[iMissMyW140]

Hi everyone, my brother and I picked up a 2004 s430 for my dad about 3 weeks ago. This forum has been so valuable in trying to figure out some of the issues the car has. To give back, I created a writeup to help anyone trying to install an Erisin Head unit in a w220 with MOST. I decided to bypass the amplifier per the many posts I have read on this forum. I am new to the w220 platform but I have spent many hours learning as much as I can about the platform and tried to be as accurate as I can with the information provided. I hope many of you find this useful. Thanks

 

[cowboyt]

This is a nice write-up. Straight to the W220 Android sticky--thank you for doing this.

EDIT: I would like to also note that IMissMyW140's method is essentially the same procedure as you would use on the earlier D2B-based W220's (Dave2302's and my cars). The idea in both cases is to bypass the fiber-optic factory amp in the trunk and go directly with copper to the speakers. This is really the right way to do an aftermarket head-unit conversion.

 

[dr3dee]

Hi everyone, my brother and I picked up a 2004 s430 for my dad about 3 weeks ago. This forum has been so valuable in trying to figure out some of the issues the car has. To give back, I created a writeup to help anyone trying to install an Erisin Head unit in a w220 with MOST. I decided to bypass the amplifier per the many posts I have read on this forum. I am new to the w220 platform but I have spent many hours learning as much as I can about the platform and tried to be as accurate as I can with the information provided. I hope many of you find this useful. Thanks

Will this work with all the 10.1 androids? I bought one from Rover One. My tech said hell no because there were on instructions. We wanted to keep the stock amp in play with a optic adaptor, yet have not been able to find the right one.If the ohms of the radio and speakers match, I would do your setup.

 

[cowboyt]

The basic method works with all aftermarket head-unit conversions, because you're essentially converting the car from fiber-optic to copper, like just about every other car out there. "Can" you keep the stock amp inplay with an optic adaptor? Yes, you can, but the sound quality won't be as good as you'd expect. The reasons for that are detailed in the Android sticky post at the top of the W220 forum, currently page 11.

Android head unit install, anyone have questions?

Sheesh, Dave. Now you have the poor man running scared.... What you're forgetting is the stereo signal being broadcast over the airwaves is only two channels to begin with. There's no surround sound, no "rear projected" signals to be decoded and used only by the rear channels. There's just left...

www.benzworld.org

Now, as to your question about speakers...keep reading that thread, and you'll understand why I replaced the factory Bose speakers in the doors with aftermarket ones. I chose the Phoenix Gold coaxial models because I found that they sounded best to my ear and were also pretty darn affordable for the quality of sound that they give you. The short version is that the factory Bose speakers do benefit from "Bose equalization" and are also 2-ohms. The Erisin Android units can handle 2-ohm speakers; that's not the problem. The problem is the Bose equalization curve that the factory speakers are expecting to get from the head unit. Read that part of the thread, and it'll make more sense.

 

[iMissMyW140]

Will this work with all the 10.1 androids? I bought one from Rover One. My tech said hell no because there were on instructions. We wanted to keep the stock amp in play with a optic adaptor, yet have not been able to find the right one.If the ohms of the radio and speakers match, I would do your setup.

We purchased our s430 with a broken COMMAND unit so we never got to hear what the car sound system sounded with the bose amplifier wired up. I will say however that with the Bose amp bypassed and the center dash, rear deck subwoofer and deck speakers connected, the car speakers sound much better than the bose stereo in my Corvette (not that it means much) and my sister's harmon kardon system in a ghibli. As cowboyt has stated above, there are multiple threads answering many of the questions you have concerning your install. If you decide to retain your amplifier, there is a nice writeup I found if you google the term "W220 ERISIN Head Unit Install With M.O.S.T Fiber Optic Audio."

 

[Arhippa]

I really admired the Bose sound,while I had it in my car.There´s this Lady Gaga song "Jewelry and Drugs"with a very low ongoing undertone(is that the right word?).The first time I listened to the song,I got worried if there´s something wrong with the car,where is this doomsday sound coming from?.It sounded so powerful,and the sound quality overall was impressive.

