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'87 560 SEC, Pearl Grey/blue; 300,000+ mi; '07 CLS 550, Barolo/stone; 90,000+ mi
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1,135 Posts
Looked up schlepper and it was like a tracked Duck. The name that I know of that 2nd vehicle (forgot to post that) is a Kettenkrad. The front tire is just along for the ride because while the steering is actuated by the handlebars the turning is done via the tracks like a tank. There was one in Saving Private Ryan towards the end of the movie. Durned thing is a maintenance nightmare as each wheel hub has a grease fitting and each track segment / shoe has it's own oil reservoir, and to remove one of the double track wheels you have to remove two outer track wheels
Yes, I remember in Saving Private Ryan, they commandeered it while setting the ambush in the town. Good thing the maintenance nightmare didn't kick in when they needed it. Sounds like the types of problems the Panthers and Tigers faced.
 

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'91 560SEC, '91 300SE (sold), '98 Yota, '02 S-10 Hauler
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9,394 Posts
Yeah, that's the one. With the Tigers and Panthers I guess it's a good thing they were diesels because the fuel leaks they had, not that diesel fumes were much better
 

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1983 300SD
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949 Posts
This weekend I did the following:
  • Replaced both front door latches (Wow, I don't have to slam the door anymore!)
  • Put sound dampening and insulation under the front floorboards and in the trunk
  • Re-glued the dash wood on the glove-box
  • Took apart and cleaned the tail lights, including the inside of the lenses, and reinstalled
  • Soaked the tail light gaskets in 303
  • Tried to polish my new (to me) rear trunk badges with Dremel and polishing compound. It worked, but is tedious - I think that I will get a polishing wheel for my angle grinder, for more coverage at once.
  • Replaced broken rear door check strap/closer
 

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'87 560 SEC, Pearl Grey/blue; 300,000+ mi; '07 CLS 550, Barolo/stone; 90,000+ mi
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1,135 Posts
This weekend I did the following:
  • Replaced both front door latches (Wow, I don't have to slam the door anymore!)
  • Put sound dampening and insulation under the front floorboards and in the trunk
  • Re-glued the dash wood on the glove-box
  • Took apart and cleaned the tail lights, including the inside of the lenses, and reinstalled
  • Soaked the tail light gaskets in 303
  • Tried to polish my new (to me) rear trunk badges with Dremel and polishing compound. It worked, but is tedious - I think that I will get a polishing wheel for my angle grinder, for more coverage at once.
  • Replaced broken rear door check strap/closer
Was the striker tab in tact--just the latch problem? If so, was the entire lock mechanism replaced or can you punch out the latch itself and replace?

I don't know how it is in the early w126 sedans, but in the SEC there is thick board-type insulation under the foam-backed carpets. Is that material present in your car, or is there painted unibody metal when you pull the carpets up? It would be great if you happen to have any photos of the process, how you navigated the wire channels, etc.

Are the trunk badges on early w126s metal? Otherwise you can go through the "chrome" finish very quickly on the plastic badges.
 

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1983 300SD
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949 Posts
Yes, the striker was intact, I had bought some Meyle replacements for my SDL that were never installed. In watching Impalaman's (youtube) videos on his 300SD renewal, he showed that you can just take the 'guts' from the new one, and put it in the OEM mercedes metal. This is much better, as I'm sure that the quality of the metal is better, but on top of that, the replacements were a different size, so I couldn't just outline the unit and then put it in the same place, for correct alignment! The only thing that was really wrong with the strikers, was the lower wedge-shaped piece that ALWAYS gets brittle and breaks.

In the SD and the SDL, in the front, the floor mat have a thick foam backing on them, other than that, there is nothing there. I did not take pics, but I will show the finished product. I just went around the wiring channels. I also put some of the dampening material on the rear quarter panels while I was in the trunk. I still have to line the spare tire well and the side wells in the trunk, and finish the underside of the trunk lid. The difference in resonance with and without the butyl-based sound deadener on the back quarters is quite amazing. I plan on putting this on the hood as well, under the new OEM hood pad that I have to install. It should take away a lot of the movement/noise on closing the hood, and provide a bit more sound insulation as well. The products that I used were Noico brand.

The badges are metal on the '83. I found someone in another thread (either here or on PeachParts), that mentioned a product on Amazon called "Aluminum Restore" Amazon.com: Aluminum Restore: Anodized Aluminum Auto Trim Instant Polish : Automotive). He said that he got good results that last about 6 months, and it's just wipe on.

