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U1450L DOKA
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While removing and cleaning up the Alternator, I took a closer look at the wiring for it. I had seen the double connector zip-tied to the inner fender brace, but I had sort of 'looked past it', and didn't really think about it. I assumed that it was factory UNIMOG stuff. Like the fuses, it looked like something out of a Tiger tank, and it was not impressive, so I figured it was original.
In taking a closer look, I'm convinced that it is another relec of the Spanish Imposition. There are two ~4AWG
wires that come out of the firewall and connect on the fender brace. One goes on to the Alternator, and the other connects to a wire of the same gauge that emerges from a tube that is attached to the block, from which the small wires to the Alternator also arrive.
These two large wires connect using the same 'Set Screw' type connector (near the tube), this time a single, that has been crudely cut in half from its original double form.
I'm going to re-wire this with new wires and a double terminal power post that I'll put on the firewall.
I'm just cleaning up the wiring but not changing the circuitry.
Winter is coming, and it is time to start bolting stuff back on, and stop taking things off. I have to get it running - it isn't a big deal, just reassembling stuff, not repairing anything really.
That said, I'm pretty sure that the 4 AWG wiring that I'm upgrading is not really correct. I'll put it back the way it was, connection-wise, so I know that it will work, but having the one wire emerge from the firewall just to dive back into the tube has to be a bodge-job. I'll try to figure out how it should be, and the next time the cab is tilted, hopefully I can get things back to the factory layout.
The little black wire (tachometer signal) pointed out by the arrows, is the one that is made up of four pieces of wire, just twisted together and taped up. It moves through the engine bay as if it was tied to the tail of a mouse that they let loose. That has been fixed.
In looking at photos of other UNIMOGs, I don't see the heavy alternator wire taking the same path as what my truck shows.



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1250v
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New ujoints on my left front cardigan joint. View attachment 2715717 View attachment 2715718 View attachment 2715719 View attachment 2715720 View attachment 2715721 View attachment 2715722 View attachment 2715723

I guess I didn't take pictures of the portal back on the axle. I will grab them tomorrow. I just need to change grease fittings and bolt it back together.
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The picture of it bolted on. I removed the portal with the axle shaft attached. It was a 2 person job, but it wasn't to bad to install without taking the portal apart.
 

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85' U1300L Holset Turbo VA A/C, 66' Propane 404.1 rock mog, 1975 416 Doka, G500, Volvo C303
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DokaTD, are those the "conversion" hubs for going to 8 lug?
Chas
Well no, but a conversion is happening. I’m going from 6 lug to 10 lug. Im waiting for the hubs to arrive still so until that occurs I’m going to be fairly quiet about it all. I have an alternate route if needed. I’m very excited though at the promise of it all.
 

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'88 gd240 / '85 240TD /87' 300TD / 88' flu419
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196 Posts
A couple more. On the inside of the shroud, after sanding and painting, I put a few coats of rattle-can bedliner
(Herculiner), in an attempt to seal up the edges of the layered sheet metal, and provide a little extra protection in the Air Blast Zone.
Time will tell.
Sorry about the double post of the Before photos.
Special skills at work.









View attachment 2715642 View attachment 2715643 View attachment 2715644 View attachment 2715646
Did you sandblast ? In the Netherlands we used to have stations that applied / sprayed tectyl inside the doors and other hollow spaces.. it wicks in between spot welded sheet metal.. a wax of some sort.. maybe good for preventing corrosion from in between those spotwelded areas.
Johan
 

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No on the sandblast, just a lot of work with wire wheels,
Fiber wheels, flap wheels, scotchbrite, wire ‘tooth brushes’ die grinder pads, a small screwdriver misused as a chisel, and hand sanding.
The shroud was sort of a pain because of how it is built and formed. It seemed like every time I flipped it over,
there was another area that I hadn’t touched yet.
The frame that carries the fan was worse, if anything.
It was like sanding a sketch by M.C. Escher.
We’ll see how it holds up. The rattle can bed liner seemed to seal the seams up pretty well. It can’t compete with the commercial quality of Line-X done at a shop, that is
For sure.
I just consider it an experiment, and I hope it works.
 

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Passenger side fender. It was in good shape, just surface rust. (I think that in UNIMOG land any rust that you can’t read a newspaper through is surface rust.)
There were two rusty spots on the top, where the
fender rubs against the Hydraulic Oil tank. This is very common - the used tanks that show up on EBay show the same pattern.
So, I did the sand / paint / bedliner treatment. I found
other abrasion issues under the hood, involving the air lines, and I used pieces of flexible cutting board sheets as an experimental solution.
Thin, tough, Flexible, slippery and impervious to water, I tried them out.
For the Hydro tank, I decided to put two sheets in place,
one glued to the tank itself, and one attached to the fender
with the ‘Outdoor’ Velcro. This Velcro is really great stuff, and I have found it to be equal to the manufacturer’s
claims. I decided to try two sheets, because I had enough of the stuff, and I’d find out if the glue or the Velcro held up
Better.
I like the Velcro, because the sheet ‘floats’, and there isn’t
any place for moisture to get trapped. More experiments.

