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I second the suggest to find a different plating shop. I think that the splines can be brought back to size pretty easily.
 

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W220 2003 Update S500L, W204 2008 C220 CDI
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Help needed identifying suitable drive shaft numbers

Is there a way of checking suitability of drive propeller shafts for a W220 2003 (Update) S500L (Long Wheel Base)?
I was told the MB # for my car
Chassis Number: 220.175
VIN: WDB 220175 2A 387356 6
Engine Number: 113.960
Motor Nr: 113960 30 527234
Transmission: 7-speed (722.9) 722 901 00 003 799 (Build Code 427 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION 7-SPEED)​
was 2204108706. Am I constrained to just searching for this part number or can I consider similar numbers?
On the Internet there seem to be many other numbers that are described as being suitable. Eg A2204102006 and A2204108106.
Some sites suggest 2204102006 and 2204102106 for a S430 will fit a S500L.
It is all very confusing and as I will be shipping to Australia I need to get it right.
In particular I am looking for a low mileage drive shaft.
So far the one I like the most is from a 2005 S430 with 66,000 miles.
The advertisement says it will fit;
Mercedes S-Class 04-05 220 Type; S430, Canada mkt, LWB, RWD
Mercedes S-Class 04-05 220 Type; S430, US mkt, RWD
Mercedes S-Class 04-06 220 Type; S500, RWD
Mercedes S-Class 06 220 Type; S430, LWB, RWD.

Apart from comparing actual lengths is there a place to look up the specs for these numbers?
Any help much appreciated.
Thanks, Brian
PS Another question. The S500 4matic model is very common in the US. Can I consider drive shafts from these cars?
 

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Cars: 2003 W220.184 (S500L 4matic)
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MB was right.

The part A2204108706 matches only for S430 and S500 (long weel base) with 7speed and it is independent from RD or LD. So the last question is obsolete.
 

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2003 SL500, 2012 E350 4Matic P2
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Before you make your purchase, make sure that you are able to see the actual part # on the drive shaft.

Here is mine, 2001 s430:



And just for reference, your part numbers as displayed in the EPC. The code 427 is the key, 7 speed Transmission as Bullethead referenced.

 

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2009 E350 4M Avant Garde, My Mistress 2002 S600, Wife 2014 C300 4M Avant Garde with AMG
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1,102 Posts
So why are you throwing in the white towel after all the work you've done?

Is it the sliding spline??

Because of the very low and almost constant front/rear shaft angle (which is specified in the MB specs), the only real purpose appears to be the different expansions of chassis (i.e. differential input location) vs auto-tranmission output location due to temperatures, and some of that is accommodated by the flexdisks.

Just note that there may also be a longitudinal axis side-to-side displacement, that you probably can't do anything about (accident?)

There should be little impact from the spline if tight, as you have observed.

If you can't find a good plating shop (I would have tried the hard-chrome first), I would suggest one of the new kinds of "metal spray" paints, as these are pretty good.

And yes, I know taking down the shaft every time is a pain - but you should be good at it by now!
 

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W220 2003 Update S500L, W204 2008 C220 CDI
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Thanks Bullethead_D and especially mercy-me for the EPC data. My STAR SDS will not access EPC for some reason so I really appreciate the confirmation. A lot of shafts on eBay have identification labels stuck on, just as mercy-me showed in his attachment. My OEM shaft did not have any such label, hence my need for confirmation. Thank you again.
Yes Kraut56 I have given up with my tail shaft. The vibration is now worse than before I started. It really ruins a lovely ride.
I would like to source a low mileage shaft suitable for my car. It looks like I will have to only search for shafts with number 2204108706.
I was interested in the 2204102006 which as mercy-me says is for a 2001 S430 because even though it was older, I did find one with low miles.
I am still not 100% sure the S430 shafts would fit my S500L. Any feedback appreciated.
It seems that part 2204102006 for a S430 has been superceded by 2204102106.
I think with all the fiddling on my OEM shafts we have stuffed them completely. Anyway I will not be happy now until I get my super smooth ride quality back.
I should just bite the bullet and buy a new one, but here in Oz they are $3,850 supply only!
If anyone knows where there is a good 2204108706 shaft in UK or Germany I will be there in a couple of weeks and could bring it home in my luggage. Just joking although at 11Kg it would be possible.
Best regards,
Brian
 