 

[cowboyt]

Oh, I agree, the factory Bose system does sound good. The S600 still has it, as does Dad's car. I don't think that's really the issue, rather, it's, "what do we do when the factory system starts having problems?" I think that's where the Android option makes a lot of sense. But, yeah, ain't nuttin' wrong with the audio quality of the factory system.

My wife's car got the conversion because her factory (Bose) head unit finally started dying after nearly 20 years. Not sure why it did, but it did. But it sounded great before then.

 

[dr3dee]

We purchased our s430 with a broken COMMAND unit so we never got to hear what the car sound system sounded with the bose amplifier wired up. I will say however that with the Bose amp bypassed and the center dash, rear deck subwoofer and deck speakers connected, the car speakers sound much better than the bose stereo in my Corvette (not that it means much) and my sister's harmon kardon system in a ghibli. As cowboyt has stated above, there are multiple threads answering many of the questions you have concerning your install. If you decide to retain your amplifier, there is a nice writeup I found if you google the term "W220 ERISIN Head Unit Install With M.O.S.T Fiber Optic Audio."

I found this and will call seeing it the Bose sound can be retained. https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-183903-NAV-TV-NTV-KIT-501.html

 

[cowboyt]

It'll work, though the price for it does seem rather high. Should you go this route, then understand that you'll be getting the equalization curve from only the front speakers, so the sound quality might not meet your expectations. But it will function.

 

[dr3dee]

It'll work, though the price for it does seem rather high. Should you go this route, then understand that you'll be getting the equalization curve from only the front speakers, so the sound quality might not meet your expectations. But it will function.

So I called the seller. They were very knowledgeable. Their tech stated the adaptor is more stable than the cheap one's and directly takes the command fiber optic to the adapter. No splicing required. He also added that a good pair of Y- type RCA adaptors and add to the rear channel may help with the equalization, but not much.

 

[cowboyt]

All those adaptors hook up like that with no splicing. That's what makes them seem so attractive. He's right about the Y-type RCA adaptors not helping much, because you still need the two outputs for the rear speakers to get proper equalization in the car. At least he's acknowledging that.

The really right way is how we detailed it in the Android thread, namely running that wiring harness from the head unit, under the interior carpet, to the rear of the car and splicing it in per the wiring diagram.

 

[Mario MBCL]

The basic method works with all aftermarket head-unit conversions, because you're essentially converting the car from fiber-optic to copper, like just about every other car out there. "Can" you keep the stock amp inplay with an optic adaptor? Yes, you can, but the sound quality won't be as good as you'd expect. The reasons for that are detailed in the Android sticky post at the top of the W220 forum, currently page 11.

Android head unit install, anyone have questions?

Sheesh, Dave. Now you have the poor man running scared.... What you're forgetting is the stereo signal being broadcast over the airwaves is only two channels to begin with. There's no surround sound, no "rear projected" signals to be decoded and used only by the rear channels. There's just left...

www.benzworld.org

Now, as to your question about speakers...keep reading that thread, and you'll understand why I replaced the factory Bose speakers in the doors with aftermarket ones. I chose the Phoenix Gold coaxial models because I found that they sounded best to my ear and were also pretty darn affordable for the quality of sound that they give you. The short version is that the factory Bose speakers do benefit from "Bose equalization" and are also 2-ohms. The Erisin Android units can handle 2-ohm speakers; that's not the problem. The problem is the Bose equalization curve that the factory speakers are expecting to get from the head unit. Read that part of the thread, and it'll make more sense.

Hello Cowboyt .
At the very beginning I want to apologize in advance for the weak English.

I am a layman in the field of audio installation, and my humble knowledge has recently increased only thanks to studying various forums, but I obtained the most valuable information thanks to you and "Dave2302" so here I want to convey respect for the great project of installing the Android radio installation replacing the archaic Comand 2.5 or Comand-APS and creating the entire encyclopedia regarding various changes and add -ons.

I am a mechanic with over 30 years of experience, but I have never done any radio installation.

Such works were dealt with by my employees, but after selling the workshops in 2017 they had to go to Germany in search of work, because with the new owner of my workshops, they could not communicate absolutely and my contact with them broke up completely and today I have to look for support on the Internet.

