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1922 Ford T no OBD, no ECU, no SCN
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is on my just purchased 2004 wagon. Pick it up 3000 miles from home and drove 1500 miles just fine. Yesterday I got "Visit workshop" message pointing to suspension, but no code and it reset after restart.
This morning I started and drove, when 10 miles later got red "Stop the car too low" message and the rear is really low.
I am in the center of Nebraska now and I know this is one of the last places to look for qualified MB shop.
Hoping it will fix itself at one point, what are my risk driving like that 1400 miles home?
I read that even I don't have airmatic, I still have air suspension on the rear.
 

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02 ML500, 00 ML320, 05 E500 4M Wagon, 99 ML430
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Ouch, sorry you are stuck out there in this weather. Where in Nebraska are you?

It sounds like the air springs or the line that feeds them has a leak. The compressor may not be able to keep up or is also dying because it is always running.

First check the compressor and that it is still alive. It is behind the left front fender liner.
Then if it can pump up the rear air springs using the old soapy water test check the rear air springs for a leak.

Arnott can overnight all needed parts. Advance or Autozone can also get the air springs from Arnott.
 

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1922 Ford T no OBD, no ECU, no SCN
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
it fixed itself

I spend about 20 minutes surfing this forum for answers and went back to the car.
Restarting engine - my OBD ScanGauge come back to life.
The red warning was still on, but after a minute the rear lifted up, the warning cleared and I am in Nevada already.
Observations so far
-the bags hold air over 20F night just fine
-upon start during next several minutes the air leaked out and the warning come on
-ignition resetting did not change anything at the time
-the computer killed whole circuit at the time, as the OBD plug quit working
-after some driving when everything warmed up and car, power the power come back and suspension lifted working for the rest of the day with no glitch.
Thanks Noodles for heads up. Looks like something I will have to study very fast. Hopefully not tomorrow morning as fixing Mercedes in center of Nevada is not any better than doing it in center of Nebraska.
 

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1922 Ford T no OBD, no ECU, no SCN
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I am back home with no future incidents (beside false bulb messages).
I search the forum and seem you Noodles are the only one that knows something about the system and post here, so I would appreciate any available info.
Fact that stupid air suspension can keep me stranded for long time is not making me happy at all, so I am thinking about putting a tee with pressure gauge and tire inflator valve somewhere.
What I still don't know what controls the system?
I can't hear the pump, but on cold morning drive about every minute my voltage dropped from 14.1 to 13.9V for about 2 seconds. I can think about only compressor doing that.
Is there any norm for compressor cycling?
Why the system seems temperature depend?
 

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1922 Ford T no OBD, no ECU, no SCN
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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Thanks Sailor, but this is one of tens of topics I found about the issues and none of them ended with a conclusion.
4 forums on 2 continents and nobody come with pictorial or at least verbal way to troubleshoot the system.
I am not new to pneumatic suspensions, as have been using them for decades on motorhomes and even my pickups have air helper bags, but this system is not making me feel good at all.
When $100 air bag can hold 80,000lb semitruck for about 20 years and million of miles, the $500 Mercedes bags are reported to blow sitting in the garage and some owners report replacing them several times during the ownership. The freezing issues, what I think happen to me seem to be pretty common.
The only posted way to repair is sink big cash into new components. The airbags on wagon per EPC are the same what are used on airmatics. Only shock absorbers on airmatic have attachment what likely is adjusting mechanism
I will keep this topic open as a blog. With some time to spare I will inspect my system and try to figure out at least monitoring system, that will give me a backup.
Hope I will not have a problem with it in warm California, but my first conclusion is that the compressor could use a dryer.
 

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1922 Ford T no OBD, no ECU, no SCN
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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Did have some time today to inspect the car and here what I could find on EPC and on the car. Don't know how to copy Java pictures, so took picture of the screen - sorry for lower quality.
Not having WIS, I am doing reverse engineering so allow me for making errors.
The system has a compressor with electrovalve build in in front of driver side wheels well. Took taking the wheel off and inner liner hold by 5 plastic nuts (4 on the picture), 2 screws and 2 pegs. From the observation the compressor assembly has only single 4mm tubing going to the rear, where the tee (400) splits the air on 2 air bags. That means both bags have equal pressure coming to them and side to side leveling is done by solenoids on the top of them. The air is suck by small pipe with inlet behind fog light.
That's for pneumatic part.
The level control is done by electrical sensors and even I found them on EPC, I could not locate them on the car yet. The sender unit 30 and distributor 600 are responsible for operating the compressor and keeping the rear level, but have not found the program how they do it. (yet).
The compressor is having air filter, what looks dirty on my car and this is the part I am ordering for next service., Part 220 320 00 63
 

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02 ML500, 00 ML320, 05 E500 4M Wagon, 99 ML430
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If it is an intermittent problem then nailing down the cause my be tough.

