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Hi there, i have a e320 03 With airmatic and 4matic.it wont raise even though i hear The compressor running, tried changing valve block and searching for leaks. Its bottomed out in all 4 corners. When i start The car The compressor runs for about 1min and then shuts off and nothing has changed. Would love some ideas as to what it could be
 

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'87 560 SEC, Pearl Grey/blue; 300,000+ mi; '07 CLS 550, Barolo/stone; 90,000+ mi
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In my experience, I had one front strut go out, and after a few days the whole car sagged. You're lucky the compressor hasn't burned out yet if this is an ongoing problem.
 

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In my experience, I had one front strut go out, and after a few days the whole car sagged. You're lucky the compressor hasn't burned out yet if this is an ongoing problem.
I dont currently drive it, its in The garage ever since it sagged, yeah i had it at my local benz dealer and they couldnt find anything wrong 🙄
 

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'87 560 SEC, Pearl Grey/blue; 300,000+ mi; '07 CLS 550, Barolo/stone; 90,000+ mi
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Bizzare. Especially the dealer, they could use that as an excuse to really replace a lot of costly parts. Just doesn't make any sense. Did you have it towed there and back? A warning message should have come on the cluster.
 

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Yeah i had it towed on a flatbed. I got the red warning (stop car to low). Ive tried changing the valve block and nothing, thinking the ape that tried reparing it May have manhandled it and might have "dislocated" the struts. They said that it might be the left strut that is f*cked. But They still wanted like 4k euro. Cant find Any leaks either. But yeah what you said about 1 strut failing and then the whole car sagges sounds the same as mine atm
 

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'87 560 SEC, Pearl Grey/blue; 300,000+ mi; '07 CLS 550, Barolo/stone; 90,000+ mi
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One of my rears is slightly lower than the rest--my independent mechanic (former dealership mechanic) said that there are two bags--one internal, and an exterior boot bellow dust cover. The internal one can be leaking, but not obvious like the front ones with a single accordion bellow, particularly after the bubble spray test. To use a factory replacement, the rear subframe has to be removed, which is probably a large percentage of the thousands you mentioned, plus the factory strut will be anywhere between $1,400-$2,300 dealership. Arnott makes a perfectly suitable aftermarket airmatic version that's set up more simply, which makes removing the rear subframe moot. You won't notice a difference. The repair should be closer to $1,200-$1,700 in this case. Do you have a nearby reputable independent Mercedes specialist?

By the way, my ancestors moved from Hamburg to Gotland (Visby) in the 1600s, then to Wisconsin about a hundred years ago.
 

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Mine is fucked in The front, so not that bad of a replacement from what ive seen and tried. Been thinking about The anrott strut but dont wanna buy it u less im 100% sure that its The strut thats faulty. I dont really have a independent mercedes guy but i got a pretry darn good mechanic. Ah glad there's a fellow viking blod here
 

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1981 380SLC, 1993 E400 (Totaled stopping a cement truck) 1997 E420, 2003 E500
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Hi there, i have a e320 03 With airmatic and 4matic.it wont raise even though i hear The compressor running, tried changing valve block and searching for leaks. Its bottomed out in all 4 corners. When i start The car The compressor runs for about 1min and then shuts off and nothing has changed. Would love some ideas as to what it could be
Klampesta,

I have been having the same issue with my '03 e500 for the past 8 months. In my case the compressor would come on intermittently and only build 2-3 bar of pressure and then shut off without raising the car.

I figured out the problem today. There is a 40A blade fuse by the compressor relay in the front right electrical box. In this particular case the fuse would pass continuity with a volt ohm meter, but would apparently cut out when any amperage was induced by the compressor motor. Once I replaced the fuse the pump suddenly came on, built between 10-16 Bars in pressure and the car raised immediately.

So try replacing the FUSE!

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Klampesta,

I have been having the same issue with my '03 e500 for the past 8 months. In my case the compressor would come on intermittently and only build 2-3 bar of pressure and then shut off without raising the car.

I figured out the problem today. There is a 40A blade fuse by the compressor relay in the front right electrical box. In this particular case the fuse would pass continuity with a volt ohm meter, but would apparently cut out when any amperage was induced by the compressor motor. Once I replaced the fuse the pump suddenly came on, built between 10-16 Bars in pressure and the car raised immediately.

So try replacing the FUSE!

Good luck!
Thx man, sure will try that 🤟
 

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E320/E250 Bluetec Ford F350 6.7l
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You need at least $150 scanner to read the system pressure.
I had problem with air suspension when $150 scanners did not exist yet, so I simply add a Tee to 4mm tubing and add new tubing to run it inside the cabin with gauge on the end.
Later on I used the connector to hook up shop compressor for troubleshooting.
When I finally fixed tricky leak, my gauge would read 120 psi before morning start.
The car computer has a program that will run compressor for about a minute, than give it few minutes cool off and then run it again.
When 2 or 3 attempts will not lift the car, the cluster warning will come.
Driving with a leak not only wears the compressor, but also floods whole system with water.
System is design to regenerate drier by returning air. When there is no return air, water has only 1 way to go.
 

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You need at least $150 scanner to read the system pressure.
I had problem with air suspension when $150 scanners did not exist yet, so I simply add a Tee to 4mm tubing and add new tubing to run it inside the cabin with gauge on the end.
Later on I used the connector to hook up shop compressor for troubleshooting.
When I finally fixed tricky leak, my gauge would read 120 psi before morning start.
The car computer has a program that will run compressor for about a minute, than give it few minutes cool off and then run it again.
When 2 or 3 attempts will not lift the car, the cluster warning will come.
Driving with a leak not only wears the compressor, but also floods whole system with water.
System is design to regenerate drier by returning air. When there is no return air, water has only 1 way to go.
Update, just took the lines going into the struts out, on the left side the stuff that the Bolt holds into was fine, however on the right side They where completly worn down?? The shop said that They had fixed this... So thinking that that might be part of my problem, can i just use the same tool you use to fix this same issue on bolts etc? Or do i need a new tool
 
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