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U1450L DOKA
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Fumoto is another brand that has a good reputation for
Quality and comes in the M26 -1.5 size.

One consideration with these drain valves, as well
as with your modified Belmetric plug, is the thread depth
Vs. the thickness of the bell housing wall.

Ideally, the threads are flush (or a bit less) with the inside wall of the bell housing when installed.

If the threads are longer than the thickness of the wall, then the level of the fluid in the housing has to be as deep as the projecting threads before it hits the lip, and can then drain out.

Since the goal is a dry housing, machining off any excess
Thread length so they sit flush would be in order.

Using a spacer or washer to get the threads flush might
not work as well, since there would be an extra surface to seal, between the spacer and the bell housing.

It isn’t too critical, since it isn’t an oil pan, and we are not
trying to keep the oil from leaking out… in fact,
It is just the opposite, but when the valve is closed for off-roaring / fording, then any bad seal would let fluids
Leak into the housing.
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U1450L DOKA
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A technique that some guys have used when using the Fumoto valve on an oil pan is to use a hacksaw to cut grooves into the ‘extra’ threads, so the oil can drain
out ‘completely’.
They cut two grooves at 90 degrees to each other into the
Threads down to a depth that matches the inside surface of the oil pan.
They then commonly open the hacksaw kerfs up with a file to promote better flow.
This prevents the oil from pooling up to the level of the ‘extra’ threads. Their concern is that any crud in the oil
Would be in this last 3/16” (or whatever it is) at the bottom, and they want to allow it to drain out in the same way as if the stock plug was removed.
 

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U1450L DOKA
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The Fumoto valve with the M26 - 1.5 threads is Model T-207.
I just got one off of Ebay for $14.99, new in the bag.
 

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U1450L DOKA
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This is the sort of photo that catches my attention. This UNIMOG looks to be in excellent condition. The paint on the bed is an indication, the Gritter box is clean, and the plow is unusually clean - it looks freshly restored. And yet, it caught fire for some reason.

It is just sitting there, and it isn't snow season, so it wasn't working the implements, it is fair to say. It looks parked more than anything. The cab / engine is the center of the fire, as is almost always the case (based on photos), and it does not look like an external source of ignition was involved at all.

A clapped out UNMOG with sketchy wiring is one thing, but one that looks to be in prime shape going up in flames is a little sobering.



Brand-Unimog-laumat.jpg
 

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1963 Unimog 404
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This is the sort of photo that catches my attention. This UNIMOG looks to be in excellent condition. The paint on the bed is an indication, the Gritter box is clean, and the plow is unusually clean - it looks freshly restored. And yet, it caught fire for some reason.

It is just sitting there, and it isn't snow season, so it wasn't working the implements, it is fair to say. It looks parked more than anything. The cab / engine is the center of the fire, as is almost always the case (based on photos), and it does not look like an external source of ignition was involved at all.

A clapped out UNMOG with sketchy wiring is one thing, but one that looks to be in prime shape going up in flames is a little sobering.



View attachment 2698604
Did you mean to post this in "Artsy Truck Photos"? 🤣
 

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U1450L DOKA
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Naw, just my usual free-form (undisciplined) posting - it is related to the fire extinguisher shot and comments from a few posts ago.
 

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1987 Unimog SEE
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It is just sitting there, and it isn't snow season, so it wasn't working the implements, it is fair to say. It looks parked more than anything. The cab / engine is the center of the fire, as is almost always the case (based on photos), and it does not look like an external source of ignition was involved at all.

A clapped out UNMOG with sketchy wiring is one thing, but one that looks to be in prime shape going up in flames is a little sobering.
We had a GMC truck, parked outside, in which a critter made a nest on the engine in the 2 weeks it was parked. Someone started it up, walked into the house for coffee and came out to it fully in flames. If it’s a crappy vehicle, they might have caught it because they would have had to check the oil before starting.
 

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The Fumoto T-207 Drain came quickly from Kihei, Hawaii.
I pulled the bell housing drain plug, and it and the inside of the housing were dry as a bone.
The face of the drain plug had a layer of what looked like
chimney soot. I am not sure what it was- clutch material
dust, maybe. It didn’t smell like clutch friction material,
it was just like soot.
Anyway, I cleaned the plug up and made some measurements.
The Fumoto drain is very close to being flush, but I’ll file some channels into it anyway.
The measurements for the plug and the drain are of the
Effective thread length, with the washers in place.

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85' U1300L Holset Turbo VA A/C, 66' Propane 404.1 rock mog, 1975 416 Doka, G500, Volvo C303
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Decided to finally instal some door wire bellows on the 1300L today. Had wired just poking out of 1/8” holes previously. Borrowed these from the older G wagons. Bought a pair from EI.
2700265
2700266
 

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'76 1300L,HE351CW,H15P Winches,Konis,Hydraulics,All Gears,10mm Plungers,Aftercooler,Lots of Littles
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Ask not what you can do for your UNIMOG today, but what you can do for your UNIMOG tomorrow.

C.
 

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1988 U1300L RW1 Working gears Dual Tanks AC Rigged for Camping Plus: 91 F250 HD 4x4
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Ask not what you can do for your UNIMOG today, but what you can do for your UNIMOG tomorrow.

C.
Based on the piece count, I am presuming these parts are destined for one of the extremely rare Uni-mog-tricycles. (a Triunimog, perhaps?), with a dual caliper front wheel (aids in the pitching moment, driver dismount).

I understand they have a phenomenally tight turning radius.

Could be wrong of course........

Lee
 

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'76 1300L,HE351CW,H15P Winches,Konis,Hydraulics,All Gears,10mm Plungers,Aftercooler,Lots of Littles
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Alas it is not for a rare DeiradMog.

Nor is it for the rarer DreifachradMog.

It is for the BlauerMog.

And the piece count of the actual order is even more confusing, but I digress.

One rear wheel caliper hasn’t arrived yet, it replaces the fahrerseite one. The Beifahrerseite rear wheel caliper and disc is new 2 years hence. But it will get the new soft pads now also.

C.
 

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'76 Case MB4/94, '76 U1500 Ag Spec.
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No pics handy, but slowly stripping apart the U1300 cab for disassembly, and blasting to determine future work.... Of course, the order of operations for taking things apart aren't always clear. How do you get the wiring harness out from the passenger side headlight, horn, turn signal and windshield washer pump? Oh, start by taking off the air compressor for the engine, so you can then get the hydraulic tank out, air filter housing, and now you can get the harness the rest of the way out. Not that it matter that much, it mostly all has to come apart eventually.
 
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