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Premium Member
1999 500SL, 1988 SEC
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1,159 Posts
Today was TriY install day. I had a few hours and thought I could at least get one side done since the Euro logs were just installed a year ago and I made sure I used anti seize on everything. I did expect some trouble in that I knew I had to cut the down pipes from the exhaust pipes since the muffler shop had welded them together. Sawzall takes care of everything💪 Well nothing is easy on the exhaust on these. I was lucky in that I removed the newer accordian clamps between the front and rear halves, which allows you to separate things And gives you some room. If you take the front section off first you can just get at the bottom back bolts from the front. But..for me the down pipe would not break apart from the manifold even though it was off only a year ago. Much swearing and hammering and it finally broke free. Let me tell you though the rear piece manifold did come out easily. I think it took twenty zillion ways to find just the right path. I don’t know how anyone puts the euro logs in in one piece like someone told me they did it that way last year. The other thing that was a beast was the recirculating pipes. I antiseized the heck out of them last year but they just get stuck on there. Heat did the trick On that one. So one tri y is on but when I go to connect the down pipe, awww sh—. I should have placed them in place before I put the headers on. Lesson learned. Now I have to remove the front cross member to make room and get the pipe up there. After 3 hours I left the job still not done with 1 side. I will do it another day And this was just one of those days I guess. By the way. For any of you doing this job you need two different types of supports that bolt to the tranny. Tri Y’ need one on each side of the transmission with slots for two pipes. That is different that what most of us have. Here are pics of the units ready to go in after being ceramic coated. Hopefully one more day and wallah done.
 

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Premium Member
1991 560SEC / 2013 GL550
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1,372 Posts
What a gorgeous example. I added some comments to your video. Any plans on doing a custom exhaust? :)
Thanks! 🙂

No plans (yet). That might change if I ever have problems with the cats though and have to go in there anyways. Thought long and hard about tri y's, but trying to keep as much stock as possible for the moment
 

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Registered
85 500SEC (Euro), 87 560SEC (now sold)
Joined
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1,154 Posts
No plans (yet). That might change if I ever have problems with the cats though and have to go in there anyways. Thought long and hard about tri y's, but trying to keep as much stock as possible for the moment
Yet. ;) I understand the use of that word. It actually means "One day, for damn sure."

Were I to do a custom exhaust I would definitely track down tri-y's so that I could go all the way (find an experienced shop to handle the install -- Stutz is braver than I). It will likely be one of the last things to do. There is no rush. I am certain I have decades of enjoyment ahead of me (if I can stay healthy).
 

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Moderator
1991 500SEC sub 50K mi. 1987 560SEC Now 150K mi. 2018
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4,283 Posts
I have decades of enjoyment ahead of me (if I can stay healthy).
There is a certain irony in your words, isn't there?
Good health is the seeming 'wild card' we all are given.

M.

As an afterthought here, for me, my 560 was a tonic when I was so adversely affected with biweekly treatments several years ago. When I felt lousy, I planned & ordered needed parts & posted here on BW.
When I felt great, I was out in the garage, ministering to my SEC that Summer/Fall.

The A/C was still cold last Summer!
IMG_0453.JPG
 

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Premium Member
1999 500SL, 1988 SEC
Joined
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1,159 Posts
Today I finished the tri y install and ai think we should have a sticky on bitch days. When I put the euro logs on I said Iwould not do another exhaust but then I thought with the tri y’s being split it would not be too bad. Wrong. Now understand I don’t have a hoist or a helper and I am not a spring chicken so.. I spent 2 hours trying to get the passenger side bottom back exhaust nut started. I taped nuts to sockets, had extra nuts on the floor ready so I would not have to hunt for them when I dropped them, but noooo, nothing was easy. I used every trick in the book but nothing was easy. There is a certain sequence that has to be followed so you can get at the bottom exhaust nuts. Yes I has tof8nd that out the hard way. The one good thing was that when I had the manifolds off I could finally put that bolt in that holds the tranny dipstick to the head. Its been off since the head work and my fingers simply could not get it then and it bugged me. Its on now but now I cant find the screw for the shield for the coil! While the manifolds are on, I still have to drill the downpipe and weld the 02 bung on and put the dual tranny supports on I talked about earlier. Then off to the muffler shop to connect the pipes. Should not be to big a deal. I think I spent about 15 hours on the project, 8 of those on my back. On this project and while I don’t have the hoist I am pretty efficient so you figure it from there. If you are taking off the American exhaust..... worse yet. also just last year I had everything off so I did not have to deal with rusted parts. So be fore warned. Installing tri y’s is a bear.
 

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Registered
1977 280SE, 1984 280SEL
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19 Posts
SO, tell me about what you replaced it with. New or lightly used? About the capture nuts you used?
John
I replaced the chrome pieces with 'lightly used'. The capture nuts are OEM but used such that they would not stay in place and so required glue to keep them from falling out in the re-assembly process.
 

