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2002 Ml320 w163
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Discussion Starter #42
If this with the orange and teal plug ins is my eam...how do I remove it or do I just unplug it attached inside there and clean the pins? It would be on the left side of the dash cluster.
Will this part work for my 02 ml320 w163 Mercedes Benz?
 

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2003 ml500, 2004 ml350
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Bonita

There may be some confusion I think no one objected to you removing the cluster because you where planning on changing some/all bulbs? The EAM is accessed through the kick well. Remove the dust panel ( if you have not done so). EAM is up there a little to right of middle. Here is the best photo I can find of one installed. Note the courtesy light and screw, to the left the round circular object I think it is the top of parking brake. I believe that screw needs to be unfastened and the bracket hinges down? None of the instructions I have read including what Witek kindly posted say how to swing it down they all start with how to slide it out.
2619313
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Bonita

There may be some confusion I think no one objected to you removing the cluster because you where planning on changing some/all bulbs? The EAM is accessed through the kick well. Remove the dust panel ( if you have not done so). EAM is up there a little to right of middle. Here is the best photo I can find of one installed. Note the courtesy light and screw, to the left the round circular object I think it is the top of parking brake. I believe that screw needs to be unfastened and the bracket hinges down? None of the instructions I have read including what Witek kindly posted say how to swing it down they all start with how to slide it out.
View attachment 2619313
I don't know why I was mindset on it being behind to dash cluster!? Well at least I know how to do that now if I ever need to.lol. Thank you!😂
 

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2002 Ml320 w163
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Discussion Starter #47
Bonita

There may be some confusion I think no one objected to you removing the cluster because you where planning on changing some/all bulbs? The EAM is accessed through the kick well. Remove the dust panel ( if you have not done so). EAM is up there a little to right of middle. Here is the best photo I can find of one installed. Note the courtesy light and screw, to the left the round circular object I think it is the top of parking brake. I believe that screw needs to be unfastened and the bracket hinges down? None of the instructions I have read including what Witek kindly posted say how to swing it down they all start with how to slide it out.
View attachment 2619313
Here's why I thought I had to take out the dash cluster...someone said above the steering wheel column.lol
 

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2002 ML320, 2003 A160, 2002 ML500, 2018 GLS350d
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Sorry, but the layout in my RHD ML is different. Steering wheel is on right, but gas pedal is also on right adjacent to footwell fuse/relay box. Hood release is in passenger footwell, away to left.

So I don’t know where to find your EAM.

Will this work for my car even though its been replaced with a different parts number one?
Yes. A brand new old one will work just as well as the latest version (which is backwards compatible).
 

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Start error is usually related to your keyfab chip not being recognized by the ML computer ignition. I suggest you open your keyfab, confirm chip hasn't moved or slide around. The chip needs to be nearly perfect location or the computer thinks the car is being tampered with. You can remove chip and manually turn key with chip in different locations to test the proximity start. I suggest you maybe take it out of case, and rotate it right with the key very close to ignition and see if that works. MSG me for more info if u need gl!
 

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Start error is usually related to your keyfab chip not being recognized by the ML computer ignition. I suggest you open your keyfab, confirm chip hasn't moved or slide around. The chip needs to be nearly perfect location or the computer thinks the car is being tampered with. You can remove chip and manually turn key with chip in different locations to test the proximity start. I suggest you maybe take it out of case, and rotate it right with the key very close to ignition and see if that works. MSG me for more info if u need gl!
Bonita’s error is somewhere beyond her key her current key does not work as well as a valet key she ordered after the start error occurred.

Suspect right is the EAM because itt May of gotten wet due to a sunroof drain issue.
 

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The key will not work due to the chip malfunction, a valet key will also not start an ML obviously unless you have proper chip with it. Sorry maybe missed something, but not following your logic. No keys will work if the chip is out of position.

Do yourself a favor and open the keyfab. Inspect the chip, pull it out and manually try to start car with either key and hold chip on actual key near teeth close to ignition and rotate both same time. Hold chip with index finger and middle finger and rotate key smooth. Try with chip in multiple positions and report.
 

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The key will not work due to the chip malfunction, a valet key will also not start an ML obviously unless you have proper chip with it. Sorry maybe missed something, but not following your logic. No keys will work if the chip is out of position.

Do yourself a favor and open the keyfab. Inspect the chip, pull it out and manually try to start car with either key and hold chip on actual key near teeth close to ignition and rotate both same time. Hold chip with index finger and middle finger and rotate key smooth. Try with chip in multiple positions and report.
Her valet key was ordered to her vin number, from her local Benz dealer so my logic is that it the valet key should have the proper chip. I have myself ordered several valet keys and everyone has worked right off, If you have not had the chance read through all of the posts.

From all that I have read on keys and recognition I have never read one post where a no start was do to a misaligned chip. But it is Bonita's ML so it is up to her which direction she wants to go.
 

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w163 02 ML500 W210 97 E50Amg w202 99 C230K w124 - need more space, time to build again
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The key will not work due to the chip malfunction, a valet key will also not start an ML obviously unless you have proper chip with it. Sorry maybe missed something, but not following your logic. No keys will work if the chip is out of position.

Do yourself a favor and open the keyfab. Inspect the chip, pull it out and manually try to start car with either key and hold chip on actual key near teeth close to ignition and rotate both same time. Hold chip with index finger and middle finger and rotate key smooth. Try with chip in multiple positions and report.
darthcase,
That's nonsense.
Respectfully, you've repeated the same reasoning twice. The peasize chip in both the keyfob location and the mickey mouse valet keys are located where they are and they dont move. It is what it is. Any attempt to rotate, reposition, move these chips as you suggest is meaningless.

