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Thanks! I found some photos of RF wires on Google and it looks like maybe the striped was +, which would mean I got them backwards. But, the tweeter wires are the other way, so maybe not...haha! Yeah, I'll just change them and see. I hate to cut the wires and redo, but want to get it right before I put everything back togrther.

I already have a 5 channel amplifier for the dash, rear shelf, and subs. I don't want to add another one. It will be great, even as is. The other speakers are getting at least 3 times the power of the door speakers, so that may actually be the whole issue.
 

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1995 E320 Sedan
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Discussion Starter #102
Thanks! I found some photos of RF wires on Google and it looks like maybe the striped was +, which would mean I got them backwards. But, the tweeter wires are the other way, so maybe not...haha! Yeah, I'll just change them and see. I hate to cut the wires and redo, but want to get it right before I put everything back togrther.

I already have a 5 channel amplifier for the dash, rear shelf, and subs. I don't want to add another one. It will be great, even as is. The other speakers are getting at least 3 times the power of the door speakers, so that may actually be the whole issue.
Oops just forgot I tapped into my door speakers from the factory amp sorry for the misunderstanding good you figured it out. My subwoofer pushes 500w rms. And my car speakers are getting 50w rms and they could handle up to 80w rms. I am impressed with the door speakers. Thanks again for the assistance!


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This is what I was talking about. This RF wire bundle looks to have the larger connector on the striped wire.

Also, not sure I shared it before, but here is my passenger floorboard covered in sound deadener

And, finally, my new HU. Went with the retro Blaupunkt Bremen.
 

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1995 E320 Sedan
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Discussion Starter #105
I've got 75W RMS to the front and rear speakers and 350 to the single 10" sub. For some reason I thought you had switched to head unit power.
My head unit power my door speakers, I got a 4 channel amp for dash speakers
Mon channel amp for sub
And head unit power door speakers.


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I switched wires around on one side today and it made that side seem even less powerful, so I guess I had them right before. I also disconnected the dash speakers for a test and the doors were putting out more than I originally thought. The dash and rear deck speakers are still overpowering the doors, but that's what I wanted. They seem to be providing the extra fill in the front soundstage that I was looking for. I could turn down the gain on the other speakers, but I think it is good as is.

Also got my subwoofer issue worked out. The single output from the Blaupunkt needed to go to just the right channel of the amplifier's subwoofer input. It now works and sounds amazeballs. Still fine tuning, but I think everything is really close.

Loving the Blaupunkt Bremen SQR 46 DAB so far. Looks appropriate for the car and sounds great, and a lot easier to setup and use than the Pioneer DEH80-PRS, which is a spectacular piece of equipment, but very complicated.
 

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Discussion Starter #109
I switched wires around on one side today and it made that side seem even less powerful, so I guess I had them right before. I also disconnected the dash speakers for a test and the doors were putting out more than I originally thought. The dash and rear deck speakers are still overpowering the doors, but that's what I wanted. They seem to be providing the extra fill in the front soundstage that I was looking for. I could turn down the gain on the other speakers, but I think it is good as is.

Also got my subwoofer issue worked out. The single output from the Blaupunkt needed to go to just the right channel of the amplifier's subwoofer input. It now works and sounds amazeballs. Still fine tuning, but I think everything is really close.

Loving the Blaupunkt Bremen SQR 46 DAB so far. Looks appropriate for the car and sounds great, and a lot easier to setup and use than the Pioneer DEH80-PRS, which is a spectacular piece of equipment, but very complicated.
I checked you stereo out, it has 18w rms channel, this might be your issue, it is significantly less than my 25w rms. While the difference is small it is probably the reason you are not so impressed by the Rockford fosgates which are meant for 40w rms. A 2 channel mini amp could really push them hard. Good luck and I am glad you got your setup working. Mine has blown me away, insulation tightened up bass, still trying to figure out trunk vibration. Bought 10 more square feet of insulation.
Also are those climate control lights led they look sick! Are they custom or is there a place to get them, also where can I get that volt meter in your ashtray?


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Hmmm, for some reason I thought the Bremen was 25W RMS per channel, but maybe I got some numbers mixed up somewhere along my research trip...lol! Either way, it's great the way it is and I am really not interested in installing another amp.

I still have some vibrations/rattles too, but mostly just outside. I don't hear them while driving.

The climate control lights are regular incandescent bulbs.

I will put a link below for the volt meter USB plug. It does require modifications to the ashtray, as it is not just a plug in. I had to dremel out the hole a bit, but you don't want to do too much. There isn't room to screw the plastic nut on the back, so I made the opening big enough so it would go in, but very tight, so it sort of snapped in and didn't need the nut. I did not install the cover for it. They make some that just plug into the socket, but I wanted one that sat down as flush as possible. With the plug in ones you have to make sure they aren't too tall or the ashtray won't open and close unless you remove them. I had a plug in one before and it was okay, but it would always pop out when I would try to remove my USB cords. BTW, the one I have has been very, very accurate, which surprised me. It was always exactly the same reading as the one built into my old head unit and also spot on with my testing unit that attaches to the battery.

Amazon.com: MICTUNING Dual USB Charger Socket 2.1A & 2.1A Power Outlet with Digital Voltmeter Red LED Light 12-24V for Car Boat Marine Mobile
 

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Discussion Starter #111
Hmmm, for some reason I thought the Bremen was 25W RMS per channel, but maybe I got some numbers mixed up somewhere along my research trip...lol! Either way, it's great the way it is and I am really not interested in installing another amp.

I still have some vibrations/rattles too, but mostly just outside. I don't hear them while driving.