I have several cars of one model, i.e. the CL55 AMG 360 and 500 HP, one car (with the highest mileage 120k km) I want to donate to my son and therefore I want to change the radio to more suited to the present time, and this is certainly not Comand 2.5 which does not bother me However, he is a drama for a young man.

My intentions apply to the 2002 model, i.e. based on the D2B installation. I gained basic knowledge from reading a lot of information in this forum:

Android head unit install, anyone have questions?

The radio I want to mount is Klyde:

The basic specification, which the company can adapt according to my wishes, but I will not change anything, because I have no idea about it:

OS: Android 12 system
CPU: MT8667 Cotex A75*2Core+A55*6 Core
Main Frenqency:1.8GHz
RAM+ROM : 8GB+128GB
Capacitive multi-touch screen
GPS+Radio+Amplifer+AUX IN+DVR+DSP+WIFI
Radio:NXP TEF6686
4G LTE+BT5.0 (support tripartite calls)
Parrot BT
1080P AHD reverse camera input+CANBUS

Earlier I was interested in radio Erisin to which you pointed to in my posts, but after longer research and hints from the Chinese friends with whom I have been cooperating for years by importing CNC milling machines from China, I came to the conclusion that Klyde, or rather "SzKlyde" is the mother of many companies And most likely Erisin also, where he creates small mounting plants to make little Firek look like the manufacturer, and in fact he is only a glass monter.

They are much more plastic and can introduce a lot of changes if you need such, I always talk from the position of Alibaba, i.e. the manufacturers' portal, not Aliexpress or similar which are not for sales traders not their product, so I talk to them and it goes very well, because always When I order something new, it is treated as a test sample, not a regular purchase, then the manufacturer must climb higher if he wants to have a new customer to buy more pieces.

I have a few very important questions for me, if you want to answer me, I will be extremely grateful for it, because I collect basic information for the fitter I have here, and I currently live in such a wild field that I have 49 km to a small town, and to Warsaw , i.e. the city in which I conducted workshops over 350 km, so I found who I could, he has knowledge enough to mount the installation if I tell him what to use, because he cannot advise myself and hence my search in the subject I do not know.

You carried out various installations and can the .pdf diagram posted above by "iMissMyW140" be applied to MB CL55 2002 with D2B? because the given diagram applies to the newer model, i.e. the MOST after the facelift in 2003.
I also have newer models, but I'm not going to rebuild them, because they are rare cars and there are fewer and fewer of them, and I want them to keep as much of the original as possible.

It is known that in the model before the facelift you have to cut the console to fit any other radio, but cutting the console and perfect fit lies in my competences and skills, and even passion, because I like to create new things and rebuild the old ones.
The radio has a built-in CAN decoder and no decoder with a wiring harness is needed, it also has probably five audio channels if I'm not mistaken, because for me it's black magic.

I want to install an amplifier for all speakers, run a cable for 6 channels to RCA, but I have a dilemma here, because the radio has only one RCA output for SUB, and if not all, then most amplifiers have two inputs for SUB, should I use a splitter or some other way to connect it?

Below I will give you a list of amplifiers that I am considering, but I would like to emphasize once again that this is not based on technical knowledge, but only on brands that I know and I will be grateful if you tell me which one would be good:

01 - Phoenix Gold RX2-750.5 wzmacniacz 5-kanałowy - sklep Centrum Audio
02 - Phoenix Gold SX1200.5 - sklep Centrum Audio
03 - JL Audio RD900/5 - Wzmacniacze 5 Kanałowe
04 - Hertz ML Power 5 - Wzmacniacze 5 Kanałowe
05 - Hertz HCP 5D - Wzmacniacze 5 Kanałowe
06 - Hertz HDP 5 - Wzmacniacze 5 Kanałowe
07 - Audison SR 5 - Wzmacniacze 5 Kanałowe
08 - https://www.audiosklep.pl/audison-sr-5600-p12178
09 - https://www.audiosklep.pl/alpine-s-a55v-p10167
10 - https://www.audiosklep.pl/alpine-x-a90v-p6787

I know that there is a very large discrepancy in power and price, but I don't know about it and that's why I choose with my eyes, not with my mind, maybe these amplifiers will blow Bose speakers into space, or maybe they will be too weak, I don't know, because it only a professional can know, because I don't even know what the power of the original Bose amplifier is.

