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2004 CLK 240 Coupe
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Discussion Starter #1
The time has come when many CLK owners could have problems with the electric motors that adjust the seats and the headrests positions, and need to know how to access these motor locations. There are 5 motors altogether for the left front seat group (M27) and the right front seat group (M28) as follows.

A) m1 is forward/back motor. m2 is rear raise/lower motor. m3 is front raise/lower motor.
Access to these is covered on WIS drawings for the seat cushion motors below.

B) m4 is headrest raise/lower motor. m5 is backrest motor.
Access to these is covered on WIS drawings for the seat backrest motors below.

Note: On both drawing sets the first action required is to remove the front seat.

I can understand that this is needed to access motors m1, m2, m3 located under the seat. However it does not make sense to me for access to m4 & m5. I could be wrong as I have not tried this task myself.
Regarding access to motors m1, m2, m3, moving the seat to access the seat bolts might be tricky if m1 is the faulty motor. It has been overcome, and there are posts in the W209 archives on how to do it.

A1) Remove/install front seat.
A2) Remove/install seat cushion adjustment motors m1, m2, m3.

B1) As A1. (but may not be necessary)
B2) Remove/install front seatback rear lining.
B3) Remove/install head restraint motor m4.
B4) Remove/install head restraint motor m4 and backrest motor m5
 

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Current CLK 320 Cabriolet Former 1986 E 300D and 1959 190SL
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Good Morning, this is great information since my driver's seat suddenly stopped moving in the fore/aft direction. All of the other adjustments work fine. Is there a quick check I can do to see if it is the motor or some other issue? Also, I am having difficulty reaching the pedals with my stubby legs. Is there some way to manually move the seat forward until I can get the motor checked out? Thanks, Dave
 

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Premium Member
2004 CLK 240 Coupe
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11,367 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
All of the other adjustments work fine. Is there a quick check I can do to see if it is the motor or some other issue?
It depends if you have a test meter and know how to use it to check electrical resistance.

You are interested in M27m1 - the driver’s seat fore-aft motor. Without removing the entire front seat, you could access and remove the connector under the seat that connects the individual seat motors to the Front seat adjustment control unit (N32/1).

Each seat motor has its own connector. M27m1 uses X54/3, pin 5 (black) pin 6 (white).

What I would do (not knowing the precise resistance of the motor) is to measure the resistance of the driver's side and compare it with the same motor on the passenger side. Obviously the resistance should be a few ohms, and not infinity.

Also, I am having difficulty reaching the pedals with my stubby legs. Is there some way to manually move the seat forward until I can get the motor checked out? Thanks, Dave
Sadly I don't think that you can force the seat to move with a 'dead' motor because of the gearing. Also with the seat right back, it is hard to access the rear bolt that secure the seat. It can be done, as other posters have shown here.

I have had a 'stuck' front seat once or twice and I have managed to fiddle with the memory switch and it cured itself. You might also try removing and replacing the fuse for N32/1. Fuse f27 - up to 05/2004, Fuse f29 from 06/2004. Both in Fusebox F34.
 

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Current CLK 320 Cabriolet Former 1986 E 300D and 1959 190SL
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Keyhole, thanks for your detailed response; although I hope I don't have to go to this extreme. Thanks to a tip from gorj, I was able to free the stuck motor by tapping on the motor while the seat was raised. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that this was only a fluke and the seat adjuster continues to work properly. Thanks again.
 

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Current CLK 320 Cabriolet Former 1986 E 300D and 1959 190SL
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Well, it has happened again! The seat is "stuck" but this time in a forward position. The Easy Exit function did not work this morning so I tried the max fore-aft trick to reset the seat adjustment. The seat went to the max forward position but stopped about one fourth of the way back and now refuses to budge. It is difficult to drive with the seat so far forward and I can barely get out of the car and then only by laying the seat back all the way down. All of the other seat adjustments work properly and I can hear a clicking sound when I press the fore/aft switch but the motor doesn't turn. Any ideas?
 

