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1995 E320 Sedan
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Discussion Starter #141
In my experience, week mid bass in the W1 24 platform from the doors almost always has to do with phase. This is exacerbated by the fact that the midbasses fire right into the seats. My suggestion, before throwing more dollars at the set up, would be to increase the delay to one of the mid basses from 0 to 5 ms in 0.1 ms increments to see what difference there is first.
I think there could be a time alignment setting in my head unit, but unfortunately if I mess with the front channel head unit it will mess with the dash speakers also. The issue is my entire system over powers that little amp. I spent $90 on the amp and crossovers and $70 on the Rockford Fosgate speakers. I want to return them and get something better I just can’t find anything that works in the doors, i can’t believe only like 2 other people have documented the upgrade of the door speakers. I have been struggling so hard to find a small amp and two door woofers.


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Discussion Starter #142
And also when I saw the magnet of the front door speaker replacements, my expectations dropped. I was shocked to see the magnet was smaller than factory and when I heard them by themselves was slightly surprised that 22w rms could make them move but when I added a amp and pushed them they just didn’t seem to get much bass just louder. They hold my system back. They technically are more powerful but aren’t made to play only bass, they were components. I need speakers that are meant to play bass notes, the power rating would mean much more, I want anything greater than 60w rms. I also want a very small amp if possible.


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Discussion Starter #143
So I have found an amp on amazon called the toro tech MRx2 it pushes out an insane 150w at 4 ohms per channel, there are two channels. It has a built in lpf which is perfect for my application. And it is ridiculously small 5.75 in by 1.69 in by 3.07 in. I found a yt video of the mono block version getting dynod and it met its ratings. I think it is worth it for $80 now I just need speakers that can fit in my door that can handle it. I can obviously get speakers that are weaker than it but don’t want to go below 80w rms. If someone has put powerful woofers in their doors please let me know!


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I am guessing the disappointment with the speakers has more to do with the location and setup than with the speakers themselves, so probably no speaker is going to satisfy from there without the proper crossovers and amplifier. And I know what you are saying, because they aren't blowing my doors off, either. That said, I am fine with what they are doing for me. There is plenty of bass coming from the trunk, so I am just using them as a bit of extra fill.
 

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Discussion Starter #145
I am guessing the disappointment with the speakers has more to do with the location and setup than with the speakers themselves, so probably no speaker is going to satisfy from there without the proper crossovers and amplifier. And I know what you are saying, because they aren't blowing my doors off, either. That said, I am fine with what they are doing for me. There is plenty of bass coming from the trunk, so I am just using them as a bit of extra fill.
I found an amp that will work and has a variable lpf. All I need are the speakers. My system over powers these the dual 12 inch moves a lot of air and it’s ported and the dash speakers are amplified.


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Discussion Starter #146
I was wondering how one can go about sealing of the door factory sub boxes? I have these very powerful shallow mount subs and they are going in the doors. To play more powerful the company told me I need to seal them of in an enclosure. I tested them hooked up to my factory head unit amp and they hit pretty hard!


They look like they have a smaller magnet but don’t be fooled they push 100w rms each and the fosgates only pushed 40w these are dedicated sub woofers unlike the component fosgates which were built for another purpose. I will cross these over at 200hz lpf.

I filed this box down to get them to fit. Also I was wondering what is a way I can deal of the vents in the rear of this factory sub box. I have a fiber glass kit for another project but am fine using it for this if I have to. Is there anything else I can use?

They are the earthquake sound SWS 6.5x shallow mount sub system pair(4 ohms)
I will be powering them with an 2 channel amp that pushes 150w rms per channel at 4 ohms. Will obviously turn it down to prevent over powering.


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Discussion Starter #147
Would rtv, caulking, or fiber glass work better for filling in these vents in the door sub boxes ?



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Discussion Starter #148
So I have been experimenting and am hating this. I got 100w rms speakers in there, they can’t play what they are rated at. They sound too boomy when the rear was sealed off. Then I sealed the front air gaps off and they became crisp and accurate but weak.i think my best bet is getting infinite baffle speakers in the doors.


Does anyone know of some 6.5” woofers that are infinite baffle/free air that would fit in the door? I would take the back cover of the pod of like this:

They need to be more than 100w rms each at 4 ohms as the amp powering them puts out 150w rms per channel. It has been such a pain doing this I just want to find something that works and sounds good. The reason I’m doing this is because my dash speakers play 200hz and up, my subwoofer plays 80hz and below, these fill in the gap and play 60hz to 20hz. So without them I’m missing those frequencies!


