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CURRENT: 2011 SL550, 2011 C300 FORMER: ML350, CLK550 Cabriolet, C240, ML320, 300TD
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iCasoft i980 is supposed to pull codes form the soft top controller (a.k.a. roll bar module). I am not sure if it will actually test the switches or report live data, but it should report any error codes.
 

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CLK 2003 (early W209)
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31 Posts
The switch on the left cannot easily be tested from the outside since it is operated by the hook of the roof unless you have long, small flexible fingers :).

I also ended up by disassembling the front ...
 

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W209.4 Cabrio
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36 Posts
iCasoft i980 is supposed to pull codes form the soft top controller (a.k.a. roll bar module). I am not sure if it will actually test the switches or report live data, but it should report any error codes.
I know that now, Rodney, but still it is a useful tool. A bit of background:

I had the car at an indy to look at problems I have with a front window behaving erratically and the luggage tray needing to be held open using a prop. (I now know that the luggage tray needs 2 gas struts which I will get if I can fix the other problems).

Shortly after I got the car back, a dashboard warning in red "Release Roll Bars!" would come up when I turned on the ignition, even though I had pushed the headrests down. So, I got the iCarsoft i980 to see if it could help, and it as it showed that there was a solenoid or electrical problem with both the right and left hand side roll-bar solenoids.

As it was unlikely that both solenoids would fail simultaneously, I started to look for an electrical problem and eventually discovered that the fuse for the roll bar was missing! I suspect the indy had removed it for some reason and forgot to put it back, but this meant that the roll bars would not have operated in an upending situation - frightening!

Any way, I replaced the fuse in the fuseboard just inside the right hand side door, and the fault cleared. The iCarsoft enabled me to clear some other stored faults which I can't remember now, except there was mention of the Hall sensors with the window, so I think I need a new regulator which means a new motor (?).

So, it was a good investment but, as you say, it doesn't show me what is wrong with the roof. Dave asked for details of my roof problems so I'll answer that post separately to keep things neater.
 

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DD05cabrio,

What's exactly the problem with your roof?
Dave, I think it all started when I had my car at an indy to investigate the other problems described above. Anyway, I thought the roof wouldn't open because of the roll bar issue which took over 2 weeks to resolve, but after that problem was resolved, this is what happens when I try to open the roof:

Lock down luggage tray.
Open passenger window fully as it only moves 5 cms at a time.
Press and hold down Roof Open button.
Compartment lid rises to the Catch position and the soft top front disengages at the windshield.
Bow window rises to upright and the front engages with the windshield again.
No further movement of the roof.
The roof will then close ok on the button (except the window!) and the Roof Closed light comes up on the dash.

Because the pump keeps running until I release the button, I think this means I have a switch problem. I tested the 2 Bow window switches at the N52 plug and I think they are ok.

I had initially ruled out the front switches as being the problem because the Roof Closed light came up OK at the right time. But now I think that the Closed signal MAY be associated with the Catch switch S84/18 (right hand side) only and that the roof problem may be with the Latch switch S84/11 (left hand side), as it doesn't click when I press it in.

Does this make sense to you?
 

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Well, this is very disappointing!

I managed to get to the Latch switch S84/11 by popping up the upper part of the windshield trim and then removing the four screws holding up the lower part of the trim and the sun visors. The switch tests out fine on the multimeter (to explain, I measured resistance across the 2 terminals of the switch and saw that it went from open circuit (reading 1 indicating overflow or maxxed out reading) to closed circuit (1.2 ohms or thereabouts) as I moved the lever to make the switch operate).

I reconnected the switch and then closed the roof manually and found that the Latch switch S84/11 only makes the closed limit right at the end of its travel and that is why I couldn't hear it click when I was pressing the flap when the roof was open.

The Catch switch is also fine electrically. It makes its limit as soon as the roof reaches the front windshield and stays made while the roof goes to the fully closed position.

Next, I'm going to fully open the roof manually and see whether it will close ok.
 

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W209.4 Cabrio
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That didn't work. I folded the top down into the compartment but I couldn't get the compartment closed. It seemed to be blocked by something on each side although the lugs at front of the cover were lined up correctly at the catches and the side flaps were correctly positioned also.

I couldn't see exactly how the compartment latch was aligned with the soft top lugs but they seemed to be aligning up well before they disappeared from view.

One difficulty I have is that the compartment cover cylinders are knackered and can only be operated hydraulically, so I disconnect them for manual operation. Perhaps the cover would close if it was being assisted by the cylinders.

Also, the gas struts for the luggage cover need replacing so I had these off as well. And then there is the window motor issue. All to be repaired / replaced when I know what the problem is with the roof as I don't want to spent a ton on these and find the roof still doesn't operate.
 

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2008 AMG CLK63 Conv., 2012 R350 4-Matic, Wife's 2015 C300 sedan
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Can't you test the switches with the good old battery and flashlight bulb method? Light on, switch closed, light off, switch open?

You can do the same with a multimeter using the Ohms reader. Zero or near zero ohms, switch closed, infinite or very very high, ohms, switch open. Some multimeters even include a buzzer or LED for circuit testing these days.

And thanks go out to Rodney for suggesting changing the $30ish each Lift-o-mat struts before trying anything else. Fixed the roof operation on both our CLKs in about an hour, no shop visit required.
 
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