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Discussion Starter #41
No, not on its own. How could it? The trunk mechanism's on all 126's are a manual affair. The air tubes that are part of the lock and unlock system are only to lock and unlock the key bolt, not actually open the lock.

I am sure you "could" replace that mechinism with a power version, but that's a very high skill set. Now, if you hook it up correctly, it will unlock the trunk and doors. That's easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Pics and links restored.
 

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Sorry guys, i know this post is old, can somebody restore the pictures in the first post ? i am trying to install my keyless device according to post #1 instructions.
 

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Faiz, this pic should be applicable for your '88. Couldn't find the wiring diagram to verify, but it's what's described in the first post. Disregard the two separate units and colors and apply to whatever you're working with. Most of them have internal relays. Main thing is the 12V+/- and lock/unlock signal wire.

 

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Thank you !! is this the system we are talking about ?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Remote-Keyless-Entry-for-car-central-lock-KE669W-ULT/360621012598?hash=item53f6aff676:g:LlIAAOSwZ3pcAaPJ&frcectupt=true




Faiz, this pic should be applicable for your '88. Couldn't find the wiring diagram to verify, but it's what's described in the first post. Disregard the two separate units and colors and apply to whatever you're working with. Most of them have internal relays. Main thing is the 12V+/- and lock/unlock signal wire.

 

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The wiring on that unit follows what appears to have become the standard generic keyless entry colors. Here's a full how-to. Disregard the wires that come from the harness on the bottom of the unit according to the diagram you posted for the auxiliary features for the time being.

First, prep the Keyless unit. You can do this part indoors.

1. Solder or use a butt-end connector to connect the white/black wire to the orange wire.

2. Splice into or use a wiretap connector to connect the yellow/black wire along the red wire, and put a male spade connector on the end of the red wire.

3. Splice into or use a wiretap connector to connect the yellow wire along the black wire, and put a male spade connector on the end of the black wire.

4. Put a female spade connector on the white wire and a male spade connector on the orange/black wire. DO NOT CONNECT THESE WIRES TOGETHER.


Then on vacuum pump:

5. Put t-taps on the red and brown wires. Stagger them appropriately so they can lay flat as possible when you tuck everything away.

6. Cut the green wire and put a male spade connector on the side coming out the pump, and a female on the side that extends into the car's wiring.


Then to connect the keyless to the car:

7. Connect the spade from the red wire of the keyless into the t-tap on the red wire on the pump.

8. Connect the spade from the black wire of the keyless into the t-tap on the brown wire on the pump.

9. Put the male spade from the green wire on the pump into the female spade on the white wire of the keyless.

10. Put the male spade from the orange/black wire of the keyless into the female spade on the green wire that goes into the car.


The wiring's done! Make sure the jumper on the keyless is set for pneumatic, and pair the remotes using the instructions and test it out before buttoning the car back up. Don't forget to run the antenna.

You can worry about connecting it to the lights or any of the other functions later.
 

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Thank you sir, what a great writing!! as a plan B do you know which pin to target on X-30 block in case i decided to install it there ?


The wiring on that unit follows what appears to have become the standard generic keyless entry colors. Here's a full how-to. Disregard the wires that come from the harness on the bottom of the unit according to the diagram you posted for the auxiliary features for the time being.
 

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I'm sorry; I do not. I'm a W201 guy. Happy to help where there is crossover, but I am reluctant to speak on things I have no experience with. I can tell you that with the W126 vac pump being in the trunk I see no compelling reason from here to install the keyless box anywhere other than near it, unless perhaps you plan to use any of those extra features. Running leads to the taillights for the flash notification will be easier than it was in my W201 where the vac pump is under the rear seat and required removing the seatback and trunk lining to do.
 

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I thought I'd reply back to this thread and confirm that the excellent 10-step instructions @partnumber187 quoted worked for me perfectly. I have a '91 560 SEL and used this kit from eBay, as referenced earlier here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Remote-Keyless-Entry-for-car-central-lock-KE669W-ULT/360621012598?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649.

My only addition: the 'red' wire carrying unswitched (always hot) +12v is red + white on my '91.

Also, I thought some pics might be helpful - attached roughly in order. If you follow the 10-step instructions below, these pics will make sense. As far as location goes, it seems like anything besides putting the brain near the pneumatic pump would be a lot of unnecessary work. In my installation, I bundled the unused wires (for the lights, trunk release) in velcro. I plan to hook up the lights later and then will remove any wires that are still unused.
 

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Oh wow, thank you !! i will go and buy clips today, any plans on cutting and using they keys ? my plan was to buy blank factory key and grind it to make it fit, but one of the members he didn't recommend that as must of the shops can't cut laser keys


I thought I'd reply back to this thread and confirm that the excellent 10-step instructions @partnumber187 quoted worked for me perfectly. I have a '91 560 SEL and used this kit from eBay, as referenced earlier here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Remote-Keyless-Entry-for-car-central-lock-KE669W-ULT/360621012598?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649.

My only addition: the 'red' wire carrying unswitched (always hot) +12v is red + white on my '91.