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Cars: 2003 W220.184 (S500L 4matic)
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I am still not 100% sure the S430 shafts would fit my S500L. Any feedback appreciated.
It seems that part 2204102006 for a S430 has been superceded by 2204102106.
I think with all the fiddling on my OEM shafts we have stuffed them completely. Anyway I will not be happy now until I get my super smooth ride quality back.
I should just bite the bullet and buy a new one, but here in Oz they are $3,850 supply only!
If anyone knows where there is a good 2204108706 shaft in UK or Germany I will be there in a couple of weeks and could bring it home in my luggage. Just joking although at 11Kg it would be possible.
Best regards,
Brian
Hi Brian,

the 2204102006 has been superceded by 2204102106. But both are for 5speed.

You can take a part from S430 if it is long wheel based and has 7speed.

This evening I will have a look at german sources.
 

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2002 s500, 2004 S500 fourmatic
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Brian:

I've been watching your comments on this problem and find it hard to believe that someone in Australia cannot fabricate a new driveshaft for you. What am I missing here?

Tower
 

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Hi Brian,

it seems to be an effect of globalisation - same problem in the home country of the W220 - no used parts for 7speed.

In D MB has a own online marketplace for used parts - also out of stock or never seen.

For 5speed the prices for used parts differ between 50 and 250€.

But in D the parts are cheaper - see attachment.
 

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W220 2003 Update S500L, W204 2008 C220 CDI
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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Hi Tower and Bullethead_D,
For Tower,
I had already discovered Driveshaft Specialist of Texas. There is another good one in Oregon, Drive Line Services of Portland Oregon.
A few weeks ago I emailed both of them to get a quote for a complete refurbishment of a second hand tail shaft. It should be about US$400. Didn’t ever get a reply.
My intention was to purchase one of the high mileage ones (anywhere from 66,000 to 150,000 miles) on eBay (US$90 – 150) and get the Seller to post to the Texas Workshop (about US$50). Then after they had replaced the UJ and spline I had hoped they would post it to me which would be about another $200.
So I would be up for about US$800 and should have a good as new tail shaft.
Re your comment about getting a new one made in Australia. From my reading it seems the M-B design is rather special. When M-B developed the S-Class, there was no limit on how much they spent, hence the quality and the title of the best car in the world. I do not want to compromise this as I really appreciate the luxurious ride. The tail shaft is not just a couple of pipes welded together but a detailed anti vibration design. Hence the special features; rubber torque couplings both ends, centering bushes for precise alignment, special shape to reduce longitudinal vibration coupled with special welding techniques. I doubt if anyone in Australia could replicate this.
It certainly worked well when new. I just think M-B stuffed up slightly by not allowing the UJs to work a bit harder. They barely move which causes them to wear flat spots. You guys will all discover the same issue one day.

For Bullethead_D,
Thank you so much for the link to the Internet site TEILE-PROFIS or CARPARTS-PROS at Willkommen bei den KFZ Teile Profis. The company is based in Freudenberg which according to Google is about 150Km north of Frankfurt. My travel schedule is too tight for me to get there and back without asking she-who-must-be-obeyed to change her holiday plans. I would really like to personally check the dimensions only because of the proliferation of part numbers and the fact that my OEM shaft did not have a label.
It would certainly be much easier to buy on-line. At EU895 or AU$1,305 plus about EU92 or AU$135 postage it is the best way to go. It will now have to wait until I get back before I order as I would rather be home when the parcel arrives.
I might try sending them my dimensions and ask if they will confirm that it is the correct part.
The other good suggestion is a dealer.
I will not have enough time to visit a M-B dealer in Frankfurt, however it is a possibility in Budapest or Prague (will be with a German speaking friend). Which would you recommend as having the best deal and most likely to have a Kardanwelle A2204108706 in stock. I could then visit them and make a dimension check with a tape measure. I would then be happy to order it with shipping to Australia.
Thanks again for the help. It is much appreciated.
Regards, Brian
 

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Hi Brian,

I do not share your concern. If your car is being repaired in a MB workshop, the workshop will also order just this part only after checking your VIN in the central warehouse.

