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'87 560 SEC, Pearl Grey/blue; 300,000+ mi; '07 CLS 550, Barolo/stone; 90,000+ mi
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The above SL looks like a dream come true! It even appears to have the French regulation fog lights unless I'm mistaken. The interior is particularly outstanding!
 

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'87 560 SEC, Pearl Grey/blue; 300,000+ mi; '07 CLS 550, Barolo/stone; 90,000+ mi
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Lots to comment on today and I will put some comments after the correct posts. First thing was to puta new Hirschman antenna in that I got fron Mercedessource. Best $99 I have spent in a while. I tried rebuilding some, purchesed used ones, bought control boards, and new internals all to find them finicky. I hooked the new one up to the antenna switch I have and I now can raise it or lower it at will. If I so choose, and I put the switch in the right position it will go up when the car is running, and off when I shut it off. Yes I could have connected it to raise and lower with the radio, but I did not want that. Was the fit perfect, no, but its behind the trunk side matt so no one can see it. I also put a old mercedes antenna plug on the new unit so I can take it out just like a mercedes one. So don’t fool with the old units its not worth it.

Second thing is I put on the new stainless skid plate. What a work of art. But use two people to put one on? That sucker is heavy (I am not what I used to be either) and its troublesome to not have a hoist, you hold it up and get the bolts started which takessome effort. I will pay for this tomorrow in soreness I am sure. But, oil pan will like this especially with the Michigan roads.

Third it was take the winter tires off the fusion. Yikes, wheels and tires are heavy.

Fourth, put the two new valve compensators in, put it back together temporarily, I did that just to start it to see what it sounded like. Waiting for the valve adjusting pucks to finish this project. Hope its soon, ready to drive this.

You will see in the pics, new front seat leather and rear seats with headrests that I picked up from Bob. The old ones were rotten from the Cali sun (what a problem too much sun)!

Last its clean the garage day. Boy I have lots of extra small parts it seems (and an extra block, heads, crank). Most things checked off the list. Still working on what to do about the exhaust sytems though. Have a good day all.
Is your car lowered? I remember seeing some of the guys had the group buy for the skid plate--with standard wheels/struts is it something I would benefit from?
 

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'87 560 SEC, Pearl Grey/blue; 300,000+ mi; '07 CLS 550, Barolo/stone; 90,000+ mi
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Actually if you think about it (lowered or not) look where the oil pan of these engines are, just behind a plastic covered front bumper :eek without the skid plate there isn't much up there to protect the pan. If it was behind the crossmember you'd have at least that to protect it somewhat
Maybe I lucked out in that department--its been ridden hard and put up wet over the years. I suppose if I had hit something down there (did hit an embankment after spinning on ice 360 degrees and damaging the bumper and bending the frame 14 years ago) I would have known it. Its something to consider.
 

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'87 560 SEC, Pearl Grey/blue; 300,000+ mi; '07 CLS 550, Barolo/stone; 90,000+ mi
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Here are the photos of the Time Valve euro spec SS exhaust installed on 85 Euro 500SEL. I requested the following: cat delete, X-pipe, kidney bean resonators delete. Pretty much plug and play like an erector set. Will supply some audio once I get the car off my rack. Nice close to the body fit as the car is lowered with H&R's. We located the deluxe clamps as they are proper.
All questions and comments welcomed. If I remember correctly the cost for the total system delivered to Seattle from Florida was about $800 Mike
Looks great. Are the pipes the stock 55mm (2.165in) or 2.25in all the way back?

Their site looks like an upstanding company. Would they be a closer to stock alternative than the Magnafow/exhaust shop fabrication approach (unless I wanted more modern-style cats and muffler)? It says they don't show all options on their site, so maybe they do carry upgrades. If I'm correct, it looks like one could order a pre-fab setup and the usual repair shop could install it.

They mention the exhaust hangers are designed to be replaced every 7-8 years. I wonder if I should buy two sets for the Euro setup vs buying just one and reusing what's on there?
 

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'87 560 SEC, Pearl Grey/blue; 300,000+ mi; '07 CLS 550, Barolo/stone; 90,000+ mi
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Got brave and painted the seat base of the passenger seat.

