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3lfk1ng are these upgrades stage one mods, would you need to upgrade the transmission and valves? Will the car be reliable as an occasional driver.
 

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According to him those were the only two mods that were needed in order to output 355HP, compared to the long list of expensive mods that were performed on the Carobu setup (first shop + Carobu).
The cams are race profile so the idle will indeed be rough but I know there are a few that might actually prefer that kind of German muscle under hood.
I highly doubt these aggressive cams would do anything to help promote reliability but they are his companies cams (currently out of stock) so I'm sure they have undergone some testing before being offered for public sale.

If you're interested, I've noticed that he is incredibly quick to respond to any questions that are asked via Private Message on his Facebook page.
 

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The package you see Mike at dkubus has provided for the white Euro 300hp 560 RUF engine that he has just finished dialing in (tuning) is as follows-
(Note: His product is for un-opened engines, so no internal work done)

His bolt on FrankenCIS KE-Jet Kit (spark & fuel)

276 duration Cams he now has made local in Aust from blank cold chill billets (so these are top shelf cams in terms of quality - no cheap arse shortcuts here)

His higher stall converter - needed to work with the cams for good street manners and this is an exchange basis for yours or send yours in to get done and shipped back.

All of the above are required for the the power/torque increase to achieved (along with non faulty CIS system (FD & injectors & fuel pumps all good and no vac leaks etc) as the kit can't mask any pre-existing faults.

The 300hp Euro RUF engine has 10:1 comp & Tr-Y's as standard and this coupe also had a custom exhaust (no factory Kidneys or Factory rear muffler)

And yes he has achieved smooth idle at normal factory idle speed and pleasant road driving manners with this tune (so no stalling or shaking engine) it just sounds mean and has that glorious lofty idle where you know the engine means business when you pull into a servo etc (that luscious cammed sound in the exhaust note with the tight lobe separation causing overlap)

The aprox cost of applying the above system is AUD $10k

The build cost on the Carobu engine would have been in the $20k to $30k range easy.
 

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No Problem - with the exchange rate of the Aussie to USD or GBP even the Euro it works in your favour - AUD $10k = USD$7.8k
The cams are AUD$2.5k for the pair, so not cheap. The only way you could get that cost down is if Feind Motorsports in USA was still in business but he has been off line since late 2015? (production cost was a bit cheaper from his cam maker source back then +2yrs ago) Hence why Mike had to go his own way in getting these made for the Kit.
https://www.facebook.com/pg/feindmotorsports/posts/?ref=page_internal

If you had an existing Euro 300hp 560 and wanted to just add the tuning kit he does not have a tune for that engine yet (requires him to create a tune with many hrs of work with that combo engine in his workshop, on the street and dyno time.
 

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A buddy recently pointed out what many of us W126 guys should have noticed years ago.
We probably were just too smart for our own good with corresponding tunnel vision.
I never paid much attention why mercedes made the log headers in two parts that can be separated in the middle, which now makes perfect sense.
With the Euro logs, only the rear part that leads down on either side of the engine is different, the front part is the same, whether US or Euro log headers, so the 2 rear halves of the headers are all that's needed for the conversion.
Outlet at engine and and inside diameter of header is about 2 inches, whether on 560, 500, or 420.

Read the other more elaborate same topic thread:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w126-s-se-sec-sel-sd/2914281-m117-16-euro-log-headers.html

Only the front half of the log headers are the same. On North America spec log headers the right hand = passenger side header goes into a pipe that bends around the back of the engine and joins at the rear of left header = US drivers side to go into one single downpipe.
Its probably the reason the R = passenger side cylinder bank / cam & valve train frequently goes bad first.
Its limited breathing.
 

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I never paid much attention why mercedes made the log headers in two parts that can be separated in the middle, which now makes perfect sense.
That's a great convenience for folks looking to upgrade, but I suspect it's only a coincidence. I've seen plenty of single casting manifolds bolted to aluminum heads that crack, usually somewhere between the second and third cylinder (numbered from either end). Adding the expansion bellows between the front two and the rear two eliminates this problem. I've seen several ways to deal with the problem, but they always involve relieving stress between the first and last exhaust ports on the head.
 

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That's a great convenience for folks looking to upgrade, but I suspect it's only a coincidence. I've seen plenty of single casting manifolds bolted to aluminum heads that crack, usually somewhere between the second and third cylinder (numbered from either end). Adding the expansion bellows between the front two and the rear two eliminates this problem. I've seen several ways to deal with the problem, but they always involve relieving stress between the first and last exhaust ports on the head.
It makes shipping easier and cheaper as well.

According to another thread I posted (see earlier link in post #109), the separate and different rear halves of the Euro or US log headers are not being offered by Mercedes, only the complete side?

Several years ago, a member had found in a Florida wrecking yard a 380 Euro with 380 specific (and differently numbered) TYRY-Y's (there is a thread here somewhere in junkyard finds perhaps?). That was the only such set anyone here had ever heard of, and we thought it had to have a different diameter compared to the more common but still extremely rare M117 TRY-Y's.

But contrary to my earlier thinking, it seems the Euro logs for M116 & M117 share similar diameters. My buddy who pointed out that only the rear halves are needed for a conversion, did so on both his 420 and the rear M117 Euro log half mated perfectly with the M116 front part / center expansion joints.
Actually, instead of shipping stuff clear across the US, I put Fonzi in touch with a member who was interested in my rear header halves for a M117 conversion, as the buyer was right up the road from him.
He bought the 380 Euro logs with downpipes which apparently mate right up to his 500 M117.

Btw, from W108/9 Euro 280SEL 4.5's I have 2 sets of the early performance headers, where one side looks like the regular log header, the other side an earlier TRY-Y configuration.
Cheers
 
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