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'87 560 SEC, Pearl Grey/blue; 300,000+ mi; '07 CLS 550, Barolo/stone; 90,000+ mi
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479 Posts
Has the car been sitting for more than two months without driving? Otherwise I'm surprised the seal would fail this early post-rebuild.
 

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Premium Member
1999 500SL, 1988 SEC
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1,126 Posts
Well, found some more garage time today. One of the things I wanted to check was the compression on #7 & #8. If you remember the whole reason I went down the rabbit hole of redoing my heads was those two cylinders showed only about 130# of compression, while the rest showed about 170. Tried a number of leakdown guages to center on the issue, but could never get one to work right so simply made the assumption it had to be a headgasket (Very seldom do I hear M117 having ring or piston problems) so I thought it was a good gamble. Anyway today went to auotzone and borrowed a gauge. Yuup, first one was defective, but shazaam, the second one showed I have 160# in both cylinders. That is comparable to the others so I am going to leave things. I know its not optimal, but not outside the range of a 100,000 mile engine. I still have an extra block and crank so just maybe some day if higher comp pistons fall from the sky........ Although I understand they are starting to make electric kits for classics. No, I am not advocating that but it sure is going to change the trees in the neighborhood I think.
The second thing I did was to remove the tranny pan. I did that just to make sure the leak is not a gasket, the o ring on the fill tube or the drain plug. I get a new gasket tomorrow so will have that answer soon. If its not one of those then it has to be the seal. It has new lines so I know its not them. For all of you chasing leaks, just get a old cardboard box and put it under the car for a few days and that will show you where things are coming from

Besides the tranny tomorrow is smoke out day. I plan to smoke test things again just to see if I have any leaks. I suspect a dash or seat leak but have to see smoke to test that one.

I am also attaching a picture of the spark plug from # 8. It shows running rich, but my AF guage showed being in the right spot, so does the duty cycle, and it has new EHA valve and new pressure regulator. I am hesitant to do anything since it runs well except going to a higher range plug. If you read all the posts by HD you know adjusting things without knowing all the data is a no no. I guess a rich plug is not the worst of things

Also want to say thanks to another member. He thought he saw what I needed in a jy regardings front and rear spoilers. Alas the spoilers he found were for American bumpers and I have Gen 1 Euro's but my point is we have a lot of good guys on here who give of thier time and knowledge helping others. Can't ask for more than that. But the hunt goes on! On a personal topic I hope everyone has a nice night and drive safe! Lots of crazies. Speaking of which, I lent my sister the R129 for the winter and in Denver, where she lives, it gets warm quite often, so just before Christmas she takes the car out with the top down wearing a Santa suit. You can imagine the looks of that one. At any rate new year almost here. Should be a slow year car repair wise......... I think I said that a zillion times already
 

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Registered
1991 560sec. 1969 280SL
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1,031 Posts
To be honest I dont think that plug looks too bad, although it does look like the mixture is too rich.
 

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Registered
1984 380SE 181k miles
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35 Posts
While I have the driver's seat out to recover the worn leather, I thought I would freshen-up the plastic trim pieces.
Can you tell which piece I did not paint? I think I have a pretty good color match for Palomino.

RV

the small piece for the armrest pivot is unpainted.
20200101_154230.jpg
 

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Premium Member
1999 500SL, 1988 SEC
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1,126 Posts
Those little pieces are a bugger to get out. They look fantastic. I wish we had someone who was good with a new injection printer, side rear quarter panels sails, the pieces you just show etc. Seems like there would be a market
 

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Registered
1984 380SE 181k miles
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35 Posts
Had to repair the two bigger pieces when they broke. Added a 3/4" copper pipe fitting, using epoxy for bonding, to replace the round section that holds them to the metal brackets. I use adhesive silicone caulk to install them.

RV
 

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Registered
1991 420 SEL
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123 Posts
'a million quarts of oil' lol

Luckymike, thanks. I did just do the brakes and cleaned the ring, and since your comment I've been paying very close attention - it doesn't happen enough to nail down but I'll keep watching!

