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1988 560SL
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Ok -- my 88 560sl has all original paint -- except -- the right rear fender must have had some body work done by a previous owner -- as a result, he must have sanded down that one area and re-painted. If you look very closely, you would be able to see the difference between the original paint and what was repaired (not a bad job...but an eagle eye looking for defects will find it if the light hits the panel in a certain way). I love the color (smoked silver). My questions are: when I am going to was and polish the car -- is there a way to better blend these areas? Will a really good was/polish create more of a problem in that you will be able to see the difference even more? What is a good quality wax/polish -- was thinking of asking a pro to come over and do it once so I can watch? And -- in the future, is it best to just repaint the entire car or is it ever possible to get a good body/paint shop to blend it to perfection. thx!
 

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1986 560SL with M120 V12 Engine, 1988 560SL Stock
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10,238 Posts
Ok -- my 88 560sl has all original paint -- except -- the right rear fender must have had some body work done by a previous owner -- as a result, he must have sanded down that one area and re-painted. If you look very closely, you would be able to see the difference between the original paint and what was repaired (not a bad job...but an eagle eye looking for defects will find it if the light hits the panel in a certain way). I love the color (smoked silver). My questions are: when I am going to was and polish the car -- is there a way to better blend these areas? Will a really good was/polish create more of a problem in that you will be able to see the difference even more? What is a good quality wax/polish -- was thinking of asking a pro to come over and do it once so I can watch? And -- in the future, is it best to just repaint the entire car or is it ever possible to get a good body/paint shop to blend it to perfection. thx!
My red car has three different shades of red. The right front fender seems to oxides much quicker than the rest of the car. I believe that is due to poor quality paint. But once clayed polished and waxed it blends in and looks pretty good. I like Groits polish because they have a three step machine polish which is not as confusing to know where you are as compared to Mguires, seems like 50 levels of polish at both consumer and professional levels. But I do prefer Mguires NXT wax.
 

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1979 450 SL
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120 Posts
My red car has three different shades of red. The right front fender seems to oxides much quicker than the rest of the car. I believe that is due to poor quality paint. But once clayed polished and waxed it blends in and looks pretty good. I like Groits polish because they have a three step machine polish which is not as confusing to know where you are as compared to Mguires, seems like 50 levels of polish at both consumer and professional levels. But I do prefer Mguires NXT wax.
It's interesting that you mention the oxidation of red paint on your car. I remember someone telling me that red paint oxides more than any other color. I am thinking of buying a new C-300, red in color. Has anyone else heard of this problem with red paint?
 

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1986 560SL with M120 V12 Engine, 1988 560SL Stock
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10,238 Posts
It's interesting that you mention the oxidation of red paint on your car. I remember someone telling me that red paint oxides more than any other color. I am thinking of buying a new C-300, red in color. Has anyone else heard of this problem with red paint?
I don't think its a problem with Glasurit paint.
 

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2010 Mercury Milan Hybrid, 1993 BMW 325i convertible
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I always figured I was (at best) fourth rate with the waxing thing. It never turned out looking like I expected it to. Then I bought a Porter Cable 7424 random orbital buffer. Amazing tool. I can tell by the way it feels whether I need to load more wax on or can keep going. I use about 1/4 the wax I used to use when I applied it by hand, and taking the wax off is a breeze. I can usually get through the whole car with just two small microfiber towels. When I've got the wax off, the car gleams, and it looks great with every paste wax I've tried. I do tend to stick with Meguiars wax, though. I also use the Meguiars detail spray to keep it clean between washes.
 

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1973 450SL
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651 Posts
You can't 'blend' a finished paint job. You can get everything to an even polish, but since your car is silver, you say, I assume it's a metallic. Likely the metallic isn't laying down in the same orientation on the repair as it is on the original parts of the car. There's nothing that can change that except painting everything at once. If you have single stage paint, abrading the surface will cause metallics to be on the surface and it will REALLY look different. If you have clear coat, sanding/buffing will just make the clear thinner. You never want to break through the clear and expose the base.
 

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1973 450 SLC
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124 Posts
paint correction

Ok -- my 88 560sl has all original paint -- except -- the right rear fender must have had some body work done by a previous owner -- as a result, he must have sanded down that one area and re-painted. If you look very closely, you would be able to see the difference between the original paint and what was repaired (not a bad job...but an eagle eye looking for defects will find it if the light hits the panel in a certain way). I love the color (smoked silver). My questions are: when I am going to was and polish the car -- is there a way to better blend these areas? Will a really good was/polish create more of a problem in that you will be able to see the difference even more? What is a good quality wax/polish -- was thinking of asking a pro to come over and do it once so I can watch? And -- in the future, is it best to just repaint the entire car or is it ever possible to get a good body/paint shop to blend it to perfection. thx!

Meguiar's has many training videos on youtube... look up paint correction video that maybe helpful.

This maybe available in your area Paint Correction services. The work that I personally observed was incredible. This operator does this part time it took 3 or 4 evenings to get the job done.
Using 4 large light fixtures the operator noted orange peel, acid rain stains, the red paint looked orangy on some panels and other paint issues. Then sampled the car panels with a paint analyzer...similar to a body shop uses to match the paint. This unit may be like every other unit but he was using it to detect paint thickness and the gloss level of the individual panels.

The operator used only clay bar, polishes, cleaners, etc applied by hand or buffer. All these noted issues were fixed and the final product was to bring all the panels into the same gloss range. After the work was completed the car looked brillant. The owner said it cost $500 but I think it was more.

Maybe the Meguiar's vids and products can help you correct the issues with your car???
 

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I am thinking of buying a new C-300, red in color. Has anyone else heard of this problem with red paint?
heard it, wash it at least once a week and keep wax on it and you will be fine.

You can't 'blend' a finished paint job. You can get everything to an even polish, but since your car is silver, you say, I assume it's a metallic. Likely the metallic isn't laying down in the same orientation on the repair as it is on the original parts of the car. There's nothing that can change that except painting everything at once. If you have single stage paint, abrading the surface will cause metallics to be on the surface and it will REALLY look different. If you have clear coat, sanding/buffing will just make the clear thinner. You never want to break through the clear and expose the base.
+1, whenever repainting a part of a car you have to blend a much larger surrounded area to make it match, and being able to do that takes a really skilled painter.


Ok -- my 88 560sl has all original paint -- except -- the right rear fender must have had some body work done by a previous owner -- as a result, he must have sanded down that one area and re-painted. If you look very closely, you would be able to see the difference between the original paint and what was repaired (not a bad job...but an eagle eye looking for defects will find it if the light hits the panel in a certain way). I love the color (smoked silver). My questions are: when I am going to was and polish the car -- is there a way to better blend these areas? Will a really good was/polish create more of a problem in that you will be able to see the difference even more? What is a good quality wax/polish -- was thinking of asking a pro to come over and do it once so I can watch? And -- in the future, is it best to just repaint the entire car or is it ever possible to get a good body/paint shop to blend it to perfection. thx!
No blending possible on your end. a body shop can probably fix it for around $200-300.

As for good wax/polish/etc use Mcguirers. their products are AMAZING.. turtle wax is good too.
 
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