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So about 6 months ago, I was about 8 hrs away up in northern Wisconsin on a fishing trip. I was about 45 minutes from our cabin and noticed the gear selector on the dash change after overtaking a car on a 2 lane road. It only showed P, R, N, D and did not highlight whether I was in D or R or whatever. I stopped the car, turned it off and back on to no avail. I pulled away and could tell the car was in a higher gear than 2 or 3. It then threw a CEL. I pulled into a parking lot and let the car sit for 15 minutes. I restarted and the car still wouldnt show me whether Im in P, R, N, or D. The car is also stuck in 1st gear. Drove about 10 minutes at 15 mph and shut the car off again. The car was now showing me the gear selector but still had the check engine light. The car was no longer in limp mode, so I drove to the cabin carefully. I let the car sit for an hour and restarted it. Still CEL but no longer in limp mode. I took the car and drove for about 10 minutes and everything was fine outside of the CEL. I pulled over, turned the car off and restarted. Everything was fine and now the CEL was off. Drove the car again the next morning and all was fine--no limp mode and no CEL.

I drove home and the car was fine for an hour and then while on the highway, I look down and I'm in limp mode.....stuck in 4th (ish?) gear so I drove back home around 60mph (2k rpm) the whole way. Once back in Chicago, I turned the car off and upon restart, I'm in 1st gear limp mode. After a few cycles of the key, it was no longer in limp mode but CEL still on. After a few more cycles of the key, there was no CEL and it isnt in limp mode.

I took the car to my indy who Ive used for years. He used to run a BMW dealers service and can fix anything. He had the car for a week and couldnt get the issue to replicate. He spoke with friends of his at Mercedes dealers and they didnt really have any insight. So, after a week, I picked the car up and the car has had zero issues since....

This morning on my way to work, the same thing happened. I also noticed (and this may have happened last time but I didnt notice it) that after turning the car off and restarting, the chime in the cabin upon start up did not play which leads me to think it is an electronics issue. Im sure if I let the car sit for 2 days, the issue will disappear again for several months only to resurface.

Anyone have this problem before?
 

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So about 6 months ago, I was about 8 hrs away up in northern Wisconsin on a fishing trip. I was about 45 minutes from our cabin and noticed the gear selector on the dash change after overtaking a car on a 2 lane road. It only showed P, R, N, D and did not highlight whether I was in D or R or whatever. I stopped the car, turned it off and back on to no avail. I pulled away and could tell the car was in a higher gear than 2 or 3. It then threw a CEL. I pulled into a parking lot and let the car sit for 15 minutes. I restarted and the car still wouldnt show me whether Im in P, R, N, or D. The car is also stuck in 1st gear. Drove about 10 minutes at 15 mph and shut the car off again. The car was now showing me the gear selector but still had the check engine light. The car was no longer in limp mode, so I drove to the cabin carefully. I let the car sit for an hour and restarted it. Still CEL but no longer in limp mode. I took the car and drove for about 10 minutes and everything was fine outside of the CEL. I pulled over, turned the car off and restarted. Everything was fine and now the CEL was off. Drove the car again the next morning and all was fine--no limp mode and no CEL.

I drove home and the car was fine for an hour and then while on the highway, I look down and I'm in limp mode.....stuck in 4th (ish?) gear so I drove back home around 60mph (2k rpm) the whole way. Once back in Chicago, I turned the car off and upon restart, I'm in 1st gear limp mode. After a few cycles of the key, it was no longer in limp mode but CEL still on. After a few more cycles of the key, there was no CEL and it isnt in limp mode.

I took the car to my indy who Ive used for years. He used to run a BMW dealers service and can fix anything. He had the car for a week and couldnt get the issue to replicate. He spoke with friends of his at Mercedes dealers and they didnt really have any insight. So, after a week, I picked the car up and the car has had zero issues since....

This morning on my way to work, the same thing happened. I also noticed (and this may have happened last time but I didnt notice it) that after turning the car off and restarting, the chime in the cabin upon start up did not play which leads me to think it is an electronics issue. Im sure if I let the car sit for 2 days, the issue will disappear again for several months only to resurface.

Anyone have this problem before?
I have a 2010 C300w4 which has done the same thing. While in for service about a year ago (MB svc. ctr) they replaced a leaking component, a vacuum pump I think. Apparently oil got into the throttle pedal assy (throttle by wire”) which for some reason causes the problem. It usually happens when the system senses slippage and triggers the
 

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I have a 2010 C300w4 which has done the same thing. While in for service about a year ago (MB svc. ctr) they replaced a leaking component, a vacuum pump I think. Apparently oil got into the throttle pedal assy (throttle by wire”) which for some reason causes the problem. It usually happens when the system senses slippage and triggers the fault. A good friend who’s the head tech told me that the pedal assy may need replacing.
 

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First, spend $150 and get yourself a scanner (iCarsoft MB II) so you can read the codes for your transmission. The CEL/MIL only lights up for emission-related malfunctions and will not light up for a tranny problem (unless it's causing an emission problem). Also, tell up what year car you have and/or what transmission you have. If you don't know, enter your VIN in https://www.datamb.com/ which will tell you all about your engine and transmission.

There's a good chance that you have a failing/failed turbine, internal, or output speed sensor with one of the following codes:
  • Turbine Speed Sensor - Y3/8N1
    • 0715 - Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction
    • 0716 - Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
    • 0717 - The signal from component Y3/8N1 (Turbine Speed Sensor (VGS)) is not available
    • 0718 - The signal from component Y3/8N1 (Turbine Speed Sensor (VGS)) is defective
    • P2204 - The signal from component Y3/8N1 (Turbine speed sensor (VGS)) is not available
    • P2205 - The signal from component Y3/8N1 (Turbine Speed Sensor (VGS)) is defective
  • Internal Speed Sensor - Y3/8N2
    • 2766 - Excessive rpm’s have occurred at component Y3/8n2 (Internal speed sensor (VGS))
    • 2767 - The signal from component Y3/8n2 (Internal speed sensor (VGS)) is not available
    • 2768 - Component Y3/8n2 (Internal speed sensor (VGS)) is defective
    • P2200 - Component Y3/8n2(Internal Speed Sensor (VGS)) is not available
    • P2201 - The signal from component Y3/8n2 (Internal speed sensor (VGS)) is defective
  • Output Speed Sensor - Y3/8N3
    • 0720 - Output Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction
    • 0721 - Output Speed Sensor Range/Performance
    • 0722 - The signal from component Y3/8N3 (Output Speed Sensor (VGS)) is not available
    • 0723 - The signal from component Y3/8N3 (Output Speed Sensor (VGS)) is not Intermittent
    • P2206 - The signal from component Y3/8N3 (Output Speed Sensor (VGS)) is not available
    • P2207 - The value of component Y3/8n3 (Output Speed Sensor) is implausible
From there, you can spend $300 with Circuit Board Medics to repair your conductor plate or about $1800 with the dealer to replace your failed component.
 
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