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59 Posts
Replaced the torn and deteriorating boots/bellows on my SLS struts. Rancho replacement. The difficult part was removing the ball joint on the bottom of the strut. Had to go buy some cheap harbor freight metric wrenches, and ground down the 17 mm. They’re on their tight!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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W201, W212, W221, & W222 Moderator
'84 Euro 500SE, '85 Euro 2.3-16, '51 Euro 170S, '97 Jeep Wrangler Sport, '15 G63 AMG
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8,475 Posts
Woke up this morning to a battery drained down to 9V; a battery I just recently replaced.

For the last two weeks, I've had this obnoxious hum behind the dash when turning the key to the ON position before starting up the vehicle, and I've noticed it gets louder and louder as I let it sit there. I pulled the fuses and isolated it to fuse 10, which is the circuit for the backup lamp, carb heater (which I don't have), idle cut off valves, and it mentions the auto gearbox.

I know the backup lamps aren't humming to the front of the vehicle, and it's definitely not the IACV. It's hard to pinpoint the sound, but it's between the firewall and the dash.
 

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W201, W212, W221, & W222 Moderator
'84 Euro 500SE, '85 Euro 2.3-16, '51 Euro 170S, '97 Jeep Wrangler Sport, '15 G63 AMG
Joined
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8,475 Posts
Battery charges up fully and holds the charge just fine. I attribute the drain to the corroded negative battery terminal that has also lost much of the plating, so even grease will only help so much. I'll get a new negative battery cable and go from there.

Still unsure what's humming, but one thing at a time.
 

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Registered
1985 MB 500sel (Euro)
Joined
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211 Posts
Hi All
Some of you may recall that my excellent Indy mechanic had a heart attack and other issues about 8 months ago. Since I am not much of a DIYer, this was a real issue. But, he is so good that I deferred a lot of work in the hope he would recover (for me but also more so for him). Well, my mechanic/friend is back.....hey la lee dah. Just got the car and am a happy camper. Here's what we did:
FLUIDS
two years and time to drain and replace differential and a/t
also three months for Rotella T4
FUEL SYSTEM (am also noting brand and country of mfr)
1 Bosch fuel accumulator (GERMANY) Hooray it fixed my issue of difficult hot starts about an hour after switching off.
2 MB fuel lines (GERMANY) from/to CIS Thanx to Alaydon for the numbers and Mercedes of Allipattah GA for the parts
1 Cohline hose (GERMANY) from fuel pump to damper
Am glad these have been replaced; do not like pix of marshmallow roast 126s
ELECTRIC
1 Bosch ignition coil (BRASIL)
SUSPENSION
a refresh on the front suspension that started with a groan from both sides when turning.
2 Meyle 14mm shims (THAILAND)
2 MB front insulator pads (GERMANY)
2 Lesjofor front coil springs (SWEDEN)
4 Meyle sway bar bushings (CHINA)
2 Moog upper control arms (TAIWAN) Actually, the box says: Taiwan Province of China. First time I've seen that but hear its been that way for a long time.
2 Moog problem solver ball joints (USA hooray)
2 ABS sensors (GERMANY)
2 Febi bushings
2 Lemboerder front ball joints (GERMANY)
In removing and replacing these parts, we found a lot of corrosion especially on the right side, attributed to salt. The car is a Florida car, but we had it ten years up north. Somehow doofus me knew salt was BAD but didn't do enough. Return to Florida and most of rust addressed in time. Still patches that are needful.
MISC
1 Contitech A/C belt (GERMANY) Thought the A/C compressor was leaking. Turns out it was a loose power steering reservoir. New nut at the top and gunk all around fixed it.
4 Meyle door strikers (TAIWAN) and magically my doors go THUNK again.

Car drives like new, or nearly so. A lot tighter. Mercedes float down the road but with road control. And everything else is working fine. Over the next few months will do tires, drivetrain flex plates and inside/outside door handles.
 

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Premium Member
1999 500SL, 1988 SEC
Joined
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1,159 Posts
Good for you. Whenever I did steering stuff it was a pleasure testing it out after.
 

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Registered
'87 560 SEC, Pearl Grey/blue; 300,000+ mi; '07 CLS 550, Barolo/stone; 90,000+ mi
Joined
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505 Posts
Hi All
Some of you may recall that my excellent Indy mechanic had a heart attack and other issues about 8 months ago. Since I am not much of a DIYer, this was a real issue. But, he is so good that I deferred a lot of work in the hope he would recover (for me but also more so for him). Well, my mechanic/friend is back.....hey la lee dah. Just got the car and am a happy camper. Here's what we did:
FLUIDS
two years and time to drain and replace differential and a/t
also three months for Rotella T4
FUEL SYSTEM (am also noting brand and country of mfr)
1 Bosch fuel accumulator (GERMANY) Hooray it fixed my issue of difficult hot starts about an hour after switching off.
2 MB fuel lines (GERMANY) from/to CIS Thanx to Alaydon for the numbers and Mercedes of Allipattah GA for the parts
1 Cohline hose (GERMANY) from fuel pump to damper
Am glad these have been replaced; do not like pix of marshmallow roast 126s
ELECTRIC
1 Bosch ignition coil (BRASIL)
SUSPENSION
a refresh on the front suspension that started with a groan from both sides when turning.
2 Meyle 14mm shims (THAILAND)
2 MB front insulator pads (GERMANY)
2 Lesjofor front coil springs (SWEDEN)
4 Meyle sway bar bushings (CHINA)
2 Moog upper control arms (TAIWAN) Actually, the box says: Taiwan Province of China. First time I've seen that but hear its been that way for a long time.
2 Moog problem solver ball joints (USA hooray)
2 ABS sensors (GERMANY)
2 Febi bushings
2 Lemboerder front ball joints (GERMANY)
In removing and replacing these parts, we found a lot of corrosion especially on the right side, attributed to salt. The car is a Florida car, but we had it ten years up north. Somehow doofus me knew salt was BAD but didn't do enough. Return to Florida and most of rust addressed in time. Still patches that are needful.
MISC
1 Contitech A/C belt (GERMANY) Thought the A/C compressor was leaking. Turns out it was a loose power steering reservoir. New nut at the top and gunk all around fixed it.
4 Meyle door strikers (TAIWAN) and magically my doors go THUNK again.

