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Hi, Folks.

A few issues seem to come up again and again regarding wheels and I thought it might be useful to put together some information in a single thread; I included the word breathing in the thread title since it should have a life of it’s own and grow accordingly over time.

But first, a caveat: some of the information below has been gathered from other sources and some is the result of my direct knowledge and experience; I accept no responsibility for either. ;) That said, my goal here is to provide information that is as accurate and complete as we can make it -- over time. So if you see something that’s factually incorrect, feel free to add to the thread (or PM me or another W210 mod) and that way the initial information can be edited, thus saving people from reading through the entire thread in the future to correct a typo, etc. (However, if it’s something with which you simply disagree, please be helpful and post in this thread along with a notation that it is just your opinion.)

Let’s start with some basics. All W210 models use the “standard” MB lug pattern: 5x112 (5 lug bolts evenly spaced 112mm apart). The lug bolt used by all US W210 models has a ball seat mounting that is R12 and has a 12mm shaft with a 1.5 thread pitch that is 61mm in overall length (commonly referred to as a “R12-12Mx1.5x61mm” or similar nomenclature). That said, I have heard stories from folks - who swear their cars are stock - to the effect that their bolts are different, so take that with a grain of salt. Also, the older W210s had lug bolts that were much longer (85mm?) as they had a shaft that extended above the ball seat to put the head of the bolt out nearly flush with the wheel surface; however, this did not change the functional length of the bolt and the newer style can replace the older.

Contrast this with aftermarket wheels; many manufacturers opt for a conical (or cone) seat, so if you’re buying aftermarket wheels, be sure to source with them (preferably from your seller!) the proper lug bolts. I can’t stress this fact strongly enough: Do not assume that lug bolts are interchangeable; the use of lug bolts that do not properly match the chassis as well as the chosen wheel may (and likely will) result in damage to the wheels, the hub, the brakes - and quite possibly you and others.

There are many potential issues with respect to wheels and, particularly, wheel interchangeability from other MB models. However, two predominate: lug bolts and "offset".

Lug Bolts

As noted, the W210 uses a 12M bolt with the 12R ball seat. However, newer Benz models (including the 211, a popular rim choice for W210 owners) use a 14M lug bolt with an R14 ball seat. Obviously, you cannot thread a 14M bolt into a 12M hole; however, you cannot properly use the 12M, 12R bolts in a wheel designed for R14 bolts. Raymond provided a picture that approximates what happens when a R12 ball seat is mated to an R14 wheel:

This unsafe issue can be resolved by sourcing custom lug bolts that have an R14 ball seat and a 12M bolt. In my experience a non-AMG W211 wheel will fit on a W210 chassis with a bolt that is R14x12Mx1.5x26mm. These can be obtained from a few sources; one is RadUSA Direct's Home Page.

Offset

As noted, the other significant issue is offset. Offset is a variable that refers to the difference between the true centerline of the wheel and the mounting surface on the hub. Referring to the diagram below, the chart on the left shows stock wheel sizes and offsets for the W210 chassis in US-spec. On the right is a diagram depicting offset measurement. Zero or “no” offset means that the mounting surface is even with the centerline of the wheel. Positive offset occurs when the mounting surface is closer to the front side (the outside) of the wheel. Conversely, negative offset results when the mounting surface is closer to the back side (the inside) of the wheel. If you think of a deeply-dished wheel, this would have a significant amount of negative offset.

A couple of general points may be made. First, given the same wheel width, as you increase positive offset (or decrease negative offset) you effectively move more of the tire and wheel inside towards the suspension components. Second, while small changes in offset are acceptable, using an offset that varies significantly from the manufacturer’s specifications can result in unintended effects on handling as well as improper bearing loads.





Assuming you want to replace your stock wheels (or at least those currently on your car) with different ones, it’s important to determine the effect of the change in offset. As an example, my W211 wheels (17x7-1/2J ET 38) with their stock 245/45-17 tires rubbed in the front at ¾ lock and beyond. With a different offset, say ET34, they would not have rubbed. However, replacing those tires with 235/45-17 was the right answer anyway as that is the correct size for the W210 chassis as it maintains the proper OD for the tire.

