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W221 S600 ABC level calibration procedure - ABC error 520A Signal Implausible - chasing a mouse with a hammer sound

8K views 15 replies 4 participants last post by  Chili58  
#1 ·
Hi all, I am about to replace the two rear level sensors on my 2006 W221 S600 as part of chasing an ABC error and any additional info would be helpful.

The reason is I have been having some odd ABC behaviour and a random ABC error - yellow. It clears on a car restart but logs a pressure error on the rear left when the Star is checked. Now this is where things get peculiar. I can hear a noise that sounds like its coming from the rear left but hard to tell. Its a very faint knocking type noise and can be heard at 5mph on perfectly flat surface and also when the car is stopped but running. I have it recorded so will try and share some links if I can.

ABC History in my ownership:
All seemed to be working OK but blew the high pressure hose from the pump after Christmas.
Replaced with an OEM used one.
System flushed, new filter installed and new fluid.
Rodeo and tested - pressures all good.
Car running and driving fine - no problems aside from a not about teh level sensors being a bit of a DIY job.
Car went for NCT test and visual fail for broken spring and rear left strut. It actually passed all teh vibration and balance tests but they say a bulge in teh gaitor and went poking and managed to get the break to come through.
Two rear rebuilt struts ordered, decided to replace both rears at teh same time. Qiality looked excellent and in as new condition.
Struts fitted by a garage that specialise in merc.
More fluid, rodeo and testing.
Car seemed fine.
Week or so later the faint knocking and an ABC error.
Error cleared - error returned.
Back to garage - only thing they seen similar once was an air lock.
More rodeo and bleeding.
Noise stopped
Returned a few days later and ABC error.
Error cleared - car back in for its national car test and passed with flymg colours.
ABC error and knocking still persist.
Now have parts to start isolating and try and get to the bottom of it,

On one recent fault code after I took a 90 degree left into the estate where I work at around 15mph I decided to not turn the car off but investigate. I reveresed the car in the warehouse and the left rear strut was fully extended. It was much higher than the "raise height" position. Raising or lowering the car did alter the level of the other three struts but not the RL. I hooked up the star and pressure error was present "Signal Implausible" Code 520A. Rear left showed 2.33V so within spec.

I did not clear any errors but put car in rodeo mode for a few seconds. All other struts did their thing but rear left did not move so I stopped it. All this time the rear left is still fully extended. I now belive this may be a fail safe setting wwhere the ABC fully extends to protect itself but have nothing to support that only some random internet reading. At this point I decided to clear the codes with the Star. As soon as I did that the strut sat back down as normal. I did not cycle the car ignition at that point so the car had been running continuously. After the strut reset I did clear the error. So basically - the car has been parked since waiting for the parts.

I drove it the last two days to verify the issue is still there and it is. I still have a mouse gently tapping with a hammer and did get an ABC fault. I have't pulled the code yet but suspect it will be what I expect

The current level sensors have been tweaked / modded lets say with one home made and one welded by the previous owener/s. They seem to work OK but the linkages etc could be binding or sticking. There are two on the rear of the W221 and relatively easy to swap so they will be replaced along with brackets for new Merecedes OEM. For this reason I am looking for the specific shop procedures on a W221 ABC level calibration so that I can be 100% sure that the levelomg sensor system is correct.

Once replaced I will calibrate and see can I recreate the fault.

The next step would be to replace the pressure sensor on the valve block that feeds the left rear strut in case that has a fault and retest. After that then I fear it may be replace the new strut or look at the valve block itself.

I have serached the WIS on my Star but not been able to find teh procedure. I have searched teh forum but not had any luck finding a specific W221 procudure. I did locate AR40.20-P_0301l which details the procedure for the W220 and C215 models so can use that as a reference.

For others that may be doing similar the relevent threads with decent info on teh forim I have found so far are linked below:

2001 CL55
Stock 2001 CL55 ABC level calibration values

2006 W220 S65 - slight differences between Airmatic and ABC discussion
S65: ABC leveling.

Thread on calibrating and storing but not W221 specific.

Link to post with teh W220 / C215 pdf procedure
www.benzworld.org/forums/attachments/w220-s-class/2082873d1486433097-ride-height-specs-check-vehicle-level-front-rear-axle

That;s pretty much all off teh top of my head but any questions , ideas, comments, procedures, divine inspiration, seance etc all welcome. Hopefully I can get to the bottom of it as its really annoying me. I will try and pull together some souind clips and video to share.
 
#2 ·
Managed to upload some stuff. hopefully the links will work and mayeb someone has some ideas.

Rodeo vid where Left Rear strut is extended and pretty much locked out. the movement you see is due to teh other stuts and not the LR


Here are three audio files. They are all from the same morning. You will need to listen closely and you will hear a solid kind of faint "thunk /tapping, popping - mouse with a rubber mallet??". There is a high speed sort of ticking but i think thats one of the HVAC flaps. You will recogognise the odd noise when you hear it.
These are just recorded from my phone so mic quality isn't going to be the best. Sorry about my poor voiceovers.

Sound clip one - after filling up. Phone on back seat.
Turn right from the pump, right to get to teh station exit, right onto the road and then very soon right onto a roundabout (We drive onkleft side of road in Ireland)
30 Mar, 07.49 Applegreen after a fill.mp3

Sound clip two - put phone in the trunk after reaching my industrial estate. Straight, right straight, left and reverse into parking space. All low speed - 15mph?? Sorry about the chat at the end with my neighbour.
30 Mar, 07.54.mp3

An hour later - Phone on back seat again.
Move the car and reverse into the warehouse. I stop on the very gentle slope up as I reverse in and you can hear it. After parking and getting out and bouncing the car there is no noise.
30 Mar, 08.50.mp3

So - anyone any ideas now? Its had a few views but no thoughts yet.
 
