2075mm) and longer (2087mm). I currently have the shorter one installed, and it appears OK. I have the proper size for running with AC, which will be installed in the car. I have bolted an empty transmission shell onto the back just to prevent stray hands and other objects from finding their way to the flywheel.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Asphalt Road surface Gas


Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tire Automotive design


I added the diesel filter, installed the oil filter and poured in 5 litres of MB 229.5 to check for initial leaks. I will fill it up with the remaining 2-3 lt before first start.

I am finding it difficult to obtain a capillary tube temperature gauge with an M14x1.5 thread...
 

·
Registered
'91 560SEC, '91 300SE (sold), '98 Yota, '02 S-10 Hauler
Joined
·
9,394 Posts
Well hell, While doing the raising and lowering of the SLS and filling the new strut with hydro-juice, one end of this gizmo lost it's ball. I had it disconnected for the up and downs. The plastic bushing on that end had been cracked and I was babying it best I could but all good things (I guess) must come to an end. One has already been ordered for replacement, funny though, when you don't need one it seems that EVERYONE has a few on hand but when you need one they've all been sold out. Geek had one

Tool Auto part Engineering Nickel Metal
 

·
Registered
1990 560SEC, 129,00 miles, in good shape, starting to do some small mods-steering wheel, exhaust
Joined
·
1,061 Posts
Well hell, While doing the raising and lowering of the SLS and filling the new strut with hydro-juice, one end of this gizmo lost it's ball. I had it disconnected for the up and downs. The plastic bushing on that end had been cracked and I was babying it best I could but all good things (I guess) must come to an end. One has already been ordered for replacement, funny though, when you don't need one it seems that EVERYONE has a few on hand but when you need one they've all been sold out. Geek had one

View attachment 2724022
Amazing how much the dam thing costs, had a WTH moment last year when I looked under the car and found 1/2 of the dam thing gone. Sometimes you just got to wonder how this s--t happens.
 

·
Moderator
1987 & 1991 C126
Joined
·
5,833 Posts
This will be tomorrow…..,,,,

The under hood rubber vacuum connectors are getting hardened, and so, suspect.

I’ve ordered replacements and these rubber elboare the first to arrive.

They ARE stepped sized so be aware…..
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exhaust Rim


Hand Snake Finger Reptile Thumb

111 078 05 81

M
 

·
Registered
'87 560 SEC, Pearl Grey/blue; 300,000+ mi; '07 CLS 550, Barolo/stone; 90,000+ mi
Joined
·
1,135 Posts
After my embarrassing fiasco of locking myself out of the car (see post #11923 above), I went ahead and finished the long languishing project of installing sound-deadening mats inside the doors, trunk, floor wells and under and behind the back seat. There are a number of good sound mats available. All my door cards were missing clips somewhere, but there were enough to make the fitting tight. It was finished off by applying Hush Mat Quiet tape to the underside of the door cards, with the advantage of closing the bottom really tight.

I am really pleased with the results. It is not as good as a new car, but it is noticeably better with road and outside noise very reduced and no creaks, except from the seat leather. The car actually feels much tighter and firmer. As I mentioned before, the outside noise and the inside creaks had crept up on me over time until one morning they could not be ignored.
Basically, an inexpensive and easy to do improvement.

Has anybody tried Boom Mat Spray? It has varying reviews, but I was thinking for the wheel wells. Now I am going to go out and sneak up on a Rolls Royce.
Did you apply the Quiet Tape to the bottom edge, or the inside where it fits to the door?
 

·
Registered
1985 MB 500sel (Euro)
Joined
·
917 Posts
Both, along the bottom edge of each door card, which is flush with the bottom of the door, on the seam between the door card and the bottom of the door, (with half on the door card and half on the bottom of the door, about 1/2" on either side, which also helped to tight seal bottom of door card). From your question, I wonder if SEC doors are different from SEL doors. Have never looked closely.
 

·
Registered
'86 W123 200, OM617 non-turbo, bastard 5-speed; '95 W202 C250 Diesel, OM605 non-turbo, 5-spd man
Joined
·
4,692 Posts
So, the full synthetic oil made the most expensive puddle that I've ever had on my workshop floor. But hey, that's why I did it. The crankshaft seals seem OK, as does the oil pan gasket. But the bloody oil cooler is leaking something awful. Now I have to either let the engine leak completely empty, or I must devise a way to get the oil out so I can replace the gaskets. Yes, I'll be replacing the two crankshaft seals and the oil pan gasket as well, there is no better time than now while the engine is still out of the car.
 
11921 - 11940 of 11962 Posts
Top