Another very important and strange thing for me is how to run the "LM Benz" cable and whether to run it at all if the whole bundle of wires goes to the amplifier from the RCA radio?

I assume that there must be something going on in the "LM Benz" cable, because there are probably not only speaker cables, and maybe it would be good to connect the so-called high-level cables to the amplifier, i.e. those from the "LM Benz" cable, and not from the RCA outputs?

A possible change that I still want to make is to replace the speakers in the door as you described in one of your posts, i.e. "Phoenix Gold 6.5", model SX65CX"

I found the speakers in Sweden, they have 4Ω and other speakers in Bose have 2Ω, and does it not interfere with each other?

Can you tell me where the CAN bus is located in the car? from what I read on the forum, it is under the floor of the front seat but I do not know if this is good information.

Thanks in advance for your help and advice.
Regards,
Mariusz

 

[cowboyt]

Hello Mariusz, and welcome to BenzWorld!

The CL500 (C215 chassis) will use a similar system to the S500 (W220 chassis), so the information in the W220 Android thread will apply to your car as well.

There are two good ways to power the speakers. The first is the method that you are considering, with the external 4-channel amplifier. 4DGeorge likes and uses this method. To use this method, you'd run an RCA-style cable, 6-metres long, for each of the following low-power, or pre-amplifier, outputs from the Android head unit to the trunk (boot).

Front-Left ("FL")
Front Right ("FR")
Rear-Left ("RL")
Rear-Right ("RR")
Subwoofer-Out ("SUB")

That's five RCA-style cables. The FL, FR, RL, and RR cables will plug into the 4-channel power amplifier that you choose from your above list, and any of them look sufficient for this task. A separate power amplifier--preferably a small "Class D" amplifier, but any decent amplifier will work well--is also recommended for the 25 cm (10 inch) woofer behind the rear passenger seats. Any good quality amplifier ranging from 100 to 300 watts RMS will do very well; I use an Alpine MFP-500 (300 watts RMS output). The SUB cable will plug into that separate power amplifier. Then you will need to find good places to securely mount your two amplifiers. After that, you'd splice the power outputs from those amplifiers into the correct speaker wires, using your preferred method.

The second good way to power the speakers, and the method that Dave2302 and I used. Instead of the external 4-channel amplifier for the door speakers (FL, FR, RL, and RR), we used the Android head unit's built-in power amplifier. It turns out that the Android unit's built-in amplifier is both powerful enough and high-quality enough to power the door speakers. This is where one would use the LMBENZ-6m cable, from the Android head unit to the trunk (boot). The difference here is that the LMBENZ-6m cable is coming from the Android head unit's *high-power", or power-amplifier, outputs. You would then splice the LMBENZ-6m cable directly into the correct speaker wires, again, using your preferred method.

But what about the 25-cm (10 inch) woofer, though? How do we power that? Well, that's where I ran a single 6-metre-long RCA-style cable from the Android unit's SUB output, hooking that up to a good quality (Alpine MFP-500, in my case) Class D bass amplifier. I then spliced that bass amplifier's speaker outputs into the 25-cm woofer's speaker cables. Note that this woofer also is a 2-ohm unit. However, my bass amplifier has no problem powering 2-ohm loads.

The major difference here between the two methods is as follows. In the first method, you're purchasing and hooking up two external power amplifiers. That means you need to find space, cooling, and 12V power sources for both of them. In the second method, you're purchasing and hooking up only one external power amplifier (the SUB amplifier). Both, however, will sound equally good.

You might be asking, "do I really need to power that 25-cm rear woofer?" No, it's not an absolute requirement. But you really should for optimum sound quality if you're going to go to all this trouble anyway.

