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85' U1300L Holset Turbo VA A/C, 66' Propane 404.1 rock mog, 1975 416 Doka, G500, Volvo C303
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5,009 Posts
Probably won’t post a complete thread. Honestly not sure how exciting it will really be. My truck is virtually rust free so it will mostly be some sanding and paint while replacing all the seals end such. But who knows.
 

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U1000Ag
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2,296 Posts
Clutch reservoir hose

I am still catching up with some minor repairs. Last week I decided to tackle the clutch reservoir hose that was starting to show its age.

After much digging it appears there is a common issue with remote reservoir set ups. People often change the hose only to find it starts bleeding after a while. It turns out part shops have been supplying fuel and vacuum hose to customers under the false impression it is brake fluid safe. Not so, it requires good quality EPDM hose which, is surprisingly difficult to find - esp in metric sizes.

My size is 7mm ID, 3mm wall thickness and this also what has been use on older VW's. Made by Continental - part no N203501. Used to be blue, but now only in black. Some shops still have blue if you shop around. But, beware of age ! No point putting 20yr hose in there :devil

I would also advise against using 1/4" hose - I suspect some shops will offer this as suitable. The spigots are 8mm and therefore 1/4" will be seriously stressed given the barbs are close to 9mm.

So, new hose, good clean, new cap, new fluid and another job done :smile
Blue shrink tubing on end is just to contain fraying of the braid.
 

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1986 U1300L Expedition Camper
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424 Posts
For those on the other side of the pond in NA, Belmetric sells the same hose by the meter. Just search for part number N203501 and it should come up.
 

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Unimog Case MB4/94 1980 406
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54 Posts
The original blue hose is a little harder to come by these days because Continental is no longer importing it. They only offer the black cloth braided version.

The third option has a smooth rubber exterior. All are suitable for brake fluid and have an ID of 7mm

Thank you logonWheeler
 

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1970 Unimog 406 was VF3 Snowcutter
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138 Posts
Re-cored the radiator and diagnosed a non functioning heater motor, turns out it wasn't grounding probably due to all the rust on the heater box.

The radiator wasn't leaking but there must have been 50lbs of stones lodged in between the fins of the radiator, and part of it had been repaired by the previous owner. Never overheated or leaked but didn't want to chance it anymore. Original core was a non-staggered, 3 row, 53 tube unit as far as I know it was the original core. Replaced it with a staggered core, 3 row, 60 tube unit so slightly more coolant capacity.

For some reason mice love to build nests inside the engine compartment right above the heater so all their treasures end up in the heater box. This is probably due to the rubber covering the exit hole for the coolant tubes deteriorating, this will be replaced while I am at it.

Had the heater core pressure tested and painted while I had the heater box out.

Figured I would post some pictures of areas of a mog we don't usually see, back side of heater and heater box nook, before and after of the radiator.
 

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1970 Unimog 406 was VF3 Snowcutter
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138 Posts
Milled a new throttle stop out of brass got tired of breaking the plastic ones.
Test fit chains for a snow trip
Fitted a new heater duct and register to the passenger side
Installed re-cored rad and tested it truck settled at 160°F and didn't budge, but it was a pretty cool day (relatively speaking), previous rad would always run at 180°F peaking up to 210°F on long hot uphills.
Installed new V belts
 

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2015 Rubicon Unlimited (Let the shame be upon me!)
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3,755 Posts
If you find you have some tension issues with the old chains a good trick I've found is to take some pressure out of the tire, mount the chain and tension it up and then refill the tire back top operating pressure. Worn tires and stretched chains can be a recipe for rage.
 

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Vehicle: 1397 Portative Organ Normally Aspirated....U411, U2450,463 300GD
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1,499 Posts
Hey there Mog70-I've been out of the 406 thing for a while but couldn't you sell those brass stops? Quite a few of those 406's around. I don't know how many hours you spent on it...but they look good!
 

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1988 U1300
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52 Posts
Progress

The front bumper ends and headlight protectors of this ex-firetruck were white, and the red fenders were quite banged up with a number of holes
drilled into the top for small side lights and brush guards. Also a few dents and wrinkles. The fenders were repaired and everything has been painted black. I've a bit of touch up to do on the front frame area where the bumper ends attach so I'll wait for warmer weather to install these.
 