Only if made ​​not confirming changes to your car with regard to transmission or differential gear this would be a reason to consider everything carefully. Then the problem is severe. I'd checked your engine and gear partnumbers - it fits with my EPC source (see picture).

If my daughter is in America and I need something, I'll let send it to the hotel. We clarify that with the hotel previously. however - this only works if you are staying several days in one place.

If you order online, by phone or fax, always enter your VIN. The supplier will then check again.

I have no ideas about ratio of the prices in Hungary or in Czechoslovakia to German prices.

@all

He who has access to online ESP please check again the part number to make Brian calm.
his VIN
 

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Hi Brian,

through my research I now have a contact to a car recycler in the Netherlands. Apparently he has the right part (would be checked) and he wants € 300. You do not come by chance to the Netherlands (ships worldwide)?

Autoverwertung Altijd Raak B.V.
George Stephensonweg 35
KJ 3133, Vlaardingen
Email: [email protected]
Tel. +31-10-4345506
Fax. +31-10-4345566
Website: --- "ALTIJD RAAK" PENDERS.NL ---
 

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W220 2003 Update S500L, W204 2008 C220 CDI
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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Hi Bullethead_D,
Thankyou very much. You have been extremely helpful.
The Netherlands Dismantlers is very impressive and is a good option for me.
I am now travelling in Europe but will not be able to go to The Netherlands. It is just too far out of my way.
I still prefer the new option that you rerenced recently and will follow that up when I get back home.
Thanks again and best regards, Brian

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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W220 2003 Update S500L, W204 2008 C220 CDI
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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Next Phase of my W220 Propeller Drive Tail Shaft Refurbishment DIY

Well it’s 6 months later and I have to report that the restored ultra smooth and ultra quiet ride quality achieved in my W220 Propeller Drive Tail Shaft Refurbishment DIY at Post #18 only lasted a few weeks. Then the vibration and noise returned worse than ever.
To summarise: My OEM 200,000Km drive shaft (propeller shaft) was making a slight vibration and noise which I diagnosed to be the centre UJ. On inspection out of the car the UJ showed a degree of notchiness. When installed the front and rear shafts are almost directly in-line and so the UJ doesn’t work very hard. I believe the roller bearings do not turn enough and so develop flat spots.
I purchased all new parts for my drive shaft (new centre bearing and mount, new flexi discs, new centring bushes and after a lot of research, a new universal joint). I had the UJ professionally fitted, which included centring the UJ, welding washers to hold the UJ in place and balancing the whole driveshaft including the new flexi discs. (All documented at Post #18)
In the process we discovered that the spline coupling on the drive shaft was somewhat slack. It produced a distinct clicking sound.
After completion this refurbished setup was worse than the original, probably due to our attempts at stiffening the splined joint.
I eventually purchased a second hand drive shaft (80,000Km) on Ebay and had it shipped to Australia from Florida. All for a very reasonable AUD250.
On inspection prior to installation in the car, the ‘new’ 80,000Km UJ showed significant notchiness exactly as had done my OEM 200,000Km one.
I repeated the whole process (new UJ and balancing etc) and have just refitted the second refurbished driveshaft back in the car. It is substantially better than the first refurbished one but about the same as my OEM before I started messing with it.
I am now frustratingly annoyed and will start tracking the vibration from the beginning again. This time I will concentrate on the drive shaft alignment ie engine and transmission mounts etc. The vibration, whirring noise is definitely road speed related and nothing to do with engine RPM. I might even try an alternative set of front wheels first to see if they are the problem. My seat of the pants feeling is that the noise originates just forward of my driver’s seat which would place the problem at the transmission output flange, flexi disc coupling.
Keep you informed. Any ideas much appreciated.
Brian
 

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2003 SL500, 2012 E350 4Matic P2
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Brian,

I too was chasing a slight vibration even after having my driveshaft balanced and changing out my differential. We were all following along with your progress during that time.

