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Discussion Starter #1
I need your help guys.
So for the past year ive been having all kinds of electrical problems with my 1998 w210.

First my IR key died at the same time my starter relay broke during the summer.
One winter day my instrument cluster was not working, thankfully only for a day and that was months ago.
Then my front windows and mirrors would work some days and not work most of the days.
Then there were 2 seperate days the central locking with the remote key would not work(this is with the new chrome key and the red light on the key would blink so its not the keys fault, also my metal key is broken so the remote is the only way i can get in) ,the first time the remote didnt work i would try to unlock the car many times during the day with no luck, i was going to go and pry the doors open the next day,but the next day it opened with the remote no problem, the second time it happened was about a month later, same thing, couldnt open the car for a whole day but the next day it would open with no problems.
Next thing that happened was i started driving one day and the throttle was stuck, i lift my foot off the pedal and the car was gaining speed, so i turned off and on the engine and it was okay,never happened to me again.But at that same time i noticed that my abs and esp lights went on.
Fast forward to now, yesterday i disconnected rear right window motor, which seems to have fixed my front windows and mirrors, ive read somewhere that the rear door module shorting out other modules on the canbus could also be the reason my central locking was acting up, lets hope.
Today i changed the brake light switch,and the abs and esp lights were gone, my asr button was also working, yay i tought. About an hour later i was going to go for a drive, this time while starting the car i noticed that the interior lights were dimm and blinking, after car started back to normal, i drove off and a couple of seconds later my abs and esp lights turned back on again, damn. I tried to restart the car with my foot on the brake pedal to see if the lights would turn off, but when i turned the key to position 0 the engine kept running, WHAT? The lights also stayed on, tried reinserting the key and turning off and on a couple of times and when i lifted my foot off the brake pedal the engine turned off. Tried to turn the engine off and on a couple of times and now it worked like it should, except for the abs and esp lights of course.
Im thinking that i need to change my battery asap, and see if that helps. Whats your opinion guys? Thank you and sorry for the long post.
 

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1998 E320 base sedan @ 160kmiles
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6,707 Posts
I would start with the battery, and check the charging system (alternator, power and ground wiring).

If these do not solve your problem, I would look into CANbus issues. If you turn the key to position 0, and the engine is still running, it would indicate a CANBus or EIS (ignition switch) issue (after making sure that it is not a power and grounding issue).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So now the engine sometimes doesnt turn off if i hold the brake pedal, as soon as i release it, the engine stops, really weird. I put a battery meter in my lighter socket, the voltages seem normal. About 12.5v while key in 2nd position, 11v when turning the engine, 14v when running with the ac and radio off, 13,6v with ac and radio on while running. Any ideas whats with the engine not turning off?
 

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2002 Mercedes ML320, Mercedes 190E 2.3L (sold), 2001 Mercedes c320(gone)
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There's definitely some electrical issue, for the bas/esp errors, those happen even with a poor battery connection but coupled with the other symptoms, probably there's a short somewhere or open circuit somewhere in the CAN so some messages don't get to the control units that need them. You will greatly benefit from a scan using the SDS, this will point you in the right direction.

Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
 

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1998 E320 base sedan @ 160kmiles
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So now the engine sometimes doesnt turn off if i hold the brake pedal, as soon as i release it, the engine stops, really weird. I put a battery meter in my lighter socket, the voltages seem normal. About 12.5v while key in 2nd position, 11v when turning the engine, 14v when running with the ac and radio off, 13,6v with ac and radio on while running. Any ideas whats with the engine not turning off?
You need to explain it in more detail.
The car starts and runs normally. You stop with the gear in Park (if auto). What happens, with the brake pedal is NOT pressed you turn the key to position 1, then to position 0 ? Does the engine stop ? What happens you repeat the same with the brake pedal depressed, and when you release the brake pedal?

The engine will run as long as the ECU is powered. When you turn the key to position 1/0, the power to the ECU and the other modules should be cut off, and the engine should stop running. I do not know what the relationship is with the brake pedal switch, but it appears that the circuit 15 power (power on position 2) is still kept on. This is controlled by the EIS. Has there been any modifications done on the car ? like after-market radio, alarm system, cam, etc ?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You need to explain it in more detail.
The car starts and runs normally. You stop with the gear in Park (if auto). What happens, with the brake pedal is NOT pressed you turn the key to position 1, then to position 0 ? Does the engine stop ? What happens you repeat the same with the brake pedal depressed, and when you release the brake pedal?

The engine will run as long as the ECU is powered. When you turn the key to position 1/0, the power to the ECU and the other modules should be cut off, and the engine should stop running. I do not know what the relationship is with the brake pedal switch, but it appears that the circuit 15 power (power on position 2) is still kept on. This is controlled by the EIS. Has there been any modifications done on the car ? like after-market radio, alarm system, cam, etc ?
The car is a manual, if i press the brake pedal and turn the ignition off car will keep running until i release the brake pedal, then it will stop.
If i dont keep my foot on the brake and turn the ignition off the engine stops normally.
Only modification is an aftermarket radio, but this problem has only occured after changing the brake light switch.
 

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1998 E320 base sedan @ 160kmiles
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I would remove and install the old brake switch if you still have it. After the switch change, if you still had the abs/ esp lights, this means that the switch was not the problem.
The brake lights should not work with the key out. If they do, that means the Illumination Control Module (ICM, the module behind the headlight switch) still thinks that the key is in position 2. The contacts of the brake switch go to the ICM, and the Electronic Traction Module (ETC, which has the ESP function in your case).

Somewhat some stray current is keeping the ECU powered up. If the ECU is not powered, the engine will have no fuel injection, no spark. It could be the stuck polarity reversal relay in the K40 module, or some stray current that ends up in the K40 through the brake switch.
 
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