Mercedes-Benz Forum banner
581 - 600 of 692 Posts

·
Registered
U1450L DOKA
Joined
·
12,048 Posts
Since things were pretty much out of the way,
I did a test fit with the passenger side bender-
Fender strut.
I made little brackets out of cardboard and wood with
A magnet , etc.
I plan on a double shear mounting at each end.
The firewall is straightforward, the fender is a little more
Involved.
Fishing organic material out of the inside of the fender in the slot... I flooded it with the nozzle and flush stuff out the gap in the front corner, but after it dries up
I’ll go after it with a small rigid tube on the shop
Vac.
Cleaning the contacts on the washer fluid pump,
Etc.
Musical instrument White Hood Guitar accessory Motor vehicle
Hood Motor vehicle Electrical wiring Automotive exterior Wire
Motor vehicle Hood Light Blue Automotive tire
White Bicycle handlebar Motor vehicle Bicycle tire Bicycle fork
Wood Gesture Finger Material property Wrist
Wood Gadget Audio equipment Cable Wood stain
Gas Tints and shades Fixture Wood Human leg
Textile Creative arts Pattern Art Electric blue
Tire Automotive tire Bicycle handlebar Bicycle tire Vehicle
Wheel Bicycle tire Tire Automotive tire Bicycle wheel
 

·
Registered
'76 1300L,HE351CW,H15P Winches,Konis,Hydraulics,All Gears,10mm Plungers,Aftercooler,Lots of Littles
Joined
·
3,147 Posts
OK, I think I missed something. What is this sweet looking strut for?

C.
 

·
Registered
U1450L DOKA
Joined
·
12,048 Posts
On the UHE UNIMOGs, the factory added similar struts. Interestingly, these struts appeared after the trucks first rolled out. I have not pinned down the time frame, but it seems that they were sold for months, or maybe a year or more, and then the Struts appeared.
My theory is that they are there to stabilize the upper front corner of the fender, in order to prevent the cab fenders from dimpling in that area during the cab tilting procedure. Mercedes won't say - Trev asked them directly and got a non-answer.

I don't know what else they would be for, but in any event, I decided to copy them, but make them a little stouter than what the factory did. My green UNIMOG dimpled when the cab was lifted by a shop, and I don't want to have it happen to my current truck. It seems DOKAs are more susceptible to the damage, but single cabs have had the problem as well.

Whatever their motivation, their struts (tubes with flattened ends) are fastened to sheet metal tabs that have been added to the fenders and the lip of the cowl. I assume that Mercedes studied the issue (or some issue) and engineered a solution, but their research apparently dictated a fairly lightweight solution. So, I figured that if I upped the scale of my struts and mounts, then I could achieve what they did, but have a little more leeway in my placement, and still achieve the same level of strength, or better.

Sheet Metal tabs make sense in the factory, where they can be added via spot welding or a new stamping, but that approach does not work so well for the home builder.

My fender mounts and my cowl mounts will be located in the same places as the factory mounts, as seen in a plan view.
The primary difference is that I will be through-bolting to the firewall rather than dealing with the lip of the cowl, with the air intake tube for the heater/ defroster/vent and so on. It would be more complicated to work around that tube and get the mounts up along the lip of the hood opening, but they would not be any stronger, probably the opposite because I'd have to be using sheet metal to work around that vent tube. I decided to lower the cowl mounts and go straight to the firewall.
This solution isn't readily available to the factory because of the gack that is in the way on the UHE.

The factory struts are not symmetrical, because the safety hook / hood strut structure on the driver's side gets in the way.
It will be the same on my truck.

Vehicle Car Vehicle registration plate Motor vehicle Hood
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Motor vehicle Hood
Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior Hood Vehicle
Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Bumper Automotive design Automotive exterior
Auto part Composite material Metal Bicycle part Fashion accessory
Hood Automotive tire Material property Motor vehicle Tire
Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior
Slope Rectangle Font Parallel Drawing
Material property Office supplies Bicycle part Tool Font
Triangle Wood Automotive design Hood Automotive exterior
 

·
Registered
U1450L DOKA
Joined
·
12,048 Posts
These photos show the approximate differences between the right and the left side fender mounts for the struts.

