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All,

New poster here. Great site. Replacing both engine mounts and transmission mount on w211. Looking for torque specs for bolts on each mount. Also, any advice on this project prior to jumping in?

Thanks you for the feedback.

B
 

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Engine mount update

Well, I just replaced the left side engine mount. And it was very easy. Right side, having a little trouble and cannot access the top side of the right engine mount. It appears the entire air filter box needs to be removed, but couldn't figure out how to remove it. Is removing the entire air filter box the correct way to access the top bolt on the right side engine mount?
 

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Found this on another post.
The white is the rubber dust cover. It tends to fade after a while. It's not a hard job to do but it's a little difficult particularly on the passenger side. There is no room to work and you have to remove the 4 bolts which fasten the bracket to the engine and remove and reinstall both the mount and the bracket as one assembly. It does make a big difference in terms of vibration and noise, I changed mine (all 3) at around 130K. Based on the fresh air intake hose, the engine now sits about 3/4" (19 mm) higher than it did before I replaced the mounts. I used to get this strange "thump" when the transmission shifted down and replacing the mounts solved that problem also.
 

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Hangit,

It sounds like you might have handled it, but for the right mount on the CDI, you do not need to remove any of the 4 bolts on the arm. Leave that be (if I recall one of those 4 bolts is not fun!). I bought a swivel head ratchet box wrench at Lowes (16mm) to access the mount bolt from the bottom. No Air box removal required either. By locking another box wrench on the open end of the flex combo wrench, you can get a lot of leverage. This is done from the fore side, not the aft side below the mount. Once I figured this out, I'm sold this is the only way to tackle this one. See pic.
 

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16mm flex head racheting wrench

I went to go do this job the other day, and I found out after visiting 2 Lowes, 2 Home Depots, and calling a Harbor Freight, that the 16mm flex head racheting wrench is actually a hard tool to find.

At home depot you can get any size except 16mm (wtf?). I checked Lowes website online and it isn't available on there anymore either.

I'm just saying this so that if you want to do this job, go ahead and order one on amazon. This is the one I ordered earlier today with one day shipping. It'll come in tomorrow.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F51252E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

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Yikes. I hate it when we go backwards. I agree with you, it looks like Lowes is phasing these out in metric and SAE. I could not find the 5/8 wrench either.

Go for the Amazon wrench, besides it's cheaper! I could not dream of doing this job without this tool. Post your experience!
 

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I purchased the 18 inch long gear wrench. Unless you are really clever- the top passenger side- hard to torque. Make it good and wrench tight. Did driver's side with an offset. All the torques are in the manual. ?55 n-m and 35 n-m stick in my mind.

Use only Lemforder or MB engine mounts. The rear trans mount, I purchased coreteco b/c it wasn't made in China. It was not the same extrusion shape as the old one... I would go ahead and use a discount dealership for it- not worth skimping on $20.

Don't have the torques handy- sounds like you need to purchase a manual. The WIS copies are available on ebay for ~$10-15.

I did this in December or Jan. Makes a huge difference and is super easy.
I think this is about a skill level ~ 1 or 2 on a scale of 5.
 

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You should note here too. That Lemforder catalog has less variations than Mercedes for the cars. I think it's one of the M117's MB had 2 dozen different mounts. Lemforder had 3. So it gets confusing ordering them. Make sure you get ones for the OM648 and not just "CDI". The OM642 is a CDI also.
 

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OMG. I love Lemfroeder parts, but if you try to correlate their part numbers with those of MB, you will not be clear that you have the right parts. (but they might be right enough)
 

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Found this on another post.
The white is the rubber dust cover. It tends to fade after a while. It's not a hard job to do but it's a little difficult particularly on the passenger side. There is no room to work and you have to remove the 4 bolts which fasten the bracket to the engine and remove and reinstall both the mount and the bracket as one assembly. It does make a big difference in terms of vibration and noise, I changed mine (all 3) at around 130K. Based on the fresh air intake hose, the engine now sits about 3/4" (19 mm) higher than it did before I replaced the mounts. I used to get this strange "thump" when the transmission shifted down and replacing the mounts solved that problem also.
Did you actually do it yourself replace the engine mount on the right side, there is the CAT, guess its a CAT, bolted to the turbo, which is preventing removing the mount. How did you handle it? The WIS is a joke for the 648 engine and year.
 