I was very sad that Gen1 cars had a different rear sway bar configuration than Gen 2, as I have one of the upgraded rear bars that made a HUGE difference in handling on the SDL. After looking at the threads describing the Gen1 bar, it didn't seem like what I saw on the SD. I don't know if someone has put a different rear suspension on this, but it DEFINITELY has the Gen 2 style rear swaybar, so YEA!, I can install it and have flatter handling!
 

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2004 CLK320; 1985 380SEL
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105 Posts
Today I put the 380SEL up on ramps and crawled underneath to do a couple small jobs and naturally enough I made some more discoveries whilst there. The r/h exhaust downpipe heat shield was hanging by a couple lose hex head screws and a couple were missing, so I fumbled around and managed to fit another 2 tech screws and tightened it up. If it comes lose again I t think it will be an exhaust off job to fix it properly(?) Whilst there I decided to take off the greasy and scratched sump guard to clean it up and found the engine sump was rusty, so I had a couple items to degrease and paint.

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I fitted a new temperature gauge sender unit and this solved my issue of my temperature gauge not getting past 60 degrees C. It now reads OK :) Add to that, the radiator coolant filler tank overflow hose was looking tacky, so I replaced it with some black silicone hose. That's a few more small jobs out of the way.

Whilst under the car I noticed the air pump was disconnected (no drive belt) and the electrical connection was also unplugged. I'm not sure if it was ever connected, being a 1985 Australian delivered vehicle with no exhaust catalytic converters or O2 sensors. We were a bit slow with emission control devices on engines in the 1980's. I figure this (the air pump and attachments) is just a useless bit of metal in my engine bay, so I'd like to remove it. Does anyone know how easy or hard that should be/what's involved?
 

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1987 & 1991 C126
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5,833 Posts
Air pump removal is wicked easy!

In addition there’s a valve [#140] just upstream in its output line and screwed into the motor.

I removed both pump & valve, filling the resulting hole with a diff / transmission filler / drain plug of the same thread configuration. I wish my car were closer I’d share a pic as it came out looking ‘factory’. One may also remove the air pump bracket as well.

As this was years ago, I do not recall the details of part number etc.

M
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'91 560SEC, '91 300SE (sold), '98 Yota, '02 S-10 Hauler
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Whilst there I decided to take off the greasy and scratched sump guard to clean it up

View attachment 2720899

Whilst under the car I noticed the air pump was disconnected (no drive belt) and the electrical connection was also unplugged.
Looks like your skid plate has done it's job protecting the sump, good deal. And yes the air pump delete is easy, when removing the bracket there is one or two bolts on the front of the engine that need replacing with shorter bolts. I thought I had a pic of the valve delete plug screwed into the head but it's just behind the oil filter housing and there is a second hole in the head with the exact same plug you'll need so if you can find one in the junkyard take that middle plug from the scrapped car

Air pump removal is wicked easy!

In addition there’s a valve [#140] just upstream in its output line and screwed into the motor.

I removed both pump & valve, filling the resulting hole with a diff / transmission filler / drain plug of the same thread configuration. I wish my car were closer I’d share a pic as it came out looking ‘factory’. One may also remove the air pump bracket as well.

As this was years ago, I do not recall the details of part number etc.

M
View attachment 2720917 View attachment 2720918 View attachment 2720919
The valve I removed looked different than that one. Overall I think about 10 pounds of deadweight were removed
 
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'86 W123 200, OM617 non-turbo, bastard 5-speed; '95 W202 C250 Diesel, OM605 non-turbo, 5-spd man
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4,692 Posts
This weekend was short, but I’ve managed to reassemble most of the OM606. I need to get the right length bolts for the alternator and power steering pump, and a shorter fan belt for running the engine without AC, as my W202’s AC compressor doesn’t fit the older W124-style compressor
bracket.
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'91 560SEC, '91 300SE (sold), '98 Yota, '02 S-10 Hauler
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Whilst under the car I noticed the air pump was disconnected (no drive belt) and the electrical connection was also unplugged. I'm not sure if it was ever connected, being a 1985 Australian delivered vehicle with no exhaust catalytic converters or O2 sensors. We were a bit slow with emission control devices on engines in the 1980's. I figure this (the air pump and attachments) is just a useless bit of metal in my engine bay, so I'd like to remove it. Does anyone know how easy or hard that should be/what's involved?
While poking around on my 'puter here I found and also took a couple of pics on the smog / air pump delete. You'll see exactly where the valve was removed and a subsequent plug installed as well as a pic of an extra plug I have here. As I said before if you can find one of these engines in the J/Y you can snag one from the middle position in the passenger side head

