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U1000Ag
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Brake fluid sensor

I have been looking for years for one of these. Seems the older style is no longer available, but recently, I saw a NOS on Fleabay. Another item on my now short list ticked off:smile

MB part number A0004315533
 

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85' U1300L Holset Turbo VA A/C, 66' Propane 404.1 rock mog, 1975 416 Doka, G500, Volvo C303
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Finally got my Laycock overdrive professionally rebuilt by GV and installed it this evening. Now for some fresh tires and a few other things and I will finally put the OD on some longer trips to make sure it will continue to hold up.
 

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a couple round ones
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Went up the back 40 looking for a chunk of wood..
Ran across these monsters blocking the road.. Big green bastard, then a pretty ginormous excavator, Articulated dump truck, then the creek they were fixin, another excavator, another dumptruck...
Needless to say I did not get down that road..
G Vavra
 

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1976 406 w/ backhoe and dozer blade, a small collection of implements too
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Yikes! Our back property line is nearly 3/4 of a mile and we walk it nearly daily The other property lines are really hard to get to, so we only walk them once a week, or less.

Any invasions? I know that crossing property lines for tree felling in Maine is a really huge legal thing. One unapproved tree cutting alone is a huge legal issue.

Cool equipment photos though. I love that machinery. My 406 doing it's selective cutting is no match for that sort of power.
 

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1970 Unimog 406 was VF3 Snowcutter
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Time to do fuel filters, I suggest you change yours too.
First and second filter looked about the same but there was zero sediment in the second filter housing, just some black floaties, first filter and housing is pictured.

To put this in perspective, got the mog about 7 years ago (wow time flies) at 6k miles, changed fuel filters and cleaned sediment trap, fast forward to today at 9k miles and this is what I got. Give these trucks some loving. Starting to question fuel quality in Ventura county, my dodge 12v had some pretty bad sediment in the strainer too, but it has 260k and a questionable history, Last two pictures are the strainer screens/bowl on the dodge for reference.
 

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U-1300, 3 ea 406, 3 ea 404, Haflinger, 2 ea LMTV.
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Time to do fuel filters, I suggest you change yours too.
First and second filter looked about the same but there was zero sediment in the second filter housing, just some black floaties, first filter and housing is pictured.

To put this in perspective, got the mog about 7 years ago (wow time flies) at 6k miles, changed fuel filters and cleaned sediment trap, fast forward to today at 9k miles and this is what I got. Give these trucks some loving. Starting to question fuel quality in Ventura county, my dodge 12v had some pretty bad sediment in the strainer too, but it has 260k and a questionable history, Last two pictures are the strainer screens/bowl on the dodge for reference.
That black stuff is asphaltene. The newer ULSD is bad about it. My filters (U1300, O366A) were plugging every few hundred miles. A fuel system that recirculates and heats the Diesel in the tank compounds the issue.

Some good info here (I know nothing about that company) Asphaltenes and Fuel Filter Plugging

There are additives that help. No doubt the company in that URL has some. I use FleetGuard Fleet-Tech Asphaltene Conditioner. I also added a Racor pre-filter to replace the little in-line filter preceding the two main fuel filters (primary and secondary) on the engine. Having the huge filtering surface in the Racor really extends filter life.

Bob
 

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1970 Unimog 406 was VF3 Snowcutter
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Interesting, thanks for the link.
I am battling a fuel starvation issue with my Dodge 12v and asphaltene formation causing in-tank fuel prescreen fowling would explain the conditions that lead to lift pump pressure drooping and the truck running out of fuel while at sustained driving conditions and a low tank. Going to drop the tank shortly since I have checked/changed everything else in the fuel system. I'll post some pictures for everyone's viewing pleasure.

I find it interesting that the fuel systems between the two trucks are very similar even though they were built 20+ years apart.
 

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1970 Unimog 406 was VF3 Snowcutter
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I know it's not unimog but it's diesel, and they both have a similar style of injection pump.

1996 dodge cummins with a P7100 pump 230k miles.

