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Discussion Starter #62
7-29-19 update

Took the CLK to a local alignment shop, who promptly fucked it up and said the car could not be aligned. Drove the car home and had a new 'clunk' in the front end.

Got under the car Sunday and measured everything. Right/left and fore/aft measurements were all within 4MM. Aligned the car via the string method and it's driving fine. Obviously not as good as a COMPETENT tech can do on an alignment rack, but she'll do for now.

Off to the shop today to fix the SRS module error and the seat adjustment problem.

I'm using an app called Notion to track work. I'm meh about it. Think I still like Trello better.
Will be about 95% done this week. Here's a list of the work done so far:

[Middle idler wheel and tensioner]

[Right Front Wheel Well]

[Front Suspension bushings]

[Brakes]

[Right Front Foglamp]

[Left Front Foglamp]

[Front Sway Bar Links]

[Secure longitudinal cover]

[Replace Fan Belt Idler Pulley]

[WIndshield wipers inop]

[Taillight Bulbs]

[Install transmission splash guard]

[Ambient Temp Sensor]

[Spark Plug Install]

[Front exterior lights ]

[Check Windshield washer motor]

[Install Left Undertray]

[New Wheel + Tire Install]

[Engine Start]

[Center Dashboard Reassemble]

[Windows + Sunroof check function]
 

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I am so tired of shops not being able to handle simple work on a MBZ car! I've had several shops tell me all sorts of lies abut MBZ alignments. And alignment is an alignment - you just measure it and adjust. The only caveat on the W209 and many other models is that only toe can be adjusted using traditional methods (i.e. adjusting the tie rod ends). Caster cannot be adjusted at all, and camber requires special bolts. I will mention that if camber is off, you are better to replace the control arms than use the camber bolts. There are several reasons for that, the first being that with a straight frame and axle carrier, new control arms should be in perfect camber, but as they wear, it can get off. Also, the camber bolts are not an analog adjustment; they only a single, specific plus or minus, which may not be enough (or too much).
 

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Discussion Starter #64
I am so tired of shops not being able to handle simple work on a MBZ car! I've had several shops tell me all sorts of lies abut MBZ alignments. And alignment is an alignment - you just measure it and adjust. The only caveat on the W209 and many other models is that only toe can be adjusted using traditional methods (i.e. adjusting the tie rod ends). Caster cannot be adjusted at all, and camber requires special bolts. I will mention that if camber is off, you are better to replace the control arms than use the camber bolts. There are several reasons for that, the first being that with a straight frame and axle carrier, new control arms should be in perfect camber, but as they wear, it can get off. Also, the camber bolts are not an analog adjustment; they only a single, specific plus or minus, which may not be enough (or too much).
Wow, good to know! I have another alignment shop which is recommended by my garage. All I did hit was the toe to get it off the trailer, so I'm not expecting any wild issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Just a bit frustrated

My #1 MBZ shop told me to get the CLK in on Monday. I stopped by Tuesday PM and they had not yet touched it. They had a GL that had been giving them problems and as they made a commitment to get it out, my car was pushed back.

Hopefully they get to it today. I really don't need the car until Friday, I go to get it smogged Saturday.

And when they fixed the EIS problem, they really cut me a deal and did a few little additional things for free, so I want to keep the relationship positive. They really are only 5 guys, so it's a small shop, but they are very good.

(sigh)
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Update 8-6-19

SRS module VIN mismatch resolved. No error codes or warning lights in dashboard.

Tilt/telescope steering wheel issue diagnosed as switch - new part on order

Seat issue diagnosed as seat module - used modules ordered from eBay.

Black right hand dash installed - glove box damper needs replaced.

A-pillars recovered in black suede. Will be installed as one of the last things installed.

Coming up: Dash Cam Install. Final checks for Cali. registration (there is a story there)

Next week should be off to waste a day @ the DMV to get licensed.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Black is beautiful

Dash updated to black on both driver + passenger sides.

Black suede a-pillars installed

new tilt/telescope switch installed (did not fix problem ...)

Car smogged

Cal state required brake + lamp check done (total rip off, more later)

Next: Dash cam install, seat module replace.

Album:https://photos.app.goo.gl/av3kqnJuGCqQvnnn6
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Dash cam installed

Replaced passenger seat module w/ebay replacement. actually made the problem worse by disabling headrest up/down on seat fold forward.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Retitled car in my daughter's name today - now legal to drive!

Replacement passenger side module on the way, that'll be tried this weekend.
 

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Retitled car in my daughter's name today - now legal to drive!

Replacement passenger side module on the way, that'll be tried this weekend.
Congrats ,,,well done .

I hope your daughter fully appreciates your tenacity.

ps , what did you use to secure the suede ?
 

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Just caught up on this thread, great work chewtoy! Thanks for the pics, the car looks great!

And I can certainly relate to the trials and tribulations with alignment, don't get me started 🙄
 

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Tilt/telescope steering wheel issue diagnosed as switch - new part on order
Does it do neither?

On mine only one function works, the other broke. It's a plastic coupler called the "dog bone" that gets brittle and breaks. I can hear the motor running if I move the switch.

I bought a bag of 3 of them to replace it but haven't bothered to do the job. Laying on my back under steering wheel is SO MUCH more uncomfortable than when I was 18.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Does it do neither?

On mine only one function works, the other broke. It's a plastic coupler called the "dog bone" that gets brittle and breaks. I can hear the motor running if I move the switch.

I bought a bag of 3 of them to replace it but haven't bothered to do the job. Laying on my back under steering wheel is SO MUCH more uncomfortable than when I was 18.
Does neither.

I'm thinking it may possibly be related to the bad seat module.
 

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Discussion Starter #75
Final visit to shop before turning the car over to my daughter. On deck for repair:

Drivers Airbag final circuit repair
Seat adjustment - had tried 3 used seat modules from eBay without luck.
Tilt/telescope steering column repair - Works through SDS, operators switch replaced, possible canbus or seat module/memory issue.
Air conditioning - Had hoped it would be a recharge, looks like it's the compressor

Never saw a car so neglected.
 

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Discussion Starter #76
OK! Seats and steering column are working! Had some wires pull out of a connector on the steering wheel, which killed the function for everything. A/C had a broken wire as well which caused the compressor to not run - fixed and blowing cold air now.

The kid gets the car this week.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
And, found out the car has the tumbler flaps issue. No CEL, so I'm going to let the kid drive the car for a couple of months and see how it goes. If it behaves, I'll spring for the whole intake. If not, will just replace the broken plastic crank. I think the concern with broken flaps after the crank is replaced reflects the poor quality plastic used by MBZ back then, and the plastic has since been improved a bit. The car runs pretty nice now, so fixing the flaps should make it even better.
 

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It's not the plastic - it's oil buildup on the tumble flaps and intake that makes them harder to articulate.
 
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