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Discussion Starter #41 (Edited)
I did lubricate O-rings with PAG46 oil.
BTW I am using the O rings from the Santec kit of O-rings. Do these work OK or should I buy the Mercedes ones ?

Matt, I even bought the UV Dye, but since I was unable to complete the charge to about 900g, I did not think I could get any UV dye in there. I am not sure how much refrigerant is left in the system, but I plan to just add some dye(if I can) and see if I can trace the leak before I start the whole process again.

I torqued all joints without a torque wrench except the compressor hoses which I torques to 20 Nm.( I think)
 

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1998 E320 base sedan @ 160kmiles
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If you get a refrigerant with dye (not containing sealer) can, please put it as the first can, not the last, to make sure enough of the dye can be in the system. Also clear any fault codes, and set P2 to 152 prior to charging, so that the compressor will turn on by itself (hopefully). As part of the charging process, also monitor the item 7 to make sure it reflects the plausible pressure change.
 

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I did lubricate O-rings with PAG46 oil.
BTW I am using the O rings from the Santec kit of O-rings. Do these work OK or should I buy the Mercedes ones ?
Santec O-rings are fine. I never had any problem with them.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
I was able to use a torque wrench on the compressor hose fittings. Its difficult to get the torque wrench on most of the other fittings. Also, I do not have open wrenches of the size needed for the pressure switch and one of the large hex fitting on the condenser - its definitely larger that 24 mm.
I felt that all of the fittings were torqued adequately, except the expansion valve. I did my best on the 10 mm nut and the screws. The screw heads are 3 mm hex key ? Those small screws are a little difficult as you have to be at the side of the engine, while trying to work on them; there is also very little room. Because I was not sure of the key needed on the bolts, I think I may have damaged one of them slightly, but should be able to work on it with the right size key. Although, I do not have evidence yet, I suspect that the pipes going into the expansion valve may not be adequately secured by the clamp and 10 mm nut. Anyway, hate to get to the expansion valve again, but have no choice but to try at the weekend.
Would a professional do a pressure test (with Nitrogen) rather than the vacuum test to be sure things are well sealed ?
 

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1998 E320 base sedan @ 160kmiles
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I am sure they have all sorts of gizmos to detect a leak. One of the newest ones is the ultrasonic detector. As the refrigerant escapes from the leak, it will create a sound which can be detected by the device. Of course there are UV dye methods (messy), nitro fill, or refrigerant sniffers.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Ok, I have found the leak at the expansion valve. However, I have also rounded off the head of one of the small bolts on the valve. Its the one that needs a 3 mm key. How can I get that bolt out ?
 

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Ok, I have found the leak at the expansion valve. However, I have also rounded off the head of one of the small bolts on the valve. Its the one that needs a 3 mm key. How can I get that bolt out ?
Drill head off with 5 mm drill bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Not much space to get a drill in there. Do I need a special drill ?
 

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Not much space to get a drill in there. Do I need a special drill ?
This is terrible setup with those flimsy screws that hold expansion valve.

You will need stubby 90 degree drill, short 5 mm drill bit, set of rubber plugs and of course new screws.

Where is the leak? Between expansion valve and evaporator pipes or pipes leading to expansion valve? Have you used genuine MB o-rings?

Wife just called dinner time. Life is good.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Thanks you for taking the time to reply. I am not exactly sure of the leak location, buy I think its between the valve and the evaporator, hence the effort to remove the expansion valve. The O rings I used are from the SanTec kit.
Would a mechanic extract the screw for a fee ? I have not seen anyone advertise. I just went to Home Depot for the drill etc. the drill is about %80, the charger is $169 and the battery is about $79. Kind of expensive for most likely a single use !
 

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Discussion Starter #51
These are all the tools that I can get locally.
2622299
Unfortunately, nothing seems quite right. The Drill with the hex fitting is either too long or too thin, The standard drills from century seem right but need a chuck which I do not have room for. The screw extractors need bolt to be drilled.
 

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These are all the tools that I can get locally. Unfortunately, nothing seems quite right. The Drill with the hex fitting is either too long or too thin, The standard drills from century seem right but need a chuck which I do not have room for. The screw extractors need bolt to be drilled.
I took a look at that just now.

Unless you take your car to a dentist.
There is just not enough room between bulkhead and expansion valve to get to it. You need to approach it from engine compartment. There is rubber grommet in bulkhead that you have to remove to get 1/4 10 mm swivel socket to get nut that holds lines to expansion valve. Put straight piece of wire through it to the bolt that is stripped. Take a picture.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Matt,
The guy on the other thread said the following:
"Use a dremel with the reinforced cutting tool"
The only cutting tool I could see are circular. Is there a different cutting tool ?

Witek_M, I can remove the 10-- mm Nut holding the valve to the body fine.
I am not sure I follow:the "Put straight piece of wire through it to the bolt that is stripped. Take a picture". The bolt is recessed and rounded off.
I can get some very fine drills that have a hex shank, but the se are much smaller than the 5 mm recommended. -- more like 1/3 to 1/4 of that size.
 

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1998 E320 base sedan @ 160kmiles
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As far as I know he is talking about a circular cutting tool. You may have end up damaging the expansion valve body metal, and may need a new one they are not that expensive).
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Yes, that makes sense. Agreed, expansion valve is not expensive compared to the hassle of trying to find something that works.
 

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Witek_M, I can remove the 10-- mm Nut holding the valve to the body fine.
I am not sure I follow:the "Put straight piece of wire through it to the bolt that is stripped. Take a picture". The bolt is recessed and rounded off.
I can get some very fine drills that have a hex shank, but the se are much smaller than the 5 mm recommended. -- more like 1/3 to 1/4 of that size.
Piece of wire is to assess angle of the dangle. And length of drill bit needed. :)

Screws that hold valve to evaporator are M5 x 35. Using 5 mm drill (13/64) all you have to do is drill about 4-5 mm deep and head of the screw will fall off. If you get square to the bolt head drill will never touch expansion valve. You may have to drill hole though bulkhead to get right angle. There is heater hose in the way that may have to come off.

Here is link to screws. Standard allen size for M5 socket head screw is 4 mm. Get allen wrench as well.


Link to extra long drill bits.

 

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Discussion Starter #58 (Edited)
I have found a long 1/4 inch drill at Home Depot, is that too large ( 6.35 mm). Its still smaller than the hole diameter at the screw head.
 

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Discussion Starter #59 (Edited)
Witek_M,
I think your idea is a very good one. I can make a hole in the bulkhead and cover that with a cap later, if needed. Now I have the drill and the Dremil kit with the cutoff wheels. Either way, I can see a path to success. I asked the dealership for the price of the two screws and they quoted me $10.01 each and also told me that they are out of stock !
 
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