Mercedes-Benz Forum banner
11601 - 11620 of 11681 Posts

·
Moderator
1991 500SEC Euro, 1987 560SEC Federal
Joined
·
5,547 Posts
"in order to get the new mount into the housing, if you put a very long but narrow screw clamp (I call them snails, not sure what they're actually called) around the large, hard rubber bush and tighten it up as hard as you can to compress the bushing in order to get it started in the housing (also lube it up really well) & once you have the part started (8mm-10mm) in the housing and sitting evenly all of the way around take the snail off then it's just a simple matter of using a soft faced hammer"

Terrific tip!
 

·
Registered
85 500SEL
Joined
·
192 Posts
I'm guessing I'm too late already but apart from advice regarding the "leaf spring" things with the bolts, the best tip I have found with doing the guide/Castor Rod/braking support rod pins (or any of the other countless names people use for them) would be that in order to get the new mount into the housing, if you put a very long but narrow screw clamp (I call them snails, not sure what they're actually called) around the large, hard rubber bush and tighten it up as hard as you can to compress the bushing in order to get it started in the housing (also lube it up really well) & once you have the part started (8mm-10mm) in the housing and sitting evenly all of the way around take the snail off then it's just a simple matter of using a soft faced hammer and a little pent up frustration to get them the rest of the way into the housing.
It makes it a far more easy job!
Thanks, I pretty much did the same thing. I took the housing up to the guide rod and screwed the joint onto the guide rod. Then using a couple of long 10mm bolts drew the joint into the housing a little at a time. Alternating between tightening the bolts and turning the joint into the guide rod. Until the housing was all the way threaded in. Took the longer bolts out installed the right bolts, dropped the housing and joint down just enough to to torque it and bolted it back to the frame. Worked out just fine. Still need an alignment, caster is going to be off but not too much.
2699209
 

·
Registered
85 500SEL
Joined
·
192 Posts
Ok I need a little help with the mixture. If the frequency meter is at 59% and I want to get it closer to 50%, do I increase the mixture (make it richer) or decrease the mixture (make it leaner)?

I’m probably going to get a wide band O2 later but I just want to get it closer.
 

·
Registered
1990 Mercedes-Benz 300SE (W126) In Arctic Silver with Dark Blue Leather Interior
Joined
·
72 Posts
"in order to get the new mount into the housing, if you put a very long but narrow screw clamp (I call them snails, not sure what they're actually called) around the large, hard rubber bush and tighten it up as hard as you can to compress the bushing in order to get it started in the housing (also lube it up really well) & once you have the part started (8mm-10mm) in the housing and sitting evenly all of the way around take the snail off then it's just a simple matter of using a soft faced hammer"

Terrific tip!
I'm just happy to help.
Often when one asks a question on the forums, one gets 100 different theories and absolutely no actual answers so if I can help a little bit in a real way by suggesting the little tips that have made jobs easier for me, I feel like I'm "giving back", that my posts are useful and I'm not further confusing the situation further.
 

·
Registered
85 500SEL
Joined
·
192 Posts
I‘ve read the procedure on tightening the wheel bearings and am a bit confused about what the manual actually means, after watching most of the YouTube videos the point that confuses me is the manual states 1-2mm preload. Most of the videos arbitrarily use play instead of preload. Preload means to me that once the bearing is in contact with the race and there is no play then you would tighten it between 1-2mm more to preload the bearing. Not loosen the bearing 1-2mm for 1-2mm of play. Is that right?
 

Attachments

·
Outstanding Contributor
'17 GLS450, '14 GLK250 "Grandpa's Roadster" Project Car, 350SDL (Sold)
Joined
·
4,023 Posts
I think there was an extensive discussion of this a few years back. As Heikkif stated, you need to push the flange all the way in one direction then zero the indicator (or note the reading, then push it all the way in the opposite direction and read the play.) The bearing really doesn't have any preload since you can move the flange.

[edit] fix typos after being quoted and having them saved for posterity...
 

·
Registered
85 500SEL
Joined
·
192 Posts
I think there was an extensive discussion f this a few years back. As Heikkif stated, you need pt push the flange all the way in one direction then zero the indicator (or note the reading, then push it all the way in the opposite direction and read the play. The bearing really doesn't have any preload since you can move the flange.
Oops, I read what I wanted to in it. Sorry. Smacked myself on the back of the head thanks.
 

·
Registered
85 500SEL
Joined
·
192 Posts
Got the drivers side wheel bearing done, took the drivers side tire to tire shop to find slow leak. The air was leaking out the bead. The install shop didn’t bother to clean the rim before mounting the tire. I was really worried that they had broken the bead. But all better now. Just have the passenger side wheel bearing to check and then just the frame nut that goes to the front brake support rod bushing. So onward tomorrow……

thanks Josh for the write up on the bearings and brakes. Outstanding.
 

·
Registered
1981 300SD, 1976 300D
Joined
·
987 Posts
New Bosch fuel accumulator brought the hard hot start situation under control this afternoon...

(here in Phoenix at 111F we know hot starts 😳
 

·
Premium Member
1999 500SL, 1988 SEC
Joined
·
1,747 Posts
Off came the drivers side door panel yesterday so I could adjust the windows. They were off due to new seals in the mirror triangle section. I swear those door panels have been off 100 times. I wonder how long the treads in the doors will last. Also spent time looking for a small oil leak in the back section of the passenger side head. That has been a bear to find.
 

·
Registered
85 500SEL
Joined
·
192 Posts
well she is back on her wheels, (all of them). Took her for a spin, ran like S**t, but she ran. Most probably since I fixed her exhaust leaks and have her too lean now. getting out the fuel pressure gages, frequency tester, timing light, 3mm Allen wrench and vacuum gage.
 
11601 - 11620 of 11681 Posts
Top