Mercedes-Benz Forum banner
601 - 620 of 658 Posts

·
Registered
U1450L DOKA
Joined
·
11,873 Posts
And now, a different thing. In looking the air duct
that connects to the cowl vent and channels air into
the Heater / Defroster / Blower…
I wondered about the two ‘dead ends’ that are
Molded into the duct.
My guess is that they could be particulate traps, so sand
and dust (and water, maybe) might settle out and
not enter through the dash vent.
The lower one, before the outlet could conceivably
Function that way, but the upper one, on the far side
of the outlet, well, it is harder to imagine that working
as well, or at all.
Alternatively, you could cut the ends off of the dead-ends,
and add hoses to allow for additional air intakes,
Possibly remotely mounted in some clean air, higher
up, filtered….something ?
Does anybody know for sure ?

72D2803F-A8D0-4C5A-ABE3-2F1EEB385221.jpeg
8668B1BB-78D8-47BE-8FEF-F611208B8CBE.jpeg
AFECE7A4-F72D-4F6F-881F-8A6FF703F9BE.jpeg
 

·
Registered
U1450L DOKA
Joined
·
11,873 Posts
I have a new iPhone, and it is acting very weird, and especially on Benzworld, and especially when it comes to posting and double posting photos....And I get incessant prompts to "do you want to Download
" (Omit).txt.js"? This prompt, which research shows to be a gateway to Hell if downloaded, will hammer my phone while I am trying to load and post photos, while on other sites, it does not show up.

It takes a series of 5 or 6 deletes to get rid of the pop-up, and then a moment later, it pops up again. "Settings" has the Pop-up blocker activated, etc...

When posting from the laptop, things are normal.

I've read that the cure is to drop the iPhone 12 Pro into a pot of boiling water for 20 minutes, but I'm not so sure about that. Maybe if I add a little Bleach? Toilet Bowl Cleaner ?

I have been very careful and methodical when posting photos from the new phone, watching my big fingers closely, and yet, photos double up, don't post, post as thumbs...
The Phone - It is not right in its brand new head....
 

·
Registered
U1450L DOKA
Joined
·
11,873 Posts
As far as the air duct, I suppose it is possible that the higher dead end at the far end could be a particulate trap, if the velocity of the air ( in a UNIMOG heater system ?) carried airborne junk past the intake and deposited it
there.
Also, if tapped as an additional inlet, the lower dead end is
pointed the wrong way, towards the cowl, and
away from the intake.
 

·
Registered
U1450L DOKA
Joined
·
11,873 Posts
So, I spent an hour or two on other websites,
And the ‘Do you Want…” prompts never
Appeared.
I come back to Benzworld, and within 1 minute,
I’m being bombarded with this attack.
Anybody else having this ?
I can’t see how it is the phone, since other websites don’t ever have the issue….
 

·
Registered
U1450L DOKA
Joined
·
11,873 Posts
Thanks for the tip on the Royal Mail. They aren’t interested, it is €120 per package to the US, and that is it. I’ll find them, eventually.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Installed a new starter motor as bump starting a U1700 gets old quickly ;)
The original one hung and blew itself to pieces when the big diesel started to drive the starter instead of the other way around. Weird but can happen I guess.
 

·
Registered
1987 U1300L, 270+/- HP, turbo upgrade, Intercooled, high HP injector nozzles, exhaust brake
Joined
·
58 Posts
Replaced my master cylinder and bled the clutch. No sexy pictures.
 

·
Registered
U1450L DOKA
Joined
·
11,873 Posts
More little things.
Wooden patterns to dial in the passenger side foot
Rest. It fits well now, and aluminum tubing will
Replace the wood.
The hose for the windshield washer came in, two versions from online, as I could not find the right size in town.
Waiting on stainless hardware for that. It’ll be nice to have all four of the jets unclogged and spritzing.
And, wiring stuff. I don’t like the corrugated split loom,
So all of that will be gone, except c for the one piece that wraps the EGT probe lead, maybe.
Everything that is screwed into the fuse blocks will come
Loose again, and I’ll trim and route the wires so it is neater,
Reset the fuses…Etc.
Eventually, the plan is to make a kick panel that covers the fuse blocks and everything.
There are two wads of relays, 5 in total, that are loose. They are all part of the 2nd AC system, and were installed in Spain. I’ll wait until the new relay sockets show up to
Worry about that stuff. Lots of electrical tape, and when
I unwound some of it, I came across the wire to wire
Double twist connection. There are maybe 6 or 8
More of them, so I’ll fix all of that later. It is a perfectly
Solid connection, although funky, but they have to go.

Und nun, das ‘Zexy’ fotos.