Accordingly, as you begin your quest for replacement wheels, start with your current wheel size (diameter, width and offset) and your proposed wheel size (same dimensions from the new wheel) and plug those numbers into an offset calculator. Caveat: Don’t simply rely on a chart or graph of wheel dimensions. The best suggestion here is to dismount one each of your front and rear wheels and read the dimensions off of the wheel: they should be stamped or cast right on the inside of them. This does a few things (beyond assuring that you have the correct dimensions). If you have a staggered wheel setup, you won’t accidentally source the wrong wheels. Also, while you’re in there it permits you to inspect the brakes (how many pins do I have on the rear brakes?) and suspension (spring perches, leaky shocks, worn sway bar links, etc.).

So once you have the dimensions for your current wheels and the ones you are considering, plug them into an offset calculator. There are several on the web, one good one is Mark Sink’s at: Wheel Offset Calculator.

I hope that helps.

As always, take care and enjoy the ride!
Greg
 

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Also

1010tires.com Tire & Wheel Tech
and don't forget to add the affect larger plus size wheels will have on braking,camber,and alignment if the suspension is lowered in order to not have those big ole 22's :eek:looking silly:rolleyes:
nice bunch of work,Greg:thumbsup:
 

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Not sure this is the right thread for the information but does anyone have the definitive answer to what various size rims and tires will fit on the W210 without rubbing or effecting the speedometer etc.?
 

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Not sure this is the right thread for the information but does anyone have the definitive answer to what various size rims and tires will fit on the W210 without rubbing or effecting the speedometer etc.?
Hi, LakePlay. I'll answer your question but in the future if you don't see something that applies to your question it's always best to start a new thread rather than take a chance on hijacking a thread.

There is no such thing as a complete, definitive list for all possible wheel and tire combos in part because that information changes as new sizes are introduced and because certain other things can affect that, such as spacers and lug bolts. It also can't take into effect other changes an owner might have made, such as lowering. There is some general information in the HELP stickies at the top of this forum.

That said, speedo effect is controlled by one thing and that is the outer diameter (OD) on a tire -- and that holds true regardless of the wheel size or other tire dimensions. You can use one of the online tire size calculators such as the one at 1010tires.com or miatanet.garage/tirecalc.html to show you what you need to do with width and profile in order to maintain the proper OD as you vary wheel diameter for example.

What wheels and tires will fit is dependent upon three factors, all of which interrelate: width, diameter and offset. For example as you go bigger and wider -- even if you stay with the correct OD -- offset becomes absolutely critical.

Bottom line here is that unless you're willing to do lots of homework and trial and error, the single best piece of advice I can give you is to purchase your wheels and tires from a reputable seller that will guarantee fitment, in the sense that they provide you the assurance you need that they will fit and if they don't, then the seller will make it right, even if that means giving you a complete refund. That will likely cost you more in dollars than if you find some cheapo import things on e-bay, but it is less than the satisfaction of having a quality wheel that fits without having to later purchase spacers, roll the fender, etc. -- and figuring in the effective cost of your time and frustration.

Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg
 

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Mercedes OE W210 (Non-AMG) Wheels/Tire Information

Mercedes OE W210 (Non-AMG) Wheels/Tire Information

Recently there were questions about using 15" wheels with snow tires on W210. Since many of us living in the USA do not see much of what wheels/tires Mercedes used on the W210 outside the USA, I thought I'd look into it. It turns out Mercedes used 15", 16" an 17" wheels on the non-AMG W210s. Many of the Mercedes econoboxes :)D) sold in some countries use 15" wheels.

So here is a compilation of whatever I can find and put my hands on. Since this is not an exhaustive list so I am sure there are omissions and mistakes. Thank you in advance for your corrections so I can update my file.

Keep in mind that this is only for Mercedes OE wheels and AMG wheels are not included.

Some styles of wheels are available in all 15", 16" and 17" sizes while others may be available for only one or two sizes.