Not my MB but changed the water pump and radiator on my broinlaws 07 Camry I-4. I'm impressed by the design, it only took about 2 hours for the pump.

Pete, Lord Emperor of Petronia
 

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Premium Member
1999 500SL, 1988 SEC
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1,126 Posts
Just a tidbit. This weekend I dropped the tranny pan, took out the filler tube and started to reseal all seeing if the leak was at one of these areas. I was able to reuse the gasket but I used silicone sealant on top and bottom of the gasket. Normally I would not do that to this type of gasket but was not willing to take the chance. Tranny fluid is expensive. I also sealed the drain plug. But, when I took out the fill tube I was not real happy with the size of the o ring. I thought it needed to be plumper (no snide comments). So I go to the store on New Years day and while there was none to be found at the right circumference I did see one I thought would do the trick with regards to ring diameter. So going back into my memory I knew you could cut o rings to the correct size and simply super glue them together. So sure enough it worked and I now have a better sealing ring. I can't say if it fixed the issue yet since I am waiting on more trans fluid but I thought I would share that trick with all.
 

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SuperModerator
1986/1990 W126
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13,551 Posts
Redlined it. Several times. It was fun :) Don't you just love the way they don't drop into top gear until past 120 if you keep on it.

The old girl needed a bit of a run out after sitting around in a big puddle again for weeks.
 

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Registered
1991 420 SEL
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123 Posts
I didn't actually do anything but dreamed someone gave me a used MB timing chain, just being helpful.

Upon inspection it was a single row and I thought, well this sucks. Then I saw the cam gears (I've never seen the single row ones in real life) and they were laughably skinny and flimsy with a bunch of teeth stripped off :)

Apparently I've been thinking too much about these cars!

Also, has anyone ever gotten used parts from Rock Auto as 'closeouts'? I bought a 10124631 tensioner for my old S-10 and it was filthy, obviously used and even said warranty replacement / broken on the outside filthy beatup box.

I complained and they sent me - basically the same thing again! Not only did I get a refund at that point, I sent an email. They apologized blahblahblah BS. A couple days later I see on their site they're still selling them. I sent an email pointing it out and got no response. As the 'family and friend' mechanic I spend well over a thousand a year there and have for years.

So again, apparently "Rock Auto" sells used parts as new.
 

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1984 380SE 181k miles
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35 Posts
Finally finished recovering the driver's seat, using the MB-Tex pieces I bought from World Upholstery earlier last year.I discovered the backrest pad was falling apart when I removed the original leather backrest cover during disassembly. Ordered new backrest pad and armrest cover in MB-Tex at that time. Seats look great, bought a used driver side carpet to replace original one. Things are much better now...

Pictures to follow...

RV
 

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Moderator
1991 500SEC sub 50K mi. 1987 560SEC Now 150K mi. 2018
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4,194 Posts
Redlined it. Several times. It was fun :) Don't you just love the way they don't drop into top gear until past 120 if you keep on it.

The old girl needed a bit of a run out after sitting around in a big puddle again for weeks.
Says it all, Ian...

I just can't wait for Spring!

M.
 

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Registered
1984 380SE 181k miles
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35 Posts
Finally finished recovering the driver's seat, using the MB-Tex pieces I bought from World Upholstery earlier last year.I discovered the backrest pad was falling apart when I removed the original leather backrest cover during disassembly. Ordered new backrest pad and armrest cover in MB-Tex at that time. Seats look great, bought a used driver side carpet to replace original one. Things are much better now...

Pictures to follow...

RV
20200115_162742.jpg
 

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1977 280SE, 1984 280SEL
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18 Posts
1991 350 SD - Yesterday my mechanic spent the day on my projects. First up was putting in high-powered fog lights in the 'grill' area in the front bumper cover and attached to the fiberglass 'bumper' They are wired to go on with the regular fog lights and aimed at the center (left) and fog (right) lines about 50 feet ahead of me. This to deal with my diminished ability to see those lines at night when wet and oncoming headlights 'get' me. Once they were installed, off came the whole bumper to replace the chrome bits which had been destroyed by rust. The big unanticipated problem was the capture nuts which ended up being GLUED to stay in place in the allotted spots. The replacement chrome was used but in great condition. Anyone else have this problem reusing the capture nuts? I had already read the horror stories about this job but no mention of this particular problem that I can recall. AN-y-way, I'm happy. Those bubbles in the chrome drove me crazy.
 

