W140 Class control arm bushings
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
JFK:You know, unless you are an expert mechanic with the appropiate spring compression...
JFK:
You know, unless you are an expert mechanic with the appropiate spring compression tools, this can be a moderate job. If it was me, anything to do with brakes, steering, and suspension, I let the pros do it. I just do not want to worry about it being done right while I am driving my "3 ton Panzerwagen". Think about it, OK? I do not think this will be cheap, though.
Joey
[:0]
JFK:
You know, unless you are an expert mechanic with the appropiate spring compression tools, this can be a moderate job. If it was me, anything to do with brakes, steering, and suspension, I let the pros do it. I just do not want to worry about it being done right while I am driving my "3 ton Panzerwagen". Think about it, OK? I do not think this will be cheap, though.
Joey
[:0]
Lower bushings
The lower bushings are "hydraulic" and require a special tool to install. It will be quite a job if the car is not on a frame lift. The front springs need to be compressed so the "A" arm can be released. I had mine done at the dealer, they replaced the bushings in the sway bars at the same time, it makes quite a difference
The lower bushings are "hydraulic" and require a special tool to install. It will be quite a job if the car is not on a frame lift. The front springs need to be compressed so the "A" arm can be released. I had mine done at the dealer, they replaced the bushings in the sway bars at the same time, it makes quite a difference
Control Arms
Joey,
The reason I do this myself is because of the so call professional mechanics seem to know less than I. A prime example is my Crown Vic, I have spent over 2 thousand dollars after having it tuned up only to have it not to run properly. I finally checked it out myself and found the pro had pulled the plug wires out by the wires and of course pulling to wires out of the boots. The car missed terribly. It cost me another $80.00 to repair myself for the cost of new wires.
JFK
Joey,
The reason I do this myself is because of the so call professional mechanics seem to know less than I. A prime example is my Crown Vic, I have spent over 2 thousand dollars after having it tuned up only to have it not to run properly. I finally checked it out myself and found the pro had pulled the plug wires out by the wires and of course pulling to wires out of the boots. The car missed terribly. It cost me another $80.00 to repair myself for the cost of new wires.
JFK
JFK:
What I meant about the pros I am referring to a mechanic who you can trust. I mys...
JFK:
What I meant about the pros I am referring to a mechanic who you can trust. I myself, do not trust the dealers. I think they are out to rip you off everytime. They always seem to find something else to charge you with. I know since my father used to be a service advisor in a VW dealer. He always told me to be very careful because the idea is to "pad-up" the repair order and/or make the problem much bigger than what it is. However, you also have to be careful with private shops: I once had a problem with my 88 420SEL that turned out to be the air valve on the side of the throttle body. The "pro" (at a private shop, mind you!) told me that it was the O2 sensor and it needed to be replaced. He screwed up the fuel mixture so that the ECU would show that it was failing and wanted $265.00 to fix it. I told him to leave it alone. When I picked up the car, I found a pair of wire cutters in the engine bay. I found a very reliable mechanic to determined it was a defective air valve controller. He replaced it, and it took him over 20 minutes to get the fuel/air mixture right, and it only cost me about 220.00 from then on, I drove the 65+ miles to let this guy work on my car. He never let me down and I will see him again for my 99 S500 if I need to. But the dealer - forget it!! Unless I absolutely have to. The point is: find someone you can trust, and stick with them! I still advise you to find a realiable shop (by referrals from friends) and have them do this work for you, OK! I think it is dangerous work - everything is in such high tension. But if you do it, please be careful and safe.
[
]
Joey
What I meant about the pros I am referring to a mechanic who you can trust. I mys...
JFK:
What I meant about the pros I am referring to a mechanic who you can trust. I myself, do not trust the dealers. I think they are out to rip you off everytime. They always seem to find something else to charge you with. I know since my father used to be a service advisor in a VW dealer. He always told me to be very careful because the idea is to "pad-up" the repair order and/or make the problem much bigger than what it is. However, you also have to be careful with private shops: I once had a problem with my 88 420SEL that turned out to be the air valve on the side of the throttle body. The "pro" (at a private shop, mind you!) told me that it was the O2 sensor and it needed to be replaced. He screwed up the fuel mixture so that the ECU would show that it was failing and wanted $265.00 to fix it. I told him to leave it alone. When I picked up the car, I found a pair of wire cutters in the engine bay. I found a very reliable mechanic to determined it was a defective air valve controller. He replaced it, and it took him over 20 minutes to get the fuel/air mixture right, and it only cost me about 220.00 from then on, I drove the 65+ miles to let this guy work on my car. He never let me down and I will see him again for my 99 S500 if I need to. But the dealer - forget it!! Unless I absolutely have to. The point is: find someone you can trust, and stick with them! I still advise you to find a realiable shop (by referrals from friends) and have them do this work for you, OK! I think it is dangerous work - everything is in such high tension. But if you do it, please be careful and safe.
[
]Joey
if your so called parts installer used his 42" pry bar on the lower bushings to show you...
if your so called parts installer used his 42" pry bar on the lower bushings to show you they move...... they are suppose to move. find a mechanic, not a parts installer........
if your so called parts installer used his 42" pry bar on the lower bushings to show you they move...... they are suppose to move. find a mechanic, not a parts installer........
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