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Discussion Starter #21
I can unlock the car from the passenger side, so does this mean I still need the solenoid.
No, you have the vacuum pump.
 

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Nice I am ordering up one of those keyless entry units tonight.

Thank You
 

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So looking for some clarification.... regarding the x30 box, the connectors, what wire colors go where in relation to the 1,2,3,4,5 on the pins? The diagram reads yellow and black wires to -12v and red and yellow/black to +12v, is that it as far as the pins go or are there other wires that need to be soldered onto the connector? Also, is it the orange/black and white wires that connect to the blue wire in the driver door panel? Lastly (I know) what wires are designated to the hazard lights and horn, from the picture I see pink and brown.... Thank you for understanding and your patience.
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
No, the X30 box SUPPLIES power to the various units that you may want to attach. The + and - 12 volts that you are referring to are the voltages that trigger the lock and unlock functions. They get connected to one of the door lock power bundles. And the door lock vacuum pump works on a + 12 volt and ground potential system, not a +/-12volt system. In that: To UNLOCK the doors, when a key is turned, +12 volts is routed to the vacuum pump via pin 1, 2 or 3 depending on which door/trunk lock sent the signal. Conversely, if you turn the key to the LOCK position, negative ground potential is sent to those pins as well. Pin 1 is a yellow wire coming from the trunk, pin 2 is a blue wire coming from the drivers door and pin 3 is a green wire coming from the passenger side door. Coupe or sedan, it does not matter because the rear doors in a sedan have no locks.

The three colored wires have a tap at the X48 block that goes to the factory alarm system to set and unset the alarm unit. This is where I tapped into the system at. So when my alarm locks or unlocks the car, it also sets the alarm too. There is a setting on the alarm unit to set it from -12 volts to ground potential. You need to set this function.

Next, setting the hazards: I did this at the hazard switch itself. I believe it's the pink wire, but it's been two years so read your instructions and this thread. But what you need to do is split the single wire into two, diode protected feeds. A diode is basically an electrical one way valve. It lets electricity flow in one direction only, and does not let it "back up". Go to Radio Shack and get a couple of 1N4001 1A diodes. There is not much power so a 1 amp diode is fine. Catalog #276-1101 I believe. You can get the 3A if you are really paranoid, but I used the 1 amp. Power flows in the direction of the arrow. You solder both diodes together at the anodes, and the cathodes go to each side of the hazard switch, like this:

(+) .....--->|----- ..... (-)
[anode] ....... [cathode]
"current flow happens"

The plus side will be the pink wire side (if that's the color from the alarm unit) and the - side goes to each side of the hazard switch on the side that feeds the lights. One side is Black/Green (Drivers side) and the other is Black/White (Passenger side) (they are marked L and R on the switch).

The reason that you do this is because the side have to be electrically isolated of course, otherwise when you apply power to one side, the other side will light up too.

I don't remember what the white and yellow and blue wires all do, or connect to, but if you post a pic of the schematic, I can give you a breakdown of what goes where.

Also, if you PM me your number or email, we can chat privately in more detail about it. Also, if you PM me your email, I can send you the schematics as well so you are not working blind.
 

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For pre-86 cars (I'm not sure about diesels), you need to make the modifications involving the solenoid to the door, which I did on my 85 380SL. It isn't difficult, and was very worthwhile. I haven't used the key to the door in years. I hid the brain box in the console, and running the antenna in the dash area worked "well enough" for me.

The big differences I've seen in these (they are almost all from China and use basically the same circuits) is in the quality of the remote construction. I found ones that have a chrome-plated metal (real chrome, real metal) surround.
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
For pre-86 cars (I'm not sure about diesels), you need to make the modifications involving the solenoid to the door, which I did on my 85 380SL. It isn't difficult, and was very worthwhile. I haven't used the key to the door in years. I hid the brain box in the console, and running the antenna in the dash area worked "well enough" for me.

The big differences I've seen in these (they are almost all from China and use basically the same circuits) is in the quality of the remote construction. I found ones that have a chrome-plated metal (real chrome, real metal) surround.
He has a 1987 560 SEL listed in his profile, so I figured it was a Gen II. I believe at the beginning of the thread I specify that these instructions are for Gen II cars. I do not have, nor have I ever had, a Gen I and there are differences to be sure as Greg has pointed out to me many times. So I limit my discussions to only Gen II cars.