Bonita,

Follow the good suggestions of the vets members here if you havent done so.
Most times, it's a step-by-step process.

Lastly, wrt to your post #15, brake hiss - good to know that you have the replacement seal? kit to hopefully fix this.
The hissing can get quite annoying.
Not the easiest task to repair this when pulling out the BB, knowing that all the connectors and vacuum lines are 15-20+ yo and are brittle.
A short term solution to stop the brake hiss (possibly long term too depending on how bad the seal is...) is to use plastic food wrap - wrapped around the seal at the firewall (above the DS footwell) and then zip tied. It can literally seal the hiss (vacuum).
There are several posts on this fix and similar on the forum (google - "brake hiss site:benzworld.org")
 

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darthcase,
That's nonsense.
Respectfully, you've repeated the same reasoning twice. The peasize chip in both the keyfob location and the mickey mouse valet keys are located where they are and they dont move. It is what it is. Any attempt to rotate, reposition, move these chips as you suggest is meaningless.

Bonita,

Follow the good suggestions of the vets members here if you havent done so.
Most times, it's a step-by-step process.

Lastly, wrt to your post #15, brake hiss - good to know that you have the replacement seal? kit to hopefully fix this.
The hissing can get quite annoying.
Not the easiest task to repair this when pulling out the BB, knowing that all the connectors and vacuum lines are 15-20+ yo and are brittle.
A short term solution to stop the brake hiss (possibly long term too depending on how bad the seal is...) is to use plastic food wrap - wrapped around the seal at the firewall (above the DS footwell) and then zip tied. It can literally seal the hiss (vacuum).
There are several posts on this fix and similar on the forum (google - "brake hiss site:benzworld.org")
Unless you have actually ran into this problem and resolved it, I suggest you stfu already. You are not helping at all.

I can hotwire your ML, I can also start it with this keyshard if I wanted to. Trust me when i tell you that you are over-looking the obvious. The chip in the fab is finicky as fuck, not that hard of a concept. To fix start error issue, it can many times be resolved by opening the keyfab case and manipulating the chip along with key. Now... please pause the speculation, some of us actually know what the hell we are talking about. I have had this issue on a 2005 ml350. You sir, have you ever started a mercedes with a keyshard in a vicegrip before? No, didn't think so... you're ignorance far surpasses any knowledge of mercedes engineering sir. I maybe just joined, but i sure as shit didn't just start working on cars my friend.

2619490
 

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Darth
I try and keep an open mind, so point me to one case posted by someone other then your self anywhere on the internet where a w163 did not start and the problem was attributed to the chip not being aligned in the case. There are plenty of posts concerning issues with the board itself, solder loose, component burnt, etc.

But that is why when there is a no start issue we always ask the owner if they have tried all the keys they have, (which is what Bonita did). When all keys are not recognized the issue is with the system it self.
 

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Bro first if all the last post was directed at the other guy, not you. Secondly it is very possible it is not a chip issue. How hard is it to remove chip and manipulate for trouble shooting. Start easy and drive down the rabbit hole. In my experience it is most always the simple answer. That is where I would start, and drive deeper if that doesn't work. You must first confirm working and no working things prior to getting to logic boards etc.

You don't need a keyfab logic board to start this truck. You need a valet key and a chip that is all. So by testing chip proximity issues , you can rule out or confirm course of action. The chip board is pointless to starting the car it literally does nothing. Ill make a video to show you what I mean. I don't need a logic board to start my ml watch.... Just trying to help and there's a logical path and random path. Logic leads to identification of the fault.
 

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You don't need a keyfab logic board to start this truck.
You are correct the logic board is only for the locks/alarm.

Bonita has a no start with her fob key and with her valet (AKA: mickey mouse/chip/RFID) key. So where to Now?
If you do not get one blink on the center console with either key you do not get a start.
 

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2002 Ml320 w163
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Discussion Starter #59
I thought it could be the key and that's why I went to a Mercedes Benz dealership in Dublin Ohio and had a new key made. It didn't work either. So I was told also by the Mercedes Benz dealership that it was some where between the key transponder ring and the rest of the system. They said if it where to be the key my new one would work but the old one wouldn't. So I'm working my way through the system 1 step at a time. And when does anyone with any intelligence call someone "bro"? This site is to help people...not compare penis size. I think you got pretty rude for no reason darthcase. But I do thank you for trying to help.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
darthcase,
That's nonsense.
Respectfully, you've repeated the same reasoning twice. The peasize chip in both the keyfob location and the mickey mouse valet keys are located where they are and they dont move. It is what it is. Any attempt to rotate, reposition, move these chips as you suggest is meaningless.

Bonita,

Follow the good suggestions of the vets members here if you havent done so.
Most times, it's a step-by-step process.

Lastly, wrt to your post #15, brake hiss - good to know that you have the replacement seal? kit to hopefully fix this.
The hissing can get quite annoying.
Not the easiest task to repair this when pulling out the BB, knowing that all the connectors and vacuum lines are 15-20+ yo and are brittle.
A short term solution to stop the brake hiss (possibly long term too depending on how bad the seal is...) is to use plastic food wrap - wrapped around the seal at the firewall (above the DS footwell) and then zip tied. It can literally seal the hiss (vacuum).
There are several posts on this fix and similar on the forum (google - "brake hiss site:benzworld.org")
I was told on the seal there are holes made in the seal for a reason? I also bought seal maker so I could find the hole that is suppose to be there and use the seal maker around it? I was told by a shop after buying the new seal kit that they would have to unplug the computer to replace it with the new one and that they didn't want to take responsibility to do it.lol. Can you tell me more info about this. And I recognize the ones on here that know what they are talking about and the ones whom don't. Wallyo, Drx and you are my 3 trusted people so far.lol
 
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