The climate control lights are regular incandescent bulbs.

I will put a link below for the volt meter USB plug. It does require modifications to the ashtray, as it is not just a plug in. I had to dremel out the hole a bit, but you don't want to do too much. There isn't room to screw the plastic nut on the back, so I made the opening big enough so it would go in, but very tight, so it sort of snapped in and didn't need the nut. I did not install the cover for it. They make some that just plug into the socket, but I wanted one that sat down as flush as possible. With the plug in ones you have to make sure they aren't too tall or the ashtray won't open and close unless you remove them. I had a plug in one before and it was okay, but it would always pop out when I would try to remove my USB cords. BTW, the one I have has been very, very accurate, which surprised me. It was always exactly the same reading as the one built into my old head unit and also spot on with my testing unit that attaches to the battery.

Amazon.com: MICTUNING Dual USB Charger Socket 2.1A & 2.1A Power Outlet with Digital Voltmeter Red LED Light 12-24V for Car Boat Marine Mobile
Mine look nothing like your climate control vents they are yellow but not that bright, maybe you replaced those switches or bulbs? Thanks for listing the outlet, the factory outlet is a little annoying cause it is metric plugs enable around in it. My subs are porter and 500w rms is enough to rattle those plastic vents in the trunk. I think even 100w rms would drive them crazy, I really want to elimate that outside rattle. Hopefully I can use 10sq ft of insulation to get the trunk, rear doors, and possibly the driver and passenger floor boards if I have left overs.


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I did replace the bulbs awhile back. I think they were the same as from the factory, but maybe just being new made a difference? Could also be my camera or lighting. I do have some LEDs, but not there or in switches.

Yes, the sizing of the socket is part of why the plug in meter I had wouldn't stay in, even with the adapter sleeve for it.

I am wondering if that vent flap is what I hear on my car. I hope you get it figured out to your satisfaction.
 

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1990 Benz 300E 2.6 (mine) ; 1994 E320 Wagon (wife's) ; 1993 300CE Cabrio, needs some TLC
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that vent in the trunk is ventilation for the whole car, so fresh air flows in the front, through the HVAC system, and exits the trunk.
 

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Discussion Starter #114
I did replace the bulbs awhile back. I think they were the same as from the factory, but maybe just being new made a difference? Could also be my camera or lighting. I do have some LEDs, but not there or in switches.

Yes, the sizing of the socket is part of why the plug in meter I had wouldn't stay in, even with the adapter sleeve for it.

I am wondering if that vent flap is what I hear on my car. I hope you get it figured out to your satisfaction.
Thank you I have noticed those door speakers are kind of annoyingly loud, they hurt my ears almost sounds like a tweeter is built in even though I didn’t hook them up when I punch the other speakers these ones almost over power them, I am going to retune my entire system, but I think if I add some sort of inline resistor these will have more punch and less treble. I want them to play lower frequencies. Maybe I can turn the volume down on the front speakers so that they aren’t too loud and balance them, I will have to experiment to get my desired sound. It probably is the vent flap sounds like the bumper or muffler but it isn’t. Also here is a pic of my dash it looks less bright in person

Ok I just realized the camera makes it look brighter because my picture looks very similar to yours. I do want to convert all of them to led lights, I want a constant color theme, probably orange or white.


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Discussion Starter #115
that vent in the trunk is ventilation for the whole car, so fresh air flows in the front, through the HVAC system, and exits the trunk.
Is there a way to stop it from rattling when there is a sub in the trunk or am I just stuck with that issue?


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since the trunk is isolated from the passenger compartment with a gas tank and the back seat, it must take a hella lotta thumpa-thumpa in the trunk to be audible in the passenger compartment, the bass is probably louder outside the car than in. only way I'd consider putting woofers in the trunk of a 124 sedan would be if the bass ports of the woofer cabinets were ducted through holes cut into the rear 'parcel shelf'. as these days I mostly listen to fairly mellow acoustic music, i'm past the need for big subwoofers and ear splitting volume levels.

 

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Discussion Starter #117
since the trunk is isolated from the passenger compartment with a gas tank and the back seat, it must take a hella lotta thumpa-thumpa in the trunk to be audible in the passenger compartment, the bass is probably louder outside the car than in. only way I'd consider putting woofers in the trunk of a 124 sedan would be if the bass ports of the woofer cabinets were ducted through holes cut into the rear 'parcel shelf'. as these days I mostly listen to fairly mellow acoustic music, i'm past the need for big subwoofers and ear splitting volume levels.

I have to turn it down sometimes in the interior it’s gets I. The cabin very easily. I have a little hole in the rear deck,probably lets most the bass through. I put a who lot of insulation behind the rear seat.


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The way bass frequencies travel, the fuel tank is not as big of a problem as it is made out to be. It is a factor and no barrier would he better, but it's not a huge issue. I am getting TONS of bass in the cabin with just a single 10" woofer. It is loud outside, too, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #119
The way bass frequencies travel, the fuel tank is not as big of a problem as it is made out to be. It is a factor and no barrier would he better, but it's not a huge issue. I am getting TONS of bass in the cabin with just a single 10" woofer. It is loud outside, too, though.
Yes I am too and agree, rattles are annoying and I want to eliminate them!


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You have less power going to your other speakers and more going to your door speakers than I do, so the balance between them will definitely be different. Maybe the gain on the amplifier for your other speakers can be bumped up a bit? Also, I don't know what you have for front speakers, but I have the Rainbows and they definitely sound much bigger than they actually are, at least with 75W going to them. I cut the bass out of the Rainbows at around 70 hz, but may go up a bit higher and see what happens.
 
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