Now, let's discuss the speakers. You are correct that the Bose speakers have a 2-ohm impedance. It turns out that the Android unit's built-in power amplifier can power them, if you use the second method. However, there's another problem. The factory door speakers require a special equalization curve that we commonly call, "Bose equalization" or "Bose EQ", otherwise they will sound rather flat due to a lack of treble. The COMAND 2.5 head unit, being a Bose unit, has that Bose EQ in its preamplifier output stage. However, that's been replaced by the Android unit, which has the standard equalization curve that everyone else uses. Therefore, your sound output will not be optimal.

My solution was to purchase a set of four aftermarket coaxial speakers for the doors. The model that I chose was the Phoenix Gold RX65CX, a coaxial model, but you can choose any similar speaker that sounds good to your ear. These, of course, use the standard 4-ohm input. The factory Bose tweeter thus becomes redundant, but I left it in anyway because it doesn't hurt at all to do so. Can you use an aftermarket component speaker, i. e. one with the tweeter physically separate from the main cone? Yes, of course, but it adds time to the installation and doesn't actually improve the quality of the sound. Coaxial speakers are just easier here and sound just as good.

You do not need to replace the 25-cm woofer unless it's actually damaged.

From there, you can tune your sound output to your liking, using the Android unit's built-in equalizer.

And that's how I did it.

 

[Mario MBCL]

Hello Mariusz, and welcome to BenzWorld!

The CL500 (C215 chassis) will use a similar system to the S500 (W220 chassis), so the information in the W220 Android thread will apply to your car as well.

There are two good ways to power the speakers. The first is the method that you are considering, with the external 4-channel amplifier. 4DGeorge likes and uses this method. To use this method, you'd run an RCA-style cable, 6-metres long, for each of the following low-power, or pre-amplifier, outputs from the Android head unit to the trunk (boot).

Front-Left ("FL")
Front Right ("FR")
Rear-Left ("RL")
Rear-Right ("RR")
Subwoofer-Out ("SUB")

That's five RCA-style cables. The FL, FR, RL, and RR cables will plug into the 4-channel power amplifier that you choose from your above list, and any of them look sufficient for this task. A separate power amplifier--preferably a small "Class D" amplifier, but any decent amplifier will work well--is also recommended for the 25 cm (10 inch) woofer behind the rear passenger seats. Any good quality amplifier ranging from 100 to 300 watts RMS will do very well; I use an Alpine MFP-500 (300 watts RMS output). The SUB cable will plug into that separate power amplifier. Then you will need to find good places to securely mount your two amplifiers. After that, you'd splice the power outputs from those amplifiers into the correct speaker wires, using your preferred method.

The second good way to power the speakers, and the method that Dave2302 and I used. Instead of the external 4-channel amplifier for the door speakers (FL, FR, RL, and RR), we used the Android head unit's built-in power amplifier. It turns out that the Android unit's built-in amplifier is both powerful enough and high-quality enough to power the door speakers. This is where one would use the LMBENZ-6m cable, from the Android head unit to the trunk (boot). The difference here is that the LMBENZ-6m cable is coming from the Android head unit's *high-power", or power-amplifier, outputs. You would then splice the LMBENZ-6m cable directly into the correct speaker wires, again, using your preferred method.

But what about the 25-cm (10 inch) woofer, though? How do we power that? Well, that's where I ran a single 6-metre-long RCA-style cable from the Android unit's SUB output, hooking that up to a good quality (Alpine MFP-500, in my case) Class D bass amplifier. I then spliced that bass amplifier's speaker outputs into the 25-cm woofer's speaker cables. Note that this woofer also is a 2-ohm unit. However, my bass amplifier has no problem powering 2-ohm loads.

The major difference here between the two methods is as follows. In the first method, you're purchasing and hooking up two external power amplifiers. That means you need to find space, cooling, and 12V power sources for both of them. In the second method, you're purchasing and hooking up only one external power amplifier (the SUB amplifier). Both, however, will sound equally good.

You might be asking, "do I really need to power that 25-cm rear woofer?" No, it's not an absolute requirement. But you really should for optimum sound quality if you're going to go to all this trouble anyway.

