[daryn]

I have been busy jack hammering in the basement to put my big old compressor out of the way so I have more room. I am going to run an air manifold in the garage for my pnuematic tools. Well with all the work going on I had to leave my car out during a rain storm. I went to go take a nice ride today and my car was running like a pig. It had a miss and all. Well I made it about 1 mile down the hill and the damned thing stalled out. It didn't want to run. I had to baby it back home. When I got it back it seemed to run better. I think some moisture might have gotten into either the intake or electrical system. What a pain.

Tomorrow I'm going to put either some methanol or fuel system cleaner into the tank tomorrow and try to get everything dried out. I guess I need to get the hood seal.

Anyone have any idea of why the moisture would turn my car into a pig?

Thanks folks!

 

[abiby]

My best guess would be moisture under the distributor cap.

As for running the air lines from the basement, don't use PVC or PE pipe...
Either use iron pipe, copper tubing, or something like this:

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

 

[daryn]

I already have the type L copper line to do in in addition to tons of regulators and stuff that my old man got from his work. Actually 1/2in copper type l was only like 12$ per 10ft at home depot. They also have 3/4in for like 20$ per 10ft. I guess iron and pvc isn't worth using as far as maintainence goes. I still need to learn how to solder up the copper lines.

I thought about moisture in the distributor cap but it looked dry. Maybe condensation got in there, I don't know.

 

[Weather Man]

Let it idle if it will, for a good long while to heat up the engine compartment and evaporate the water. What happened to me once in a previous car was that I had bad plug wires and when I drove in falling snow they went kaput, had to pull over and let it sit for 20 minutes.

 

[RadioTek]

Let it idle if it will, for a good long while to heat up the engine compartment and evaporate the water. What happened to me once in a previous car was that I had bad plug wires and when I drove in falling snow they went kaput, had to pull over and let it sit for 20 minutes.

I had something like that happen to me in a Company van back in the early '80's. The intake for the air cleaner was about 14 inches wide, but only about 1 inch high. Driving into a heavy, wet snow, it plugged up and killed the engine. I had to hitchhike to a truck stop and wait 4 hours for someone to show up. Back at the truck when I tried to start it, it fired right off. My boss knew that I wasn't trying to pull anything off right then. He said the expression on my face was the weirdest one he'd seen.

Needless to say, that intake got "modified" shortly thereafter.

 

[rowdie]

If there was a big temperature swing during the time I would guess condensation in the cap also. Especially since it happened right off.
This is what Water Displacement formula 40 was invented for.

 

[nobby]

This is what Water Displacement formula 40 was invented for.

I wonder why the other 39 formulas failed.

 

[daryn]

Thanks for the help folks. Been too busy to dick around with it but will tell y'all how it goes!

 

[daryn]

Well I don't know if I fixed it but I cleaned up the cold start injector connector and the other connector on the intake with brake cleaner. I also found a vacuum fitting on the fuel dist./sensor plate that didn't look very good and was pretty hard and cracked. Went to mercedes and got a new U vacuum fitting and the car seems to be running better without the miss. I took it on the freeway to burn out the cobb webs and it seems to run like only an m110 r107 can, great. The idle is a little low but the miss seems to be gone. I'll tell you folks if this fixes it, in the mean time I'll be parking in the garage. Thanks again folks!

 

[daryn]

Well it still seems to have issues, I think it might be the warm up regulator but hell if I know. It wants to run but feels like it has a fueling miss when cold. I was thinking about running some fuel cleaner through the system but I don't think it will help. The car seems to run like a real pig when cold, it runs better when warm but the revs aren't coming up.

Can someone tell me when you start the car cold there is something that makes the idle go up to around 1200-1500rpm, what is it? When the car warms up the revs drop to around 700-900rpm. I think it is the warm up regulator which is in front/below of the fuel distributor but I don't know for sure.

Thanks for any help folks, y'all know I need it and happy new year!

 

[RadioTek]

How long since it's been in for a tune up by someone with all the requisite meters and guages? It sort of sounds like it may be running rich, but I'm not familiar with the K-Jet system. I think a gas analyzer is needed to get the fuel mixture right, but I could be mixing up the procedures for D-Jet and K-Jet.

Scott

 

[daryn]

Had it smogged in december so that didn't help it run any better. Actually I had a vacuum tube come off the transmission modulator and tuned/retuned and it has been running a little rough since then. The transmission runs better but when cold the car seemed to have a slight fueling miss, but would level out when the WUR or whatever kicked in. I'm no expert in tuning so I'm not sure what happened.

This car is a k-jet. I need to just sit down and read the bosch manual for the CIS system.

 

[nobby]

This car is a k-jet. I need to just sit down and read the bosch manual for the CIS system.

That would be a good start.

The WUR is bolted to the block just ahead of the oil filter.
A couple of fuel lines, electrical plug and a couple of vacuum lines.

Cold start valve gets it going and the WUR keeps it going. When cold, mine will typically idle at 1400 RPMs. It gradually bleeds down, as it warms up, to about 800 RPMs. The WUR handles that job.

 

[roncallo]

WUR is checked with a CIS pressure gauge. Your ignition system is checked with an antique scope. My 3000 mile guess its that this is ignition related and caused by cheep aftermarket wires cap and rotor or people poking holes in the ignition wire insulation with a test light to ground out a cylinder.