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1998 W140 S420
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271 Posts
Anyone have an engine vacuum diagram? I have rough idle on my car and when i inspected the vacuum lines i found that the vacuum line going from my MAP sensor isn't connected to anything, where do i connect it to? Or is it meant to be like that?
 

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Mercedes 420 SEC 1989
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196 Posts
Here are a few pictures, hope they help:



Not sure which line you are referring to, but let us know how it goes!

-Paul

Anyone have an engine vacuum diagram? I have rough idle on my car and when i inspected the vacuum lines i found that the vacuum line going from my MAP sensor isn't connected to anything, where do i connect it to? Or is it meant to be like that?
 

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SEC 600 V12 2dr COUPE (RHD) One of the chosen few.
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2,233 Posts
Discussion Starter #244
See IF I can get this to upload
:surrender:
I have the PDF of the gearbox but it is 6.7 Meg
how do I upload it ?
 

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1997 S320 LWB & 1996 S500. Sold 1996 S320 SWB
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227 Posts
Great amount of information. I thank you!

I have traced the problem to the soft close of the trunk mechanism. Before I take it out and apart, are these repairable/rebuildable?
 

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Mercedes S500 - W140 && S500 W220.
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821 Posts
**********converting self levelling (SLS) rear shocks to regular shocks.*******

You can do this using MB parts from the dealer. For the price of 1 hydraulic shock, you can get 2 new rear shocks, 2 new rear springs, 2 shims/pads and labour!

The SLS springs look identical to non SLS springs but you cannot use SLS springs with regular shocks. The rear of your car will hit the floor as SLS springs are too weak to support the weight of the car. You will need non SLS springs + shims in addition to regular non SLS Bilstein shocks. You can get all these parts from your local MB dealer, and part #'s that worked for me are listed below. The car's ride height is correct after the conversion (pic attached below) and rides very well. Afterall, I did use OEM MB parts.

*Pads/shims*

The pads/shims come in 4 sizes:

1403250184 - 8 mm
1403250284 - 13 mm
1403250384 - 18 mm
1403250484 - 23 mm

I had the 13 mm shims on my car with the SLS setup. To get the correct ride height after the conversion, the 23mm shim worked well for me.

*Rear shocks*

Bilstein rear shock part # is F4-B46-1707-H0 and retails for $125 cdn / each

*Rear springs*

Here are the W140 spring choices:

(look wise, SLS vs non SLS springs look absolutely identical in shape, size, & appearance)

With self levelling ................ without

140 324 0704 .................... 140 324 0504
140 324 0804 .................... 140 324 0604
140 324 1504 .................... 140 324 1304
140 324 1604 .................... 140 324 1404
140 324 1804 .................... 140 324 1704
140 324 1904 .................... 140 324 2104

My SLS car had 1804 springs. I assumed the logical corresponding non SLS would be 1704 since load rating for both is the same, but in reality, I end up with a low rider. The correct non SLS spring is 2104 along with a pair of 23mm shims
For the sake of completion, can we please have part numbers for front springs too ?
 

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93 Mercedes 300SD
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214 Posts
Cruise Update

This does not apply to gas powered w140s.

I've got two 1993 300sd w140s with no cruise. After fixing one of the cruise amps, it is clear that both cars had bad cruise control ampilifiers. I had seen posts on these amps suggesting resoldering the connections on the board with varying results (easy to take outer case off). I did reflowed joints with a fine tip on my soldering iron and it recovered one of my amplifiers (restores the cruise in both cars.) I've not tried the second amplifier to see if this will recover it too. It looks like the cruise amp is a common point of failure with these cars. I don't have the part number and it does not show up in parts lists for these cars at all the parts sights, but rebuilt ones are available from Autohauz, etc. for about $200. Just search for the part number. I may update with part numbers when I go after my spare cruise amp (one 300sd is going to junk yard from deer hit!) I think the two cars had different numbers.

W126 cruise control amp is under the dash at the steering wheel. Even though, the same amp in the w140, it is in the CAN (thing that says battery in trunk under the hood). It really is not part of the CAN as is piggy backed onto another component towards the front of the CAN. If you tilt up the right side of its black piggy apparatus you can get if off the back of the other component and gently bring it up and get the plug loose from the bottom. Its tight and don't force it. You also can free the component from the CAN to which the cruise is piggy backed. Its not directly plugged into the base of the CAN either and has a more substantial plug on the bottom. I don't think either has a fancy release mechanism for the plub, but the larger one might. Easier to cleverly remove amp only, but those with big hands might have to pull both units.

A lot of solder joints on the board. Looking at an hour to resolder. My board looked like it just came off the assembly line. Beautiful. I was very skeptical that this would work, but it did. Tried cleaning connector to cruise amp, but that did nothing. I just could not believe it when the resoldering worked. I reflowed/melted all the joints, no new solder. One might just get a rebuilt cruise amp and avoid this step, but its tough to spend $200 and not be sure that it will fix the issue. There are a number of W126 cruise posts so reference them, but I don't believe they have a fail safe cruise amp test. I'll be getting codes from my CAN shortly and will update if the vehicle with bad cruise amp is throwing a code, which might provide a definitive diagnosis for W140.
This fix lasted about a year. I still had the second bad module. Just re-flowed all the solder joints on that board (one hour). It is in the car and working. That is two cruise modules that I have fixed by re-flowing the solder joints. I'll re-flow the first one again if the current one acts up.