The filter change is a good idea.

The leak that happened in the cold my just be a weak connection in the tubing that contracts enough in the cold to cause problems.

I will have my service DVD back next Tues night and look up the level sensors on the air spring models. I have full airmatic and I honestly do not know if they are different.
 

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1922 Ford T no OBD, no ECU, no SCN
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I like when the things start moving forward. Thank you guys.
First correction I will edit above - seems the bags have independent valves.
Arnott left question in their own forum unanswered for several months and are out of stock for the air springs, so I am not holding my breath for their help, but nice to know the choices, although they sell bags with no solenoids, while statistically solenoids are first to go.
I copy EPC for both system Noodles.
On the left you have airmatic suspension, on the right non-airmatic for wagon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I order new compressor filter from autohousaz.com and it is already on its way.
MB makes repair kit for air line with
pressure line 220 327 10 45
connector 000 327 01 69
Bad news autohous do not carry them. Parts.com do carry them, but the connector is having outrageous price, so I will look for 4MM coupler locally. Anybody knows good supplier for generic air lines?
My idea is to put a Tee on the line and have pressure gauge maybe in the cabin, or at least under the hood for monitoring. That could also serve as emergency inflator with add on tire-style valve. I do have the components from my Firestone air helper bags, but unfortunately they are in 1/4" size
I could use as a Tee the distributor used on rear axle, but those things retails close to $50 even I can buy them at discount. Darn expensive Tee fitting.
 

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2004 E500 4matic
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Kajtek1,

I have been experiencing a similar issue on my, 2004 E500 w/ Airmatic, the left rear appears to drop significantly when parked for several hours, but only when the temp is in the lower 20's F. I noticed it after work when it sat for most of the day and even in my garage at night when the temp in the garage falls in the lower 20's like it was here recently.

My thoughts were the rubber seals, like on a shock absorber shaft may contract enough to leak slowly at low temperatures. I'm not sure if the absorber or the air bag holds the pressure when sitting. If I recall the solenoid locks the pressure when the car is shut off. So maybe the solenoid could be sticky in cold weather? Either way its probably a sign of wear telling me it should be replaced soon.

I have 113K on the od. and only get the white "visit workshop" message occasionally, haven't seen the red car too low yet.

Good Luck, I' be following your posts.
 

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2004 E270 CDI STW
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33 Posts
Hello from Finland. :)

I've been a Mercedes owner for only a year now but some common air suspension issues have been very familiar to me, as my car is -04 E270 CDI Stw with rear air springs.

First of all, ten years seem to be quite normal life span for rubber air bladders so it was no wonder the left one already leaked some when I purchased the car. New Arnott springs cost around $600 for pair and were pretty easy to install. As far as I know, they are also designed better than original Bilstein springs, which have some certain flaws.

Anyway, after replacing springs there were still occasional problems with suspension; screaming red "car too low" errors, not so dramatical "visit workshop" errors and visually imprecise height adjust. So I took some time and studied the function of the compressor unit...

In my opinion the most common problem, especially in freezing conditions, is moisture. The non-Airmatic system itself is pretty simple and straightforward, containing only couple of solenoid valves, but only a tiny drop of water in wrong place may freeze and stuck one of these valves.

Mercedes uses the very same Wabco compressor unit as Audi, BMW, Jaguar, Range/Land Rover, VW and Porsche in their air suspension system, only some wirings and housing differs. This unit has built-in air dryer, which is defined as "maintenance free". In fact, it is very serviceable and also will need regular service to function correctly.

As everyone who owns any kind of air compressor knows, more or less moisture will be condensed in the bottom of the pressure container. Of course this depends on climate, but if you live in place where sometimes rains water and/or snow, your compressor surely will take moist air into it. If there are freezing days too, you definitely will have problems sooner of later without working air dryer.

This far I have seen only Audi's and MB's service manuals, and both says the dryer does NOT need service as the system purges dried air back from springs through the dryer and that way takes the moisture from it. The only drawback is, that dryer never works at 100% efficiency (takes same amount of moisture that it gives back). Furthermore, if there is any leak in the system, the amount of dried air is more than the purged air which should regenerate dryer.