Such a shame to have to, but the front centre piece of leather has developed cracks in the colour coat, just where it creases. The leather is buttery soft so its just age I guess. The perforated section was looking worn around the perforations too.

Jury is out on durability, I will have to see how it goes. Does look a lot better than before at the moment.
Ian, did you have to sand down the existing dye layer or rough it up a little? Also, you mentioned some of the perforations are worn around the edges--are they less noticeable or more normal looking now with fresh, uniform dye? Did you brush, airbrush, or sponge/wipe? I also wonder if dye gets below the very top layer into the perforations where its normally the rough/suede side, if that causes any issues?
 

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Water from sanding should not be a problem.

I just restored a panel from our '64 Bentley (pic attached) and taking it down to bare veneer was nerve wracking before I lacquered it up again. The (extremely beautiful) bare veneer got wet with paint stripper etc and wiped off with damp cloths without a problem. After loads of lacquer I polished it by hand. Magic's buffing tool would've been great!

(Sorry for no W126 content but I've only ever refreshed the finish on a 126 rather than strip and renew.)
That's beautiful, Ian. I'm sure Greeney would enjoy seeing it as he has done similar restoration work on various marques.

How have you refreshed 126 wood? Any experience with a scratched tambor (roll-top box)? I think the slats may be laser-cut, they are so sharp. My concern is me or someone else dropping the slats and dinging the pristine corners, and if I left them on the track in the console, technically there would be an uneven amount of clear coat after removing the scratches.
 

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Yes that black piece is all that's available now Mike, but at least there's that. He's had to improvise the other side of that as mine is so bad there. He's good though so he's managed it. Still some more rusty mess to cut off though.
The parcel shelf panel itself used to come with the rear bulkhead and it was about £1200 iirc. Ouch, and imagine welding that lot in.

The SE is settling before pics. I've measured too for reference, I'll see how high it is later, lol..
Ian, does the black piece include the portion with the chassis holes underneath that often have rust? If not, how do they match that part exactly? Maybe that's what you're talking about improvising the other side.
 

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Recently replaced a stuck antenna mast, cracked/split fender grommet for antenna, and installed a new fan clutch (Behr).

After getting the a/c system recharged, I replaced the foam insulation on the brass portion of the refrigerant line, next to the ignition coil, in front of fusebox. I used a piece of plumbing pipe insulating foam from Home Depot, which fit perfect without cutting, other than for its length. The old insulation was well past its functional life, crumbling when touched.

These 35 year old Mercedes parts just don't last forever....

Fred
Yes, and perhaps it's a testament they lasted this long!
 

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Drew, no its just what you see, the piece that the boot seal and window seal needs. The rest he's making up. I actually forgot to check underneath, in my amazement lol. Whatever he does will be better than the horror show that lurks under there. I've never seen anything like it, and yet the rest of the car is pretty solid.

The other side of the black piece, he's had to join up with new metal as it was all gone. So to the parcel shelf basically.

That under layer with the (intentional!) holes would've come with the bonkers expensive full MB panel I think.
Are they "lightning holes"? It's hard to get under there and see, but that's where my rust is visible on the panel above those holes--it doesn't look like much but it has to be a sign the same panel you pointed out needs to be replaced. The lightning hole/above portion I wonder, maybe phosphoric acid/miracle paint would be enough for the light rust I see without the entire parcel shelf redo.
 

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'87 560 SEC, Pearl Grey/blue; 300,000+ mi; '07 CLS 550, Barolo/stone; 90,000+ mi
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Replaced the SLS accumulators on my 380SEC. Fluid flush, new filter and replaced my horribly discolored reservoir with a really tidy one I picked up for a few bucks at a "u pull it" yard!
In case it helps since you're into it, Kent recommends replacing the fabric reservoir hose with a gas line type rubber hose--the fabric ones eventually weep from the inside out.
 

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I'm away having an awesome trip in the awesome car, but came to it this morning and found it had been hit. Probably by the bin lorry.

I took off the parking pole, the ignominy of a bent pole was too much.