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Yes I replaced both mounts myself as a have a lot of posters. See my post #6 earlier in this thread. I did not remove the 4 bolt bracket. No need to. I reference a 16MM flex head box ratchet that made it possible. If you cannot find the 16MM, try a 5/8.
 

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Yikes. I hate it when we go backwards. I agree with you, it looks like Lowes is phasing these out in metric and SAE. I could not find the 5/8 wrench either.

Go for the Amazon wrench, besides it's cheaper! I could not dream of doing this job without this tool. Post your experience!

I did the job but removed the 2 stud hanger clip on the exhaust pipe just aft of the CAT/exhaust clamp and it did remove stress from the hanger because the holes were not aligned after I jacked up the engine.


I found the Gearwrench (9710) 5/8" by itself at Menards which is a chain hardware store in the midwest.

5/8" = .0625, 16mm = .063" so there is no wrench slop and having a flex head wrench makes this job easy peasy! This wrench (9710) is not a stubby flex which I believe would not have been long enough to crack the bolt.

In another thread there was mention of a heat shield for the right side (211-241-0834) a drawing of this part looks like it might attach to the motor mount/bracket upper bolt. Both of my new OEM MB mounts included white rubber shields feels like maybe silicon rubber. My original left side did not have the rubber cover, now it does.

Did you have this metal heat shield?
 

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2003 e320 cdi MOTOR MOUNTS

Hi guys.
I am a USAF major stationed in Venezuela. We have a 2003 MB E320 CDI for personal use but it needs some attention. Both the motor mounts are damaged as well as the tranny support. I have been unable to get precise info for the parts because apparently diesel cars receive little mention in Amazon, Ebay, etc.
I am needing the exact part numbers for the motor supports and the transmission support.
Also, are they interchangeable with other models because we have some supports here a the embassy from prior cars, new in the box, but none apply to diesel models that we can ascertain. In essence, I am asking if there are easier to find supports for this car than the ones specially made for it?
Thanks in advance for any help provided!
 

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2003 MB E320 CDI I am asking if there are easier to find supports for this car than the ones specially made for it?
Current OEM front left 2112400417, right 2112403017; rear 2122400318.

supports here a the embassy from prior cars, new in the box
OEM compatible part #s (before replaced to current part #s) front left 2112401617, right 2032402117; rear 2202400118.

In essence, I am asking if there are easier to find supports for this car than the ones specially made for it?
Shop current OEM part #s for aftermarket availability.
 

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Please avoid part for this other than lemforder. It's been noted before the confusion between Lemforder MB #s and what the dealership lists. Well, the aftermarket may use a part in more applications than MB originally suggested. Most of the other brands have been proven unreliable and or omit the silicone filling.

On M117 motors, I think MB listed 17 different mounts and Lemforder boiled it down to 3 or maybe it was 5.

Yes 5/8 or 16mm are both good.
 

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Please avoid part for this other than lemforder....

...Most of the other brands have been proven unreliable and or omit the silicone filling.
I’m having a couple different hums and vibrations and I’m wondering if the PO of my car used lower quality mounts (9 months/ 3k miles ago) could they explain the vibrations?
When I changed out the flex disks & carrier bearing, I inspected the transmission mount and it looked fine. It didn’t have any markings on it so I don’t know what brand it is. The white covers on the motor mounts don’t look new even though the mounts only have 3k miles on them. Makes me think they used cheap mounts that didn’t come with the white covers.
I know everyone on the forum says to buy quality mounts but I haven’t found a post where someone buys a cheap mount and gets vibrations that are then immediately solved by quality mounts. Does that happen?
 
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