Some wheels are standard equipment that came with the cars and others are accessories but all are Mercedes OE wheels.

You can click on each picture to get a slightly larger one.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Wow. I would not have thought a 15" wheel would clear the calipers. Thanks for the info.
 

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Wow. I would not have thought a 15" wheel would clear the calipers. Thanks for the info.
Had the same toughs. At first my conclusion was that steel rims have thinner material, so 15" steel rim might have the same inside diameter what 16" aluminum.
But than from those miniature pictures looks like some 15" are aluminum as well.
Then we don't know if they use the same dia rotors and calipers we do.
I just ordered rotors from amazon using their system and they come smaller than on the car.
Maybe W210 is different countries use the smaller rotors afterall?
 

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Sir K, yes these will be very model dependent.

Many of the lower end W210s use 288 mm front rotors and 15" wheels.

Then the non-turbo E300D (210.020) uses 288 mm front rotors but 15" wheels in Europe and 16" wheels in the USA for the 1996 and 1997 models. So for these models, the 15" wheels would clear the calipers.

Your turbo E300TD (210.025), however, uses 300 mm front rotors as many E320 gasoline models. It is not certain if the 15" wheels would clear the calipers until someone confirms it.

210.020 (E300D)
European Models come with 15" wheels and 288 mm front rotors (210 421 24 12, or 210 421 07 12, or 203 421 03 12)

USA models come with 16" wheels and also 288 mm front rotors (210 421 24 12, or 210 421 07 12, or 203 421 03 12)

The turbo models 210.025 (E300TD) use 300 mm front rotors (210 421 22 12), the same as almost all E320 models.
 

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15'' rims don't fit.

i tried to put 15'' rims on my '98 E320 and much to my dispare... they did not fit over the caliper. hope this helps. i know that its a little late, but like i like to say.. better late than never!:thumbsup:
 

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I included the word breathing in the thread title since it should have a life of its own and grow accordingly over time.
Wanted to add for this reference thread that lug nut torque depends on the lug nut. The DVD states three stock lug nuts, A, B, and C type. Type A has a stainless steal cap and should be 150 Nm, while B and C should be 110 Nm.
 

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Discussion Starter #15

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nice find! one area to second guess would be the bolt length, as that would
differ depending on the cross section of the wheel at the bolt hole. we've
learned that this will vary depending on actual wheel model so the 1.5 shouldn't
be relied on as a de facto length.
 

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nice find! one area to second guess would be the bolt length, as that would
differ depending on the cross section of the wheel at the bolt hole. we've
learned that this will vary depending on actual wheel model so the 1.5 shouldn't
be relied on as a de facto length.
I thought the 1.5 was the thread pitch.
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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I have recently been looking at replacement rims for use in winter on our 98 W210. I found these two sites very useful:

For rim/tire comparisons:
Custom rims, wheel tire packages for your ride - RIMSnTIRES.com

Summary of rims used (Worldwide, so not always applicable to NA)
Mercedes-Benz Fitting Chart and Wheel Fitment Guide | Alloy Wheels Direct

I purchased a used set of rims off a W203. These are 7x7.5 ET37. Same size was used on some W210s. These two links summarize rims and tires for w203 and w210:
W203:http://www.wheel-fitment.com/car/Mercedes/C-Klasse W203 (2000 - 2007)/
W210:http://www.wheel-fitment.com/car/Mercedes/E-Klasse W210 (1995 - 2002)/

The rims came with 225/45R17 winter tires.

I have yet to install the new rims, but they look like they should work well.
Pic of C230 17" rim:
 

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If anyone needs some OE wheels and (updated) lugbolts with completed center caps and is willing to come here to pick them up :), I have a couple sets of W210 wheels. One set is pre-facelift and another is post-facelift. (10 vs 11 spokes).

I actually have a couple 15" sets as well and they fit the W124's. One set is made by Loriser. Someday I will advertise them somewhere.

Still have both W210s but have AWD winter car so am not switching all these summer/winter wheels/tires now for the W210s. Just have too many sets.
 
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