023C92C1-763D-4132-946A-444696613BFB.jpeg
A594BBE6-ED4C-4E6F-93A0-B4F1ABB1D180.jpeg
499989C9-4B58-4F5B-AFA0-8546587A26BB.jpeg
6F3AC714-2A5B-49D6-9A0B-4AF0B97943FB.jpeg
D8122A60-6371-49F1-94BA-F55DEEBDF899.jpeg
7CE30044-608B-4223-AF99-A6CBBE087481.jpeg
2172EAAF-C468-4954-8F1C-F87A9827FBAD.jpeg
0F2DB8D4-6830-4C8E-A36C-6EF20FD7398B.jpeg
4596117D-7E03-4593-9212-1E3EF53C5626.jpeg
F2FBC9CC-77FA-480C-A0AA-344AD291F92E.jpeg
 

·
Registered
Unimog 416 163
Joined
·
88 Posts

·
Registered
U1450L DOKA
Joined
·
11,873 Posts
I will check into that, thanks for the tip.

I think that I may have it solved. The source in the Netherlands actually ships from Latvia. I asked if they would Combine the shipping cost, and they said sure, and
‘If you buy two, we’ll give you the third one for free’
so that makes it pretty reasonable. I found a couple of sources in Germany with similar pricing to the UK
Listing, but they have not responded with shipping quotes yet. They probably won’t - Not shipping to the US
Is pretty common, although I didn’t see that restriction
In these cases.
For anybody else that might be looking for these
For their UNIMOG, the brand name that works
Is : Herth & Buss, and the item to search for
Is a ‘relais sockel’, also listed as one word -
‘Relaissockel’.
Note the steep shipping on the 2nd one.


DAD9DAFB-253C-47BE-9E5E-37237D017837.jpeg
F6EFD2CA-D79C-4CB5-A4CC-5D972029E246.jpeg
FCBE6ACC-29B2-4C47-88F7-91B533CBB126.png
C5FC6829-F849-42A7-9135-E7C2E35B630C.png
 

·
Registered
Unimog 416 163
Joined
·
88 Posts
I will check into that, thanks for the tip.

I think that I may have it solved. The source in the Netherlands actually ships from Latvia. I asked if they would Combine the shipping cost, and they said sure, and
‘If you buy two, we’ll give you the third one for free’
so that makes it pretty reasonable. I found a couple of sources in Germany with similar pricing to the UK
Listing, but they have not responded with shipping quotes yet. They probably won’t - Not shipping to the US
Is pretty common, although I didn’t see that restriction
In these cases.
For anybody else that might be looking for these
For their UNIMOG, the brand name that works
Is : Herth & Buss, and the item to search for
Is a ‘relais sockel’, also listed as one word -
‘Relaissockel’.
Note the steep shipping on the 2nd one.


View attachment 2697305 View attachment 2697306 View attachment 2697307 View attachment 2697308
[/QUOTE
 

·
Registered
U1450L DOKA
Joined
·
11,873 Posts
Two more terminal blocks. There are 12 switches to the left of the steering wheel, so the left hand strip is accounted for.
The temperature sensors for the portals take two wires each, so the 4 corners will take up 8 of the 12 spaces on the right hand block.
And there is one available switch to the right of the steering wheel.
I think I’ll run a ‘utility player’ sensor that I can stick
on the transmission, the overdrive, and the differentials
To do checks on them. I plan on a real temperature probe for the transmission, but in the meantime the utility player
can take a look. So that is 10 wires for temp sensors, but
4 will be in the rear, so the right hand strip is half full.
The leads from the rear portals will probably come
Into the cab through the fittings in the back wall, and break on a terminal strip under the back seat, where there is lots of room.
Most every photo I have of the ‘New’ SBU dash
Shows very few of the 12 dash switches installed.
When there are switches there, they are often simple
Toggles or aftermarket switches installed in the rubber
Plugs. The Mercedes switches are expensive for
A switch… about $40 each last time I bought some,
so it is understandable that other switches are used
when circuits are added.
I’ve never seen a photo of a UNIMOG with all 12
of the switches in place, and I wonder what Mercedes
does as far as wiring them all up?
There is very little room to work with behind the
Instrument panel without any switches installed.
I’d be curious to see what the factory rats nest
might look like.
Using the space under the glovebox is the only
Solution I could see if I wanted to keep the connections
Within the dash.
So, all of the grounds are common, and they are near the
Factory fuse blocks. I ran 24 wires, in groups of 8,
in 3 PVC sleeves across the top of the dash to
The glove box area.
Of the 12 switches, I have 10 of them assigned.
“Slowly I Turned, step by step…”


DB269077-08E2-4964-87A5-6DEF24657A0D.jpeg
3B0A78B6-9FB3-4653-802A-CF39329C5C82.jpeg
 

·
Registered
U1450L DOKA
Joined
·
11,873 Posts
Like watching an ant farm in 4th grade. Little things
move incrementally every day. Well, some days.