Agreed about the quality of the remotes. I ground down my keys so that they fit into the FOB's and work like the factory ones. The FOB's last about 6 months to a year and then I order new ones.
 

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Hi, I have installed the system and it works great but I haven't figured out how to get my alarm armed and disarmed. Has anyone done that piece?
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Hi, I have installed the system and it works great but I haven't figured out how to get my alarm armed and disarmed. Has anyone done that piece?
The factory alarm? Yes, I JUST explained this in post #24 as well as the beginning of this thread.
 

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Hey guys my 1991 560sel doesn't let me unlock/lock the doors from the passenger side, but I can unlock all the doors from my trunk and from my driver side... Do I still need the solenoid?
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Hey guys my 1991 560sel doesn't let me unlock/lock the doors from the passenger side, but I can unlock all the doors from my trunk and from my driver side... Do I still need the solenoid?
What do you mean by solenoid? Does your alarn have a vacuum lock function?

What's probably wrong with your lock on the pass side, is the microswitch for the key lock. When you turn the key, inside the lock mechanism is a microswitch. When you turn it one way, it shorts to ground, and the other way it send +12VDC. That is the lock and unlock signals, respectively. Look on page 138 of the ETM and you will see it.

If your alarm has the vacuum option, connect that wire to Block X48F or H or J. Those three are in the input path for voltage from the doors to trigger the pump and alarm.
 

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Oh I was worried because my passenger side doesn't allow me to lock my car at all... I can only lock my car from the driver side and the trunk. Will I still be able to use the locking system?
 

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Hey I just bought this module! It comes in in about a week and a half. How come you decided to use the wire from the door instead of the wire from the alarm system in the passenger footwell? The Alarm system wire seems much simpler. Also, do you have any spare X-30 block connectors? I have a 1991 560 SEL
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
Actually, I believe I did end up using the wire you described. That was a last minute change and I must not have updated it here. Extend your delay to three seconds if you can.

Yes, I have spare 9 row X 30 block and probably a few connectors, but your car should have at least a 5 row in it already. Or did you want a 9 row for the additional slots?
 

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Nice mod. I added keyless to my car, I just wired into the pump unit in the trunk, on the trunk lock input. It also arms and disarms the factory alarm. I didn't cut any of the factory wires, it's just in parallel with the trunk lock. Thinking back this might be a problem if the trunk was locked, it might cause a short if you tried to use the keyless.

-J
 

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Clarification of short

In your last sentence of your post you indicated that if the trunk was locked it may cause a short - would the trunk not be locked when you activate the locks open button ? I guess I may be reading into this something more than you meant but I am just getting ready to install a remote lock kit in my 1984 300SD . Do you think I can use the same wire connection points locations you did on your later model car? Also any member input will be appreciated as I am a little "antsy" when it comes to wiring. Thanks for any help.
 

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I mean if you leave the trunk lock bolted, with the key turned. I need to get a meter and test but haven't had time.

-J
 

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I was thinking about that sending you a PM Mclare, but I thought this might just be faster. So, my unit came in today! The harness has so many wires I just want to clarify which ones I use... The white one, which connects to alarm unit in passenger well. The black wire, which is the negative/ground. The red wire which is the Positive power. The 2 Brown wires which connect to the hazard lights, and finally the pink wire which connects to the horn? I do NOT have to use the orange, yellow, orange/black, white/black, yellow/black, red/black (positive trigger), the red wire (negative trigger), green, and blue wires? Thanks so much guys
 

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Discussion Starter #38
It looks like you have a firm grasp on it. Go as you described. LMK if you have any problems, and how it turns out.

I know it shows a diode on one of the browns, make sure it is really there and working.
 

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Alright guys this will hopefully be the last time I post on this thread haha. So, I was able to get my module (KE669) to work through the X30 block, but it does not lock or unlock my car. I was under the impression that all I had to do was take the white wire and splice into either the wire that locks the trunk (Pin 4), or the wire that locks the front door (Pin 5) or the passenger door (Pin 6). However, each of those pins have two separate wires. I've tried splicing the white wire (module) into just one of the wires, but it didn't work... What am I doing wrong? Also, my jumper orientation is attached below... I believe that is how it should placed so that the pump has enough time to be activated (3.5 s)
 

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