It is the large hook of the safety latch that is the issue. It has a large
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Asphalt Road surface Wood
Automotive tire Hood Grille Motor vehicle Bumper
swing and it would hit the strut on its way to the lip where it latches. I made a template to see what it would take to keep the driver's side mount symmetrical with the passenger side. It could work, but it requires a large 'window' in the bracket for the hook to enter, and it would push the
mounting point of the strut several inches away from the fender, and the window would add a hurdle to latching and unlatching the hook.It wpould be a bit of a mess.
Changing the angle and mounting the strut just uphill and adjacent to the hood strut/ safety hook was the way to go, so I'm copying their approach.
As an aside, the fender mounted bracket for the Strut / Hook is very solidly mounted, even though it is only mounted to
the fender sheet metal.
 

·
Registered
U1450L DOKA
Joined
·
12,048 Posts
Not much today. Chopped the relays out, etc.
Re-mounted the A/C hoses. These things go all of the way to the right rear corner, up inside the cab corner
and then all of the way to the front above the windshield to the upper A/C unit. The system is still holding a charge, presumably from Spain years ago.

I replaced a thru-bolt and a sheet metal screw
(relay mount) with 6mm nurserts which makes it easier when working alone on something like a firewall.

I was tempted to use an existing 6mm nut
Welded to the firewall, as it is in a perfect spot.
It is buried behind the filter when that is installed,
However, and the hoses can only be tied to the upper right clamp in order for the cab to tilt. The lower clamp
Is exposed , so removing it to free the hoses up for
Tilting will be easy.

The more useful information maybe is that when I used the claw and the shop vac today to clean out any remaining Leaves and crud from the fender slot, there was Absolutely nothing left after I flushed it out for a good period of time yesterday.

That would indicate that it is a good preventative
technique . A wad of wet leaves, mud and crud is
A breeding ground for rust, and being completely out of sight makes it worse.

I’ll do the claw and vac process on the other side to see
What I’ve got, then I’ll hose that out too.
The water leaks out across the bottom of the fender,
But there is a larger drain opening towards the front , so
Sweeping the debris forward with a jet stream
Worked for me.
Zzzzzzz.
I know.
Automotive tire Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Bumper
Bicycle handlebar Bicycle tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bicycle part
Product Electrical wiring Automotive design Motor vehicle Cable
Automotive tire Bicycle tire Tire Bicycle handlebar Bag
 

·
Premium Member
U1000Ag
Joined
·
2,639 Posts
I think you missed a spot :D
 
  • Like
Reactions: TRUKTOR

·
Registered
U1450L DOKA
Joined
·
12,048 Posts
I did - a few of them, but the Purple Power and the toothbrush eventually got them. There will be plenty more when I go after the other side of the truck, I'm sure.
Fixture Gas Tints and shades Vehicle door Machine
Product Electrical wiring Motor vehicle Automotive design Cable
 

·
Registered
U1450L DOKA
Joined
·
12,048 Posts
Some progress, but I’ve been busy with other things.
(Quick restoration on a blacksmith-forged wall lamp, etc)

Got the flange that the air cleaner housing mounts to
Ready for paint. For a small item, it has a lot of surface
Area, contours and corners... so it took a while.
Picked up stainless hardware for everything, I think,
and new window washer hose. Clear, as the original,
As I have not found the black vinyl tubing locally yet.

The touch up paint was delivered and I have to say
It is a perfect match. 7305 lichtgrau. Listed as a
Mercedes AXOR color 1985-2016. It made quick work
A few nicks under the hood and a couple on the door edges.
Chopped out the relay and extended the wiring to get
All of that to the glovebox area.
There were two wires that came through separate holes in the A-pillar without any grommets. No big deal, as the wires were in PVC loom / sheathing, but for an off road vehicle, spend a few pennies and do it right. What do you want for a couple a hundred thousand?(Price when new).
Just little stuff.

Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle door Automotive design
Sleeve Automotive tire Personal protective equipment Bicycle part Human leg
Helmet Automotive tire Motor vehicle Rim Bicycle part
Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior
Font Material property Wood Electronic device Gadget
Liquid Lighting Fluid Drink Font
Automotive lighting Hood Automotive design Vehicle Motor vehicle
Building Lamp Wood Couch Comfort
Helmet Automotive tire Motor vehicle Rim Bicycle part
Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior
Font Material property Wood Electronic device Gadget
Liquid Lighting Fluid Drink Font
Automotive lighting Hood Automotive design Vehicle Motor vehicle
Building Lamp Wood Couch Comfort
 

·
Registered
U1450L DOKA
Joined
·
12,048 Posts
More micro steps. Air filter flange painted, the
Deteriorated foam seal was replaced with a
better foam, and it was re-/installed.
The washer fluid tank was cleaned up days ago.
The outside was easy, but there was a tide-
Line on the inside that was a little stubborn.
It looked like it had been parked for a period of time with the washer fluid at a static level, maybe while sitting at MEREX waiting on me...
Anyway, Purple Power bounced off of it, as did
CLR, so while doing household cleaning chores
I had a thought ....and I tried it. The blue Lysol
Toilet bowl cleaner. I filled it up with that and water
And let it sit for a few days, and with a little bottle brush work, it was sparkling and oh so fresh.

I found muddy critter tracks up on the bumper
Supports and frame on the driver’s side.
A marmot, no doubt. They’re already on the
‘Shoot on Sight’ order, and justifiably so.
Today I saw a little nibble on the hose clamp insulation.
Grrr....
I sighted in my Granny’s .22 a few days ago
(Scope mounts had loosened up...), so it is back to its
Tack-driving self.
Click, bang.... it’s coming, you fat rat.

Anyway, Von would have probably re-done all of the
Brake lines on a 416 in the time I’ve spent under
The hood, but I am getting somewhere, at least.

The wires are loose in the footprint photo - I’ve
Got loose stuff all over the front of this thing,
But they are just a few zip-ties away from being
Set.




Gesture Glove Helmet Fashion accessory Auto part
Automotive tire Bumper Automotive exterior Audio equipment Automotive wheel system
Automotive tire Automotive lighting Hood Alloy wheel Motor vehicle
Automotive lighting Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design
Tire Hood Bicycle tire Bicycle frame Automotive tire
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Gas Automotive exterior
 

·
Registered
U1450L DOKA
Joined
·
12,048 Posts
I’m looking for a little help. I re-finished the original
Rack for the relays that lives under the glove box.
Five relays are in place, with three open spots.

I’m looking for the original type of sockets, so I can
Fill out the rack with relays that I will be moving.

Now, I have found two sources for them, both in Europe.
In the Netherlands, the price is a bit steep,
And in the UK, while the unit price is fair
(£2.19 ~ $3.09 USD), the shipping is out of line
At $146.72.
The original has the MB star, and nothing on it
From Bosch, Hella, Siemens, etc.
I would think that this ‘snap in’ socket was probably used
Across portions of the Mercedes range, and not just
on UNIMOGs….

So, I’m still looking, but hopefully someone might
know of a North American source for MB electrical
Components that I have not stumbled across.

I almost sprung for 3 of them from the source in the
Netherlands, until I found the much more reasonable unit
price in the UK.





Circuit component Hardware programmer Electronic engineering Finger Electrical wiring
Bumper Office equipment Material property Gas Machine
Hood Automotive tire Finger Vehicle Electrical wiring
Rectangle Automotive exterior Toy Auto part Font
Font Gas Rectangle Auto part Machine
Font Camera Flash photography Camera lens Monochrome photography
Font Material property Screenshot Technology Electronic device
Bumper Office equipment Material property Gas Machine
Rectangle Automotive exterior Toy Auto part Font
Font Gas Rectangle Auto part Machine
 

·
Premium Member
U1000Ag
Joined
·
2,639 Posts
I had AV ship my small items via Royal Mail - reliable and low cost - I would ask about shipping via Royal mail....
 
  • Like
Reactions: TRUKTOR
581 - 600 of 692 Posts
Top