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The Driver’s side- same thing, but some welding involved.
The flange on the leading edge that bolts up under the crossbar had a rust ‘boil’ in it. It is almost designed to rust.
Made of two pieces of stacked sheet metal, the edges are
open on three sides, and they face the front, so it is almost guaranteed that moisture will be forced into the gaps.
I drilled out the rust eruption with a Unibit, pried the pieces apart a little and picked and scraped the rust out.
Then I soaked it in Evapo-Rust, washed it and took it to the welding shop.
I had them weld in a plug and stitch the edges together all of the way around. Then, the usual sand and paint / bedliner process.
In general, things were a bit rattier on the driver’s side -
probably due to the effects of the prop wash from the fan.
The passenger side has the big plastic hydro tank to roadblock most of what comes through the grill.

I’ve had a bear all over the place lately. It is way too comfortable around here. I’ve seen it in person only once, but the game cams pick him up and his scat is on the lawn on all side of the house… it isn’t shy, and didn’t give much notice to me hooting and yelling at it.
Anyway, I had the fender under cover, letting the bedliner
Goop set up over night. It was a few feet from my front door.
The next morning, there were claw marks in the bed liner
And impressions of his hair as well.
I’m going to pick up some pepper balls for the paintball
Guns. If I do see him again, I’ll try and discourage him from hanging around so much. Next year will be worse if I don’t do something. Some M-80’s would be nice.



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I made a temporary bottom cup for my right hand kingpin. The truck needs to be running for Massmog this weekend so no time to wait for parts. Hopefully getting rid of that slop will make it steer better on the road!
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I’ve been making some progress on working out how to tie the upper front part of the fender to structure closer to the cowl, with the goal of having a good anchor point for the struts.
It is an interesting puzzle to solve, but I’m getting there.
The vertical struts at either side of the grill opening have
5 holes with nuts welded on the backside, and a reinforcing strap welded in as well. Two of the inserts are used to anchor the Eyes for the pins on the grill to
Register in, and a third one takes one of the bolts for the
Retro-fitted UHN grill latch.
Anyway, I’ll use all 5 to tie the vertical part of my
Boomerang. There are existing bolts
at the washer fluid reservoir and air cleaner
(passenger side) and at the cowl intake and the UHN
hood strut (driver’s side) that I’ll use to anchor the horizontal part for starters. I’ll add more if needed.
The final deal will be made of 1/8” Plate, and the Sintra
Templates are in two pieces per side. I’m not sure they’ll
stay that way, but it’ll have to do with how everything fits together. Two pieces overlapping and bolted together is the current plan.
The plan is for double-shear
 

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A.This chunk has to go, because it is in the way of the big safety hook.
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B. The horizontal pieces extend up to the top of the flange on the fender, and in that position, they are not on the same plane as the vertical legs, which is why the overlap is the simple solution.
 

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I made a temporary bottom cup for my right hand kingpin. The truck needs to be running for Massmog this weekend so no time to wait for parts. Hopefully getting rid of that slop will make it steer better on the road! View attachment 2716490
Wow, is that cause by lack of grease? Gutsy repair job..have fun at massmog.

Johan
 

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When the cabs are tilted, sometimes, for whatever reason, dents can appear near the turn indicators. The way the fenders are built, there isn't any support there, and the good sized chunk of sheet metal missing to allow for the turn indicator does not help, in my opinion.

I think it is more likely to happen with the DOKA cab, because of the extra weight and leverage, but Single cabs have had the problem as well. I think it might happen when the sheet metal is in tension, with the weight of the cab 'Pulling' to the rear and downward while tilted, but that is a guess.

The Latest Square Cabs, the UHE series, have a pair of struts that run from the firewall to the fenders. They are pretty light duty. My theory is that they were added to stiffen the fenders to prevent the dimpling problem.
That is another guess, but I don't know what else they would be for.

It is possible that moving the engine towards the rear one meter might have lead to something else cropping up that these struts are related to, but I don't think so. The firewall is more of a solid wall, without a large doghouse for the engine, just a much smaller, lower indentation.The fender structure looks the same as it is on all square cabs, outside of the struts.

The UHE has also eliminated the turn indicators from the fenders and moved them to the bumper, so the sheet metal is now solid in that area.
I might be wrong, but I think these steps were taken to mitigate the dimpling problem. The turn indicators might have moved just for a more modern light array, they had nothing to do with the dimples...or a little of both?

Right or wrong, I figured that I would see if I could make my own version, and take it a little further.
I think that the eventual metal pieces represented by the Red Sintra might go a long way to solving the problem on their own, but the struts will, hopefully, just add to the solution. If the struts that MB added solve the problem, then what I am doing should as well - if that is even what the struts are for.
Trev asked Mercedes the question, and they didn't really give an answer.

Some Photos.
The Red UHE DOKA cab shows the fender structure (essentially unchanged), and the tabs in place, but the struts are not mounted yet.
The struts are not symmetrical from side to side, due to having to work around the safety hook and the hood strut hardware. Looking at these strut photos, I'm going to move things around on the passenger side, as
I drifted off of the target a bit.




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