W210 NO START AFTER ABS, BAS, ESP LIGHTS
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Failed to mention, no crank.
Remove the two pin blower connector on the fuse module designated as G2. This connector is at the right top corner, nears the orange 40 amp fuse and the black starter relay. Replace the fuse. and start the car. The fuse powers the blower at the same time the TCM module.
10a in ecu box, right side of engine compartment. 4th cavity from left or relay
It is fuse 3 that powers the Transmission Control Unit, the gear shifter, steering angle sensor, and the blower fan motor. a shorted fan motor blows the fuse when you turn the key to position 2. But with the blower wire removed, you remove the short and the engine should start. You say it does not and that is strange.
With the blower connector removed
1) Make sure before you crank the shifter is in P or N (from the instrument cluster).
2) Check the voltage on the fuse (both sides using the tabs on it (with respect to chassis ground when the key is in position 2. It should read 12+ V. Then have someone try to crank the engine. It should still read 12V (should not dip).
It is possible that the blower fan short has caused some track / component damage inside the fuse / relay module. In this case, needs to be replaced.
With the blower connector removed
1) Make sure before you crank the shifter is in P or N (from the instrument cluster).
2) Check the voltage on the fuse (both sides using the tabs on it (with respect to chassis ground when the key is in position 2. It should read 12+ V. Then have someone try to crank the engine. It should still read 12V (should not dip).
It is possible that the blower fan short has caused some track / component damage inside the fuse / relay module. In this case, needs to be replaced.
View attachment 2643277
Sorry, new to adding pics. It’s the open cavity. Now with the fan plugged in and a good fuse the engine will only crank a half revolution and not start.
Ensured shifter is in Park. 12.6v on both sides of fuse but drops to 11.4v and 9.6v during 2 attempts at cranking engine. Acts like a low battery but battery is 4 months old and tests at 12.6v.
Sorry, I don’t understand the link question.
Correct, fuse does not blow with fan plugged in and engine cranked. Engine only cranks for a spilt second, like the battery voltage is low.
I have a Foxwell nt530 with the 16 pin connector that reads live sensor data.
"View attachment 2643277 ". This was in your previous post, and I expected to see a picture, but when I click on it, it takes me the "general mercedes" forum.
With the key in position 2, read the live data from the ECU regarding the "start enable= Y/N", " drive authorization = Y/N", shift lever switch = P/N.
It may be an issue with start enable, which is supposed to be Yes, and it is derived from the drive authorization, transmission start enable signal, and the gear status (should be in Park or Neutral).
With the key in position 2, read the live data from the ECU regarding the "start enable= Y/N", " drive authorization = Y/N", shift lever switch = P/N.
It may be an issue with start enable, which is supposed to be Yes, and it is derived from the drive authorization, transmission start enable signal, and the gear status (should be in Park or Neutral).
Picture was of the fuse removed to confirm location.
Will read the data when the rain stops.
Thanks for all your help!
Start enable=Y
Shift lever position=P/N
Drive Authorization is a category so I added photos of all values listed under “Drive Authorization” category (last 2 pictures)
Battery voltage still at 12.5
Attachments
OK, It appears that all the signals to start the car is there.
Have you scanned ALL the modules with your scanner? Are there any codes from any other modules like the traction system (ESP/BAS/ABS) ?
I recall a similar case you yours and the suspect and solution was the K40 relay module (as I mentioned before). When the blower fan goes bad, it seems to cause some damage on the components / tracks. If you have a spare one, you could replace it and see if it solves the problem. Normally I recommend replacing a component only after it is confirmed that it is faulty, but the verification would require some special equipment like a scope that you do probably do not have.
ABS, ESP, BAS lights on, car tanked, problem resolved
Have you scanned ALL the modules with your scanner? Are there any codes from any other modules like the traction system (ESP/BAS/ABS) ?
I recall a similar case you yours and the suspect and solution was the K40 relay module (as I mentioned before). When the blower fan goes bad, it seems to cause some damage on the components / tracks. If you have a spare one, you could replace it and see if it solves the problem. Normally I recommend replacing a component only after it is confirmed that it is faulty, but the verification would require some special equipment like a scope that you do probably do not have.
ABS, ESP, BAS lights on, car tanked, problem resolved
1998 MB E300TD, 1997 MB E36 AMG, 2001 MB E55 AMG. 2011 BMW 335d
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8,713 Posts
Use that scanner and look in the EIS drive authorization, see what the start enable there says.
EIS is the one that has final say on starting engine... ECU may say start enable = YES, but if EIS says no, that's not happening.
But since you have half a crank, doubtful that's the case... But check anyway.
Use 27mm socket on crank bolt and turn over engine by hand, make sure it's not seized and turns over smoothly. If it does, rules out seized engine.
EIS is the one that has final say on starting engine... ECU may say start enable = YES, but if EIS says no, that's not happening.
But since you have half a crank, doubtful that's the case... But check anyway.
Use 27mm socket on crank bolt and turn over engine by hand, make sure it's not seized and turns over smoothly. If it does, rules out seized engine.
Yeah, but I have a feeling that he does not have the 38 pin adapter cable specific for the NT520/530 though.
1998 MB E300TD, 1997 MB E36 AMG, 2001 MB E55 AMG. 2011 BMW 335d
Joined
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8,713 Posts
Phooey, that'll put a drag into it, lol. We could do without, but it's a guess. I think you're on the right track of it being a bad K40.... He says it does crank. If DAS was set to no, it wouldn't even do that.
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