The boards look great. The two electrolytic capacitors look to be of high quality. My two cruise units have different part numbers. One is from 1993 the other from 1998.
 

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Premium Member
1991 560 SEC 1994 E500 2014 E350 Cab
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7,029 Posts
Anyone have the p/n for the rubber sunroof accordion bellows on a coupe? I installed a sunroof in my w126 and the p/n on the rubber isn't found on epc. I need the left side.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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1998 S500
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44 Posts
Hello, Im trying to access the link to the SLS Delete -by snik under BRAKES, SUSPENSION & STEERING and it is not there. Anybody have a way to access it? Thanks!
 

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92 300CE/1996 mustang cobra (supercharged)/12 Civic/15 F150/04 F150 mud truck
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8,105 Posts
anything for a stuck passenger rear window ?
 

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1992 600 SEL x 3, 1998 E430, 2002 E320T 4matic, 1971 300SEL 3.5 project plus 4 more W108, etc
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765 Posts
Carl

In my experience, limited as it may be, the rear windows get less use and tend to "gum up". At least in my W124 this was the case and disassembling the motors and re-lubricating them solved the issues. I cannot say for certain with the W140 but you can unbolt the motors from the regulator mechanism and use a suitable device (a flat bar in my case that fit the cog recess) to see if the window will move. Chances are the regulator is shot though. Just my two bits worth. The destructions below are from Alldata, which I highly recommend. It does not cover all but is a great help.

Pete

Removal
Vapor seal below door liner
pull off.
Couplings (2 each) on window lift motor
pull off.
Cable strap (1)
open.
Intorx screws (2) (Tx 30)
screw out (9 Nm ).
Window lift motor
remove.

Installation
Reinstall in opposite order.

! The window lift motor must be resynchronized (basic adjustment). For this purpose close window with window lift switch (automatic closing control does not function) and allow window to run against stop for 1-2 s .
 

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92 300CE/1996 mustang cobra (supercharged)/12 Civic/15 F150/04 F150 mud truck
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8,105 Posts
thanks pete

thanks pete
I may have screwed it up but I cut the cable and moved it into the up position.
I will fix it next spring
 

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1992 600 SEL x 3, 1998 E430, 2002 E320T 4matic, 1971 300SEL 3.5 project plus 4 more W108, etc
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765 Posts
Yea, well you probably need a new cassette to start with, so no real harm done in getting it closed immediately. A closed window being a definite requirement with the batch of winter we just sent you people. We did not want it and so passed it along for all to enjoy. lol

Pete
 

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1994 S500 W140
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181 Posts
hey just replaced my third (3) window regulator. I have less cuts on my hands this time so does that mean i getting better at this:eek

Okay, can someone help me with an issue: my head rest on the front seats is not working. I can here clicking but it sounds like it is coming from the dash!! Any ideas where to start or how to trouble shoot this???
 

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2010 Mercedes Benz B180, 1998 Subaru Forester GX, 1997 Mercedes Benz S420.
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23 Posts
Hey guys, last night one of my main bulbs blew out, so i am going to replace both, what bulbs should i buy?

Btw just replacing standard H1 55 W 12V no xenon or anything like that.
 

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1996 W140 S-320 LWB
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26 Posts
Need A/C help

Hey guys I'm still trying to get the A/C working. I'm 98% sure its the compressor and or clutch is the problem. Here is where I need some help. I just received my 2nd attempt at ordering a compressor, the latest one has 3 wires the old one only had 1. Did get another wrong compressor or are they all this way now? Star classic list this as the correct one. The place I ordered it claimed exact fit. Please Help. Denso Part #471-1230 Mercedes # 000 230 22 11
p.s Whats the thing with the blue wire?
Thanks
Mark
 

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600SEL
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1,083 Posts
If I understand correctly your old compressor has only 1 wire? If true, it will never work in W140. The other 2 wires are for the speed sensor signal and it is absolutely needed. The blue wire is surge suppressor.
 

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1995 S320 W140 LWB
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3 Posts
Hello hello! Newbie here :)

My Merc is a 1995 S320 W140 LWB. My glove compartment won't open. I know this is a common in Mercedes in general but the issue is that I can't even take apart the lock. You're supposed to put the tool into the little hole with the key in it an at angle (I tried every which way) and I seem to be able to sort of feel with my wire the spot where it's supposed to go in but there is resistance. Is there any other way to get in the compartment without destroying the car? The guy who had it before me had it for about 3 months and said that he couldn't get into it either, so who knows what's in there. The people before seemed to do some modifications to it (as well as sell off all the parts they could with it still running) and we have fixed most of the stuff but this damn compartment will not open for us!

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!
 
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