Now, let's discuss the speakers. You are correct that the Bose speakers have a 2-ohm impedance. It turns out that the Android unit's built-in power amplifier can power them, if you use the second method. However, there's another problem. The factory door speakers require a special equalization curve that we commonly call, "Bose equalization" or "Bose EQ", otherwise they will sound rather flat due to a lack of treble. The COMAND 2.5 head unit, being a Bose unit, has that Bose EQ in its preamplifier output stage. However, that's been replaced by the Android unit, which has the standard equalization curve that everyone else uses. Therefore, your sound output will not be optimal.

My solution was to purchase a set of four aftermarket coaxial speakers for the doors. The model that I chose was the Phoenix Gold RX65CX, a coaxial model, but you can choose any similar speaker that sounds good to your ear. These, of course, use the standard 4-ohm input. The factory Bose tweeter thus becomes redundant, but I left it in anyway because it doesn't hurt at all to do so. Can you use an aftermarket component speaker, i. e. one with the tweeter physically separate from the main cone? Yes, of course, but it adds time to the installation and doesn't actually improve the quality of the sound. Coaxial speakers are just easier here and sound just as good.

You do not need to replace the 25-cm woofer unless it's actually damaged.

From there, you can tune your sound output to your liking, using the Android unit's built-in equalizer.

And that's how I did it.

Thank you for such valuable advice, I am impressed, because I wrote a question to someone on another portal and he avoids them with a wide berth, and puts his next improvements, as if it would be an advertising pillar for the parts he uses and he is not interested in what someone asks about.

It's different here, when I came across your posts and "Dave2302" where you went through the installation step by step and described everything, I knew it would be a good place to ask, and maybe even advise someone if someone, for example, wanted to convert ABC on the thread, which I know quite well.

Coming back to the topic, I didn't think to leave the SUB without an amplifier, because I want to power all the speakers.

I was just wondering if the "LM Benz" cable is even needed when I run a whole bunch of new RCA cables from the radio to the trunk, but does the "LM Benz" have other wires besides the speaker wires?

So what to do then, run two thick cables with unnecessary speaker wires in "LM Benz" or cut them out of this cable?

I don't know if I understood you correctly (I have problems with English, because when I went to school there was only the language of the USSR) that should give two amplifiers, i.e. one 4-channel and the other separate, for SUB?

I chose 5-channel amplifiers, and they are probably quite good brands that have SUB inputs and I thought that it would be enough, because some of them cost around 700 - 800 USD due to the weak PLN exchange rate.

Regarding the speakers in the doors, you can buy many things in Poland, but I have no idea what to look for and I rely on what someone who is a specialist says, i.e. when you talked about the "Phoenix Gold 6.5" speakers, model SX65CX "these are I searched and found all the way to Sweden, because I have no one to consult about what I wrote earlier and I have to look for everything myself, and it is difficult when you have no idea about something.

I have an installer who will install everything I deliver to him, but that's not the point, because good advice is needed from the side and that's why I'm talking to you and thank you again for your solid approach.

SZKLYDE technician said they can install ViPER4Android, do you think it makes sense?

 

[cowboyt]

The LMBENZ harness also has power cables, but I don't believe you'll need the LMBENZ if you run the RCA cables instead. You have the power for the Android head unit at the front. You also have power for your 5-channel amplifier at the rear, from the connector to the factory power amplifier. I would, however, strongly recommend running a 6-metre blue wire from the Android head unit to the "wake-up" connector of your aftermarket amplifier. This way, that amp will turn off when you shut off the car, thus not draining your car battery overnight.

While you're at it, I also would recommend running the cables for a rear-view backup camera and anything else that you might think handy later on.

I've not used ViPER4Android. We found the sound good enough using Android's built-in equalizer. But I see no reason not to install it if you think it'll be helpful.

To select our 6.5-inch (16.5-cm) speakers, I went to a local car audio shop with three of my favourite music CD's and auditioned several sets of speakers. The Phoenix Gold 6.5 coax speakers were the ones that sounded the best to me. In a previous installation (a 1997 Honda Civic), I ended up installing Infinity speakers after auditioning several models in a different store. This is the same sort of procedure I would recommend for you, auditioning several models and buying the one that you like.