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Current CLK 320 Cabriolet Former 1986 E 300D and 1959 190SL
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Keyhole, you refer to posts in the 209 archives regarding ways to access the seat mounting bolts when the M1 motor is not functioning. This is the case with my seat and I would appreciate info on how to access the front bolts when the seat is stuck in a forward position. Thanks, Dave
 

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2004 CLK 240 Coupe
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11,367 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Had a quick look using the Search function without success. I do recall the thread (before 2015) where the guy had cut down a spanner to access the bolts. Just cannot recall the thread title, so a search is difficult.
Will try again later. Maybe rudeney can remember the thread?
 

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CURRENT: 2011 SL550, 2011 C300 FORMER: ML350, CLK550 Cabriolet, C240, ML320, 300TD
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I don't recall the thread, but since this is an e-Torx bolt, you might look into the Craftsman Max Axess tool set. I have one and it has really helped me get into some tight spaces.
 

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Current CLK 320 Cabriolet Former 1986 E 300D and 1959 190SL
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Keyhole and Rudeney, thanks to both of you for your input. I have clear access to the rear e-torx bolts but the seat is so far forward I can barely see, let alone reach, the front bolts. The seat upper track/frame is at least three inches in front of the lower track. Can you advise any other way to reach the front bolts? Dave
 

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Can you raise the front edge of the seat? Even if you can't see the bolts, can you feel them and get a socket on them?
 

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Current CLK 320 Cabriolet Former 1986 E 300D and 1959 190SL
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Well, with the steering wheel and seat raised to max, I can just squeeze my head upside down and look under the front of the seat. I can barely see the bolts but I don't think I can get a socket on them nor is there enough lateral space to operate a ratchet. Can the seat track be removed from underneath the car? I can feel bolts that appear to be in line with the seat runners but I'm not sure if they will allow me to get the seat out. What do you think?
 

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I don't think the bolts are accessible from underneath. I don't have a CLK to look at, but I looked at my SL and it's even worse because there is a storage box attached to the front of the seat, and the door sills are much deeper. However, I was able to get a Max Axess sock on the bolt even with the seat far forward. I could not see what I was doing, but I was able to get to it by feel. I can't promise that the CLK is the same, but lacking that box, and with a less tight fit of the seat in the chassis, i would think it's possible. Also, have you tried pulling fuses to reset the door and seat controllers?
 

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Current CLK 320 Cabriolet Former 1986 E 300D and 1959 190SL
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Wow! I didn't expect you to crawl around to try to access the front bolts that way but many thanks! I didn't know about pulling fuses to reset the controllers but which fuses should I pull? I found the seat fuse on the chart but I don't remember which fuse was for the door controller. I'll look again and try that. Thanks so much.
 

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it was no problem. I just stepped out into the garage and stuck my hand under the seat until I could feel the bolt.

The door controller is #21, the seat is either #27 or #29, depending on model year:

http://benzbits.com/w209/CabinFusePanel.pdf
 

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Current CLK 320 Cabriolet Former 1986 E 300D and 1959 190SL
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Rudeney, thanks for the info on the fuses. I pulled 2, 21 and 29 but no change. Also, I checked under the car on the driver's side and I did not find any exposed bolts or nuts so I guess the seat track cannot be removed that way. I'll try to get a eTorx socket under there to loosen the front bolts. Wish me luck!!
 

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Those Max Axess tools are a good investment. They fit SAE, metric and Torx, in tight spaces and with a hole in the wrench, even do double-duty as "deep well" sockets. Another kit I have (though it will be no help on this job) is this one by GearWrnech:

http://a.co/d/fCih2UM
 

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Current CLK 320 Cabriolet Former 1986 E 300D and 1959 190SL
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Rodney, I was just wondering...if I can't get to the etorx bolts to remove the seat and track assembly, is there a way to remove the seat frame from the track and possibly get to the motor that way? As you can tell, I"m getting desperate.

I meant to ask if there is a way to remove the seat cushion from the tubular frame, gaining access from above.
 

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I have remove the seat bottom on a C240 "manual" seat, but it was out of the car. I don't think it could be done with the seat in the car.
 
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