Just behind the alternator and below the oil filter housing is where my smog valve was located
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I don't have any p/n or location where these were used except that at a midway point on the same side of the head will be another plug, you will need the washer under it as well, you can see one in the first pic

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2004 CLK320; 1985 380SEL
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While poking around on my 'puter here I found and also took a couple of pics on the smog / air pump delete. You'll see exactly where the valve was removed and a subsequent plug installed as well as a pic of an extra plug I have here. As I said before if you can find one of these engines in the J/Y you can snag one from the middle position in the passenger side head........................
Not too many wreckers (J/Y's) around here. I figure when I get to this, I'll just remove what is required and determine the required blanking plug thread specs and go hunting or fabricate a solution. If I get desperate I may even be able to weld up a solution using the original fitting. :)
Thanks for the pics.
It should be an easy job, and the good thing is I can leave the vehicle a couple weeks unused, whilst I get it sorted.
 

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2004 CLK320; 1985 380SEL
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I got around to doing the air/smog pump delete today. Removing the alternator and sitting to the side in the engine bay made the job easier, providing better access to the air/smog pump and bracket. What should have been a couple hour job ended up taking most of the day. It's not that it was a difficult job in terms of knowledge and skill required. It was a case of not a lot of room to work with and fiddly locations of a couple of the pump mount bracket bolts that needed removing. Then there is the bolt that sits behind the oil filter housing that I couldn't remove because the oil filter housing is in the way. Rather than cut the bolt and fit a shorter one (maybe I will later?), I just made up a metal spacer and tightened the bolt up again after I had removed the air pump bracket. And whilst there, (of course), I found that all the rubber supports around the adjacent power steering hose (I assume it was a p/s hose) were perished. My solution was to wrap them with some heater hose in places where the hose may rub - so it's all OK for now. More time was taken with a trip shopping to get a couple M8 2 inch high tensile bolts to replace the old 4 inch bolts + track down a blanking plug to fit in the head. I ended up with a M22 brass plug and it fitted well. :) Add to that I took the time to remove a bit of the caked on oil-grease grime that had accumulated on the lower engine and chassis in places. Funny how most people just don't bother cleaning engines - out of sight, out of mind, I guess. Anyway, job done!

shot of the brass plug and you can see that bolt behind the oil filter housing
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'91 560SEC, '91 300SE (sold), '98 Yota, '02 S-10 Hauler
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I got around to doing the air/smog pump delete today. Removing the alternator and sitting to the side in the engine bay made the job easier, providing better access to the air/smog pump and bracket. Anyway, job done!
Good deal, and yes I've found that by taking other items out of the way makes it much easier to get to what needs to be worked on and like you allows some of the needed cleaning to be done also (partly OCD and partly my "Army Training" years ago). I'm trying to think of the hoses on that side of the engine but just remembered you probably have RHD and could very well be P/S hose, I was thinking transmission line. I also use rubber hose to replace the factory "sleeves" on various lines

Today I'll be tackling the very last SLS part that hasn't been changed yet, the right / rear strut. No, it's not leaking but if the other strut was any indication, it's the ball joint on the bottom causing the "clunk" when hitting some bumps. While I'm under there I'll check to make sure everything else is still snug and tight
 
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1990 500SL, 1986 500SEC
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Finally managed to press these bushings in. Making terribly slow progress on the front suspension rebuild. Hopefully the SEC will see some road time in 2022.
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85 500SEL
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Finally managed to press these bushings in. Making terribly slow progress on the front suspension rebuild. Hopefully the SEC will see some road time in 2022. View attachment 2722391
I just did mine, I tried to find a shop to press them out but was told, no you’ll have to hammer them out. Not liking that answer I went down to the hardware store for a 7/16 threaded rod and ordered a 3” pipe cap and short threaded nipple. They pressed out pretty easy and after I lubed them up with dishwashing soap they went back in pretty easy.
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1989 560SEC, 1989 560SEL, 1995 E420
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I just did mine, I tried to find a shop to press them out but was told, no you’ll have to hammer them out. Not liking that answer I went down to the hardware store for a 7/16 threaded rod and ordered a 3” pipe cap and short threaded nipple. They pressed out pretty easy and after I lubed them up with dishwashing soap they went back in pretty easy. View attachment 2722596
What bushing is this?
 
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