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Yesterday as well:
Mosby.
I removed the driver side door glass actuator and motor that had been mucked with internally(up was down and down was up no matter how you wired it on the block on the door, Console switch was wired correctly, motr FUBAR'd and had some teeth sheared in the actuator.
Replaced the whole shebang with an actuator and motor I got from 450SL_in_MN. Works almost like a new one!!! finally most of the wind noise is gone, as is the ratchedy movement and the skips of the old assy. YEE HAWWW!!!

Also replaced the fan clutch with one I had here a I noticed that the fan looked like a whirligig, even after the whirly stopped.....

Today, I adjusted the A/F mixture a bit to get rid of a slight hunting idle situation.

Ciselle, the Diesel, W123:
Converted the old girl to pencil type fast glow plugs. Easy conversion. New 18 MM pencil GP's wire connectors between them, no ground wire, Plugs ground to block)., uses the 1977 240D stuff from Cyl. # 4 to dash. 20 minute job. (If I had known I could do this I would have done it a long time ago.)

WOW fast starts, 5 or so, second glow and go!!! Used to be 15-20 second and two or 3 cycles before it would go in cold weather, at least one full cycle in warm weather with the Loop plugs.
 

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Well today I had to pull the fenders and readjust the new hood hinges of course one bolt made it fun job. Several hours later hood and fenders adjusted as well as can be until new hood goes on. Still catches eyes though as I took her to the parts store.

Then came the start of the swapping Gen II seats onto the Gen I frames. Got the seats out and the motors would not power using my charger so back in the car and moved the seats inside the car to get at the screws. Not the way to do it but it worked. So passenger seat off of the rails, discovered that the "missing" wire from the Gen II was actually the seat belt indicator which I moved to the Gen II. Then discovered that the wires I had to cut from the Gen I seat must be for the seat back tilt. So just have to determine which wires in the Gen II harness I need to cut and splice to have that working and I will get the first seat in.

It was a job that had me a little worried but I think it is going to work out fine. Would like to do the whole gen II wiring but I just want to be able to drive the car for a while and frankly I have not adjusted the seats in my sl in 10 years. HA.
 

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I adjusted my glove box for better fit.

I like having a glove box now.
 

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Well today I had to pull the fenders and readjust the new hood hinges of course one bolt made it fun job. Several hours later hood and fenders adjusted as well as can be until new hood goes on. Still catches eyes though as I took her to the parts store.

Then came the start of the swapping Gen II seats onto the Gen I frames. Got the seats out and the motors would not power using my charger so back in the car and moved the seats inside the car to get at the screws. Not the way to do it but it worked. So passenger seat off of the rails, discovered that the "missing" wire from the Gen II was actually the seat belt indicator which I moved to the Gen II. Then discovered that the wires I had to cut from the Gen I seat must be for the seat back tilt. So just have to determine which wires in the Gen II harness I need to cut and splice to have that working and I will get the first seat in.

It was a job that had me a little worried but I think it is going to work out fine. Would like to do the whole gen II wiring but I just want to be able to drive the car for a while and frankly I have not adjusted the seats in my sl in 10 years. HA.
Cool! Good stuff, it would great to finally see it resurrected!
 

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cursed at it a lot...
 

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Replaced the hood cable. The most effort was in removing the knee bolster and both headlights to get to the working parts. Photo shows how the jacket had peeled back near the first release (driver side), causing the second release (passenger side) to be very difficult. With the new cable, the first and second releases are now in quick succession.
 

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Put the air filter cover and snorkel back on, put the valve cover back on, put the radiator back on, some other little things here and there. Found out that the EGR Valve bolt hole on the exhaust manifold is completely unsalvageable. So, I'll be going to the JY to pick up another exhaust manifold, maybe one from an earlier M103 that doesn't have the EGR Valve port, then just leave the EGR valve vacuum hose disconnected so that it doesn't open the valve. :D

Tomorrow may just be the day that my 300SE awakens from its 3 week slumber.
 

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I'd say so! What are you working on in there?
It started as a simple clean-up of the engine and engine bay due to leaky valve cover gaskets. While changing the gaskets I noticed the guide rails needed to be changed, so started in on that. Then I stripped an alternator bracket bolt and one was already stripped so I had to take the radiator out to make room to swing a hammer to get the bolt-out socket to bite.

The chain, tensioner and chain guides as well as a pin puller arrived today so should get it finished in a few hours. Then I still need to tackle the original job of cleaning the engine.

While I am in there....


By the way, BMA auto parts has the genuine Mercedes tensioner for 50 bucks cheaper than the dealer (about $185) and the chain for 76.00 if anyone is getting ready for a timing chain job.
 

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Good luck!

As for what I did today... nothing. I'm taking the car out for the first time in two weeks or so tomorrow, so it'll be interesting to see how it runs after sitting so long.
 

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Put the air filter cover and snorkel back on, put the valve cover back on, put the radiator back on, some other little things here and there. Found out that the EGR Valve bolt hole on the exhaust manifold is completely unsalvageable. So, I'll be going to the JY to pick up another exhaust manifold, maybe one from an earlier M103 that doesn't have the EGR Valve port, then just leave the EGR valve vacuum hose disconnected so that it doesn't open the valve. :D

Tomorrow may just be the day that my 300SE awakens from its 3 week slumber.
Will it pass smog like that?
 

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Will it pass smog like that?
Not sure. I doubt it, seeing as how my EGR Valve would be literally connected to nothing on the exhaust manifold side, so it'd probably fail visual inspect right off the bat. The whole process is pretty easily reversible though. So pass/fail smog is not really a concern.

I did some research on BW here, and it seems like people are getting power-gains and better mpg from removing EGR and/or removing the smog air pump. So, I've been wanting to try this for myself. Seeing as how I'm in need of a "new" exhaust manifold, I think this is the perfect time.
 

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If the CARB sticker calls for the EGR, then you will fail the visual and most shops check to see if the EGR actually works. BTDT.
 

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Put everything back together today. Tried to start the car, wouldn't start. It cranks and you can hear the engine trying its best to start, but it just won't fire up and start.

At any rate, I can't figure it out, so I'm taking it to a mechanic. I feel like it's probably something simple that I overlooked.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
ALL 3's on the odometer

I drove the car until the odometer had all 3's
 

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Discussion Starter #59

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I miss my SD, someday I will have another, your photo just proves they run forever. My 240D 4 spd has about 250,000 miles but odometer broke some years ago and the PO "guessed that it had close to 250,000 miles. I have had it over a year and it is still going strong.
These Diesels rule!
 
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