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1990 Benz 300E 2.6 (mine) ; 1994 E320 Wagon (wife's) ; 1993 300CE Cabrio, needs some TLC
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a 150W amp only outputs 150 watts when its fed a maximum level signal and the amps gain is on max. turn the input (or the amp gain) down, it will output less power.
 

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Discussion Starter #150
a 150W amp only outputs 150 watts when its fed a maximum level signal and the amps gain is on max. turn the input (or the amp gain) down, it will output less power.
Even when I turn it down it’s still bad it is tuned with a distortion detector and id say it’s playing about 130w rms. I just need free air/ infinite baffle speakers that fit in doors about 6.5” ones that take about 100-200w rms per channel. These speakers are the issue they don’t belong in doors.


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free air/infinite baffle only works if the speakers are actually IN an infinite baffle enclosure. you stuff them in a small plastic box, and they will continue to sound small, plastic, and boxy.

complex multiple-speaker systems need to be equalized. if your dash speakers are -3dB at 200Hz, then you need a crossover with the same slope that is also around -3dB at 200Hz for the mid-woofers (-3db added to -3dB == 0dB). they also need to be phase coherent, or there's all kinda cancelations and stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #152
free air/infinite baffle only works if the speakers are actually IN an infinite baffle enclosure. you stuff them in a small plastic box, and they will continue to sound small, plastic, and boxy.

complex multiple-speaker systems need to be equalized. if your dash speakers are -3dB at 200Hz, then you need a crossover with the same slope that is also around -3dB at 200Hz for the mid-woofers (-3db added to -3dB == 0dB). they also need to be phase coherent, or there's all kinda cancelations and stuff.
All my amps are at a 12db octave slope. I would separate the plastic enclosure and use the entire door as an enclosure which has lots of air leaks therefore making it an infinite baffle, like so:

I just want any forum member to give me advice to what speaker to put in the front doors for bass, factory was ok but distorted at very low volumes, Rockford Fosgatea are good for mid range not bass, and these new woofers belong in a bigger sealed enclosure, so free air will have a much better time in the doors.


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Sure is small gauge wire you’re using for high power component speakers. Personally I’d go with 12 or 14 gauge throughout.
 

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Discussion Starter #154
Sure is small gauge wire you’re using for high power component speakers. Personally I’d go with 12 or 14 gauge throughout.
I use 16 gauge for my 500w rms subwoofers ,the dash speakers play loud enough with 16 gauge and the door speakers are the only issue.


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Too small wiring on subs for sure. 12 gauge from amp and subwoofer enclosure internal wiring. Not trying to break your balls, but sealed enclosures work best for trunk cars. Band pass and ported in SUV and hatchbacks.

In regards to the door speakers, they will burn the voice coils if you seal them from the heat generated. A small port added firing back into cab may get the desired sound you’re after.
 

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Discussion Starter #156

So your saying drill a hole on the front part of the speaker?


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Honestly it’s such a small enclosure for that speaker with you saying it’s 100rms. Maybe remove the stuff you applied to vents to go back to using door as part of the enclosure. After that, add a port and tune/trim port length until you get desired result. Think you can still find them at a local car stereo dealer or fab your own.
 

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Discussion Starter #158
Honestly it’s such a small enclosure for that speaker with you saying it’s 100rms. Maybe remove the stuff you applied to vents to go back to using door as part of the enclosure. After that, add a port and tune/trim port length until you get desired result. Think you can still find them at a local car stereo dealer or fab your own.
I am honestly surprised that this cars been out for 25 years and a can’t find a thread putting woofers in the doors. Sounds like there Lots of custom work. Can’t I just put free air woofers and separate the back part from the speaker box?


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Free air subwoofers, haven’t heard of those in many, many years.

Definitely a custom pod needed for door to take all the guess work out. Most wont hack up their Mercedes is why the info/documentation is non existent.
 

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Discussion Starter #160
Free air subwoofers, haven’t heard of those in many, many years.

Definitely a custom pod needed for door to take all the guess work out. Most wont hack up their Mercedes is why the info/documentation is non existent.
All I’ve seen are Jenherts and heard of people putting infinity and mb quart in the doors. One guy also put image dynamics in there. I understand that. I have done lots of modification to mine:



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