The good news is that dryer unit has removable cartridge which contains approximately 100 grams of silicagel granules. They can be replaced or regenerated (2 hours in 120C/250F owen will work) and after that your dryer will work as new.

When I opened my -04 compressor unit, the dryer cartridge was soaking wet and there were water drops also in dryer chamber and solenoid (purge) valve. That explained too why I heard tiny sound of splashing water when I shook old removed air springs...

As said, compressor unit is pretty simple piece of device and it's also simple to maintain. Another things to check out regularly are the external intake filter and the hose between filter and compressor. For some reason that hose tends to break down and after that intake air with dust and extra moisture will definitely kill your compressor if not fixed as soon as possible.

Extended life to compressor can also be given by replacing a new piston ring. Manufacturers doesn't have piston ring as spare part, they just want to sell $400 compressor, but there's a guy (Bagpipingandy) who makes them.


After detaching compressor head unit from motor unit, the dryer cartridge can be removed by loosing two bolts. A good video how to dismantle compressor, that's the same guy who makes the spare piston rings too:





Pull off plastic washer from the center tube then lift away metal plate and felt. There is a full cup of silicagel dryer granules.


Internal parts of the solenoid purge valve were wet too. If this valve doesn't work correctly, your air suspension will certainly have problems.


Dryer granules were really soaking wet, the unit was working more like an air humidifier...
 

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2004 E270 CDI STW
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First correction I will edit above - seems the bags have independent valves.
Arnott left question in their own forum unanswered for several months and are out of stock for the air springs, so I am not holding my breath for their help, but nice to know the choices, although they sell bags with no solenoids, while statistically solenoids are first to go.
I copy EPC for both system Noodles.
On the left you have airmatic suspension, on the right non-airmatic for wagon.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like Arnott has new rear air spring for non-airmatic wagons which does include solenoid valves. The new product number is A-2726 which replaces old A-2576.

I have those older ones which looks very same springs but they were delivered without valves. In my opinion they have better and stronger desing than original Bilsteins anyway.


Original Bilstein and it's replacement from Arnott. Outer bellows seems to have flexible part on the other end than Bilstein, so I guess the inner air spring bladder is designed to be positioned opposite way too. That means it doesn't have dirt collecting "cup" facing upwards. But that's only my humble guess, as I didn't want to tear down my new spring...



Arnott has machined most of parts from solid aluminium, while Bilstein has used plastic and pressed sheet steel...


...and it also has nicely designed lower mounting, which automatically aligns itself to correct angle.


Original solenoid valve made by German company Rapa (Rausch & Pausch) but as far as I know, these are not available as spare parts. However, I haven't asked from Arnott, do they use some other brand and would it be for sale separately.
 

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2004 E270 CDI STW
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4 forums on 2 continents and nobody come with pictorial or at least verbal way to troubleshoot the system.
Here's some pictorial help... I have also spent several hours for searching information about the system, but most I have found is just guessing or even complete misinformation. At last I found a basic schematics of the compressor unit, it's from Audi but they use same Wabco compressor:


Only main difference I can see is the cylinder head temp sensor, which my E270 doesn't have. Electrically it's very simple, just two pairs of wires; one for powering compressor motor, another for activating solenoid purge valve.


Non-Airmatic wagon doesn't have that valve block on the right, only T junction to rear air spring solenoid valves. I don't have Airmatic either, but I think valve block and air reservoir (accumulator) design is basicly same that MB uses. I also wondered the "additional silencer (7)" Audi does have, as intake air is sucked through filter(8) and pretty long hose anyway.


And that's the way it works. That also explains how purged air is conducted through the dryer. BUT, in my opinion which is based on my own compressor, I strongly suggest to check out and service the dryer as I wrote in earlier message. Especially when there are any signs of malfunctions which are caused by freezing.
 

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1922 Ford T no OBD, no ECU, no SCN
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks a lot valotus
Hopefully we can get enough information to make those systems working without spending 4 digits at dealers.
I have parts for service I mentioned above, but so far in warmer California the wagon performs flawless and I am occupy with other projects. .
You note about dryer service is priceless.
 

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2004 Mercedes-Benz E500 4Matic Sedan
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Thanks for the valuable information valotus.

I was going to get a brand new compressor in few months.

With your information and other research I did, I will try to repair my own compressor with a new piston ring and baking those silicagel granules. Since I installed rear arnott springs myself, I should be able to do this one as well.

Wonderful information. Always nice to save money.

Thank you.
 
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