Car drives like new, or nearly so. A lot tighter. Mercedes float down the road but with road control. And everything else is working fine. Over the next few months will do tires, drivetrain flex plates and inside/outside door handles.
Glad to hear it was a success, your mechanic's recovery and return, and all the work done. Did you work with him during the job?

Just curious, for the Meyle/Asian-sourced parts, were they the only available option (particularly for suspension)? I've read the Meyle rubber just doesn't last but a year or two, and the striker assemblies (while about 17% the price of dealer replacement) supposedly don't sit flush against the sheetmetal. Did the latter actually turn out like OEM fitment?
 

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Registered
1985 MB 500sel (Euro)
Joined
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211 Posts
2 Lemboerder front ball joints (GERMANY)

good questions Drew
First of all, a correction. Lemforder product identified in post was NOT ball joints, but rather front left and right Suspension Support Bracket Repair Kit (GERMANY)

This illustratesf one of the problems in today's market. Moog made the upper control arms for my gen I 126, but Lemforder did not. Have to go with what's available. In this case it was Lemforder, Meyle or Febi. Going with Moog, I have to hope the Taiwanese parts enjoy good Moog quality control. I'm sure they do. Same goes for Bosch parts sourced in Germany and Brasil. I am somewhat guided by the parts guide published on the e500 forum. I think you can find it using the search community function with all forums OEM Supplier and October 27, 2016.

(off subject somewhat, skip this para if you want, but I am familiar with overseas quality control. Uruguay had a lot of good,small shoe companies, but could not export to the US. Sears had an order for a million pairs and that was too much. A friend of mine organized about 15 companies to product standard shoes and then set up a rigorous quality control option, and charged a percentage for it. Result, Uruguay entered the US market and boom times.After a few years the Uruguayans said we can do it ourselves and soon lost the market. My friend moved to Brasil where he still does the same thing and the last time I looked Nine West was still selling in the US).

As for the Febi and Meyle parts, I understand they (or Meyle at least) used to supply door strikers to MB, but can't vouch for that. What I am told has happened is that Febi and Meyle molds and patterns have been sold overseas, and so the quality control may vary. Others weigh in please if this is not accurate.

I have heard the same about Meyle and Febi. All I can say is that the door strikers give me a resounding thunk and fit fine, as for the rubber parts, we'll have to see. I applied the smell test to the MB, Febi and Meyle but couldn't tell the difference although some claim they can tell.

Did not work with him on this, but starting five years ago I have learned a lot, but know my limits. My fun comes from searching out the parts and watching how he does it.

One of these days I am going to see a rocket launch (so that she who must be obeyed will not consider it a lost day) but will also see if I can meet Pierre Hedary. best regards
 

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Registered
1985 MB 500sel (Euro)
Joined
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211 Posts
P.S. what happened to the edit function to correct typos? Clearly my car is a 126, not 125.
also, I sourced parts from Pelican, ebay, autohausAZ, parts geek and directly with Moog.
 

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Outstanding Contributor
350SDL, '17 GLS450, "Grandpa's Roadster" Project Car
Joined
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3,114 Posts
I attribute the drain to the corroded negative battery terminal that has also lost much of the plating,
Keep looking. Unless the corrosion covers the whole top of the battery, providing a path for current all the way to the positive post, it won't drain the battery.

P.S. what happened to the edit function to correct typos?
Click on the three vertical dots in the upper right corner of the post.
 

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Registered
1985 MB 500sel (Euro)
Joined
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211 Posts
got it. thanks. to clarify, its the three vertical dots on the post itself to be edited rather than the three dots at the top of the whole thread. took me a minute to figure it out. wish I were as good with a wench oops wrench.
 

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Outstanding Contributor
350SDL, '17 GLS450, "Grandpa's Roadster" Project Car
Joined
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3,114 Posts
Keep looking. Unless the corrosion covers the whole top of the battery, providing a path for current all the way to the positive post, it won't drain the battery.
A simple test is to take a volt meter, remove the negative cable from the battery, connect the red probe to the end of the negative cable (insulate it from the body of the car) and the black probe to the negative terminal of the battery. The higher the voltage reading, the higher the parasitic draw.
 
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