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Outstanding Contributor
1989 560SEC, 1989 560SEL, 1995 E420
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4,061 Posts
1991 350 SD - Yesterday my mechanic spent the day on my projects. First up was putting in high-powered fog lights in the 'grill' area in the front bumper cover and attached to the fiberglass 'bumper' They are wired to go on with the regular fog lights and aimed at the center (left) and fog (right) lines about 50 feet ahead of me. This to deal with my diminished ability to see those lines at night when wet and oncoming headlights 'get' me. Once they were installed, off came the whole bumper to replace the chrome bits which had been destroyed by rust. The big unanticipated problem was the capture nuts which ended up being GLUED to stay in place in the allotted spots. The replacement chrome was used but in great condition. Anyone else have this problem reusing the capture nuts? I had already read the horror stories about this job but no mention of this particular problem that I can recall. AN-y-way, I'm happy. Those bubbles in the chrome drove me crazy.
I haven't experienced glued in capture nuts but have experienced them spinning and not allowing removal of the bolt. Super pain in the neck.

What I want to say with this is not to overtighten the bolts when installing your new/used chrome. Someday you may need to remove it...
 

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Registered
1977 280SE, 1984 280SEL
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18 Posts
1991 350 SD - Yesterday my mechanic spent the day on my projects. First up was putting in high-powered fog lights in the 'grill' area in the front bumper cover and attached to the fiberglass 'bumper' They are wired to go on with the regular fog lights and aimed at the center (left) and fog (right) lines about 50 feet ahead of me. This to deal with my diminished ability to see those lines at night when wet and oncoming headlights 'get' me. Once they were installed, off came the whole bumper to replace the chrome bits which had been destroyed by rust. The big unanticipated problem was the capture nuts which ended up being GLUED to stay in place in the allotted spots. The replacement chrome was used but in great condition. Anyone else have this problem reusing the capture nuts? I had already read the horror stories about this job but no mention of this particular problem that I can recall. AN-y-way, I'm happy. Those bubbles in the chrome drove me crazy.
I haven't experienced glued in capture nuts but have experienced them spinning and not allowing removal of the bolt. Super pain in the neck.

What I want to say with this is not to overtighten the bolts when installing your new/used chrome. Someday you may need to remove it...
The "holes" in the chrome are rectangular for the armature holding the nuts and match a rectangular depression in the fiberglass 'bumper'. No way for them to spin. AN-y-way, everything was treated as being installed and no way any rust will ever get a foothold again. Thanks for your thoughts.
 

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Registered
1988 560 sec
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679 Posts
1991 350 SD - Yesterday my mechanic spent the day on my projects. First up was putting in high-powered fog lights in the 'grill' area in the front bumper cover and attached to the fiberglass 'bumper' They are wired to go on with the regular fog lights and aimed at the center (left) and fog (right) lines about 50 feet ahead of me. This to deal with my diminished ability to see those lines at night when wet and oncoming headlights 'get' me. Once they were installed, off came the whole bumper to replace the chrome bits which had been destroyed by rust. The big unanticipated problem was the capture nuts which ended up being GLUED to stay in place in the allotted spots. The replacement chrome was used but in great condition. Anyone else have this problem reusing the capture nuts? I had already read the horror stories about this job but no mention of this particular problem that I can recall. AN-y-way, I'm happy. Those bubbles in the chrome drove me crazy.

The "holes" in the chrome are rectangular for the armature holding the nuts and match a rectangular depression in the fiberglass 'bumper'. No way for them to spin. AN-y-way, everything was treated as being installed and no way any rust will ever get a foothold again. Thanks for your thoughts.
Replacing those chrome bits is an pita, those bolts rust solid, took me a better part of a day to do mine . Best of luck.
 
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