In tank screen fouling for your viewing pleasure, at first I thought the large chunk was a leaf but it was between the upper pre-screen and the lower pre-screen, formation had the consistency of oily peanut brittle, and was completely blocking the lower pickup, hence my fuel starvation problems. The pickup was honestly a mess, return lines with holes worn in them, bent support brackets, seized sliders. Makes you appreciate the simplicity of the unimog pickup = a tube.
 

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U1000Ag
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Diff magnetic drain plugs

Splashed out on some new magnetic drain plugs for the diffs.
After much searching and talking to some oil experts, I also decided to replace the oils in my portals and axles with Castrol Long Drain.
I am now putting my axles on the backburner and will monitor at extended periods only. Done with worrying and messing about with them as life is too short :devil
 

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1988 U1300L RW1 Working gears Dual Tanks AC Rigged for Camping Plus: 91 F250 HD 4x4
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I like the sentiments, as regards do it and be done with it. Just place my faith in a different brand. My F250 and I have a 23 year, 250k mile relationship with Amsoil synthetics for everything, with absolutely no cause to re-think the choice. Anecdotal evidence supplied upon request. Maybe should be moved to one of the old lube threads?

Just did the RW1 engine, portals, and diffs with Amsoil. I used 75W-90 Severe Gear in the portals and diffs, it is the only thing Amsoil has that is close. Diffs were filthy (only have 26k km on the truck), rear had a small amount of what appeared to very very fine metal (magnetic and shiny) in the drained stuff. Got really bummed that I hadn't run a change of cheap crap through them for a few hundred miles, so as a pallative I dumped a quart of new std (cheap) gear lube in each, let them sit overnight, jack each end in succession and rolled wheels over by hand for a few minutes, then let drain out for another overnight. The newly drained quarts were loaded with black, and I let the drain pans sit overnight again. The black largely settled, no sign of metal on the magnetic drain plugs. Anyone have knowledge/ ideas as to what the black actually is? Wear material or carbonized lube? I have done two 100k mile gear lube changes on my Ford, amazing results. Despite that, I suspect that I will change out the (expensive) Amsoil within 5k miles, just for yuks and chuckles. I am reminded of the definition of sailboat racing: Standing under a cold shower, tearing up 100 dollar bills.

Oh, and the transmission won't get changed immediately, it was refilled with synthetic when the working gears were added in the Netherlands before shipping over.
 

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U1000Ag
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................. Maybe should be moved to one of the old lube threads?

...................................... Anyone have knowledge/ ideas as to what the black actually is? ..........................
Trev, feel free to move;

The black stuff is iron sulfide - normal.

"Sulfur is used in many EP oils and metal-working fluids as an EP additive. The basic way this works is for the sulfur to react at elevated temperatures, such as those experienced by meshing gears to form a sulfide layer. For example, for steel gears, an iron sulfide layer forms on the gear tooth surface. This ductile layer improves sliding contact, preventing scuffing or galling"
 

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1988 U1300L RW1 Working gears Dual Tanks AC Rigged for Camping Plus: 91 F250 HD 4x4
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The black stuff is iron sulfide - normal.

Thanks for the quick reply and comforting information. Good to think there is no huge impending catastrophe. I will update in 10 +/- years as to performance of Amsoil in Mog diffs(!).

My concerns arise from the 100k mile gear lube changes on my F250. The Amsoil synthetic comes out looking essentially the way it went in.
 

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85' U1300L Holset Turbo VA A/C, 66' Propane 404.1 rock mog, 1975 416 Doka, G500, Volvo C303
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Started prep for paint. Stage 1, repair the only rust on the cab. Damn windshield rust is a pain!! Luckily there was only 1 pinhole that can be welded easily.
 

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1986 U1300L Expedition Camper
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Started prep for paint. Stage 1, repair the only rust on the cab. Damn windshield rust is a pain!! Luckily there was only 1 pinhole that can be welded easily.
Will you plan to make a thread about the cab restoration efforts? If so I will be watching closely as both the cab, doors, and fenders on our truck need some attention and hope to get taken care of sooner rather than later.
 
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