#4 ·
I am considering that but want to give it a few more days here. The 220 is definitely more technically active but there are some differences in the systems. I may have no option but it would be great to get the info here for future w221 owners.
 
#5 ·
There is very little that can go wrong in the strut wrt to ABC. In fact, short of it leaking, or there being an obvious mechanical issue (say, for example, a snapped coil spring) I would not start with it.

The valve block is where the pressure is measured, where the pressure in the strut is determined an where all control is exerted by the car (when you think about it, the strut only has a single hydraulic line connected to it, no electrical connections or anything else etc). If you have the tools I would connect an oscilloscope and a probe to the valve block to determine if your knocking sound is coming from here.

The valve block is co-incidentally located just behind the rear left strut so unfortunately it would be easy to confuse a sound from one as coming from the other.

If I were stabbing in the dark I would say your solenoid on the valve block cannot isolate the strut from the main pressure. Do you have the pressure values for each strut when the car is running?

My rear struts in my CL run about 60-80 bar each, fronts for me are a bit higher (probably due to the weight of the engine?).
 
#6 ·
As it happens I was looking at those pressure values. The rears are 61-65 bar but rescanning will see the rear left throw up 59 bar that is with car in park. Put into gear and the pressure jumps a few bar.

The spec in the star is 60-80. I don't see a way to record the readings to a file of graph in the Star but the iCarsoft does so I might get someone to come out with me a monitor it. Based on that the pressure looks borderline but I only see the error on the left rear. I would imagine the rear right would also drop below the 60 now and again. I assume the software allows for drops to account for coming off a speed ramp or cresting a hill where the struts would extend and therefore there would be a momentary pressure drop.

I did try a mechanics stethoscope on the strut itself but didn't hear anything but then I don't know if it was knocking at the time.

There is the odd groan from that area every now and again. I did a brief rodeo and with my ear close to the rear left I could here it randomly but that may be normal??

Watching all the voltages / currents for the valve and sensors I don't see anything jumping out at me.

I agree the strut should be robust and reliable but the noise wasn't there with the original even with the broken spring. However when I was looking at the originals the broken one was extended almost 50mm further than the right one which was keeping the car level.

I wonder if I should buy a rear valve block and swap it as a complete unit. It might be more time efficient than just swapping the pressure sensor as it won't be whole lot more work. It would eliminate a solenoid issue also.
 
#7 ·
Quick question; the replacement rear strut - was it from Mercedes or elsewhere?

I once replaced my rear struts from a Dutch ABC refurbishing company and experienced some odd behaviour in my rear left strut (not really behaviour so much actually, but rather some odd groans/noises). Eventually it turned out my problem wasn't with the struts so I ended up going back to my original struts which were fine.

If you are inclined - before you swap out the valve block you can swap the struts from one side to the other. The only difference is the way that the top mount is orientated, and the small hose section from the strut to the quick release - if you loosen the top nut slightly (with an impact gun) you can rotate the mount into the correct position for the opposite side. At least this way would save you having to spend more money on parts that you aren't sure about.
 
#8 ·
I'd be 99% sure we are talking about the same supplier. It was a little chilly this morning and it sounded really bad when it was cold when i started driving. No error appeared. Crazy busy this week with work so the chance to do anything is limited for the moment. I don't have a lift so working on this thing is a real pain.

Here's anothert question - has anyone ever butcherd a set of rear shock so they are locked / welded at a fixed height? I am thinking if I did have to pull a shock and return it and was waiting something that could be installed and allow me to move the car out of the way would be a big help. I generally work on the car in the warehouse so chedule things around business jobs but anthing that disables a car for a long period of time is a problem. I'd need to be able to pull it out and back in if needed.
 
#9 ·
Parts arrived so did some checking. I haven't been able to find the WIS for an ABC W221. I have looked at W220 WIS for aromatic but the arm is different on the 221 so wonder if the procedure or location is different?

Does anyone have the appropriate WIS for the level calibration for a W221 S600?
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#10 ·
For ref this is the W220 front level reading position. It's shorter and the WIS says to read the level between the two bumps.

I'll check my star again but I can only find info about the level sensors relating to the headlight leveling system.
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#12 ·
Probably not but if it turns out to be the strut then they can't argue that something wasn't done. I wanted to log all the info correctly with the existing setup for the record also. I just like to document stuff for my own records as much as anything else.
 
#13 ·
So I sat down with coffee and no phone and searched "inclinometer" with my VIN if that makes any difference.

Anyway - after the twenty something doc I found it Ref: AR40.20-P-0301SX
The search threw up lots of docs but appears to be under wheel alignment check. I was searching chassis, suspension, axles etc

Similar location but between the strut mount and where the arm meets the sub frame is where you read the level. Great to have this info but of course the control arm in the pic is different to my ones which I suspect are non OEM and have been replaced. Either way at least both sides are the same so any error due to variation of manufacture will be the same on both sides.

I will complete all the readings tonight, change the sensors and check again before doing any calibrations. The right side is approx 10mm lower so will be interesting to see if the new OEM rods fix that immeadiatley or if the current settings have been changed to accomodate the current DIY repaired rods that are in there now.

2697113
 
#15 ·
You have the wheels up in the air while doing the calibration??? Maybe that is not correct way.
The wheels were on the ground as per the picture. Anyway the issue was sorted with two new rear struts from mercedes and not a third party rebuild company. So lesson learned teh expensive way.