Also, I thought some pics might be helpful - attached roughly in order. If you follow the 10-step instructions below, these pics will make sense. As far as location goes, it seems like anything besides putting the brain near the pneumatic pump would be a lot of unnecessary work. In my installation, I bundled the unused wires (for the lights, trunk release) in velcro. I plan to hook up the lights later and then will remove any wires that are still unused.
 

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Regarding the keys: If you order the kit I sent the link to, they'll send you the correct key blanks installed on the switchblade fob. There are 3 choices for Mercedes - it's the one that looks like your W126 key. I was able to find a shop locally (Seattle, WA) that has the correct machine and just had the switchblade keys cut today. They work fine in my car. Just took a couple phone calls. Ask whether they have a 'sidewinder' machine to cut side-groove car keys.

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
 

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I i ordered the correct keys, but i don't trust using them in my ignition :grin, so i thought cut blank factory keys is much safer, beside i checked the reviews on using non factory keys they said it will worn your ignition quickly.


Regarding the keys: If you order the kit I sent the link to, they'll send you the correct key blanks installed on the switchblade fob. There are 3 choices for Mercedes - it's the one that looks like your W126 key. I was able to find a shop locally (Seattle, WA) that has the correct machine and just had the switchblade keys cut today. They work fine in my car. Just took a couple phone calls. Ask whether they have a 'sidewinder' machine to cut side-groove car keys.

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
 

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All good points. For me, I wanted to use the switchblade key integrated into the fob - a nice convenience. If you order factory W126 keys, obviously they won't work in that switchblade fob. Is there an alternative - for example, are you thinking of ordering W140 or R129 keys, which I think were in a similar (but definitely not identical) switchblade fob? Another alternative that I may look into: getting the key blanks that come with the fob cut at a Mercedes dealer. I sorta doubt they do this, i.e. I bet all they can do is order new, but worth checking. Any other ideas you have, please share.

I i ordered the correct keys, but i don't trust using them in my ignition :grin, so i thought cut blank factory keys is much safer, beside i checked the reviews on using non
factory keys they said it will worn your ignition quickly.
 

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All good points. For me, I wanted to use the switchblade key integrated into the fob - a nice convenience. If you order factory W126 keys, obviously they won't work in that switchblade fob. Is there an alternative - for example, are you thinking of ordering W140 or R129 keys, which I think were in a similar (but definitely not identical) switchblade fob? Another alternative that I may look into: getting the key blanks that come with the fob cut at a Mercedes dealer. I sorta doubt they do this, i.e. I bet all they can do is order new, but worth checking. Any other ideas you have, please share.
2phast cut down a factory key to use in an aftermarket switchblade remote.



Stereo Updates
 

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Any longer-term report on this system? I bought one of the old "Aussie Plus" systems that were "made" for our car. I worked fine, but the remote batteries would die after about 2 months, rendering it useless. How is the performance on these remotes? I would REALLY like to have one of these on both my 124 and 126.

Rob
 

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They're only $15-30. If it dies buy another and replace it. Being a cheap Chinese part of dubious quality is one of the reasons I suggest using spade connectors rather than soldering it in. That said, I've had mine in the W201 for nearly three years without issue.
 

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i decided to go the long way and put mine in rear fender from inside behind the trunk side cover, also i bought Lexus RX 350 KEYLESS ENTRY DOOR WARNING BUZZER (eBay item number:112488284176) and plug it to the pink wire (Horn wire), also i ran 2 wires from PIN#3 on the tail lights for the turning signals. Next i will run a long wire to the instrument cluster next to the O2 sensor light (the empty slot) for the keyless entry LED, i will change the LED to red instead of purple, and print a lock sign of put it from inside. thank you all for the instructions, very easy and simple.
 

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Thanks for the feedback. I'm not concerned about the price at all, the batteries for the remote for the other that I had were like $10 and only lasted a month or two, and then no keyless entry. That gets expensive quickly, and still no reliable remote... Three years is MUCH better than what I would expect for that price.

Rob
Apologies, I read your post as a query about the quality of the unit itself. That does sound annoying and expensive. The batteries in the remote for my generic keyless unit are a common size disc battery that cost $5 for two at Home Depot or similar.

Faiz, that looks good. Funny we had discussion not too long ago in the W201 board about using a Lexus lock alert buzzer, but no one tmk has installed one yet.
 

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Thank you, check the link below if you are interested, you can use anyone you like,

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-2009-LEXUS-RX330-RX350-KEYLESS-ENTRY-DOOR-WARNING-BUZZER-OEM-89747-48020/112488284176?fits=Make:Lexus&hash=item1a30d30010:g:VlAAAOSwglZZcDhN




Apologies, I read your post as a query about the quality of the unit itself. That does sound annoying and expensive. The batteries in the remote for my generic keyless unit are a common size disc battery that cost $5 for two at Home Depot or similar.

Faiz, that looks good. Funny we had discussion not too long ago in the W201 board about using a Lexus lock alert buzzer, but no one tmk has installed one yet.
 
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