The extinguisher is just leaning in there, for a test fit.
I have so many photos of burning or burnt UNIMOGs,
I’m a little spooked. Mowing Debris, electrical short,
High pressure fuel leak, Low pressure fuel leak, running into high voltage lines with your crane inadvertently in the up position, Saboteurs….it does not matter. Something or another has caused A good number of UNIMOGs to flame up.
I’m determined to have on-board extinguishers easily accessible. Maybe 3 or 4 of these little dinks, and a pair of the big ones. It would be a bad day to see it cooking off and not be able to do anything about it.
I’ve got plenty of room to mount them, so I’m going to use it.
There are some reasonably priced options for the race car type system, where you pull a handle which activates the relatively large bottle via cables, so the engine compartment floods. This probably isn’t necessary, but I'm
Looking into it just to see if it makes sense on my truck.

More of the snooze fest photos.

FC827D51-6DDF-45AB-B1F1-CF336BFEEEEE.jpeg
6855084F-8F29-4193-B02B-F1529495DFA3.jpeg
63232F65-6A58-495C-ABCD-BE7E341C89DF.jpeg
22964DBC-B315-4ACE-9316-884C9DF2FB98.jpeg
0C2EB03F-25B6-44FF-BA1B-C0A61AD8476A.jpeg
 

·
Registered
U1450L DOKA
Joined
·
11,873 Posts
Oh, on the subject of fire extinguishers-
A Public Service Announcement:
Kidde has had a large scale recall going on for
Extinguishers that look similar to the one above.
They probably publicized it well, but it was news to me until recently.
Their website has all of the particulars. They’ll send you a replacement. It is straightforward.
Maybe I’m the only guy that didn’t know about it…
That is certainly possible.
 

·
Registered
1988 U1300L RW1 Working gears Dual Tanks AC Rigged for Camping Plus: 91 F250 HD 4x4
Joined
·
397 Posts
There has been some discussion of clutch housing sealing vs. draining here. After 5k miles that I have put on my truck, it occurred to me that I should check the status of my clutch housing vis-a-vis accumulated liquids. Somewhat inspired by a tiny oil drip spot showing up on the shop floor in that general vicinity. Pulled the drain plug, and caught about a tablespoon of very dirty black oil coming out. Got inspired, and used a bent weld wire wrapped in shop rag to try and reach in a clean the bottom of the housing. Then got really inspired, and made a 90 degree curved hose end for a small syringe, unloaded some BrakeKleen into a little vial, sucked it up and gently squirted it into the bottom of the housing. Left that for a minute, then used the hook-rag to clean. Repeat, all good.

Further mental effort resulted in getting a new steel hex drain plug (M26 x 1.5, from Bel-Metric), along with a new copper washer. Drilled and tapped for 1/4" FPT.
2698321


Went to the pipe fitting bin, and grabbed a 1/4" x 2" SS schedule 80 nipple, and did a bit of modifying.
Post-cut / pre-weld (Solar Flux on the inside, ready to weld) :
2698323


Done here:

2698326


Pulled a 1/4" FPT brass ball valve from the bin, and put everything together:

2698327


2698328


There is method to the madness. A straight down valve looked like it could possible be hit by the drag link, under extreme articulation, hence the aim forward with the 45 degree ell angle. This could be done much easier with a brass street 45 and a 1/4" M x F NPT valve, but I simply cobbled what I already had on hand.

Now, I can run the highways, knowing there will be no rising liquid level to foul the flywheel and clutch. When I hit the boonies, it is an easy thing to reach under and close the valve; no water in this housing, if you please. Truth be told, the volume of oil after the 5k miles would probably all be held in my long custom nipple, FWIW. All in good fun, and some utility value as well.

Lee
 

·
Registered
U1450L DOKA
Joined
·
11,873 Posts
Your solution got me thinking and I remembered something similar that is built for a different purpose, but that should work well In that spot.
The EZ oil drain valve comes in the M26 -1.5 thread
size, and it does not project from the hole very far.
$24 online.
You can get various fittings to take drain hoses, and there are 90 degree elbows, caps, and so on, but just the valve
would seem to be the best and have the best clearance.

69BCB9AB-3D7A-4071-915D-8DA24C4BBA37.jpeg
D65255CE-3050-4CAD-B7DF-9842B864BCCB.jpeg
663A71AF-9A3B-4015-AC0C-BE0A9C591B13.jpeg
E0B220DF-BCF6-4A8E-AEE1-71CDB48972DA.jpeg
4602CB99-1BEC-4BAA-AC0C-B25865EECE84.jpeg
 
601 - 620 of 658 Posts
Top