 

[Mario MBCL]

The LMBENZ harness also has power cables, but I don't believe you'll need the LMBENZ if you run the RCA cables instead. You have the power for the Android head unit at the front. You also have power for your 5-channel amplifier at the rear, from the connector to the factory power amplifier. I would, however, strongly recommend running a 6-metre blue wire from the Android head unit to the "wake-up" connector of your aftermarket amplifier. This way, that amp will turn off when you shut off the car, thus not draining your car battery overnight.

While you're at it, I also would recommend running the cables for a rear-view backup camera and anything else that you might think handy later on.

I've not used ViPER4Android. We found the sound good enough using Android's built-in equalizer. But I see no reason not to install it if you think it'll be helpful.

To select our 6.5-inch (16.5-cm) speakers, I went to a local car audio shop with three of my favourite music CD's and auditioned several sets of speakers. The Phoenix Gold 6.5 coax speakers were the ones that sounded the best to me. In a previous installation (a 1997 Honda Civic), I ended up installing Infinity speakers after auditioning several models in a different store. This is the same sort of procedure I would recommend for you, auditioning several models and buying the one that you like.

I understand that in this case, the radio should be installed normally to the harness under the dashboard?

What about Canbus then, or connecting it to the radio, will anything change when all the wires from the original Bose amplifier are removed and the amplifier itself is also thrown in the trash?

When you talk about the blue "wake-up" cable, do you mean the blue cable that is attached to these wires from the link?

LTC LX Z408 Kabel sygnałowy 2x2RCA+ kabel sterujący 5m - sklep Centrum Audio

Of course, I will find such a bundle for all RCA outputs, and this is just an example of a cable, is this the one my need?
I also understand that you do not need to create new connections to the amplifier, but use those from the Bose amplifier?

With speakers, you have a very good approach, because then you choose the ones that suit you best, but I'm making a car for my son in secret because it's supposed to be a gift, so I'll buy the speakers that you bought and they will definitely be good, because I noticed that you attach great importance to detail and quality, and that says a lot.

I only notice a small dilemma, because from what I remember, when I disassembled the door panels, when I replaced or repaired the suction element or triangle seals, etc. CL probably has two loudspeakers in the door, because the door is as big as a barn door.

It is different in the W220, because it has a door in the back and now it is not known what the other loudspeaker in the CL is like, and my cars are 50 km from the house in the underground garage because they do not drive in the winter, so I will have to wait and when one of the CLs comes to the house, then I'll take the door apart and see if the two are the same or different.

 

[dr3dee]

I understand that in this case, the radio should be installed normally to the harness under the dashboard?

What about Canbus then, or connecting it to the radio, will anything change when all the wires from the original Bose amplifier are removed and the amplifier itself is also thrown in the trash?

When you talk about the blue "wake-up" cable, do you mean the blue cable that is attached to these wires from the link?

LTC LX Z408 Kabel sygnałowy 2x2RCA+ kabel sterujący 5m - sklep Centrum Audio

Of course, I will find such a bundle for all RCA outputs, and this is just an example of a cable, is this the one my need?
I also understand that you do not need to create new connections to the amplifier, but use those from the Bose amplifier?

With speakers, you have a very good approach, because then you choose the ones that suit you best, but I'm making a car for my son in secret because it's supposed to be a gift, so I'll buy the speakers that you bought and they will definitely be good, because I noticed that you attach great importance to detail and quality, and that says a lot.

I only notice a small dilemma, because from what I remember, when I disassembled the door panels, when I replaced or repaired the suction element or triangle seals, etc. CL probably has two loudspeakers in the door, because the door is as big as a barn door.

It is different in the W220, because it has a door in the back and now it is not known what the other loudspeaker in the CL is like, and my cars are 50 km from the house in the underground garage because they do not drive in the winter, so I will have to wait and when one of the CLs comes to the house, then I'll take the door apart and see if the two are the same or different.