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'91 427.110 '02 405.230
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3,384 Posts
I finally replaced backrest and seat cushion of my driver seat.
First I thought about having the seat re-upholstered, as I did with my U1250.
It wasn't cheap anyway, so then I thought, I could try , based on EPC, order the backrest from local (Edmonton) MB dealership.
Well, it turned out it wasn't available, so I thought about direct manufacturer - ISRI (ISRINGHAUSEN INC).
Sure enough I found an ISRI dealer in Alberta. Great, let's support local business then.
Back and forth with emails and phone calls and here we are.
The old backrest, which was very disfigured, mostly on lumbar part with big dip, was replaced with new one, that came with additional right hand armrest,
and mechanical adjustment, for lumbar support. Then I got seat cushion to match backrest.
The head rest stayed old and slides perfectly into the new backrest.
No modifications were required in the process.

new seat 1.jpg
new seat 2.jpg
new seat 3.jpg
 

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1965 404, 1980 MB4/94, 1981 416 Doka, 1983 240D, 1999 E55, 2000 ML55
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604 Posts
Well I did this yesterday.

I took a buddy for a drive around the yard then lost my brakes because the fluid went all over the wheel somehow.

Yeah I know about the lug nut. Hehe
 

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U1450L DOKA
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9,589 Posts
Well, it was not today...it has been a while.

I think I mentioned that I spent a couple of days moving the 24V -12V converter panel out of the jockey box and up into the front bay on the Head Wound Box, in order to get it up above any likely water levels I might encounter. It'll get a detachable lexan (or mudflap, probably) shield to prevent cargo from getting into the electrical bits , causing sparks and other grief.

That front compartment is open all the way across, which is just under 7', so it is good for storing long things, as well as a lot of whatever.
I was thinking of the tool storage that I've seen on some fire trucks, so I thought I'd use the side walls to store some implements of destruction.
A couple of shovels, a Pulaski, a single jack, a bow saw, some pry bars, a hatchet, the strut for the cab tilt, a broom, a machete, etc.

Using Quick Fists (sounds like a Kung Fu Movie),through bolted with stainless hardware, it worked out. The tools don't take up much room, they are secure, and all in one place.

I realize that it is trendy to hang shovels, axes, and other manly things on the outside of your vehicles these days, but I don't like to leave tools outside in general . I try to keep stuff out of the weather, plus in the back of my mind I think about the neer-do-well pondering an odd, large truck with a Mercedes Star on it.....and, hey look, there is a big Axe right there on the side of it.....so handy that they left me a way to bash my way in...how could I resist....? Maybe I watch too many crime shows.

I also re-wired the winch for the spare tire, lubed the jib arm for it, rewired the exterior area lights and cleaned them all up, fresh bulbs, etc.
The clearance lights got the same treatment, and I re-did the rotating beacon. The mast was re-painted and re-wired, and it works fine, but I still plan on replacing the head unit with a fresh one.

I Refurbished the plow lights, etc.

I had an ongoing problem with the left tail lamp - it kept blowing the running light filament on it. I figured it was shorting somewhere along the wiring leading up to the lamp, but I could not track it down. I finally decided to explore the lamp itself, and it was pretty easy to spot. I fixed that and did the same preventative fix on the right side, so that is that.

I'm not too impressed with the Hella taillights. They are not what I'd call robust, they are pretty dim, they don't seal very well....New LEDs are on the list.


OK for now.

These are all micro projects. Other guys have cut out and re-welded in a whole new floor, rebuilt their engines and all sorts of stuff in the meantime, and I've put new bulbs in...and painted a couple of things...eh...
 

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U1450L DOKA
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9,589 Posts
Some more junk.
Rigged the doors on the box so they could be used as shelves, or dropped down.
Cut the rear fenders down, and centered them on on the centerline of the tires, started plotting aluminum boxes for underneath the back of the box.
Decided that putting XM-47's on the Subaru was probably more work than it was worth, and I was concerned about the gearing off of the line, so scrapped that project.

If I posted any of this stuff before, oops.
 

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1976 406 w/ backhoe and dozer blade, a small collection of implements too
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1,416 Posts
Very nice set up Truktor. Been ages since we've seen the Headwound box and your rig. I like what you've done a lot.
 

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U1000Ag
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2,296 Posts
New Batteries

It has been 7years, so, in the interest of preventing unwanted battery issues, I splashed out on brand new ones today. Same as before as they have performed without any issues and has been recycled into the Ute and back-up generator.:smile
 

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