On the plus side, I was just about to have this wing replacement and already have one. Still annoying no note left or anything, this car is a much loved classic.
Sorry to hear, Ian. Same thing happened to me with one of my cars a year ago even though I parked deliberately on the far end of the parking lot, someone hit the rear bumper/knocked out tailight and left no note, no cameras nearby, etc. It forced my hand to have the bumper repainted (which would have needed it at some point anyway) and went ahead and did the front one as well. Could have been worse.
 

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'87 560 SEC, Pearl Grey/blue; 300,000+ mi; '07 CLS 550, Barolo/stone; 90,000+ mi
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Visited both my babies in their respective bodyshops. The SEC has come on a little. It still starts perfectly. I'm SO glad I changed every fluid before it came to the shop, and have ethanol free petrol with a stability additive put in.

The 3 weeks or so without the SE has meant I've missed it. But he's doing a beautiful job, it's hard to believe how nice it'll look after all that work. I pick it up on Monday, can't wait.
Looking forward Ian, I can empathize. I had a car sit for over two months in a city 167 miles away at a body shop, and I was concerned about the fuel tank/ethanol with condensation/changes in temperature, etc. It was during late autumn/winter so I don't know if Ethanol is less of an additive then or not. Thankfully nothing mechanical seems to have been affected.
 

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Today I visited the SEC about 25 miles away at its engine rebuild/transplant location. I needed to check for water leaks, any new unwanted surprises, and lubricated the hood and door hinges/check strap/door locks with transmission fluid, and the latching mechanisms with synthetic teflon/silicon grease. I also coated the tires--virtually new but hardly used in nine months--with VHT since the car has been sitting since November. They still looked brand new, as I'm sure modern tires (Michelins in this case) have some UV and ozone inhibitors built-in. The guys were kind enough to move it just enough yesterday to prevent flat-spots.

The driver's door lock is having a heck of a time with the key unlocking and trying to lock again--it can only get worse. You have to hold the key turned while opening the handle, and it now takes too long to get it to do that. Would it be possible to completely change out the door/ignition tumblers from an SEL to SEC (using my engine donor car)?
 

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MT_Merc, great writeup. I've been having the fuse 15 issue for a long time--any chance you might have a leak getting into the wire tunnel under the driver's carpet? I disconnected the trunk radio, and some functions were restored like the ones you mentioned that are continuously on as soon as the car is cranked. I'm just wondering if that might be my problem. Where is the supply pump?
 

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'87 560 SEC, Pearl Grey/blue; 300,000+ mi; '07 CLS 550, Barolo/stone; 90,000+ mi
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It's hard to believe I have owned my 89 560SEC for 9 years. While shooting some recent photos of other cars I broke out the old gal for some updated pic's.
Enjoy, Mike
Looks terrific! Did you keep the tan vinyl door foot valances in tact under the stainless covers? When I tested/lined up mine, there is a little protruding on the top portion (but yours appears totally covered on the upper surface, at least toward the rear portion that is visible in the photo). I'm wondering if you took off any material.
 

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Yup - just got a set in myself. I didn't know they went over the existing ones, that's a wild look (haven't tried putting mine in yet since interior is being redone at the moment)

Here's a link:
https://www.formymercedes.com/mb_re...s-class&category=Illuminated+Door+Sill+Covers
Yes, that's what I was getting at earlier--if there's a way to cleanly and firmly put it in without any of the existing vinyl/aluminum strip hanging out, that would be ideal (for me). Plus, there's a rubber strip that's prone to coming loose on the vinyl sill as well. The stainless sills would need to be fully supported to prevent warping in case they get stepped on (I'm cringing at the thought of the polished metal getting marred).

Gerry (at the site above) really aims to please in my experience, and I had great communication and service back and forth with him. It seems they make the metal sills in batches every few months, so if they're currently in stock, great.

In my opinion, it gives the car a "what if" look, as the '90s accoutrements that were tastefully incorporated into the next generation vehicles.
 

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'87 560 SEC, Pearl Grey/blue; 300,000+ mi; '07 CLS 550, Barolo/stone; 90,000+ mi
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Would either Axel or Brian consider having the door, console, pillar, and dash vinyl recovered in leather (perhaps GAHH matching hides ordered by the upholstery shop of your choice)?
 
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