Mario. I am doing the same platform. Bose D2B COMMAND. I chose AVIN digital to analog. Fallback is only 2 channel, no fader options. Keeps the Bose amp and requires just the head unit replacement and decoder box. Visit the website and ask questions on their e=mail systems, and include the VIN number of the car. They can send the right adaptor. ShipStation

 

[Mario MBCL]

Mario. I am doing the same platform. Bose D2B COMMAND. I chose AVIN digital to analog. Fallback is only 2 channel, no fader options. Keeps the Bose amp and requires just the head unit replacement and decoder box. Visit the website and ask questions on their e=mail systems, and include the VIN number of the car. They can send the right adaptor. ShipStation

Hello dr3dee,
thank you for the information.

Even before I decided to gut all the Bose junk and desecrate one of the pre-facelift CL55 AMG cars, of which there are only a handful, I wrote to NAV-TV because they probably also have a good interface, but unfortunately they only have it since 2004, i.e. on MOST and I have D2B.

I saw Navin, but under the interface offer there is a choice of years to which you can buy and it comes out 2003 - 2009, so I didn't even write, and I didn't even think to put these Chinese crap and waste time, because I think that one risk with buying a radio from China is enough.

I'll rebuild it all like "cowboyt" and "Dave2302" did, and just add a good amp for all the speakers and replace the speakers in the doors. They are smart people, they did it with a lot of work and it works as it should, so it will work for me too.

Are you rebuilding the CL too?
then maybe you know what speakers are in the door, because there are two for one door, is it a pair of the same or different?

I've taken it apart dozens of times, but I've never been interested in some speakers, but something completely different.

 

[cowboyt]

I understand that in this case, the radio should be installed normally to the harness under the dashboard?

Yes, the power harness. Since you're running the RCA cables, the power harness is all you should need there.

What about Canbus then, or connecting it to the radio, will anything change when all the wires from the original Bose amplifier are removed and the amplifier itself is also thrown in the trash?

You will need CANbus. Fortunately, you can use the CANbus wires from the now-unused factory wiring harness for the original COMAND unit. On my car, these are the green and white pair.

When you talk about the blue "wake-up" cable, do you mean the blue cable that is attached to these wires from the link?

LTC LX Z408 Kabel sygnałowy 2x2RCA+ kabel sterujący 5m - sklep Centrum Audio

Of course, I will find such a bundle for all RCA outputs, and this is just an example of a cable, is this the one my need?

Yes, that cable looks like it will do very nicely. That small blue wire is the one I was talking about for "wake-up".

I also understand that you do not need to create new connections to the amplifier, but use those from the Bose amplifier?

You will be bypassing the factory Bose amplifier (the one in the trunk/boot) completely. Actually, you can remove it, as I did. You will be splicing your new 5-channel amp directly into the set of speaker wires that normally plugs into that factory Bose amp.

With speakers, you have a very good approach, because then you choose the ones that suit you best, but I'm making a car for my son in secret because it's supposed to be a gift, so I'll buy the speakers that you bought and they will definitely be good, because I noticed that you attach great importance to detail and quality, and that says a lot.

Ah, it's a surprise gift! Gotcha. Well, I think they're good, and I hope that your faith in my musical ear is justified in the end.

One other thing. Please, don't be concerned about your English. It's actually rather good, and it's much better than my Polski.

 

[dr3dee]

Hello dr3dee,
thank you for the information.

Even before I decided to gut all the Bose junk and desecrate one of the pre-facelift CL55 AMG cars, of which there are only a handful, I wrote to NAV-TV because they probably also have a good interface, but unfortunately they only have it since 2004, i.e. on MOST and I have D2B.

I saw Navin, but under the interface offer there is a choice of years to which you can buy and it comes out 2003 - 2009, so I didn't even write, and I didn't even think to put these Chinese crap and waste time, because I think that one risk with buying a radio from China is enough.

I'll rebuild it all like "cowboyt" and "Dave2302" did, and just add a good amp for all the speakers and replace the speakers in the doors. They are smart people, they did it with a lot of work and it works as it should, so it will work for me too.

Are you rebuilding the CL too?
then maybe you know what speakers are in the door, because there are two for one door, is it a pair of the same or different?

I've taken it apart dozens of times, but I've never been interested in some speakers, but something completely different.

I have a 2004 S430. It has tweeters and a 6" speaker in the front doors. This is why I chose to keep the Bose amp