Even after doing all this work, I was still getting a slight vibration in the steering wheel between 60-80 MPH. What solved the vibration for me was getting two brand new Nitrogen filled tires installed on the front and having a four wheel high speed balance done. That work completely and I mean completely eliminated my vibration problems! What a relief. (I should have started with the wheels and worked out!)

As to the whining noise, I still hear a slight whine coming from what seems to be the rear of the transmission or center console. It is hardly noticeable and only at lower speeds ie 45-60 MPH. A far cry from the loudness before changing out the diff. I can and will live with that. Most other people can not even hear it anyway.

Good Luck,

Bob
 

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W220 2003 Update S500L, W204 2008 C220 CDI
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Discussion Starter · #37 · (Edited)
W220 Tyre, Wheel and Disk Runout Testing

Thanks for all the good advice. This is where I am at.

Having refurbished the drive shafts, including a new universal joint and centre mount, two new flexi disks and having the whole assembly balanced, I still noticed a slight noise and vibration at the centre to the front of the car, peaking at about 45 to 50 Km/h when driving.
The invaluable Benzworld resource indicated that there were still several possible sources of noise and vibration to check before lashing out on a brand new drive shaft.
With 200,000Km on the odometer I decided that replacing the engine and transmission mounts was probably a necessary option, but first I decided to thoroughly check all sources of runout or tyres out of round, on the front wheels.
It’s a good job I did because the culprit turned out to be my front left tyre which has a runout of 1.27mm.
The attached shows how I came to that conclusion.
Now the question is what new tyres to fit. I am particularly looking for the smoothest and quietest ride rather than cheapest price and am open to suggestions. The OEM fitted tyres are; front 245 x 45 x 18 and rear; 265 x 40 x 18 and are presently Yokohama. I don't know how many miles they have done as they were on the car when I bought it.
Regards,
Brian

2014-03-17 Added in Version 2, DIY tyre sanding technique to remove uneven tyre wear, with measured before and after results.
 

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Brian,

Nice writeup! Again!

Years ago, there used to be a service called "tire shaving" which was advertised along with tire balancing as a service provided at tire dealers. Over the years,(I imagine) tire manufacturers have improved their manufacturing techniques to a point to where roundness is no longer an issue. If you are looking for that perfect condition then maybe shaving is the answer.

A cursory search returned this Australian company that does "tire shaving".

Might be an avenue to consider either with your present tires or even with a new set.

Good Luck,

Bob
 

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Tire balancing

from lots of experience on my E350 with 18 inch tires, I suggest you get balancing done using the Hunter "Road Force" system machine.

You can google for details and location, but my MB dealer has it. In addition to dynamic balance, it adds compensation due to the varying spring force in the tire, by putting a rolling load on it.

It's a shame that many of the 18 inch aftermarket tires easily require up to 2.5 ounces of weights.
 

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W220 2003 Update S500L, W204 2008 C220 CDI
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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Success at Last - No More Vibration!

After a lot of effort I have now eliminated all drive train vibration and associated noises in my W220 2003 Update S500L. I am just so pleased! It took over 12 months with a lot of research and trial and error but the results were worth it. These cars have truly outstanding ride quality both in terms of low noise and smooth ride.
The final clue to success was provided by BenzWorld member ‘mercy-me’ who gave me the idea that my unevenly worn tyres may be salvageable by shaving them. This led me to think that I might be able to achieve the same effect using my belt sander. As the tyres were almost worn out I had nothing to lose.
I rigged up a wheel rotation device using my variable speed electric drill and used my disk sander to sand the tyre treads. The measured results showed a significant improvement in peak to peak runout on both front tyres.
My road test was even more impressive. I couldn’t believe how good it was! On a good surfaced road, there is just no noise or vibrations at all. On a rougher road surface there is still some tyre noise but no more than normal. I am very pleased with the ride quality that I have achieved. It is certainly now up to the very high standard that is expected for an S-Class. It may even be better with brand new tyres, especially if I get the latest low noise ones.
Thanks BenzWorld members for all the help.
Brian
PS If you are interested in what I did and the results, I have updated the attachment in Post #37 above.
 
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